- Did you insert the battery with the positive end facing the head?
- Maybe the head is loose? Try tightening the head?
- Try cleaning all of the metal contact points. Maybe there’s a piece of dirt that’s preventing the tail cap from properly tightening up and completing the circuit.
- Try bypassing the switch. Use a piece of metal like a paper clip or tweezers. If the flashlight lights up, the switch is the problem.
Still no light – officially. however when first holding cap to end ready to screw down the light comes on. But once I start crewing cap down contact is lost.
I got other lights but this one is my goto lite. What can i do?
Look inside the tailcap. Remove the brass ring with some Needle nose pliers. Remove the switch/spring/PCB assembly. Inspect the assembly. Check operation. Reassemble. Make sure the brass ring is good and tight. Make sure the tailcap is good and tight. Make sure the end of the battery tube that contacts the inside of the tail cap is clean bare metal. If it still doesn’t work get a new switch. 17mm omten 1288
Convoy sell ready-made 17mm Omten 1288 switch assemblies, should you need one.
EDIT: blast, I’ve just noticed that these are no longer available. Do you have a soldering iron? Omten 1288 switches are sold all over the place (Convoy sell 10 packs here for example).
Bend a paper clip to fit around the retaining ring of the switch. If it works when screwed together, you need a slightly larger shim in the switch assy, or thicker retaining ring.
I’d start with some simple troubleshooting tests:
- Did you insert the battery with the positive end facing the head?
- Maybe the head is loose? Try tightening the head?
- Try cleaning all of the metal contact points. Maybe there’s a piece of dirt that’s preventing the tail cap from properly tightening up and completing the circuit.
- Try bypassing the switch. Use a piece of metal like a paper clip or tweezers. If the flashlight lights up, the switch is the problem.
OK. The metal clip as contact works.
But still no response from clicky cap.
Good, it’s not dead.
Check the retaining ring inside the “clicky cap”. Tighten it.
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Try get another fresh 18650 to test on it.
I just “cooked” my driver >.<
Now when contacting the cap ready to crew down at angle it works.
When aligned with thread & screwed down – no response.
Still no light – officially. however when first holding cap to end ready to screw down the light comes on. But once I start crewing cap down contact is lost.
I got other lights but this one is my goto lite. What can i do?
Look inside the tailcap. Remove the brass ring with some Needle nose pliers. Remove the switch/spring/PCB assembly. Inspect the assembly. Check operation. Reassemble. Make sure the brass ring is good and tight. Make sure the tailcap is good and tight. Make sure the end of the battery tube that contacts the inside of the tail cap is clean bare metal. If it still doesn’t work get a new switch. 17mm omten 1288
Convoy sell ready-made 17mm Omten 1288 switch assemblies, should you need one.
EDIT: blast, I’ve just noticed that these are no longer available. Do you have a soldering iron? Omten 1288 switches are sold all over the place (Convoy sell 10 packs here for example).
I don’t trust myself to pull it apart. Bummer.
Pull it apart there is nothing you could break
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Nothing to it ‘AaLF’, go for it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
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Bend a paper clip to fit around the retaining ring of the switch. If it works when screwed together, you need a slightly larger shim in the switch assy, or thicker retaining ring.
If the retaining ring is too deep in the tail, you can bend some copper strand in round shape between the board and retaining ring
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+