Test/review of LiitoKala INR26650-50A 5000mAh (Cyan)

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rizky_p
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thanks i was about to ask this exact question. Will order a couple Liitokala 26650 soon for my L6

DB Custom wrote:
Just tested between my blue and black LiitoKala 26650’s in a modified Convoy L6 (FET driver, XHP-70.2)….

Blue showed me 16.48A and did 9,108 in the light box
Black showed me 18.16A and did 9,280.5 in the light box.

192 lumens more at the sacrifice of 1.68A more draw, seems odd, but I’ve seen it where it flips, the one that has highest current doesn’t necessarily produce the most lumens.

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Barkuti wrote:

shadockan, remembered me of this clip which appeared in the World’s Craziest Fools Mr T show:


 



 


What do you mean with losses?


You can use a rolled up piece of wire, desoldering wick, etc. instead of a neodymium magnet, just some sort of solderable piece of lump.


The melting point of Sn50Pb32Sn18 is just below boiling water, and it takes just ≈1s for this to be done. So it’s 0K: 0 Kills.


 


Amateur, I build with my friend some bike packs.
Welds should be in such a way that there is as little loss as possible.

Nothing special of course, but now I have seen a problem with the BMS and the Volts cut off.

I’m generally looking for the problem ……….

Thank you .

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Newlumen wrote:
Me too. I received the 4 black 26650.. took 24 days.. i am happy with it.. now I am waiting for the series connector.. I am planning to use it on

Liitokala in convoy l6 mod.
Shockli 5500 mAh in trustfire tr j20 mod..

Hi Newlumen

Good weekend .Now shockli 26650 5500mah have button top.it

is good contact for series .

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I will keep in mind.. I bought 26650 series connector already.. in the future, I will purchase that button top.

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shadockan, I never said I was into assembling packs profesionally. Doing it with this solder and technique can be relatively fast, yet I believe this is more adequate for custom builds and high current, as I can use and solder very big wires with ease.

 

 

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I don’t have a solder machine..

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Shockli-Simon wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Me too. I received the 4 black 26650.. took 24 days.. i am happy with it.. now I am waiting for the series connector.. I am planning to use it on

Liitokala in convoy l6 mod.
Shockli 5500 mAh in trustfire tr j20 mod..

Hi Newlumen

Good weekend .Now shockli 26650 5500mah have button top.it

is good contact for series .

!http://image.ibb.co/cvOaKv/shockli26650_2.jpg!

How much do the Shockli’s cost?

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Shockli flat top cost $8.49 each from the US sellers.. about $4 shipping too…

By the way, I am getting worried my 26660/18650 series connector.. it has been 26 days since they shipped…

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Newlumen wrote:
I don’t have a solder machine..

This is an easily fixed problem. Wink

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Newlumen wrote:
Shockli flat top cost $8.49 each from the US sellers.. about $4 shipping too…

By the way, I am getting worried my 26660/18650 series connector.. it has been 26 days since they shipped…

I’ll just stick with the LiitoKala’s then… much cheaper & real good. Wink

I tried my best to send you some of those connectors so you would have them when you needed them. Facepalm
But no ship to address was I given. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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gleamer
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Good day BLFers. Currently I have 2 26650 protected cells for my stock L6. I need 2 more. Can I use non protected 26650 cells? The black Liitokala seems good price, but not protected. Will my stock L6 circuitry can function as protector? Noob question. Thanks Innocent

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gleamer wrote:
Good day BLFers. Currently I have 2 26650 protected cells for my stock L6. I need 2 more. Can I use non protected 26650 cells? The black Liitokala seems good price, but not protected. Will my stock L6 circuitry can function as protector? Noob question. Thanks Innocent

Sure you can use unprotected. You’ll actually get a little more output from them due to the lower internal resistance.

If they are flat tops you’ll need to add solder blobs to them.

The stock driver let’s you know when the battery voltage is getting low, but I don’t remember the details of what it does.

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gleamer
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Thanks Jason Smile

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@ gleamer

If you go with the Littokala cells, check them when you get them to see if they will work in series. You might get lucky.

Even though they are flat tops & not designed to work in series….. about half of them will.

I have 18 of them & best I remember 10 of them will work in series.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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I think it’s best to add the solder blob just to increase their total length. With my solder blobbed Liitokalas the springs on each end only compress a little. If I give the light a small bump on the front bezel (making the batteries slide forward) it will cut power for a second. I’m talking about a very slight bump.

So I may make the blobs a big taller or else make a spacer. I need a flat plastic disc (about the size of a poker chip) and maybe a copper or brass cylinder about 10mm diameter and maybe 5mm thick. I’d cut a hole in the plastic disc and press the metal piece inside. The plastic piece will hold the metal center in place and prevent it from touching the walls. It seems pretty easy, but I haven’t done it yet.

The extra tension might even boost the power just a little. Who knows? Lol

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Yeah possibly if you have that problem.

But the LittoKala’s I have that do work in series work just fine without boobs. Jarring does not cause any disconnect or disruption of power.

Your spacer sounds good. But if you don’t want to take time to reinvent the wheel you can try one of these. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Slayer1 wrote:
teacher wrote:
@ gleamer

If you go with the Littokala cells, check them when you get them to see if they will work in series. You might get lucky.

Even though they are flat tops & not designed to work in series….. about half of them will.

I have 18 of them & best I remember 10 of them will work in series.

teacher,

How do I do the checks to see if the batteries will work in series?
I have a few Liitokala’s and would appreciate your guidance.

Slayer 1….. I just put them in the light and see if they work. Change them around from front to back position because there is no rhyme or reason to it.
Of the 18 I have, 10 of them will work in series just fine. I mark the ones that do so I do not have to check each time.
I wish I had something super scientific to tell you… but it is just trial & error. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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teacher wrote:
Slayer1 wrote:
teacher wrote:
@ gleamer

If you go with the Littokala cells, check them when you get them to see if they will work in series. You might get lucky.

Even though they are flat tops & not designed to work in series….. about half of them will.

I have 18 of them & best I remember 10 of them will work in series.

teacher,

How do I do the checks to see if the batteries will work in series?
I have a few Liitokala’s and would appreciate your guidance.

Slayer 1….. I just put them in the light and see if they work. Change them around from front to back position because there is no rhyme or reason to it.
Of the 18 I have, 10 of them will work in series just fine. I mark the ones that do so I do not have to check each time.
I wish I had something super scientific to tell you… but it is just trial & error. Smile

teacher, thank you for the explanation. I had the same understanding but wanted to know if there was a better way to it.

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teacher wrote:

Your spacer sounds good. But if you don’t want to take time to reinvent the wheel you can try one of these. Wink


I don’t like those. I’d probably melt those little springs.

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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:

Your spacer sounds good. But if you don’t want to take time to reinvent the wheel you can try one of these. Wink


I don’t like those. I’d probably melt those little springs.

Hey Jason, my series connector has not arrived yet. Can you direct me which cheap solder machine I should buy? So I can learn how to solder blop. Thanks.

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I used the velleman vtss5u $26 from Frys for years. It’s a decent low cost unit. The 3 o’clock knob position is for small stuff and all the way to 5 o’clock is for bigger things like heavy wire and adding solder blobs to batteries.

I recently upgraded to a 995d soldering station. $85 on Amazon plus a 4 year warranty for $8 more. I don’t know if you want to spend that kind of money.

You’ll need 60/40 rosin core soldering wire. I got 2 small tubes of .032 diameter for $10 on ebay.

Flux is the key to good soldering. I would get a flux pen SRA #312 $8 on amazon. A dab of this on every connection before soldering makes for great results.

Keeping the tip of the iron clean is also important. Damp sponges can pull too much heat out, I like those brass shaving types of tip cleaners. I got mine for about $8.

This style of “helping hands” is also good to have. I use it a lot. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Magnifier-Helping-Hand-Glass-Magnifying-Hobby...

I also tend to use a Boruit headlight $9 to help me see what I’m doing.

Then the best thing is to watch YouTube videos on soldering to get a feel for it. Then practice yourself. It takes a little practice to get good. This guy https://www.youtube.com/user/rossmanngroup has a lot of videos using a microscope to show his soldering. He uses a thick flux paste, unlike the pen I recommended earlier, but the concept is the same.

So for around $50 to $60, you can solder like a pro, almost. Lol

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:

Your spacer sounds good. But if you don’t want to take time to reinvent the wheel you can try one of these. Wink

I don’t like those. I’d probably melt those little springs.
I understand. To each his own.
I love these things and haven’t melted one yet.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Newlumen wrote:

Hey Jason, my series connector has not arrived yet.
NL… PM me your address & I’ll send you a couple if you wish. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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Newlumen
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JasonWW wrote:
I used the velleman vtss5u $26 from Frys for years. It’s a decent low cost unit. The 3 o’clock knob position is for small stuff and all the way to 5 o’clock is for bigger things like heavy wire and adding solder blobs to batteries.

I recently upgraded to a 995d soldering station. $85 on Amazon plus a 4 year warranty for $8 more. I don’t know if you want to spend that kind of money.

You’ll need 60/40 rosin core soldering wire. I got 2 small tubes of .032 diameter for $10 on ebay.

Flux is the key to good soldering. I would get a flux pen SRA #312 $8 on amazon. A dab of this on every connection before soldering makes for great results.

Keeping the tip of the iron clean is also important. Damp sponges can pull too much heat out, I like those brass shaving types of tip cleaners. I got mine for about $8.

This style of “helping hands” is also good to have. I use it a lot. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Magnifier-Helping-Hand-Glass-Magnifying-Hobby...

I also tend to use a Boruit headlight $9 to help me see what I’m doing.

Then the best thing is to watch YouTube videos on soldering to get a feel for it. Then practice yourself. It takes a little practice to get good. This guy https://www.youtube.com/user/rossmanngroup has a lot of videos using a microscope to show his soldering. He uses a thick flux paste, unlike the pen I recommended earlier, but the concept is the same.

So for around $50 to $60, you can solder like a pro, almost. Lol

Ofcourse I want to learn how to solder blop.. so I can save money by buying flat top..

robk
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Just got my first new black LittoKala 26650; very pleased. Charged to 4.19 then discharged to 3.03 and my VC2 showed exactly 5500 mah charge current back up to 4.19. Nice.

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Sounds good robk….. Thumbs Up … Thanks for sharing the info…. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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