2100 gets in the 3000,s with 1 amp discharge to 2.6 volt on the NCR18650A
2100 wrote:
One thing I have noticed (and beginning to quote also when giving numbers) is that while it is 2.6V on the charger, if i manage to catch hold of that moment when it dips to 2.6V and terminates, is that my DMM shows like 2.80V plus. I'll take it as 2.8V.
So im not sure if that is 2.6v or 2.8 volt it must be 2.6v for those numbers on the 3100 test ?
HJK gets 2125 mAh out of a redilast 2600 mAh at 5 amp to 2.8 volt i get 2426 mAh down to 2.75 volt.
Different battery batches (whether it is 2 years ago or 1 year ago) also makes a small diff i guess. These cells are most probably what some would call "surpluses". It depends on the age of such surpluses or batches.
I thought it did well once it leveled out, I asked my daughter to stay away from the battery while it was discharging, she asked me are we going to pop it dad lolls it did get bloody hot but did well.
Charged the batteries yesterday let the batteries rest over night then today discharged. (remember all my test since post number 85 have been with the protection PCB,s removed)
Cell Adischarged from 4.15 volt to 2.5 volt at 0.5 amps
In your first test with the PCB and 0.5A discharge, the cell was charged to 4.2V. This one is starting from 4.15V, so theoretically the 3100mAh should have been achieved if the cell was charged to 4.2V But for those charging to 4.15V is a good reference point.
Looks like we have some good cells with POS PCB's! The protected are useless for most of us unless running them in parallel or in a low draw/high capacity uses.
If you can get these cells with a kallie's pcb you will own the market!
In your first test with the PCB and 0.5A discharge, the cell was charged to 4.2V. This one is starting from 4.15V, so theoretically the 3100mAh should have been achieved if the cell was charged to 4.2V But for those charging to 4.15V is a good reference point.
To be honest with these cell after being rested from a full charger the voltage is around 4.18, the rested voltage of this cell was 4.159 after being rested, it might of droped 0.021 volt or so for sitting on the charger to long, before i removed it.
It would be a good test for people say using xtar chargers like the one i test a little while back they seam to cut out around 4.15 volt, better then over charging and the cells would last bit longer, but from 4.18 or 4.20 they would hit 3100 mAh no problem.
Im doing a 0.2 amp discharge from 4.163 volt to 2.5 volt for you now ill post the results tomorrow after work, the starting voltage of the discharge was 4.163 volt with a 0.2 amp load, i know its not 4.18 or 4.2 volt but that was the rested voltage after i charged it yesterday for this test, i thought it best not to try and top it up the rest it again.
I hope you still find the test useful.
bugsy714 wrote:
Looks like we have some good cells with POS PCB's! The protected are useless for most of us unless running them in parallel or in a low draw/high capacity uses.
If you can get these cells with a kallie's pcb you will own the market!
What alarmed me was the such low mah testing with the pcb,s.
redilast and aw sell the same cell,s with good pcb,s but the price is higher.
Charged the batteries sunday let the batteries rest over night then yesterday discharged, this test took almost 15 hours just to discharge. (remember all my test since post number 85 have been with the protection PCB,s removed)
Cell Bdischarged from 4.163 volt to 3 volt at 0.2 amps
Data table
Volts Vs mAh
Volts Vs Wh
The cells starting voltage was 4.163v with a 0.2 amp load, the cells resting voltage after a few hours was 3.24 volt, it almost gave 15 hours of run time, but this test was ment to be to 2.5 volt not 3 volt, my bad.
just stumbled on this thread! A lot of useful info here... I don't mind unprotected batteries, but I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if intl-outdoor get's these ncr18650a with better quality protection circuits. If so, they're a great buy.
—
A blog on keychain gadgets, pocket tools and more:
Last night I started a 0.2 amp discharge from 4.18v down to 2.5v this morning before I left for work the discharge cycle was at 12 hours it will most likely still be going when I get home from work tonight, the discharge test should run for around 20 + hours.
Is there any other test people are intrested in ? Would any one like any series test done ? I can do individual battery voltage still while discharging in series.
They might not last long if you go by my discharge test with the PCB installed.
I was not able to post the results of the 0.2 amp discharge test to 2.5 volt as the power was out when I got home so my computer shut down and the charger turned off, ill do the test again soon as I can as now I'm intrested with the run time.
I received 3 of these new batteries 2 days ago. They came to me out of the packaging reading about 3.6v each. I immediately charged 2 of them. They came off of my charger reading 4.19v each. I let them sit overnight to stabilize. They still read 4.19 the next day. I put 1 battery in a Solarforce L2T with a Manafont 3 mode (H-M-L) XM-L drop-in. I clicked the light on in high mode, and much to my surprise, the light only stays lit for a little less than 2 minutes, and then trips off. I then tried the same thing again, with the same results. I put a 2600mAh battery in the same light, clicked it on high, and the light stayed lit for 10 minutes, until I shut it off. What gives here? Is the protection circuit on these batteries really that bad? These batteries configured the current way, are basically useless to me. I also tried the light with a Callie's Kustom, and had no problems at all on high for over 10 minutes. Needless to say, I am not to happy with these cells at the moment.
I don't feel that anyone should have to take a brand new battery apart, take the PCB off, just to use the batteries. I am going to seek a refund.
Interesting that there are no reviews at intloutdoor for these, or anything else for that matter, mind you I have bought hundreds of pounds worth of different things there but I do not want my full real name used which it would automatically be by the looks of things and I also have a number of issues with certain other items bought.
Perhaps others feel the same?
In view of 'Hank' Yong Wang reading and participating here this matter needs to be looked at by Him and account holders must be given the option of anonymity.
2100 gets in the 3000,s with 1 amp discharge to 2.6 volt on the NCR18650A
So im not sure if that is 2.6v or 2.8 volt it must be 2.6v for those numbers on the 3100 test ?
HJK gets 2125 mAh out of a redilast 2600 mAh at 5 amp to 2.8 volt i get 2426 mAh down to 2.75 volt.
So you might be onto some thing HJK
Different battery batches (whether it is 2 years ago or 1 year ago) also makes a small diff i guess. These cells are most probably what some would call "surpluses". It depends on the age of such surpluses or batches.
and room temp of the test, i quess there is 1000 things that could affect the results slightly.
Panisonic suggest the maxium discharge on these batteries is 2C, 6.2 amps, so i thought ill give it a go and include some graphs.
6.2 amp discharge test from 4.16 to 2.5 volt.
Data table (at the end of cycle)
Volts VS mAh
Volts VS Wh
Battery tempture at the end of test
55.6 degrees C
The 'knee' at 3.3v shows a highly stressed cell on 2c discharge Benckie!
M.
That knee might also be due to the testing equipment.
I have not done any test at 6 ampere, but all my test up to 5 ampere does show smooth curves.
My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/
Unlikely IMHO, I've seen all this before with lithium chemistry at high or maximum with some manufacturers rated c discharge claims.
M.
Ok, here is a discharge test at 7 ampere I just did:
My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/
Another heavily stressed battery shown by initial voltage sag/recovery.
Best to run lithium at 60% maximum rated 'c' discharge to avoid damage and get good life.
Exactly, and then it recovers a bit when it heats up. But there are no bumps midway in the curve.
My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/
That is true, they are the best cell out there. Interesting data.
M.
I thought it did well once it leveled out, I asked my daughter to stay away from the battery while it was discharging, she asked me are we going to pop it dad lolls it did get bloody hot but did well.
Charged the batteries yesterday let the batteries rest over night then today discharged. (remember all my test since post number 85 have been with the protection PCB,s removed)
Cell A discharged from 4.15 volt to 2.5 volt at 0.5 amps
Data table
Volts Vs mAh
Volts Vs Wh
In your first test with the PCB and 0.5A discharge, the cell was charged to 4.2V.
This one is starting from 4.15V, so theoretically the 3100mAh should have been achieved if the cell was charged to 4.2V
But for those charging to 4.15V is a good reference point.
Looks like we have some good cells with POS PCB's! The protected are useless for most of us unless running them in parallel or in a low draw/high capacity uses.
If you can get these cells with a kallie's pcb you will own the market!
To be honest with these cell after being rested from a full charger the voltage is around 4.18, the rested voltage of this cell was 4.159 after being rested, it might of droped 0.021 volt or so for sitting on the charger to long, before i removed it.
It would be a good test for people say using xtar chargers like the one i test a little while back they seam to cut out around 4.15 volt, better then over charging and the cells would last bit longer, but from 4.18 or 4.20 they would hit 3100 mAh no problem.
Im doing a 0.2 amp discharge from 4.163 volt to 2.5 volt for you now ill post the results tomorrow after work, the starting voltage of the discharge was 4.163 volt with a 0.2 amp load, i know its not 4.18 or 4.2 volt but that was the rested voltage after i charged it yesterday for this test, i thought it best not to try and top it up the rest it again.
I hope you still find the test useful.
What alarmed me was the such low mah testing with the pcb,s.
redilast and aw sell the same cell,s with good pcb,s but the price is higher.
Since the Pcb's suck. I think hank should refund/ credit the extra $2 people spent on the batteries. I would like a refund/ credit of $6.
I like: walks on the beach, sushi and things that are paisley.
I got my three unprotected ones, charged one already.
Using in my ZebraLight SC600w now.
So far I like them
or how about a $2 credit towards a new cell once the pcb issue is fixed? we are going to have to remove the pcb to use them
so far my "mnke" 26650's seem to be performing solidly in a 9amp lights so thumbs up there
Charged the batteries sunday let the batteries rest over night then yesterday discharged, this test took almost 15 hours just to discharge. (remember all my test since post number 85 have been with the protection PCB,s removed)
Cell B discharged from 4.163 volt to 3 volt at 0.2 amps
Data table
Volts Vs mAh
Volts Vs Wh
The cells starting voltage was 4.163v with a 0.2 amp load, the cells resting voltage after a few hours was 3.24 volt, it almost gave 15 hours of run time, but this test was ment to be to 2.5 volt not 3 volt, my bad.
just stumbled on this thread! A lot of useful info here... I don't mind unprotected batteries, but I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if intl-outdoor get's these ncr18650a with better quality protection circuits. If so, they're a great buy.
A blog on keychain gadgets, pocket tools and more:
http://keychainpockets.blogspot.com/
Last night I started a 0.2 amp discharge from 4.18v down to 2.5v this morning before I left for work the discharge cycle was at 12 hours it will most likely still be going when I get home from work tonight, the discharge test should run for around 20 + hours.
Is there any other test people are intrested in ? Would any one like any series test done ? I can do individual battery voltage still while discharging in series.
I ordered three. How well do they work in a mid-drain light like a TK30 or Jetbeam MX? Will the protection trip?
Thanks
Dave
The current drawn by the TK30 is about 1.2A, so I do not think they'll trip the current. http://www.lygte-info.dk/pic/Fenix/TK30/TK30BrightnesCurrent.png
I presume you have the Jetbeam M1X. I am not sure about the current on two cells for that model, but I think I've seen someone mentioning 1A.
They might not last long if you go by my discharge test with the PCB installed.
I was not able to post the results of the 0.2 amp discharge test to 2.5 volt as the power was out when I got home so my computer shut down and the charger turned off, ill do the test again soon as I can as now I'm intrested with the run time.
Thanks for the reply. I expect these cells will be fine for my use. Once they are received I'll post my impressions.
Regards,
Dave
I received 3 of these new batteries 2 days ago. They came to me out of the packaging reading about 3.6v each. I immediately charged 2 of them. They came off of my charger reading 4.19v each. I let them sit overnight to stabilize. They still read 4.19 the next day. I put 1 battery in a Solarforce L2T with a Manafont 3 mode (H-M-L) XM-L drop-in. I clicked the light on in high mode, and much to my surprise, the light only stays lit for a little less than 2 minutes, and then trips off. I then tried the same thing again, with the same results. I put a 2600mAh battery in the same light, clicked it on high, and the light stayed lit for 10 minutes, until I shut it off. What gives here? Is the protection circuit on these batteries really that bad? These batteries configured the current way, are basically useless to me. I also tried the light with a Callie's Kustom, and had no problems at all on high for over 10 minutes. Needless to say, I am not to happy with these cells at the moment.
I don't feel that anyone should have to take a brand new battery apart, take the PCB off, just to use the batteries. I am going to seek a refund.
yes, the pcb's make them useless junk, how about a demo on how to remove them?
Interesting that there are no reviews at intloutdoor for these, or anything else for that matter, mind you I have bought hundreds of pounds worth of different things there but I do not want my full real name used which it would automatically be by the looks of things and I also have a number of issues with certain other items bought.
Perhaps others feel the same?
In view of 'Hank' Yong Wang reading and participating here this matter needs to be looked at by Him and account holders must be given the option of anonymity.
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