Ah yea sorry mate. People where saying the BLF X6 driver has issues over 10 amps? The older A6 driver will do over that. What driver did you buy? Why not mod the stock driver? Any reason you chose to FET over this driver?
One main reason was Narsil it self , i really like it .
hannesremo wrote:
Are you talking about the 3 drivers that would supply 5A ?
If so, then that’s what I was thinking. Don’t parallel supply the same to each? But if you connect them in series, the current would be distribued evenly. Say 30 amps on series will be 10A per led, and in parallel, close to 30 to all example?
In series the same current would go through all of the leds , total current will be equal to the current of each one xhp70 .
In parallel , if total current is 30 amps , it will be distributed equally , 10 amps to each led .
For a build like that , you need to mod stock driver (probably a resistor mod) , or use a fet driver (leds in parallel , current will be as high as batteries can give , and leds’ Vf allow ) .
In a series circuit, the current through each of the components is the same, and the voltage across the circuit is the sum of the voltages across each component In a parallel circuit, the voltage across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents through each component.
Yea basically but remember these are 6 volts LEDs so you need 2 batteries in series to make the 6 volt led work and 2 batteries in parallel.
The drivers will be connected in parallel if using more then one.
Amperage wise from the driver you want at least 15 amps. In a parallel circuit each led will receive 5 amps. So for the 3 the total 15 amps. That may give you around 12000- 13000 lumens.
that’s whatbI mean, it comes in 2s2p configuration from factory.
So then it gets 6v+. And all in parallel to achieve 5 ish A.
But is one driver enough, or do ai need 3?
perhaps remove or change out the current limiting resistors?
This seems the easiest route and you can then report to us on your results. I don't think anyone here has tried it yet. You don't have to remove the stock resistors. Just stack additional resistors on top to lower resistance. I prefer to solder a wire to each end the bank and then swap resistors at the wire ends. Much easier and less heat stress to the driver.
I haven't opened my wifes 4S MT03 yet, but one of the reviewers posted pics of the 2S2P driver and it had 3 separate buck drivers (one for each LED). So, yes, there should be 3 different banks. I would expect them to all have the same resistors values in each one.
Yea my driver pic is on the first pages of this threads it appears to have 2 R100 sense resistors per led? I could be wrong I’ll have to open it again and have a look.
I thought adding resistors, made the resitance higher thus lower current? I forgot how it goes.
Resistors work like restriction,more ohms, less current, less ohms more current? right? So how can adding resistors lower the resistance? Unless you put a smaller resistor on top of the other?
The small R100 resistors . You need to lower the resistance not increase it . Removing one resistor will increase resistance ( two 100mΩ resistors in parallel , total resistance 50mΩ )
yeah, I see them, I have some spare r100, laying around, from a scrapped skyray ok? But explain how can 2x r100 be 50? One would think 200? Please explain why it works like this?
I will build my one , with Texas Avenger boards . I use the 22mm boards , with LDO : http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447
One main reason was Narsil it self , i really like it .
In series the same current would go through all of the leds , total current will be equal to the current of each one xhp70 .
In parallel , if total current is 30 amps , it will be distributed equally , 10 amps to each led .
For a build like that , you need to mod stock driver (probably a resistor mod) , or use a fet driver (leds in parallel , current will be as high as batteries can give , and leds’ Vf allow ) .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
In a series circuit, the current through each of the components is the same, and the voltage across the circuit is the sum of the voltages across each component In a parallel circuit, the voltage across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents through each component.
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Getting a bit confused here to say the least lol. So I would connect them together in parallel preferably?
Maybe 5 is enough?
Yea basically but remember these are 6 volts LEDs so you need 2 batteries in series to make the 6 volt led work and 2 batteries in parallel.
The drivers will be connected in parallel if using more then one.
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Amperage wise from the driver you want at least 15 amps. In a parallel circuit each led will receive 5 amps. So for the 3 the total 15 amps. That may give you around 12000- 13000 lumens.
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that’s whatbI mean, it comes in 2s2p configuration from factory.
So then it gets 6v+. And all in parallel to achieve 5 ish A.
But is one driver enough, or do ai need 3?
what? huh?
If you are using the the 5 amp drivers you will need 3 to get 15 amps. And some panadol lol
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I bet a major headache.
Maybe you travel to Finland, and do it for me eh?
And I’m studying to become an electrician. I had a hard time understanding lol. Don’t look good for me huh?
Just go with a fet or mod the current driver first. You can buy resistors for cheap. It’s easy to do it just get confusing to talk about lol.
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Yeah will have to sleep on it!
What a soup huh? We all talked at the same time?
Hahaha yea. usually I’m half on here and playing battlefield at the same time lol
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This seems the easiest route and you can then report to us on your results. I don't think anyone here has tried it yet. You don't have to remove the stock resistors. Just stack additional resistors on top to lower resistance. I prefer to solder a wire to each end the bank and then swap resistors at the wire ends. Much easier and less heat stress to the driver.
Just took a look on the driver .
It seems that it has different sense resistors (to control current) for every LED .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
^
I haven't opened my wifes 4S MT03 yet, but one of the reviewers posted pics of the 2S2P driver and it had 3 separate buck drivers (one for each LED). So, yes, there should be 3 different banks. I would expect them to all have the same resistors values in each one.
Yea my driver pic is on the first pages of this threads it appears to have 2 R100 sense resistors per led? I could be wrong I’ll have to open it again and have a look.
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Exactly .
It has 2 x R100 in parallel for every led . So total resistance is 50 mΩ . Adding another one will drop resistance to 33.33 mΩ .
I will have to try it today or tomorrow .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
I thought adding resistors, made the resitance higher thus lower current? I forgot how it goes.
Resistors work like restriction,more ohms, less current, less ohms more current? right? So how can adding resistors lower the resistance? Unless you put a smaller resistor on top of the other?
The smaller ones or the big grey 100 boxes?
oh so maybe remove one and leave one?
haha, got ya
I will try it this evening!
Not the “grey 100 boxes” .
The small R100 resistors . You need to lower the resistance not increase it . Removing one resistor will increase resistance ( two 100mΩ resistors in parallel , total resistance 50mΩ )
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
yeah, I see them, I have some spare r100, laying around, from a scrapped skyray ok? But explain how can 2x r100 be 50? One would think 200? Please explain why it works like this?
Got the driver open, now it’s showtime, lets solder!
A simple search on google will help .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
got 6 r100’s, or could I start by adding one only per led?
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