[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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clemence
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Does the VR16SP4 work with the new cree LED’s? I might need to grab one of those so I can test the new Cree LED’s.

Not a perfect match but should be more than enough due to its excellent thermal properties. I posted the simulated picture of XD16 on VR16SP4 somewhere. With VR16S1 it fits better with full pads coverage

- Clemence

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With E21A:

With XD16:

XD16 has bigger pads and wider gaps

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(dream) may be 219C sm4070e will be re-stocked… I will buy 3-5 pcs
I have receive and tested 219B sw45k – best universal LED, but for some application of night vision he is slightly “cold”… Wish an 4000-4200 CCT and magenta tint

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I can’t promise, seems it would be harder to get those sm4070e again. Those were only 100 pcs.

- Clemence

ma tumba
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Will be in for some, too.

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UPDATE 180122:
- NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 shipped from Japan today

- Clemence

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NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 has arrived

- Clemence

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WoW

I have to order again.

I have never seen 6500K R9080!

Sorry for my poor english.

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steel_1024 wrote:
WoW

I have to order again.

I have never seen 6500K R9080!


oh-oh, I’m in the same boat, ordered some. I have not even received the last order of 2000K E21A’s Facepalm

edit: I just tracked my last order (1 month ago) and it is still in Indonesia somewhere Sad (ordernr 10105)

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djozz wrote:
steel_1024 wrote:
WoW

I have to order again.

I have never seen 6500K R9080!


oh-oh, I’m in the same boat, ordered some. I have not even received the last order of 2000K E21A’s Facepalm

edit: I just tracked my last order (1 month ago) and it is still in Indonesia somewhere Sad (ordernr 10105)

Don’t trust the economy tracking number. It’s not always updated, must be already somewhere in NL.
I’ll check it for you later this afternoon.

- Clemence

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Click pictures to ENLARGE

I don’t use sunscreen in the workshop. It’s just something (I guess) widely available throughout Asia/Europe/US.

- Clemence

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- Clemence

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Nice work Clemence. Comparison photo with mixed CCT’s is great!

ma tumba
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Hey Clemence! How green are 5+K e21s in real life?

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Pavlo wrote:
Nice work Clemence. Comparison photo with mixed CCT’s is great!

You know what? I forgot the beamshots! Facepalm

————————-

ERTD wrote:
Clemence? Why don’t you deal with Skilhunt and custom made some H03 RC with your bin? Even their throwers are quite nice.

They have easy-modding (and affordable) hosts, you can find easily good drivers for the more demanding, or simply use their own electronics. Add your value to that, and sell some TRUE limited Deluxe Editions (forget AT Sick )

People like me don’t rush after stupid extra lumens, trying to show off that they can throw some greenish light to the moon. There is a real market for what you are doing.
When people get the opportunity to test high quality tints (and you have them), they will never return to low CRI . Especially talking about EDC/headlamps

Work with true outdoor people, not that bunch of potato couch who just know how to show-off online their useless stuff…

(Mine is more powerful than yours Facepalm etc…)

Small quantities, but high quality.

Cheers

Yup agree, now I just can’t stand low CRI anymore. I’ve been extremely picky for CRI and tints ever since.

Personally, AT has the looks and features I like. Efficiency and reliability are it’s biggest issue which I’m trying to fix. Without the latter, it’s by far one of the best at it’s price class. Skillhunt is easier to mod, I agree. But it lacks features and UI AT has.

Thanks for the suggestion, hopefully a manufacturer would able to help us for a special true tint snobs EDC/headlamps product line. I’m not interested in making a group buy of special edition stuff. I prefer a user mod-able EDC that will last for many years ahead while still has the robustness of sealed OEM. And that’s what I’ve been trying. Tried to contact Fenix but got no reply yet.

While I’m just like you, an outdoor guy who knows how 300 lumens high CRI is so much better than 1000 lumens green lantern, I’m also a scientist wannabe Glasses Glasses . I like to tinker and….I do play with unnecessary experiments. Without that idealism, I wouldn’t make those boards anyhow.
I say, let them play and experiments. Because that what makes BLF so fun.

————————-

ma tumba: wrote:
Hey Clemence! How green are 5+K e21s in real life?

Green? Not at all, unless there’s something wrong with my eyes. Even E21A sm505 D320 R70 (my guinea pig) is one of the best low CRI with just the right amount of slight pink. Jensen567 also confirmed this, he kept his R70 (he supposed to kill them! Flat Stare )
All those E21As are my collection’s best CRI and tints (well, I don’t really like the sw45k)

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:

Green? Not at all, unless there’s something wrong with my eyes. Even E21A sm505 D320 R70 (my guinea pig) is one of the best low CRI with just the right amount of slight pink. Jensen567 also confirmed this, he kept his R70 (he supposed to kill them! Flat Stare )
All those E21As are my collection’s best CRI and tints (well, I don’t really like the sw45k)

- Clemence


It is not that I see any green in the pics, my question was related to the color diagrams that you have on your site. It is great that in fact the tint is neutral.

Re the sw45k. Well, I got the 6x of them and installed one into one of my DQG Spies. And then I installed 3 (THREE) pieces of lee filters to get optimum result. These were
- main +1/2 green filter to remove the primary rosy tint
- wide ring made of -1/2 green filter
- narrow ring made of -1/2 green filter – these two remove the green rim, inherent to any nichia LEDs except (domeless) N083B in a mule configuration.
and a DC fix on top of these – to smooth out the radial color variations introduced by the rings

I invented this trick with lee rings when I had to mitigate tint shift in my e1e with Tana’s SingLED light engine. The shallow reflector of the e1e made the color of the hot spot really nasty, for it collected that greenish peripheral part of the original beam.

On the other hand, domed nichias are quite good in triples when their gree periphery does not affect the resulting beam. So 3 best of the remaining 5 will go to some triple. I really appreciate the way these sw45k bring up the reds at low lumen settings

I am really and I mean realy looking forward to getting those domeless E21 LEDs

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Which combination is your favorite?

clemence wrote:

!{width:100%}https://farm5.staticflick) r.com/4611/39207340664_b371a0d18f_o.jpg!

- Clemence

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g_damian wrote:
Which combination is your favorite?

For work I still fav 5600-5700K. Outdoor 3500K. General purpose 5000K
But this new 6500K R9080 is so amazingly clean, whites are brilliant while the rest of the colors pops. Perhaps I can tolerate this one for my office space. Never liked anything above 5700K before.

- Clemence

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OK guys, here’s the beamshots:
I used Texas_Ace’s order for showing purpose here. I’m sure he doesn’t mind Big Smile

With the new VR16SP4 board, cleaning the flux residue has never been easier.

Using commonly available 20mm TIR optic for Cree XML, the footprint loosely fits the holder. Although it works OK, for extreme power application this holder base has to be removed (unless you can carefully lower it down to slightly below the phosphor height). With faceted optic like this slight off focus won’t be too noticeable but the most important thing is to prevent the opaque holder from getting burnt. At 4A and beyond the side spill was hot enough to burn the neighboring LEDs (in previous gapless prototype).

Texas_Ace’s favourite CCT: 4500K. The combination of sm403 and sm503 should be close enough for his taste.


Control shot: Cloudy morning in Bali
15cm from the wall. If there’s any artifacts or weird beam shape, it should be obvious at this distance

Driven at 1,4A


Vertical direction

- Clemence

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ERTD wrote:
So, this quad should easily fit the H03 TIR reflector (?)

Yes it will fit most 20mm based TIR optics. But to get the most OTF lumens, the optics’s aperture should be 7mm (the diagonal of 4,8mm x 4,8mm is ~6,7mm).
Any optics with 6mm will work OK since the dies in this quadtrix setup don’t extend all the way to the edges. The losses would be minimal since E21A has narrower emission angle than Nichia 144Ax or Cree XHP50, thanks to the reflective side barrier.

Light Blue = Cool white E21A
Orange = Warm white E21A
Red = 219C
Blue = 144AM/R

- Clemence

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I can’t wait to try out those LED’s, I have an optic very close to the one you are showing with the dimpled surface that I plan to use. Although it doesn’t use the white base, so it should not have any issues with burning. Although I might have to glue it in place to keep it from damaging the LED’s.

I wish I could find some optics with that dimpled surface but with a 20-30 degree beam angle, right now the best I have with those dimples are 60 degrees. The dimples work fantastic at mixing the tints in my experience.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I can’t wait to try out those LED’s, I have an optic very close to the one you are showing with the dimpled surface that I plan to use. Although it doesn’t use the white base, so it should not have any issues with burning. Although I might have to glue it in place to keep it from damaging the LED’s.

I wish I could find some optics with that dimpled surface but with a 20-30 degree beam angle, right now the best I have with those dimples are 60 degrees. The dimples work fantastic at mixing the tints in my experience.

Bought this, they’re on the way.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-High-power-LED-Lens-CREE-XML-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-20mm-60-degrees/728091430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.MYJ5co

Not optimal but a little aperture widening should works.

- Clemence

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Do you think that mixing sm303, sm403, sm503, sm653 on VR16SP4 would be nice? I’d like to have something between 4000K and 5000K. Maybe 2*sm403, 2*sm503 is better idea?

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clemence wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I can’t wait to try out those LED’s, I have an optic very close to the one you are showing with the dimpled surface that I plan to use. Although it doesn’t use the white base, so it should not have any issues with burning. Although I might have to glue it in place to keep it from damaging the LED’s.

I wish I could find some optics with that dimpled surface but with a 20-30 degree beam angle, right now the best I have with those dimples are 60 degrees. The dimples work fantastic at mixing the tints in my experience.

Bought this, they’re on the way.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-High-power-LED-Lens-CREE-XML-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-20mm-60-degrees/728091430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.MYJ5co

Not optimal but a little aperture widening should works.

- Clemence

Thanks for the heads up, that is what my 60 degree looks like now and it is really nice, just a little too floody for my tastes. If the 20 degree has the dimpmes that should be perfect, even the 38 degree would work.

I am thinking about using this with an XHP50.2 90CRI in my new EDC, or maybe one of the nicha 6V emitters if they are give enough output with these new mcpcb’s. I forgot about that actually, PM inbound.

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g_damian wrote:
Do you think that mixing sm303, sm403, sm503, sm653 on VR16SP4 would be nice? I’d like to have something between 4000K and 5000K. Maybe 2*sm403, 2*sm503 is better idea?

Please scroll up Damian, those example were 2xsm403 + 2xsm503

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clemence wrote:
g_damian wrote:
Do you think that mixing sm303, sm403, sm503, sm653 on VR16SP4 would be nice? I’d like to have something between 4000K and 5000K. Maybe 2*sm403, 2*sm503 is better idea?

Please scroll up Damian, those example were 2xsm403 + 2xsm503

I’ve seen that, but no 1*sm303 + 1*sm403 + 1*sm503 + 1*sm653 configuration Smile

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g_damian wrote:
clemence wrote:
g_damian wrote:
Do you think that mixing sm303, sm403, sm503, sm653 on VR16SP4 would be nice? I’d like to have something between 4000K and 5000K. Maybe 2*sm403, 2*sm503 is better idea?

Please scroll up Damian, those example were 2xsm403 + 2xsm503

I’ve seen that, but no 1*sm303 + 1*sm403 + 1*sm503 + 1*sm653 configuration Smile

Facepalm how could I see only 403 and 503 in your post? Anyway, CCT mixing can be predicted by simple mathematics. But you have to put output into the equation too. In an ideal case where all the emitters have exactly the same output and forward voltage, the resulting CCT would be very close to the average number. But unfortunately in your combo, each have different output. Sm303(D200), sm403(D200), sm503(D220), sm653(D240). Average them first then use the 200:200:220:240 ratio to approximate the resulting CCT

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
g_damian wrote:
clemence wrote:
g_damian wrote:
Do you think that mixing sm303, sm403, sm503, sm653 on VR16SP4 would be nice? I’d like to have something between 4000K and 5000K. Maybe 2*sm403, 2*sm503 is better idea?

Please scroll up Damian, those example were 2xsm403 + 2xsm503

I’ve seen that, but no 1*sm303 + 1*sm403 + 1*sm503 + 1*sm653 configuration Smile

Facepalm how could I see only 403 and 503 in your post? Anyway, CCT mixing can be predicted by simple mathematics. But you have to put output into the equation too. In an ideal case where all the emitters have exactly the same output and forward voltage, the resulting CCT would be very close to the average number. But unfortunately in your combo, each have different output. Sm303(D200), sm403(D200), sm503(D220), sm653(D240). Average them first then use the 200:200:220:240 ratio to approximate the resulting CCT

- Clemence

Thank you. So 3000*200/860+4000*200/860+5000*220/860+6500*240/860=4721K. Ideal Smile Order 10146 Wink

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Hi Damian,

Please specify the configuration as well. Use the LED config diagram in the product image
For example:
-LED1=303
-LED2=653
-LED3=403
-LED4=503

Wiring:
3V/6V/9V/12V

Thanks,
Clemence

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clemence wrote:
Hi Damian,

Please specify the configuration as well. Use the LED config diagram in the product image
For example:
-LED1=303
-LED2=653
-LED3=403
-LED4=503

Wiring:
3V/6V/9V/12V

Thanks,
Clemence

Wiring would be 3V for both boards. About the led config… I don’t know, your example looks good enough. For the second – all 503. Thanks.

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