Cree XHP50.2

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steel_1024
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The_Driver wrote:
Where does get get them overseas?

from China
However, the number is very small.
So I guess these are samples.

Sorry for my poor english.

finges
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Does anyone know a good 16mm 12v pcb with dtp for this led?

JasonWW
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finges wrote:
Does anyone know a good 16mm 12v pcb with dtp for this led?

I don’t know, but you might contact this Maxtoch store on Aliexpress and ask if they carry it. I only saw aluminum 16mm 12v boards currently listed, but I know they don’t list everything they have.

http://s.aliexpress.com/amq6VNri

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finges
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Thanks, I also found these but don’t know if they are dtp

TBone
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finges wrote:
Thanks, I also found these but don’t know if they are dtp
At Kaidomain they are listed as DTP. Don’t know if this is correct but I would give it a try.
JasonWW
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I was always advised to avoid those 12v mcpcb that had the z shape in the middle and to get the ones with 5 seperate pads. I’m not sure the exact reason, maybe a more experienced member can explain why.

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JasonWW
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This is what Jerommel told me.

Jerommel wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

There you have the problem of giving the thermal pad half the voltage, because it is connected to the pads, and to the body of the light.
So it’s a bad recommendation, because you will short circuit half the LED and probably blow up the driver too.


Jerommel wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
You could cut the traces (on the 6v version) and ‘jumper-wire’ the 2 halves in series.

Like this:


.

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finges
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Thanks for the advice!

I have a few 16mm dtp pcb’s for XM-L. I’ll try the cut&bridge method.

finges
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Success Big Smile

Still with old test led (CW XHP50).

Just ordered a 4000K XHP50.2.

It’ll go into a HC33 to replace the CW XHP35.

Jaded
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Can someone explain the 3-step and 5-step characteristic of the XHP50.2? Which one is better or more ideal to acquire? From what I’ve observed so far, 5-step has better CRI rating.

Wieselflinkpro
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With 3-step the color-temperature you get is closer binned and there es less variety than in 5-step.

Jaded
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Are you saying 3-step is better? What would you buy for yourself?

The_Driver
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3-step is more consistent in tint, but for 4000k it’s consistently yellow-greenish.

JasonWW
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What do you mean, bad? It’s an led. It has its pros and cons like any other led.

Are you asking if Zebralight is a good or bad brand? I hear they are good.

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It’s a smaller version of the 70.2. Personally, If I were building a light, I would go with the bigger 70 as it puts out a lot more light at the same amp load as the xhp50.

Fet drivers have been know to blow the 50.2, so you have to be careful and run weaker batteries to limit the amp draw.

But if your buying a factory light, your in a whole other world. Most folks here are into building hot rods and pushing the limits. A factory light should be fine. It’s probably using a boost driver which carefully controls the max output so it will last a long time. You will be fine.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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TBone
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The latest datasheet rev1 shows 3 V variants of the XHP50.2.
Has anybody see them in reality?

Texas_Ace
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TBone wrote:
The latest datasheet rev1 shows 3 V variants of the XHP50.2. Has anybody see them in reality?

This is news to me, if this is true this opens a lot of neat options. I wounder if they would do the same thing for the XHP70.2?

djozz
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That is pretty cool, a 3V XHP50.2

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Checked. The datasheet is quite unpolished, many contradictions. One place says 3V is only 5000K while another 5000K-7000K. But it is definitely there.

I also took a look at XHP70.2. No sign of 3V.

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