OK, I give up. I’m no good at modding and I haven’t even got a proper work bench.
I just received my Astrolux S41S Stainless Steel, put it through some torture and it’s fine. Nichia one.
It’s my ideal 18650. Low enough low and high high.
It only lacks one thing for me to be perfect. Lighted tailcap. Preferably steel switch with lighted surround (blue or red) or lighted tailcap rubbery, opaque like standard but lighted (blue, preferably red).
Who can and wants to make one for me that I can just “screw in”?
If I loose the fancy modes (strobe, beacon, etc.) I don’t care. Do want the lowest through highest plain lighting modes.
Please PM if you can and want and the price
Thanks, Bas
I may also be interested in one too.
The tailcap isn’t all you need. The driver will probably need modding too. Not modding the driver doesn’t generally cause you to lose modes, you lose timing because the driver never thinks its turned off. So most of them basically become next-mode memory since any length of off-time is seen as a short press. I mean if you’re okay with that then yeah, just drop in a lighted tail and be done. But if you want it to work “right” you’ll have to do the driver mod too.
You’re not wrong though. That light is great with a lighted tailcap. I’m not opposed to doing the mod for you (and/or others) but I know I can’t do it until after the holidays. Life’s busy right now. But if you’re still looking after the new year then send me a PM. You’d have to send me your whole light though, so shipping may be an issue for us.
Here’s mine in the same light, by the way:
If shipping gives you guys problems, maybe an EU member would step up to help as well.
Also, a metal switch button is really pretty specific to the Convoy S2+. It’s not just a piece you can swap out like the rubber buttons, it’s part of the tailcap itself
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
At the end of the day, shipping is not the problem. And there’s some EU members who could do it
. But I’m in no hurry at all and in terms of shipping, I don’t actually care. There’s no custom’s issues as it’s a private matter and shipping costs are not to big.
Well there’s the man himself. Don’t let me step on your toes PD. If you’d rather do these mods then go for it. Its your baby.
And really, it would be a couple of weeks before I could do any anyway.
Well, shipping costs from US to Netherlands are much bigger than the other way around. Depends on how much you want it I guess
emarkd: I don’t do them to order, I’m glad when others step up to do it for people that ask
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Hee Bas, I can do it for you, saves the light a trip to the States, but it will be in the new year too, and after another little project. Have a S41S too, and will figure out some working resistor values. I also have Oshpark boards for 6 leds in a circle and a small collection of colour leds.
I think that we can sort out a suitable shipping method, probably a bicycle
So the only thing lacking is a little time..
link to djozz tests
LOL now yours was the reply I was hoping for
. And no hurry! LOL don’t need 6 bloody leds in the bleeding’ tail, one or two will do nicely
. Let me know when and where to send it and thanks!
There is a lighted tailswitch availiable
http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5×6-Flashlight-Lighting-Switch-For-DIY-p-1102279.html?rmmds=search
But you need a bleed resistor from battery + to the body
And most likely also add a capacitor on the to change the modes normally
SMD resistors and capacitors can be recycled from from old electronic parts
I am from Germany and was also thinking to get the modification, but its not so easy and I really dont need a lighted tailcap as they have quite high parasitic drain
And on a SS tailcap you cant just unscrew a bit for lockout like on a anodised light
There is a lot information in this topic
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
@Lexel, is that switch only for Astrolux X5/X6 and won’t work with other flashlight?
we buy light for a brighter tomorrow
I’m expecting a S41S in the mail soon (well, i hope it will be soon..)
And i don’t like the translucent tailcap in particular, but would also like to have a stainless steel button with a ring of light (and not just on the S41S).
Maybe blue or green because they’re bright and need little current, maybe red because red needs only 1.9 Volts.
Either way, i’m thinking about using something like this:
Only to use the ring and piston.
But i have many other things to do so it may take a while before i get to it.
Those flashlights got almost identical switches, it should fit without or little modification
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
+1
I wonder if it’s ok for the Convoy S2+.
Not a flashaholic... I hope!
An attempt for parts "terminology guide with pictures" for newbies!
Chinese e-shops Batterry Shipping Policy per Country
BLF, the home of light!
Wasn’t the tail PCB all ready for some LEDs for lighted tailcap?
Could check my V1 the day after tomorrow but I remember a pic from a review making it look that part only needs some little LEDs
Driver is something else of course
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
bump
Any idea someone?
BG’s lighted switch specs say it has Diameter 17mm and (as I see at Simon’s AE store) Convoy S2+ switch must have D=16mm.
As I’m trying to do my first mod on an S2+, can someone tell me if this 17mm lighted switch can fit to S2+ I wanna mod? Will some simple DIY trimming to it’s diameter make it fit easily?
Not a flashaholic... I hope!
An attempt for parts "terminology guide with pictures" for newbies!
Chinese e-shops Batterry Shipping Policy per Country
BLF, the home of light!
Just ordered one of these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/19mm-Purple-Ring-Illuminated-Pushbutton-...
Nice, but what did you buy them for? They’re not click on=click off, they’re on as long as you push the button … The only application I can see is for calling the elevator you must be constructing yourself
I will only use the top bit: the outer ring, the translucent ring and the button. And a bit of the threaded part.
The switch i will not use.
I will cut it off under the nut (moer), it will use just a mm more space than a normal slicone boot inside the tailcap.
(at least, that’s the plan…
If it’s impossible maybe i could put it ‘as is’ in my Courui)
Sounds interesting! Please let us follow your progress
same here ordered it and waiting to see if it will fit ,i will let you know.
shockli great imr batteries
Correct, it will physically fit with minor sanding.
The S2+ with metal button is a special case though, the little plastic ring lets very little light through.With that old design, the light will either be too dim to be visible, or draw so much power it won’t be worth it at all.
Have fun tinkering, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
And when it’s all too different from what i expect, i will just build that private elevator.
PS: The nut probably isn’t gonna fit, so i will make it a ring shape or just glue the lot in place with grey epoxy.
We’ll see.
Modders, I’ve been wondering what would be the best tool for retaining ring removal and thought I would ask here instead before I bend all my tweezers tip
TIA
This retaining ring on Tool Ti doesn’t seem want to budge
we buy light for a brighter tomorrow
Needle nose pliers (is that what they’re called?) would be good.
Haven’t got one myself, did have one like it but with flat bits, but can’t seem to find anywhere… (lost in some unknown dimension)
Have one with a bent beak though.
But i usually use my sturdy tweezers.
Sometimes i drill the holes a little wider for pointed pliers.
My Leatherman has rather small tips too.
I usually get it turned loose eventually.
But sometimes those rings are threaded anti clockwise…
Yeah I haven’t met a retaining ring yet that was a match for a set of small precision needlenose pliers. I find tweezers easier and faster to maneuver, but they just don’t have the strength for breaking rings loose, or fully tightening them. So I always start with my needlenose to break the ring loose, then switch to the long electronics tweezers to spin it out the rest of the way.
A very important point. Convoy especially likes to do this. Be careful.
I bought a couple of the BG switches linked above. They seem decent quality. I put one in an old tube light, and indeed it does work. Unfortunately, the light it gives off is a very dim blue, and the light has become the dreaded next mode memory. It does work though.
I cancelled the order for the 19mm switch.
I received my S41S XP-G3 today (yippee! BRIGHT!!) and it’s not gonna fit.
So now i ordered a 16mm switch instead, because the hole in the tailcap is just 14mm, so 16mm is enough.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/16mm-12V-LED-Illuminated-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-Short-Body-total-length-21mm/32440604575.html
The switch PCB already has pads to solder SMD LEDs and resistors on by the way.
But the switch itself is rather flimsy i.m.o.
fit just fine,the switch lights ,but i cant power on the flashlight (need to mod it i guess with resistor),the only problem is the aluminimum spacer between the switch and the rubber block lot of light,of course you can drill it.shockli great imr batteries
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