18650 TrustFire Flames 2400 mAh Battery Test

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benckie
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The new trustfire flames got here yesterday 3.84v and 3.82v on opening the packet, discharged them to 3v and let the rest then charged at 0.5 amp the first one took just over 2500 mAh. The second one is charging now and when I get home from work I'll post up the data sheet's and the IR of the batteries, but sofar they are looking good and are performing well.

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benckie wrote:

The new trustfire flames got here yesterday

Are this trustfire of manafont or buyincoins?

Light up the darkness.

benckie
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I will not give buyincoins any more money all the batteries I've tested on this thread are from Manafont !

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The ones I got from buyincoins all seem to work just as good as those from DX or Manafont. 

benckie
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Ilikeflasklights have you tested the mAh or it's a guess, cause the ones I've tested  from there are under performers.

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The new Trustfire Flames mAh test

Discharged to 3 volt and charged @ 0.5 amp

Cell A (Internal resistance 184 milliohms)

Cell B (i for got to save the data sheet) Internal resistance 175 milliohms

 

End voltage is a bit low as its sat on the charger all day waiting for me to come home from work, basicly these perform a bit better then my used and abused old trustfire flames that still perform well.

People will recomend other batteries or the same batteries from other sellers with out testing the mAh or with out even knowing if they are protected or not.

Ive tryed to be honest and show as much proof these take there claimed mAh and work well in multi cell lights but its up to you guys to make up your own mind with the infomation ive provided to try and help people out.....

More testing to come

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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No I don't have a charger that will test mah.  I haven't noticed any of my Trustfire flames to be bad.  They all seem to perform well in all my lights.  I have bought them from 3 different places.  I charge my batteries on mostly Xtar chargers and then check the voltage.  Most will charge back to 4.13 volts.

benckie
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well two of the places you mentioned DX and buyincoins i have tested bad TFF batteries, Manafont sofar for me in the only place ive tested good ones that test close to or above the claimed mAh even when used and i have mentioned there up sides, down sides and there IR, it's all here for you to see.

i too have used the same charger as you WP2 2 i brought it for my old man as a gift i tested it for 2 days straight before giving it to him, you can not realy tell a average cell from a good cell due to the way it charges ramping down and it will under charger all batteries (better then over charging).

ive see people recomend batteries on here and not even notice they are not protected or under perform, but i say buy what you can afford from where you want, just in my expernice i have had no luck with DX TFF and no luck at all with any type of battery and a couple of crapy torches from buyincoins.

since i have some very basic equipment to test the batteries i thought i would make a post about it as ive seen the TFF get a hammering latley and not just quess and say yeah they are good, i have spent well over 60 hours doing these test on this thread and if it helps one person to decide to buy or not to buy these batteries with the infomation on this thread its been worth it.

 

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And you done a great job.  I'm sure some of the ones I got may be in fact worse than some of the better ones.  But all seem to perform well for runtimes in my lights I have put them in so far. 

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thanks for the kind words.

sofar these ones ive tested (new ones) are out performing the xtar,s and are on par with the solarforce V2 batteries for tail cap readings but cheaper Tongue Out i have some hi-max's, redilast and panisonic's coming for some more comparisons.

i will do some tail cap readings and some more comparisons soon as its hard to find the time right now flat out working 6 days a week and playing the family man and trying to keep up my hobbies im burnt out.

so this thread is not complete yet but i think ive tested enough TFF batteries for now.

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Hey your welcome.  That's good to hear.  I know old4570 sings high praises for the Hi-Max 18650 2600MAH.  That's why I have bought some.  I got about 8 or 10 so far.  I'm still buying them.  I get them for $13.00 a pair. 

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I only got two hi-max,s in the mail to test first, ill test them as soon as they get here and post my results im hoping to get around 2400 mAh like most other reports, they cost me about $16 USD a pair shipped to Australia.

The redilast 2600 mAh should be here early next week, i didnt go with the 2900 or above as i thoguth they had more usible voltage to me, they where $34.50 USD a pair shipped to Australia, shipping from the USA to AU is slow.

I have got a pair of protected panisonic 3100 mAh coming but i dont think i will be able to use all the voltage with them since they have a 2.5v cut off so all the mAh will not be usible imo, but ill give them a go, they should be here in a couple of weeks, they cost me $30 USD a pair shipped to Australia.

The solaforce 2400 mAh V2's im charging now cost $16 a pair shipped to Australia im not to sure if i should make a seperate thread for the hi-max, solarforce, redilast and panisonic batteries ?

As the batteries get here i will compare tail cap readings with the trustfire flames ive been testing to complete the testing of the flames.

Shame a single slow dishcarge and slow charge takes around 11 + hours per battery Undecided i perfer to balance charger 6 batteries at a time, so i can perfectly charge 6 in the time it takes to charge one, this testing is sucking alot of time and my charger has been getting a good work out.

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Tail Cap Current Draw Comparisons

 

Test 1 Ultrafire Cree T6 3-Mode Memory LED Drop-in Module

solarforce 2400 mAh (A) 1.67 amps

solarforce 2400 mAh (B) 1.67 amps

Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (A) 1.23 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)

Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (B) 0.7 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)

Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (A) 1.51 amps

Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (B) 1.50 amps

Redilast 2600 mAh (A) 1.70 amps

Redilast 2600 mAh (B) 1.71 amps

Hi-max 2600 mAh (A) 1.44 amps

Hi-max 2600 mAh (B) 1.45 amps

Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.69 amps

Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.72 amps

 

Test 2 TrustFire TR-3T6 Triple XM-L T6 5-Modes Memory LED Flashlight (3x18650)

tested with 2 x 18650,s

solarforce 2400 mAh  2.46 amps

Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh 2.51 amps

Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh 0.00 amps as they just tripped on high.

Redilast 2600 mAh 2.5 amps

Hi-max 2600 mAh 2.51 amps

Panasonic NCR18650A  2.38 amps

 

Test 3 TR-1200

tested with 2 x 18650,s

solarforce 2400 mAh  1.66 amps

Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh 1.72 amps

Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (A) 0.00 amps as they just tripped on high

Redilast 2600 mAh 1.74 amps

Hi-max 2600 mAh  1.81 amps

Panasonic NCR18650A  1.61 amps

I can not recommend the ultrafire grey's from buyincoins as only 2 out of 4 worked they only take around 900 mAh, one was reading 1 volt when put under load and with the plastic cover removed they looked like they had spot weld marks on them so i asume they are recycled laptop batteries.

So i give the flames the thumb up sofar for best bang for buck and it looks like my drop-in,s and my C8 are under driven even though the Trustfire C8 has the same driver as the KD C8 from the factory.

I will update the current draw tests and the new batteries ive ordered come in and i will swap a driver out for some thing with some more grunt to do some higher amp testing, hope this helps.

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I think you really need some different leads for your DMM (or a different DMM). No way all three have that low of a draw. Those p60s should definitely be 3A+.

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The current draw was check with two DMM's a Fluke and a cheapie they both are with in 0.01 of each other, i do not believe in changing DMM leads to give fase high readings (just my opinion).

The trustfire C8 has a 2 amp driver in it the same as the KD C8 and ive just swaped the driver in the Trustfire C8 to another 2 amp driver and im getting 1.97 amp,s at the tail cap Wink every thing else test out on par.

The drop-ins and the C8 (before driver change) are putting out around 500 OTF lumens there is not 3 + amps hiding in there drivers, they are under driven and if you check early pictures of the P60 drop-ins the drivers have changed. 

Im still buying more of these drop-ins as they have a nice tint and only 3 modes (H,M,L) 1.5 amps is enough there is not much more throw if you double the amps just a brighter hot spot IMO and the drop-ins get way to bloody hot running 3 amps or more as at 1.5 amps they get hot enough.

The drivers have to be faulty and going into direct drive to get more then 3 amps IMO from 3 amps to 5 amps an XM-L does not make much more light at all it just makes a lot more heat.

 

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I have rechecked the internal resistance of new Trustfire flames i tested in post number 75 of this thread on another battery holder from post number 11 on this thread without the rare earth magnets and im getting aprox 50 milliohms less.

So i think i was right the rare earth magnets are giving me higher internal resistance readings, you could say some/most of my readings are 20 to 80 milliohms higher then the tested batteries realy are.

Also the IC,s (pcb protection) have a TR part number on them, like some of the trustfire drivers and torches.

As an example of the diffrence in milliohms, i tested my new solarforce 2400 mAh batteries with the rare earth magnets on the set up i posted on post number 67 my solarforce batteries read 140 to 160 milliohms but if i use the battery holder from post number 11 on this thread i get readings a hair under 100 milliohms.

I thought i would mention this as so people could take this into account and the lower the internal resistance the better, it makes the Trustfire flames batteries look even better.

Re-tested of the internal resistance of the new trustfire flames from post # 75

Cell A 137 milliohms

Cell B 112 milliohms

for all other internal resistance test i will use the battery holder from post number 11 ok.

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Picked-up 4 TF 2400 mah protected from DD for just over 14 bucks delivered, with xmas discount.

Going to give them/charger/FryRay 818 to my elderly dad for the holidays.

Hope they are up to the task.  The 818 pulls just over 1.75 amps on high, so it is one neutered, purple output fuster-cluck from MF.  Luckily, the low output will work in the batteries' favor.  He should be thrilled with the light.Laughing

I ordered a TF-1200 Q5X5, to replace it.

I hope it fares better than the FryRay junk I've purchased from MF!Laughing

 

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r1derbiker have you not read all the crap about DD with there fake flames and sending out unportected batteries when you order protected ? not all flames are equal here is the linik for you.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/5145

Why do you think i bothered with this thread, there is to many fake or junk flames being sold giving the good ones a bad rep. Some times cheaper is not always better.

The genuine TR-1200 is a great light but there is some fakes been offered cheap that are unregulated and have plastic lens with only 2 x 18650 battery tubes.

The geniune TR-3T6 is a much better light then the Fry ray 818

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Didn't see that, Benckie.  Uh-oh.

The tr-1200 I ordered has the extension for 3 batteries, and a glass lens.  I should be OK there.

I'll know quickly about the batteries.  Have several hobby chargers from flying RC for years.

I don't do business with MF any more, after getting screwed with their customer service on a 3800 and 818.

It does seem that with most all vendors we deal with on BLF; buyer beware!

 

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Yes pick and choose products carefully that have been tryed and tested with replacement parts if you can, a seller is only as good as there supplier.

I personally like manafontand Jim has looked after me but I'm fussy with what I order. I would order from manafont before I will order from DX, DD, Focal point and so on, I don't order any thing electrical from eBay that is flashlight related cause I've been screwed more times then I've won.

The reasons for reviews and me doing 70 + hours of dishcaharge and charging is to show people what is ok and not ok to order as there is alot of yeah this is good and cheap but they turn out to be fake some times or the sellers are painful with incorrect orders and most people with out hobby chargers would not even know if a battery is ok or not.

Every one here wants to save money and get the best bang for there bucks but my short time on here I see the same people suggesting the same sites or untested products, people can say that about me and that's fine, but I see so many fellow torch freaks getting caught out.

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong or over thinking it as some times the deals are great and some times they are not, people talk about china being a lucky dip and this can be true, I might be crazy thinking it does not have to be this way and we don't need to spend big $$, maybe peoples expectations are to high from this cheap stuff and it's cheap for a reason.

So buy what you want from we're you want just becareful and never spend any more then your willing to loose on the net, that's the way I look at it.

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a link to my redilast 2600 mAh battery test.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/5854

a link to my solarforce 2400 mAh nattery test

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/5771

a link to my hi-max 2600 mAh battery test.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/5919

benckie
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3 amp discharge test from fully charged (these are the new cells from post number 75, not the used cells i was testing before post number 75)

Cell A

Cell B

These performed well for bang VS buck

Thats the proof i need to say they are good for single cell lights aswell as multi cell lights

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very nice job ty

you are testing also your iCharger right? xD

benckie
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My Icharge 106B+ has had the firmware updated and has been calibrated by me and i check it now and then so its pretty spot on. ive had it for about 12 months or so, I use it to charge my remote controll li-po batteries for my truck, xbox 360 controller batteries, batteries for my daughters kid toy,s and digital camera batteries plus my torch batteries (mainly 18650,s).

It has proven to be a good reliable charger, it has payed for its self and it gets used every couple of days and some times its left on charging or discharging for a couple of days at a time, doing these Trustfire Flame 2400 mAh battery test,s i had it running none stop for 4 days over the long weekend.

The P350 power supply has been very good as well it has not skipped a beat in the same amout of time ive had the charger, its a bit of an over kill 15 volt 23 amps or 350 watt power supply as my charger is only 10 amps or 250 watt charge and 7 amps or 20 watt discharge, but it give,s me room to upgrade later on down the track and i use it for other things aswell.

You dont need such a big power supply for the Icharger 106B+ it will run off a 12v car battery or a 6 amp 15 to 18 volt power supply like a laptop power supply (minium 6 amps) or a computer power supply if you know what your doing, the higher the voltage the more efficient the charger is, 18 volt max.

I think the amount of use my charger gets and the time its left on charging or discharging i would of killed a few laptop 6 amp power supply,s by now, im glad i got the P350 power supply and for the record you must keep an eye on all chargers and batteries while being charged or discharged !

If your intrested here is a post about other uses for hobby chargers like the Icharger

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1767

And one about balance charging li-on batteries like 18650,s

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3490

 

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Benckie,

As I said in the other thread I scored some of the TF batts against my principles from MF and just included them in with other stuff I was after from them.

Have read the above here and like you say for the money it's a good deal, what I want to do with them is 2s in parallel with xm-l using a 2a driver at 4.2v.

I'll do a post of my findings of them and it might help with info on MF supply consistency.

One thing I'm concerned with is the cut-off protection regulation on them though which appears iffy? Can you confirm.

I use Multiplex chargers.

For anyone interested in PSU supply a simple ATX computer type needs no wiring or resistor mods for voltage increase etc.  Just use the double socket 12v output cable supply fitted to them. Cheapest most reliable switched PSU choice.

I've modded many a PSU and the ATX type has the ability to hold voltage and  doesn't need anything doing for the lower wattage hobby chargers you are using and cost's peanuts on the bay.

M.

 

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ANL, I've got 8 supplies in use (4 in parallel, for some high current testing), all salvaged from computers over the years.  They work dandily, for my +5 and + 12 volt needs.  Just switch (connect) the green to ground on the 20 or 24 pin plug, and you have 12 on yellow leads, and 5 on red leads volts.

Good tip.

 

benckie
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ANTI-NOWHERE-LEAGUE wrote:

Benckie,

As I said in the other thread I scored some of the TF batts against my principles from MF and just included them in with other stuff I was after from them.

Have read the above here and like you say for the money it's a good deal, what I want to do with them is 2s in parallel with xm-l using a 2a driver at 4.2v.

I'll do a post of my findings of them and it might help with info on MF supply consistency.

One thing I'm concerned with is the cut-off protection regulation on them though which appears iffy? Can you confirm. 

I has a couple that didnt work well with the cut off but i crushed them in my TR-1200 all the rest have been fine including the new ones i tested they are no worse then solarforce, hi-max, redilast, the trustfire flames will go down to 2.75 volt.

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benckie wrote:

ANTI-NOWHERE-LEAGUE wrote:

Benckie,

As I said in the other thread I scored some of the TF batts against my principles from MF and just included them in with other stuff I was after from them.

Have read the above here and like you say for the money it's a good deal, what I want to do with them is 2s in parallel with xm-l using a 2a driver at 4.2v.

I'll do a post of my findings of them and it might help with info on MF supply consistency.

One thing I'm concerned with is the cut-off protection regulation on them though which appears iffy? Can you confirm. 

I has a couple that didnt work well with the cut off but i crushed them in my TR-1200 all the rest have been fine including the new ones i tested they are no worse then solarforce, hi-max, redilast, the trustfire flames will go down to 2.75 volt.

Coooooool.

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r1derbike wrote:

ANL, I've got 8 supplies in use (4 in parallel, for some high current testing), all salvaged from computers over the years.  They work dandily, for my +5 and + 12 volt needs.  Just switch (connect) the green to ground on the 20 or 24 pin plug, and you have 12 on yellow leads, and 5 on red leads volts.

Good tip.

 

 

Yeah, 

For heavy current/wattage chargers I use Rack Server PSU's but an ATX 3-500W (£7 or so delivered or 'free' if hustled locally s/h) is good to go with smaller hobby stuff and the +5v red to black earth is used on them for R/C rx bench running, 3.3v handy for led testing/power on indication etc.

A 5A wall plug switching psu is fine too on 50w ones.

 

 

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Almost forgot! The 4 in parallel are identical supplies, to keep things balanced.

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