Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

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kramer5150
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Yeah me too… mandatory lock-out. So far this is the only thing wrong with it.

Jerommel
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Sigh..
Got mine in today, only tried with Eneloop, same lock out problem…
Switch seems to be good though, but once turned off it won’t come back on unless i unscrew and tighten the tailcap first…
Tired this sucks..

(edit)
Hmm.. sometimes it does turn on, once every 20 clicks on average..
Maybe it is the switch afteral…

Very vague problem..

Jerommel
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Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I think BLF members have bought quite a few of these lights. It would be interesting to find out what percentage are having problems.

Could someone who knows how, set up a poll simply asking (a) Problems or (b) No problems ?

People would have to be able to vote multiple times of course, one vote for each light they’ve purchased. I’d set it up myself, but I don’t know how.

Good idea, that is, if everyone who bought one this time will vote.
I’ll start a poll.

Pete7874
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So what do guys do with all these malfunctioning ut01 lights? Do you reach out to GearBest and demand a refund?

Muto
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Try this;
Smack the flashlight (tail down) fairly hard onto a solid surface like you’re smacking a pack of Cigarettes and see if it doesn’t come right back on with a click after doing this.
The freakin driver assembly is free to move around, bad design.
I tried switching the tailcap and batt tube from my good one, no difference, problem is in the head.
Later,

Muto

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
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“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

Muto
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Pete7874 wrote:
So what do guys do with all these malfunctioning ut01 lights? Do you reach out to GearBest and demand a refund?

I’m not going through the hassle of video, 14 PM’s and emails of bad translation and form letters for a $10 flashlight that works fine once you know what it needs to come on. It works fine once it’s on.

The older version I have does not have this problem, Progress they say?

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

Jerommel
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Poll here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57233

Please vote to get an idea how many % is bad.

Jerommel
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Pete7874 wrote:
So what do guys do with all these malfunctioning ut01 lights? Do you reach out to GearBest and demand a refund?

I may well open a ticket, yes.
See what solution they can offer.
I mean, a bargain is nice, but not when the product is faulty (obviously).
Pete7874
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Just got mine today. So far, it appears to have no issue on either NiMH or Li-Ion cell, knock on wood.

However, visually, I don’t think this thing delivers 800 lm. Based on the results of the ceilingbounce app in my make-shift integrating sphere, lumen output is about the same as my JetBeam Jet-1 MK, which claims 480 lm on high.

kramer5150
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Pete7874 wrote:
Just got mine today. So far, it appears to have no issue on either NiMH or Li-Ion cell, knock on wood.

However, visually, I don’t think this thing delivers 800 lm. Based on the results of the ceilingbounce app in my make-shift integrating sphere, lumen output is about the same as my JetBeam Jet-1 MK, which claims 480 lm on high.

Have you tried programming in the brightest setting? Some members suspect it comes programmed at a lower output level for its “turbo”.

Pete7874
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kramer5150 wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
Just got mine today. So far, it appears to have no issue on either NiMH or Li-Ion cell, knock on wood.

However, visually, I don’t think this thing delivers 800 lm. Based on the results of the ceilingbounce app in my make-shift integrating sphere, lumen output is about the same as my JetBeam Jet-1 MK, which claims 480 lm on high.

Have you tried programming in the brightest setting? Some members suspect it comes programmed at a lower output level for its “turbo”.


Thanks. Programming to the brightest turbo setting helped. Looks like I’m getting upwards of 600 lumen now. I’m guessing the 800 lumen factory rating is for the CW emitter. Mine is NW, so it’s going to be lower. Plus, the cell I’m using (Sanyo UR14500P) isn’t exactly a high drain cell either, so that may also be limiting my output.
kramer5150
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Pete7874 wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
Just got mine today. So far, it appears to have no issue on either NiMH or Li-Ion cell, knock on wood.

However, visually, I don’t think this thing delivers 800 lm. Based on the results of the ceilingbounce app in my make-shift integrating sphere, lumen output is about the same as my JetBeam Jet-1 MK, which claims 480 lm on high.

Have you tried programming in the brightest setting? Some members suspect it comes programmed at a lower output level for its “turbo”.


Thanks. Programming to the brightest turbo setting helped. Looks like I’m getting upwards of 600 lumen now. I’m guessing the 800 lumen factory rating is for the CW emitter. Mine is NW, so it’s going to be lower. Plus, the cell I’m using (Sanyo UR14500P) isn’t exactly a high drain cell either, so that may also be limiting my output.

I don’t believe this light is spec’d for OTF-ANSI Lumens. IIRC the 800L is spec sheet emitter lumens.

Glad you got it re-programmed, and yours works fine with either cell chemistry.

It most certainly doesn’t do 800 OTF. I am not sure what the current draw is, but theres a good chance without an IMR cell you could be pushing the limits of the 14500.

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Just a note: the problems with this light are not because of loose driver, bad contacts, or a bad switch. The switch however, is what manifests the problem. The problem is how firmware decodes the signal from the switch. When the light is off, something in the firmware tightens up the parameters that determine whether the button was pressed or not. Reason for this is unknown but I’ve wondered if it more “picky” with the handling of the signal from the switch to limit accidental turn ons. The firmware may not be broken through as it verywell may have worked with the switch used in testing(which may have not been actual physical switch at all). I say this because the light works fine with some switches and does not turn on at all with others. All my testing was done with the driver outside of the light so all other theories of mechanical problem from the host can be dismissed. Of course there is the normal one or two lights out there where this could be the problem.

I’ve read about all reported issues and all of them can be explained by my theory. Someone claimed my theory is in correct because their light started working when they straightened a twisted driver. However aligning the switch and pressing the button from a better direct angle changes the signal profile of the button press. It gives a better clean click so the driver reads the presses correctly.

Another claimed the problem is with the type of battery or because of different charge levels. These observations are probably correct but it doesn’t disprove my claims. Different voltages will also mess with the way the firmware views the signal from the switch. Either the voltage from the switch or the internal reference voltages of the MCU can be affected by different input voltages. This was confirmed by using a power supply to test the driver. Different voltages did affect the chance of the light turning on. Though, there wasn’t a general rule that deterermined what voltages did what. Each switch was different.

So, changing the switch may help defective drivers but not because the origional switch was “bad” it was instead not compatible with the firmware.

Good firmware design should take these factors into consideration. In fact, the designers of this light would have had to concider these things to some extent or the light wouldn’t work at all. The designers, however, must not have been thorough enough to acount for hardware variations.

This is my theory atleast. I admit, I am not fully qualified to make these statements. So maybe someone with a scope and a better understanding of firmware and switch press debouncing will test this theory further.

kramer5150
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Sounds logical to me!!

Pete7874
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kramer5150 wrote:
I am not sure what the current draw is, but theres a good chance without an IMR cell you could be pushing the limits of the 14500.

I’m getting about 1.3-1.4A current draw on the highest Turbo mode.
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I also wanted to mention, UT01 works great as a walking light, attached to the brim of a hat. On ‘High3’ setting, using a high capacity NiMH cell, it’s bright enough, and gives more than 80 minutes of runtime.

kramer5150
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Pete7874 wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
I am not sure what the current draw is, but theres a good chance without an IMR cell you could be pushing the limits of the 14500.
I’m getting about 1.3-1.4A current draw on the highest Turbo mode.

Oh wow thats way less than I was expecting!! cool

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Took the chance on the UT01 for $10. So far mine is OK from what I can tell.
Used the 14500 at first and was hesitant to change to NiMh for fear to “confuse” this thing or mess up what was so far a good working light. I did the swap and all seems OK here too.
Pretty impressive on AA NiMh Tenergy green flat top made for pack builds. No Eneloops in AA.
For 14500 I have Windy cells from MtnE that are supposedly good higher drain and I have used them in SC Quads at 7A+. 14500 is brighter but not really too impressed with the difference to my eyes indoors. I have changed the outputs in menu.
I have another on the way and would be interesting to see the side by side difference in the cell chemistry.
My tail spring board came unglued on the second battery change. Easy enough to fix and I wanted to figure out a magnet for it anyway and possibly spring bypass but doubt its really needed.

Saw some talk about backwards tube but I looked closely, measured some things but my tube is identical on both ends. Pics are gone on Giorgoskok review so I have dug further for other pics to compare mine.

Took the head off to see whats in there. Got blue-goo boogers in the reflector and lens but wasn’t hard to open. Logo on bezel still lines up with SW after reassembly. Like how the reflector tightens down on the MCPCB. Will take it apart further later on to get the reflector cleaner and change the thermal compound, check shelf machining etc.

I got the NW 5000K but seems pretty Yellow for 5000K to me. At least its not Green. But I like it.
So far in the short term, I like the light and glad I bought it.

I did get some extra literature in my box. Thought this was funny.

djozz
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Huh? A Lumintop warranty card in a Utorch box?
Food for speculation? (like why Lumintop after all these years finally manages to come out with a AA light with a driver done well, that even looks like the UT01: the EDC05)

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Btw, my $9.99 neutral UT01 that on the box states to be 3D tint (5000K), is not 5000K, it is 4000K. For 70CRI Cree leds, 4000K is the danger zone, tints in the 5 region can be really ugly, but in this light I struck a good one: good yellow/red appearance with no green.

I thusfar did not have any of the UI problems reported in this thread (I use no 14500’s because it is already so good on Eneloops!), and am still amazed that such a good and complete light can be had for so little money!

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djozz wrote:
Huh? A Lumintop warranty card in a Utorch box? Food for speculation? (like why Lumintop after all these years finally manages to come out with a AA light with a driver done well, that even looks like the UT01: the EDC05)

Yes Sir… My thoughts exactly. Someone made an Oooopsie. “Those cards should have gone on that other packing table.”

I don’t mind the tint at all. OP reflector takes away the star look of the cut sides of the XP-L. Didn’t notice the box, yes it says 3D 5000K on the side.
Certainly one of my better Budget lights of 2017.

Took the head apart completely. Shelf is pretty good and flat. I still got the light machine marks off and chamfered the wire holes. Soft White thermal compound, not the hardening plaster stuff, was a pleasant suprise. My driver was slightly off center to the SW button hole. Hope the SW still works when aligned straight. Big Smile

While it’s apart, is there any worth while resistor mods for the stock driver? I saw an R050 but I am not well versed in the workings of electronic parts. But that resistor is accessible on the top layer. Looks about 0805 size, by the LED Neg wire.

Kinda didn’t like the feel of my fat thumb in the SW bezel. Enlarged the taper on the inner edge at the silicone button. Fat thumb should feel better now and operate SW easier.

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Looking into Lumintop’s EDC05 a bit more:

Lumintop EDC05 wrote:
Operation: -When off, one click to access Moonlight, another click to circle through moonlight-low-medium-high. Long Press for off. -When off, long press to access the memory output last use (except Moonlight), one click for circle. -When off, double click to access Strobe, one click for circle: Strobe-SOS-Beacon, Long press for off. -When on, double click to switch between general modes and flash modes.

That is the Manker UI !

And here’s the inside of the tail of the EDC05 (picture taken from the BG site):

Looking familiar?

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djozz wrote:

Looking familiar?

Yeah… I saw that same spring board roll across my floor, on my second battery swap in the UT01.

The EDC05 will come in a Pretty box to satisfy the minds of those that paid 5X more and believe their light is better than the $10 UTorch.

kramer5150
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djozz wrote:
Huh? A Lumintop warranty card in a Utorch box? Food for speculation? (like why Lumintop after all these years finally manages to come out with a AA light with a driver done well, that even looks like the UT01: the EDC05)

One of two scenarios… the origins of the E11, UT-01, EDC05 come from an open source OEM manufacturer, who owns the basic design and merely takes orders from the 3 brands, making small cosmetic tweeks to them. Or, Manker (AFIAK the first manufacturer) chose to partner up with an OEM that has taken their design and tweeked it for the other two. For which Manker would have to go after them legally if they wanted to retain their design.

The OEM made a mistake putting the wrong manual in the wrong box.

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Well, my original NW UT01 has been working fine with AA NiMh, and the second light NW I ordered came and, happily, works perfectly with MiMH and unprotected 14500s! So, I’m feeling good. I’d order the CW version, except I don’t want to push my luck.

A few things about the second light: It had a lumintop warantee card, my first did not.

The emitter is a bit more greenish on the second NW than the first. I’ll see if it improves at all with a little more use. If not, I’ll probably swap the emitter with my first light. That, or find a suitable replacement.

Oh, also, the leads poking through the bottom of the PCB at the bottom of the head on the second light were trimmed better/closer than those on the first light.

Dba
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Me too, light worked perfectly with both NiMh and 14500 for a few minutes and then presto……….won’t turn back on unless you loosen and tighten the tail cap as to break the circuit as Jerommel said or by banging the tailcap as suggested by Muto. Bloody nuisance

Too bad, I like everything else about the light

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Second UT01 4000K NW arrived today.
No workie on my flat top NiMh in this one. Had to trim down the 5 pins poking up out of the driver. All is well now with it. no other issues.
I did get another Lumintop Warranty card.
Perhaps all the bad UT01 lights should get sent back to lumintop? Seems like they want them.

Got one more on the way.

arow55
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Mankert01 can be programmed like ut01 to set brightness in each mode.

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Will the light auto step down to mid mode after a few minutes in high mode?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

arow55
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It can be set to run turbo with no stepdown.

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