Review: itp A3 eos upgraded

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agenthex
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I get about 55 min run time from the 703 on eneloops, which is actually a

 

That's interesting. That's a draw of only like 0.7A?? A3 on high is supposedly about 0.8A. Xp-e's are also more efficient especially in something of that size because of their smaller primary lens and therefore larger reflector coverage.

 

Is your 703 nicely tinted? Might have to get one.

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FlashPilot
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I just measured 2.08A on a slightly discharged AAA eneloop (tones 2nd gen) after 5 sec turn-on. I'm sure it will decline as the battery burns down. The tint is probably in the upper 6k range. Its whiter and a bit bluer than the cold white tint of the A3. The 703 tint turns a dingy green color when the battery is about 75% used up but has a nice tint otherwise. The A3 is definitely a better indoor whitewall hunters floodier beam, and mine gets used a lot indoors. The 703 has a center hotspot that increases with distance. There is a prevalent ring around the hotspot that shows up on a whitewall but not noticeable outdoors. The ceiling bounce test is almost indiscernible between the two. I have a dark hardwood floor with wooden furniture so not as much light will reflect as apposed to the usual home in the same test. When the beam of the 703 is transposed over the A3 beam, the A3 beam gets completely blotted out by the 703, accept for about 20% of the larger A3 corona that remains untouched.

 

703 = best outdoors and for throw.

A3 = best indoors or where multimode output is required with flood beam

Also available here in black 

Hope that helps.

agenthex
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Thanks.

 

So runtime is more akin to the black cats (AAA will be much less than 750mah if run at 2A, so maybe it dims a lot), which isn't ideal with a 1 mode light. It'd be nice if they could just add modes.

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Its far brighter than the A3 till 75% of the battery is consumed. I read somewhere that the 703 is brighter and built far better than the blackcat so I didn't buy one. For my purposes for a keychain light, the multimode on the A3 has proven to be far more of a hassle than a benefit. The darn thing has to be twisted three times to get to high mode. If done to quickly, it stays in the same mode no matter how many times I twist it. That's a complete hassle when outdoors and trying to illuminate anything past 10 feet away, especially when I need the light RIGHT NOW and trying to operate it with one hand. IMO, the ideal AAA light would have programmable modes with memory.... candle, low, med, high, turbo. I built a Hugsby P31 with a custom driver I use for my EDC with those modes and wish I had one like it for my keychain. IMO, the 703 is the next best thing. Just as all pilots are trained, start the light with your finger/hand over the lens and gradually uncover it just enough to adequately illuminate the subject, thus saving your night vision. Probably common sense for most people but still part of mandatory instruction.

On a night flight last week, I dimmed the cockpit illumination and kept the P31 on in candle mode and placed it in my lap for the duration of the flight. Every few minutes, Id pick it up for a quick panel scan. The difference in my night vision sensitivity was astounding after 30 minutes, and I was able to easily land without the landing lights for the first time at my home field.

fran82
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Tank TK 703 = contact problems, bad switch, protected 10440 does not fit, bad keychain attachment, only 1 mode (10440 suffers on that high amp draw), and more cons

I prefer to pay 16 euro for the itp than 10 euro for the tank. For only 6 euro more you get itp quality, 3 modes, less weight, less size, etc....

 

Remember "lo barato sale caro"

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

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True, only unprotected 10440's fit, but the drop-off in light output by the end of a discharge cycle (around 3.5V) is pronounced with a rapidly dimming led signaling its user to switch out a battery. I've ran my 703 through several sustained on-time cycles using 10440's and have never had any problems with the switch or otherwise. Of course I take apart all of my lights and clean, lube and adjust switch contact points before pumping large amounts of current through them. If the tail is getting hot, there is an obvious problem with the switch contacts where they meet the tailcap. Only a few 703 switch failures were reported otherwise. Not bad considering these things are sold by the thousands.

When my hand is used for cooling the light while using 10440's:

703 = hot but tolerable and can leave on through the entire discharge cycle. More surface area with knurling and larger, longer, heavier body.

A3 = burn the living crap out of my hand within 1.5 minutes. If you have really big balls Fran, you might be able to hold it for 2 minutes if your light doesn't go up in smoke first. 

Some EOS have threading issues at the moment where the threads seat the driver to the body tube, thus creating intermittent contact issues, unintended mode switching and difficulty in turning as the light heats up. Mine did that and I sent it back. Its also been a know issue with ITP, which they still have not resolved to this date.

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ITP does make a fine light and the EOS is great for a multimode long lasting flood beam. I have four ITP lights and two of their much larger Olight cousins (AAA through 18650). Although well finished, I don't consider any of them worth the extremely discounted prices I paid for them. Never will any of them accompany me into wilderness areas 50+ miles from civilization where the only engine driven machines allowed are aircraft. These lights are elegant but not robust enough to take any real punishment. Of the 6 lights I mentioned, 2 have been returned - one of them burning up its own driver... also a known issue for that particular model and continues to be manufactured in the same sealed system that does little to evacuate heat. Even my m20 warrior had contact mode switching problems which I resolved by polishing the contact surfaces with a dremel and relubing... another known unaddressed issue. Thanks again Olight!

So to date, these lights have proven to be far less reliable than any cheapie lights I have ever purchased or read about (and I have many of them). IMHO - Reliability not withstanding and while functioning properly, they simply aren't tough enough lights for the real outdoors enthusiast nor do they warrant the prices they command.

how2
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I tinnk interms of AAA brightness then RMSEN RV-107 would beat the other 2 lights.

 

agenthex
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The problem with that is it looks the size of a AA light.

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how2 wrote:

I tinnk interms of AAA brightness then RMSEN RV-107 would beat the other 2 lights.

 

At 1.8A at the tailcap, it probably will not be as bright as the tk-703.
Don
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FlashPilot wrote:

how2 wrote:

I tinnk interms of AAA brightness then RMSEN RV-107 would beat the other 2 lights.

 

At 1.8A at the tailcap, it probably will not be as bright as the tk-703.

 

1.8A out of a 10440 is seriously asking for trouble. At best the cell will have a life of weeks rather than years. At worst, I don't want it in my hands. If you don't care much about cell life: which I don't - then I'd still worry about having hands after a few weeks of that sort of treatment. Anything pulling more than 400mA from a 10440 is asking for trouble. You may never get it, just kill the cells, but there are other possibilities. Choices, consequences. My job is to say that every day of my working life.

 

I'm a smoker. 50% of all smokers will die from their addiction. In a bad way....

 

But always remember choices have consequences. 

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

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Don wrote:

FlashPilot wrote:

how2 wrote:

I tinnk interms of AAA brightness then RMSEN RV-107 would beat the other 2 lights.

 

At 1.8A at the tailcap, it probably will not be as bright as the tk-703.

 

1.8A out of a 10440 is seriously asking for trouble. At best the cell will have a life of weeks rather than years. At worst, I don't want it in my hands. If you don't care much about cell life: which I don't - then I'd still worry about having hands after a few weeks of that sort of treatment. Anything pulling more than 400mA from a 10440 is asking for trouble. You may never get it, just kill the cells, but there are other possibilities. Choices, consequences. My job is to say that every day of my working life.

 

I'm a smoker. 50% of all smokers will die from their addiction. In a bad way....

 

But always remember choices have consequences. 

 

Sorry, I should have added that those measurements were on NiMH. 1.8A @ 4V from a 10440... that would make for quite a tiny hand grenade wouldn't it? Stop smoking Don! All the photons from the light energy will probably give you melanoma first anyway.  

On NiMH AAA measured at the tailcap:

RMSEN RV-107 = 1.8A

Tank007 TK-703 = 2.08A

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If you like the TANK007 TK-703, but are missing the medium and the low modes and you aren't too annoyed by 2 additional strobe modes, you could also consider the Brinyte PD03A (xr-e Q5) 5-mode. Mine is nice and has no PWM flickering. (unlike my Maratac)

Look here for first impressions and here for pros and cons against the Maratac AAA SS BB ( which is essentially a tailstanding ITP A3 EOS upgraded SS).

Don
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FlashPilot wrote:

Don wrote:

FlashPilot wrote:

how2 wrote:

I tinnk interms of AAA brightness then RMSEN RV-107 would beat the other 2 lights.

 

At 1.8A at the tailcap, it probably will not be as bright as the tk-703.

 

1.8A out of a 10440 is seriously asking for trouble. At best the cell will have a life of weeks rather than years. At worst, I don't want it in my hands. If you don't care much about cell life: which I don't - then I'd still worry about having hands after a few weeks of that sort of treatment. Anything pulling more than 400mA from a 10440 is asking for trouble. You may never get it, just kill the cells, but there are other possibilities. Choices, consequences. My job is to say that every day of my working life.

 

I'm a smoker. 50% of all smokers will die from their addiction. In a bad way....

 

But always remember choices have consequences. 

 

Sorry, I should have added that those measurements were on NiMH. 1.8A @ 4V from a 10440... that would make for quite a tiny hand grenade wouldn't it? Stop smoking Don! All the photons from the light energy will probably give you melanoma first anyway.  

On NiMH AAA measured at the tailcap:

RMSEN RV-107 = 1.8A

Tank007 TK-703 = 2.08A

 

Like every other smoker out there, I want to be an ex-smoker. The last time I tried to stop I gained 20kg, 50lbs in weight. Last year. Once I've lost that weight I'll try again.

But let me tell you about a heroin addict patient of mine who spent $15,000 last month on heroin.

Just don't ask how she got that much, I really don't want to know.....

Or to ask.

Melanoma round here would require sunlight. Seriously that is not a big issue round here.

My father did have a melanoma removed from his right foot a couple of years ago. I doubt that foot has seen as much sunlight in all his 78 years as mine did in 1984. Just look at how far north Aberdeen in Scotland (Not the 30-odd imitators) is. Serious sunlight just doesn't happen around here.

 

But if you kill an NiMH, no big deal. While I have provoked NiMH cells into doing bad things, none of them have involved flames. Or explosions.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

FlashPilot
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Vectrex wrote:

If you like the TANK007 TK-703, but are missing the medium and the low modes and you aren't too annoyed by 2 additional strobe modes, you could also consider the Brinyte PD03A (xr-e Q5) 5-mode. Mine is nice and has no PWM flickering. (unlike my Maratac)

Look here for first impressions and here for pros and cons against the Maratac AAA SS BB ( which is essentially a tailstanding ITP A3 EOS upgraded SS).

 

 

Thanks for the links. I probably wont be buying any more AAA lights unless something new and revolutionary comes out some time in the future. What I'm hoping for are LED's with much higher flux densities and consumer level composite nanofibers for applications in lithium batteries. Still, its a great time for the flashaholic to be alive, and I really do enjoy all my darn flashlights... god help me.

Here's an interesting CPF link the Ray S20 and other high powered AAA lights, albeit on the pricey side.

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Yeah, this S20 looks nice, it's in the same ballpark as the Preon 1, the Revo and others. The problem is,  I'm still more limited by my batteries than by the selection of flashlights or emitters. If you look on the lightbox number in your link... the Illuminati pumps out a whooping 106 at max in the lightbox on 10440. But you can't have it all - turbo brightness , long runtime, cool running AAA - not gonna happen any time soon. Unless you invent a fusion reactor based superconducting AAA flashlight. The price is also an issue for me ... AAA are prone for losing them easily... I live in constant fear of losing my beloved Maratac AAA SS BB which I paid ~34 $ for... hence the lanyard thread. Wink

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Hmmm... by accident I let the A3 run on medium till it went out with an unprotected 10440 (the one from BuyInCoins).

After it died, it was "on" for another hour or so.

When I found out, I thought - "good thing it didn't explode" - but was sure it's trash.

 

Just out of curiosity, I measured it and was surprised to see ~3,5 V or so.

Seeing that, I risked putting it in the charger - reached 4,1 V without problems.

 

Question - how come? Is there any protection inside the light?

Or is there any electrical effect I'm not taking into account?

If so - is it safe to do this regularly?

Don
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Keep an eye on the self-discharge it may well have increased and doubtless the capacity has been reduced.

 

A lot of protected cells don't cut off on low voltage anyway.

 

My guess is that the voltage dropped enough for the light to cut out (Lithium ion cells voltage can sag like crazy under load) and it decided not to restart when the voltage recovered once the load was removed.

 

Keep a very close eye on it when charging though - it is when charging that cells are most likely to blow.

 

If it can hold above 4V for a couple of days after charging it'll probably be OK.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

anduril
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Don wrote:
If it can hold above 4V for a couple of days after charging it'll probably be OK.

So I guess you mean I shouldn't repeat it Wink

Still not intuitive, as 3,5 V is not a deep discharge, is it?

Or do you mean that it falls much lower under load and THAT is what is dangerous?

Don
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anduril wrote:

Don wrote:
If it can hold above 4V for a couple of days after charging it'll probably be OK.

So I guess you mean I shouldn't repeat it Wink

Still not intuitive, as 3,5 V is not a deep discharge, is it?

Or do you mean that it falls much lower under load and THAT is what is dangerous?

 

I reckon it probably went down to around 0.8-1.0V - recharging from that low can be a bad idea. But once the light was off, it couldn't turn itself back on as the cell voltage recovered.

 

That's my guess anyway.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

agenthex
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anduril wrote:

Don wrote:
If it can hold above 4V for a couple of days after charging it'll probably be OK.

So I guess you mean I shouldn't repeat it Wink

Still not intuitive, as 3,5 V is not a deep discharge, is it?

Or do you mean that it falls much lower under load and THAT is what is dangerous?

 

The voltage does't fall off linearly at that level. If you have a resistor, you can try measuring what the voltage went down to with a load.

 

Kind of weird the light was entirely off given it's a boost circuit. The battery must've gone to really low level.

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While on this subject, back on Aug. 10,  I got 3 dead laptop battery packs from friends.  I took them apart (first time ever) and all were 18650's.  1 battery pack had 4 red Sanyo's, another had 6 pink Samsung's and the last one had 6 blue LG's (i think).  I checked their voltage and the 6 pink Samsung's were all 4.11v which is pretty good.  The blue LG's were all 3.98v which isn't that good but not that bad either.  But the 4 red Sanyo's were all around 1.45v which I would think should be instantly recycled right? 

So anyway, I charged all 4 and they all went up to 4.21v which is great but I wondered how they would hold their charge.  After 1 week they dropped to 4.2v, 2 weeks down to 4.19v, 4 weeks down to 4.18v, 8 weeks down to 4.17v and now after 10 weeks are down to 4.16v. 

So what do you guys think?  Recycle them or keep them? 

Thanks.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

agenthex
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That's pretty good. I have a bunch of good green sony's from a toshiba pack, and many mediocre sanyo's from lenovos.

 

The most annoying thing about these batteries is that they're tabbed so you get the little pips after taking them off. Perhaps I should just cut them off on the side of the tab. The flat tops also make them hard to fit or won't fit lights without a spring on the + side.

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fishinfool
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I peeled off the tabs with needle nose pliers and grinded down the leftover pips with my dremel.  They don't look perfect but are good enough especially since they were just given to me by friends.  You just can't beat the price of $free.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

Ways
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Don wrote:

Like every other smoker out there, I want to be an ex-smoker. The last time I tried to stop I gained 20kg, 50lbs in weight. Last year. Once I've lost that weight I'll try again.

But let me tell you about a heroin addict patient of mine who spent $15,000 last month on heroin.

Just don't ask how she got that much, I really don't want to know.....

Or to ask.

Melanoma round here would require sunlight. Seriously that is not a big issue round here.

My father did have a melanoma removed from his right foot a couple of years ago. I doubt that foot has seen as much sunlight in all his 78 years as mine did in 1984. Just look at how far north Aberdeen in Scotland (Not the 30-odd imitators) is. Serious sunlight just doesn't happen around here.

 

But if you kill an NiMH, no big deal. While I have provoked NiMH cells into doing bad things, none of them have involved flames. Or explosions.

 

Off Topic but in a good cause. Being a heavy smoker for the last 20 odd years and a social smoker for a few years prior to that i felt i would always be a smoker and gave up trying to give it up. However i have not smoked so much as a single drag in the last 3 weeks and i don't feel the need to, how is this possible you ask? well i bought myself an e-cigarette NOT to give up smoking but to take care of the craving while i was at work and unable to smoke, it worked so well for me that i stopped smoking altogether. e-cigs are basically battery holders with switches just like our flashlights but instead of the lamp / led it has a small coil which heats up and vaporises a mixture of water / glycerine and nicotine which is then inhaled and relieves the craving without the tar and thousands of toxic & carcinogenic compounds found in tobacco, so in essence i gave up smoking by accident and so far it has been all gravy, although to be fair i have simply changed the way i satisfy my addiction but i am quite happy to go on inhaling what is essentially water vapour with nicotine in until i drop dead which will hopefully be a few good years later than if i continued to smoke tobacco. Another plus is the fact that i can smoke in restaurants , cinema , football match , on planes trains and in automobiles Wink and even better my non smoker wife no longer complains that i spend too much time out in the workshed (smoking) and i can sit down and watch TV without constantly being reminded that i smell like an ashtray Big Smile one major downside is that i have spent 3 months worth of flashlight budget on vaporisers and various e-juices and have not yet got a Stainless Steel e-cig! though i do have a very nice aluminium and brass one, and another in bronze. Laughing

 

Just a heads up Don , may work for you and the startup cost was negligible (£20-30) for everything i needed and spares of everything too so for the price of a couple of budget flashlights you could just possibly kick tobacco into touch and have more years ahead to appreciate flashlights, oh and the cost of the e-juice is around £2.50 for 5ml and they claim that is the equivalent of 50 ciggarettes for me it is more like 60-70 but YMMV so may have an increased budget for more flashlights. 

Couple of forums with good info on.

http://e-cig-reviews.com  straight talking reviewer and of those items i have bought based on his reviews i have to say they where spot on.

http://ukvapers.com 

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com

 

These are sites i have ordered juice and equipment from and had pleasant transactions with.

http://www.liberty-flights.co.uk

http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/

http://www.oksmokey.com/

 

Take care.

brted
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brted wrote:

 I carried an iTP for at least six month every day in my pocket with my keys and it was just barely showing wear along the edges. I think they are definitely worth the premium . . . which is why I bought another one.

I found my lost light in my front yard today! After a month and a number of rainy days, the light worked just fine. But I already bought a replacement, then I jumped at a chance to get a used one in titanium, so now I have 3 of them!

3 iTP A3's

ezeqdb
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Where can I get the Ti version at a reasonable price?

"no le temo a la oscuridad, la oscuridad me teme a mí"

brted
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I got mine used for $25 from someone at CPF, which seemed kind of reasonable (compared to $45 new). It has a few scuffs on it, but otherwise is fine.

trooplewis
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Just a note, the iTp A3 upgrade edition is on sale at goinggear for 15% off.

Not exactly a budget AAA light, but one of the most positively reviewed ones around.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

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