Lumintop Tool Ti - Mods

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CRX
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Lumintop Tool Ti - Mods

Received my Lumintop Ti Tool yesterday, even cuter than i thought it would be Smile .
A very nice little light except it is designed for AAA use only so very underpowered for me.

The problem is the switch components, when a li-ion cell is installed the light is single mode only but the driver sequences through the three modes when not using the electronic switch so i decided to install a small forward clicky switch instead of the electronic switch to remedy this and also the excessive button presses to select high mode. It can also be locked out now.

I changed the switch button to a magnetic version and did the usual tar & feathering Wink

I also eventually changed the driver to a MTN FET11 which required boring out the brass joint piece at the head so the cell could fit through.

Max – 560lm

.

Lighted Tail Switch

Edited by: CRX on 08/21/2017 - 15:47
Nortson
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What did you use to make the knurling black?

jon_slider
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Thanks for the pics, Happy tinkering…

Lumintop Tool AAA Copper + Titanium measurements

maukka wrote:
The Ti seems very inefficient compared to the Copper. The problem lies in the driver or the titanium body, since the copper version works well with the electronic tailcap from the Ti.

Copper tool also is significantly more efficient at high. It produces 70 % more total lumen hours on high. On mid the difference is gone. Without a cooling fan the Ti overheats and starts flashing the output at 12 minutes. Copper works much better because of its higher mass and heat conductivity.
CRX
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Nortson wrote:
What did you use to make the knurling black?

Permanent ink in the knurling & jbweld in the grooves.

.

jon_slider wrote:
Thanks for the pics, Happy tinkering…

Lumintop Tool AAA Copper + Titanium measurements

maukka wrote:
The Ti seems very inefficient compared to the Copper. The problem lies in the driver or the titanium body, since the copper version works well with the electronic tailcap from the Ti.

Copper tool also is significantly more efficient at high. It produces 70 % more total lumen hours on high. On mid the difference is gone. Without a cooling fan the Ti overheats and starts flashing the output at 12 minutes. Copper works much better because of its higher mass and heat conductivity.

Thanks for the link, have you seen any tests with 10440 cells?

jon_slider
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CRX][quote=Nortson wrote:
Thanks for the link, have you seen any tests with 10440 cells?

if you are trying to determine lumens on LiIon:
this post claims about 300 lumens on the Aluminum version http://budgetlightforum.com/node/40283

here is a test of a similar light, with a similar high as the Tool w Nichia.. reports 226 lumens on LiIon (maukka actually measures lumens, not just a guess like the first link) http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44438

here is post with links about using LiIon in the TiTool

allterrain
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fantastic mod, could you tell me the size of the small forward clicky or where you purchased it.
Thanks

CRX
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I used this switch, says reverse now but I doubt that
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S023886.9_8mm-D-x-7mm-H-DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-5-pcs

Dutcheee
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Really amazing!

How is the parasitic drain?

I would love to attempt this mod, do you have a list of the parts and maybe a howto?
It’s a lot to ask, but my tool ti just died on me. And this beats my modded thrunite ti in every way possible. Best 10440 build I found around Thumbs Up

CRX
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The lighted tailcap version? Is very tricky to do and I don’t think the capacitor likes the 4.2v of the 10440 cell too much, not 100% reliable on the modes.

The FET driver/ forward clicky version is better.

Any idea how yours failed?

Dutcheee
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That would be great, but it does look very challenging. And reliability is very important too, thanks for the info.
Since guppydrv still seems to be the most versatile firmware for this size as far as I know, a MTN 11 DD driver would still be the best current option I guess with a clicky tail.
But can it support the lighted tailcap? Or is the extra tailLED the reason of the flakiness?
What firmware did you use?

A clicky switch of the normal tool will do, but I have no clue how to cramp in a lighted clicky switch in that one, with the MTN driver.
I currently edc a MTN DD modded thrunite ti head with alu tool body and clicky. To have a lighted tailcap would be great. And I prefer the looks of the tool ti.

I have no clue yet why it stopped working. Didn’t drop it and used a NIMH cell..
But i didn’t use it much because of the low output and U.I.

CRX
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The lighted tail version has the stock driver in it and only did single mode (high) on a 10440 but when I modded it with the tail LED it became 3 mode again, although a bit finicky so that obviously affected it.

The other one has a MTN 11 driver in the head with guppy, and the small forward clicky in the tail.
I think it could be possible to make a lighted version of this but would be very difficult to do with the limited space left by the switch.
I don’t know how the MTN driver would behave with a bleed resistor?
Never tried it.

drillbitz11
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I initially was was planning to use a MTN-11-DD in a brass Tool AAA with the eswitch. I hadn’t opened it up yet to look but now, seeing this thread….it looks as if the entire driver is in the tail. Is that true?

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drillbitz11 wrote:
brass Tool AAA with the eswitch

the pill with driver and LED star, unscrews from the head:

however, the drop tools are heavily glued, and I have broken the wires on several, trying to get the pill out:

in some cases it has helped to heat the head up, to soften the glue before uscrewing

drillbitz11
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Ok so that’s good so the board in the back is specific to the eswitch… I have the light engine out but I didn’t want to disconnect the driver from the leds until I knew, therefore I can’t see what’s on the other side of the board. Ok so I’m going to guess that it will be fine using a mtn-11dd driver with regular firmware since the eswitch is in the back with its own specific board and obviously cannot be connected to the driver in the usual way with these drivers {Soldered to the otc pads}. I’ll give it a shot like that and see if it works.. I find the eswitch/momentary stuff confusing when putting together these drivers.

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drillbitz11 wrote:
I’m going to guess that it will be fine using a mtn-11dd driver

I hope it works out
but, if you keep the eSwitch, it will be single mode only:

CRX wrote:
The problem is the switch components, when a li-ion cell is installed the light is single mode only
drillbitz11
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jon_slider wrote:
I hope it works out but, if you keep the eSwitch, it will be single mode only:

Ok I understand now, I built the driver today so I will put it aside for now and see about finding a clicky that will work with the stainless switch cover. The link for the switch CRX used is no longer working but I will see what the options are at kaidomain. Thanks for all your help Jon.

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I could be mistaken
I have not tried what you are doing

share what you learn
wish you success Smile

drillbitz11
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Thanks will do

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Great work CRX! I tried using the 12mm version of this driver in a Ti3 v2 but the heat unsoldered the micro-controller from the driver! I wasn’t able to repair it, so will probably buy a new one. How do you go about regulating heat and turbo outputs in a light that small? Also what firmware?

I have become one of the infected...

jon_slider
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NoDa775 wrote:
How do you go about regulating heat and turbo outputs in a light that small? Also what firmware?

did you try asking Mtn?
did you read this?:

Full thermal control

btw, if you dont build your own and want to buy a 10440 TiTool .. skylumen builds some nice ones