Hi,
after I posted that the light with glued thread is not too hard to open I got a tip that chadvone had a tube laying around that fits,
he said its most likely a BLF A6 18350 tube so I ordered it,
P.S. BUT I received the S1 tube for the his mod.
So watch out that you dont get the wrong delivered the S1 tube is 37mm long and threads are 1mm longer as well
But there are some minor differences to make the tube fit to the Skilhunt perfectly.
The result is a very light but powerful headlamp.
I cut later the upper headband off and attached the band so that the whole silicone back sticks to my forehead.
I use an Efest protected 18350 900mAh battery its a very tight fit the diameter and lengh are the max what would fit.
With an Panasonic 18650B and magnet.
I also got the AR glas from my Jetbeam Jet-1 MK in it or maybe a microtextured lens from pflexpro user.
106g with 3 strap headband magnet removed,
97.55g headband just the horizontal band
and cut the silicone holder for the 3. band should remove weight even more.
After screwing the BLF tube on the skilhunt light I noticed that the A6 has a lot longer tubes to screw in,
so I had to move the orings in front of their normal position.
But unfortionally the BLF tube is 0,3mm thicker as the Skilhunt and their orings are larger.
I tried to get the skilhunt orings on the BLF tube, but it was not enough to make it fit,
they were squezzed out a bit.
So I decided to get the tube where the orings have to be thinner in diameter.
Used first a dremel to get the anodisation off
and then used very carefuly a metal saw to get it about 0.5-0.7mm less in diameter.
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Well done Lexel.
Did you short tube work on the A6?One I ordered didn’t work for the A6. Maybe there still selling wrong tube.
Don’t have my A6 anymore, maybe something changed.
Thatś a sweet mod.
I dont own an A6, there are different batches of A6 long tubes
I ordered this tube 3 weeks ago
http://www.banggood.com/BLF-A6-Astrolux-S1-Flashlight-18350-Body-Extensi...
the short tube also allows protected cells
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
The Skilhunt H03 was never on my radar but after reading this thread I guess HAD to have an 18350 celled headlamp.
Thank you for the 411.
“
Definitely a cool mod. But we are talking 30g (1.06oz.) difference in weight, but 1/3 the run time of an 18650 cell.
You made me order the H03 plus an A6 extension tube..
what can i say, youre genius!
thank you for sharing. gotta find my a6 tube. lol.
FL Newbie
My $3 Armytek Tiara C1 headband came today.
87g’s Nitecore 18350 , No Magnet. Tiara headband.
Fits really tight. I like it.
Where did you get the headband from an how does it fit? Just ordered the tube and took the head off the light. I think I’m going to swap emitters to a 219c 90+ cri 4000k too.
I’m leaving the magnet though, I love that feature.
https://www.armytek.com/products/accessories/spare-parts/ I think I ordered the C1
Light fits really snug, takes great effort to rotate it.
Messed up my first tube, for some reason I thought yu were supposed to sand down the ridge not the groove lol. luckily I ordered and extra and jut finished filing that one. Really easy mod if you file the part shown in the pictures above lol.
So is that band snug in a good way? Or so snug it would take 2 hands to adjust. I like to be able to adjust my headlamp one handed when wrenching on stuff.
I put a high drain 16340 (700mah) in it for now and that seems to work fine too (no rattle either hmm) :). Planning to pickup some 18350s soon though to shorten some other lights as well. In stead of removing the magnet I added a second earth magnet which made it way more useful for attaching to things while working. Heck just used it today to attach to a thin strip of metal (never would have been able to hold itself up on this metal before) while working under the dash in my SxS.
I guesss I can’t share photos so here is the magnet mod link
https://flic.kr/p/R5jQq6
Now it just needs a 219c or 319a and it will be quite the light to have!
Yes with a noctigon 16mm filed down to 14.5mm you can get a Nichia Diode in there
Not sure on thickness but the stock seems to have same thickness
The thing with the Nichia 219 is on turbo it looses a bit CRI while a CRI90 XML2 has slightly more output and stable CRI
The Nichia gets more throw which is imho not really what this headlight needs
The CRI Cree got only warm tints while the Nichia has also very nice neutral and 5700K colors
The neutral Cree have often CRI75 and also some CRI80 availiable
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I did this just yesterday. You just need to file down the edges of a 16mm noctigon to fit it through the hole.
I put in a 219C 4000K 90 cri emitter and really like it. It now has a little bit more throw and this is what I needed for biking.
A small spacer between the original optic and the new (smaller) led was needed, fortunately I had that in my spare parts box. Now the optic presses down on the mcpcb really good.
The 219C works good with the original optic, it still has a nice floody beam with just a little bit more intense center.
Yeah, i’m gonna Nichia my Skilhunts too.
or 4500K ..? (not in yet)
But which tint?
3000K or 3500K or 4000K?
…or 2700K
Just for fun i put the H03F optics (including the diffuser lid thingy) on the shorty and put the TIR optics and SS bezel on the H03F (which is a regular H03 now).
Must say though, the diffuser thingy is not very good build quality. And that’s a pity…
It rattles and looks vulnerable..
But it looks great though and it’s a good diffuser.
Now thinking about how to shorten the original 18650 battery tube.
Because the S1 18350 tube is not a perfect fit.
[EDIT] The S1 tube IS a perfect fit, but i had the A6 tube when i wrote this ! [/EDIT]
The threaded sections are slightly smaller in diameter, i have to be careful tightening the tail cap.
Plus i want the clip on the shorty too, which is impossible with the 18350 tube.
Wait, is there a difference between A6 and S1 tube?
Sigh…
Alright, should have checked this before..
So it turns out the Astrolux S1 short tube fits better than the BLF A6 short tube.
I ordered the A6 short tube for this Skilhunt mod, but i have a Astrolux S1 shorty too (but i use a S1 18650 tube).
Mystery solved…
Ya, which tubes fit what has been a circus ride trying to follow:)
I don’t know why I have been on a nichia kick lately, cree still has perfectly decent stuff, thing is I ordered a bunch of 19c and 319a’s . I don’t mind warmer tints although I really been liking 4000k I would certainly not mind a warmer tint for a headlamp where I’m often using it to work up close (warmer tints are much easier on my eyes, I guess i’m weird). I actually like warmer tints better, on high levels I always thought warmer tints held cri better but I thought it must have just been in my head so thanks for clarifying!
So you would recommend getting an XML2 instead then? If Mtn has them I might be placing an order with them soon.
Thats great news, if my nichias ever arrive from china I’ll probably try one in there too! What did you use for a spacer though? Probably not something I have around and I will need to order.
Awww man now you tell me. Now I just wasted $2 lol. Not having any 18350s yet, can you explain to me how the S1 tube fits better? My A6 tube I ordered seems to fit really well after grooving it for an oring (used a $1 file from china freight) I don’t understand the be careful cause it has short threads comment, is that because I don’t have an 18350 to throw in there?
Thanks!
Also no one commented on how sung that headlamp band is? Can you still adjust the headlamp one one hand or does it require 2? Is there a better option?
One hand is enough the long tube is quite easy to twist the short rotates with a decent grip on the head
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
The threaded ends of the S1 tube have the same diameter as the original Skilhunt 18650 tube.
The A6 tube is 1mm smaller diameter.
The A6 tube is also 2mm shorter than the S1 tube.
Protected 18350 would be a problem with the A6 tube. I don’t now, maybe Banggood sent you the S1 tube.
Okay, let’s post some pics then:
I had thought that I finally figured out what tubes fit what. So just last week I ordered 5 a6 tubes for the h03. Aaaah
I ordered the A6 tube and they fit protected cells, maybe they really sent me an S1 tube?
I also see your S1 tube looks like my A6
Can you give me the bore, outer diameter and lengh of your S1 tube?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Okay, let’s get the callipers.
Inner diameters are both 19 mm, outer diameters are both 24mm.
Diameter of threaded sections S1 is 22mm (same as Skilhunt), A6 is 21mm.
S1 tube is 37mm long, A6 tube is 35mm long.
Let’s hope they send you the wrong ones too..
So the threads on your A6 tube were lose due to being 1mm narrower? The A6 I ordered the threads feel tight, and it looks exactly like your S1 in the pic. I dunno if the S1 and A6 look the same anyways? For now both the A6 I ordered from bangood (if that is even what I have) is fitting perfect and threads are tight and smooth so I’m not sure what could be improved anyways, unless when I get my 18350s they don’t fit!
My 16340’s fit in it too after I did the spring / magnet mod, they are the same capacity as most 18350s anyways, and are high drain so they can push the LED just fine in turbo. Probably save some weight over the 18350. The 16340 (RCR123) battery is loose in the tube, but apparently under enough tension that it won’t rattle or misbehave anyways.
Jut to be clear, this is the tube I ordered, it looks like the one in your picture.
http://www.banggood.com/BLF-A6-Astrolux-S1-Flashlight-18350-Body-Extensi...
Also the headband is $3, but shipping is $9? Hmmmmm anything cheaper that will fit? That’s 1/2 the cost of the headlamp!
Ok to make it clear I ordered the A6 tube but in fact I received a S1 tube
It is 37mm long and still a tight fit for protected batteries.
Also the longer threads are needed for a good fit, no sanding down needed
First post edited
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Man, how did you get the head loose? Either mine has more glue or I have little girl strength. Don’t want to mar or deform the tube using tools, but I can’t get the damn thing off by hand..
Its not possible by hand, you need heat and tools
The tube is a lot more stable than you need to open it
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
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