Budget LED flashlights for C-cells or D-cells for under 20 $? Suggestions? Update: With self-built 4xAA XP-G R5

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Vectrex
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Yeah, my last post was directed to agenthex.. you slipped in between.

But concerning your modding project.. as I posted in #13, it will be a nice amount of money to mod a Mag to SST 50/90. I also think these mods cover the "coolness" and "I wanna have that too" of flashaholics. From a technical standpoint it makes no sense to take a poorly heatsinked flashlight body and make it more thermoconductive by adding expensive heatsinks. I also think, that the financial budget that xP.1337 mentioned in post #15 of 150$ is reasonable. If I would own a Mag, I would spent 25 $ on a FUSION 36 dropin.

And concerning that SSR-50:

You still need a big chunk of aluminium, because there is nothing in a standard Mag to mount it on.

charlestt
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Thanks Vectrex i'm not doing this for any reason other than it's a relatively easy mod and has the WOW factor. I live in town so will hardly get to use it but its nice to know that i have it and that I made it Smile

And that i've ran out of places to add leds to on the TT lol

 

 

 

 http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/charlestt225/Sig/A1200023-1.jpg" width="159" he

Vectrex
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You might wanna look at CPFs Magmods there are members that have done this before. There are even kits available to make it easier. You even can buy them prebuilt on CPFMP ( or this ),  if you are not sure that you can do it yourself. There even is a prebuilt dropin and a VIDEO.

And to agenthex... look at the nationality of the guy in the first two links Wink...

agenthex
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My plan for a SSR-50/90 was to stick it on a roundish PC heatsink which even has a fan, and get parallel p7/mce drivers.

 

I can then figure out some way of sticking this in a PVC pipe with either slide or screw action going to a big ass aspheric for the ultimate zooming light. If I want I can put on a handle w/ trigger switch like a spotlight.

 

Or for the really lazy, I can just get a cheap 6v spotlight and stick everything in that and use w/ the reflector, but then I'd get too much flood since those reflectors are designed for a source that emits in 360deg.

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agenthex
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Vectrex, those sst's are meant to be surface mounted, and the hack provided is very easy to mess up and burn up the emitter. I wouldn't even want to risk an aftermarket ebay mount on a $50 part because you have no idea how well the reflow was done.

 

And charlestt, I know we don't have formal rules about pics in signatures, but would you mind just linking to them or something instead? It's kind of disruptive to the flow of posts when paging through.

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Vectrex
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agenthex: Didn't you just post in #58 that the SSR is a better solution? Either I misinterpret your post #65 wrong, or you have a split personality and are arguing with yourself. Or did you mean , that they are easier to install electrically? I haven't seen base blocks for the SSRs yet, are there any?

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Not sure what you mean. I just said SST's (vs SSR's) were meant for a surface mount solution, not soldering to wires and then gluing onto a post, which is why those pills are not all that well engineered (especially for a German... :)). An SSR is exactly designed (same as stars for cree's) for the role that these guys are trying to use them for.

 

I'm not sure you need a special block for a SSR; haven't looked at the mechanical dimensions. They look like they can go onto any generic cylinder (like a cree star) with a couple holes in it. A guide for centering might be nice, though.

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Vectrex
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OK, now I see what you mean... hmm, maybe SSRs were available in a later point in time? Or where SSRs available on day one?

Or they wanted to avoid one thermal adhesive layer extra,  which would be added by the star... dunno..

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I don't know, but even if not I'm sure people were putting them on some kind of MCPCB from day 1 since it's the obvious way to go. I read that kit thread and the guy was talking about how many milling bits he broke trying to make these small complex-ish forms and it just seems a bit ridiculous since this is a solved problem.

 

Maybe he did it for the lulz, but as an engineering exercise it was lacking.

 

Or they wanted to avoid one thermal adhesive layer extra,  which would be added by the star... dunno..

 

Perhaps that's the rationale, but gluing in such a small space with two things that aren't mated is not really the solution. Not to mention their whole understanding and attendance to heat transfer is complete rank amateur. Did you see the boasting about OMG copper, and they're setting up shop in an enclosed space with no fins nor active cooling? Hilarious.

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Vectrex
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Man ... suddenly I'm very happy not to own a Maglite and that I don't have to worry about such problems Wink

And what I said before:

From a technical standpoint it makes no sense to take a poorly heatsinked flashlight body and make it more thermoconductive by adding expensive heatsinks... that are not suitable/working properly...

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Well, the problem can be solved with a mininum of active cooling. I mean, you already have a suitable dc source already . The only problem is that it won't be necessarily be water proof anymore but it's not like these lights will go for a dunk anyway.

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water-cooled heat-pipes FTW ...Tongue out... I think the Maglite purists would not consider active cooling a viable option

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he said the britelumens slug is a bad idea???? i think its great

get rid of that stupid useless aluminum wafer inbetween the LED and the headsink!!!!!

 

thats all it is. a USELESS heatsink that cant heat sink more than a millasecond at 9 amps

SSR-90 is a waste of time and money. get an SST-90

 

the britelumens heat sink is a GREAT heat sink from what ive read.  i get payed friday. u guys might find out sooner than later Wink

 

if i can figure out a driver that is!!!!

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I think he meant putting the star  on a massive aluminum cylinder rather than the LED emitter directly... just like you put an XP-G star in a p60 module. It's just easier to handle the star than the emitter alone. Look at post #67 ... he is taking about a generic cylinder.. instead of a specially milled heatsink... and I think he is right. You can have those cylinders for under 10 bucks and have a bigger area to apply your thermal adhesive. Do you know why there aren't cooling blocks for SSRs Maglite mods? Were they available  later than the SSTs ? Or is the heat transfer from emitter to the star to the block inferior to the direct-mount solution?

agenthex
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xP.1337 wrote:

he said the britelumens slug is a bad idea???? i think its great

get rid of that stupid useless aluminum wafer inbetween the LED and the headsink!!!!!

 

thats all it is. a USELESS heatsink that cant heat sink more than a millasecond at 9 amps

SSR-90 is a waste of time and money. get an SST-90

 

the britelumens heat sink is a GREAT heat sink from what ive read.  i get payed friday. u guys might find out sooner than later Wink

 

if i can figure out a driver that is!!!!

 

You know those MCPCB's that most all high power led's in our flashlights are mounted on? They were created by professionals whose job it is to make these solutions for people who don't have surface mount/reflow capability, for a good reason. A lumius die is several times the heat dissipation and cost of those, so maybe we should trust their judgement.

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xP.1337
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the SSR is just that, an SST with a star stuck to it.

 

its just ANOTHER heat sinking issue. every time you change mediums for heatsinking you lose some of that ability.

why put a star inbetween the led and your main heat sink? it makes no sense from an engineering stand point.  stars are designed for newbie modders to easily play with.  Thats why britelite doesnt engineer the heat sink to take a star.

 

by creating a heat sink to go DIRECTLY onto the led itself, you gain better thermal heat sinking properties.  just that simple. 

so as you said, in your question, the transfer from the emitter to the star to the block is inferior to the transfer from the emitter to the block

its better to have the custom milled aluminum designed specific for the LED.  thats why their p7 version also is JUST for the emitter. 

its a MUCH better design than a block that takes a star.

 

HOWEVER, it is difficult on some LEDs to solder the leads (seems its easier on the SST smd) so that is why cree leds (q5, p4, r5 etc) MUST have some sort of star.  SMD leds are just not easy for the average modder.

while the sst-90 and sst-50 are SMD, their leads are apparently (have yet to get one) easier to solder wires to. 

 

we shall see Smile

a 9amp LED flashlight is in order. once i finish my HID retro flashlight Big Smile

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why put a star inbetween the led and your main heat sink? it makes no sense from an engineering stand point.  stars are designed for newbie modders to easily play with. 

Stars are designed for people without need for specialized form factor or don't have surface mount equipment, because all the emitters themselves are surface mount. In comparison, you're going to be  gluing two small squares with at max 30w going through it to each other, right next to a couple wires you need to align and solder perfectly with 10A going.

 

In this instance, the bottom of the sst is not going to be finished for mating with the top of the HS post, and I can assure you that Arctic Silver in the best case is worse than solder. AMD tried this for a bit by not bonding a conducting plate to the top of their semi's epoxied and polished top and people still messed up processors even with a decent mechanical mounting solution and support pads on top of that. On the positive side, these emitters go up to 150degC and only lose 25% of output, and you don't have to have to worry much about lifetime before failure for a flashlight. I can pretty much guarentee many of those homemade lights with this slug are >100deg junction temp.

 

For heatsinking requirements, I suggest you take a look at ~30w TDP cpus and approximate size needed for good heat control. Make note that those include an active fan, which is about an order of magnitude more effective than without. Luminus's own dev kits include a CPU HS/Fan like solution for testing out their devices.

 

Of course, YMMV, you could bequite good at handicraft.

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Here are couple links I just googled to what Luminus themselves sell to people testing out their devices (the cheapest kit is ~150, and they're typically $300+):

 

http://www.luminus.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/0179ad38a075ca3c31f708ed...

http://www.luminus.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/0179ad38a075ca3c31f708ed...

 

Given that these homegrown bits we make are similar to prototypes, it's probably best to start with something closer to those than whatever the cpf clowns come up with Smile  But anyway, it's just a hobby, not serious bidness.

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You have to do some grinding, but people report that you can fit these drop-ins on a D-cell maglite.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26127

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.35241

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the problem with those is that I think even after you fit them in you have to soldier them to the switch. LT sell the 2x 18650 trustfire bodies for them for cheap, so that may be the better route to take.

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Small Sun ZY-A8 CREE Q3 (3xC) weird light... looks like a blown up C78 with side clicky... I like weird Wink

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This one is interesting, a LedLenser fake, with 3C batteries, and an aspherical lenses of around 40mm

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sku.Small_Sun_ZY_A8_CREE_Q3_3_Mode_130_lumens_Zooming_LED_Flashlight_Black_(3xC)-33894

 

"no le temo a la oscuridad, la oscuridad me teme a mí"

xP.1337
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oooo anyone have that one?

is it modable!?

 

my Ultrafire T8 still hasnt been shipped from manafont

 

 

OH YEA!

 

Ocean State Job Lot (for those in the US)

has a 2C LED flashlight. tactical head (Sharp too) for 8 bux.

i bought one, not bad for the money

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pony wrote:

I get one led flashlight.It works perfectly and cheap.It Brights yellow spotlight with great peneration power, can identify surface and inner cracks.I like it very much.

Hi Pony, a few tips:

  • Please introduce yourself first before trying to sell products
  • If you are a seller, please say "I am a seller." Pretending that you are a pleased customer when you are actually a seller is deceptive and belittling.
  • Please don't hijack other threads to sell your product.

I'll leave your post to the other BLF users' discretion. I won't promise that they won't get your post deleted or your account blocked.

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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River Rock makes a 2-"C" cell LED, but I have no idea which LED they put in it or if you can mod it.

I had an old Luxeon one, it was a very nice size.

 

http://www.riverrockledlights.com/shop/flashlights/2c_nightfire_led_flas...

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

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Still no one in the known internet has bought & reviewed this?  

 

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/small-sun-zy777-cree-q5-led-flashlight-3xd-p-7525

 

I really could use a D-cell beater in car....

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It appears, that google-search with ZY-777 gives pics and stuff from a very different looking Smallsun.

 

I asked Manafont, if markings are correct. Maybe it helps finding some user info...

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Nope.

According to Manafont, markings are correct. ZY-777.

I´m on the edge bying this just to test since there´s absolutely no info on this one... Flat Stare

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agenthex wrote:

I've had this one above in my kaidomain wish-list for a while (waiting for some other sucker to review it first Smile

 

SMALL SUN ZY-777 CREE Q2 1-Mode Flashlight (3*D)  17.99

 

 

 

Aaahhhh, what the heck, I can´t wait anymore so I´m going to be that sucker Big Smile

From Manafont and 16,34$ paid.

Yes, I will do a review after a month or so when this one arrives.  Asked in additional info to pick a working one Wink

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I ordered the ZY-777 on sunday and it was shipped out yesterday, sorry for not telling it here but hopefully it will be worth the money Smile

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