Lexel wrote:

Good news for the 2S drivers

Tom E wrote:

For Lexel or anyone interested, I’m figuring out the support for adding R1/R2 LVP (2S cells) to NarsilTriple, but it will mean losing the Indicator LED support, so must be a compile switch then.

I am going to order the parts and boards next Monday

OP updated prices for phodsphor bronze springs and increased costs on Digikey.de due to changed parts costs

Lexel wrote:

JasonWW wrote:

Lexel wrote:

Good news for the 2S drivers

Tom E wrote:

For Lexel or anyone interested, I’m figuring out the support for adding R1/R2 LVP (2S cells) to NarsilTriple, but it will mean losing the Indicator LED support, so must be a compile switch then.

I am going to order the parts and boards next Monday

OP updated prices for phodsphor bronze springs and increased costs on Digikey.de due to changed parts costs

Is the indicator led the red one and seperate from the green power led? I’m hoping to have some type of led to show me when my rear switch is turned on (for an L6). Also to help me find it in the dark.

The driver has just the resistors you connect the LEDs to,
you can choose any color you want, but I have no SMD LEDs here, so if you want them delivered with the driver I have to order them.
I dont know how the L6 sideswitch is build and which LEDs it has on it.

If the L6 has no LEDs in the sideswitch you have to modify the switch PCB, drill small holes and glue the leads in them and solder the LED to the leads should work well.
I can order LEDs and solder them to the top of leads you just drill holes to the switch PCB.
But this will cost you some $ as I have to order at least 100 SMD LEDs for each color and solder them.

I though there were 2. One was a power indicator (green) and one was a low voltage indicator (red). Or whatever colors you want.

I’m sorry, I may not be making things clear.

I was asking about the firmware support, not anything on the driver.

I should probably ask Tom E.

I checked on the L6 e-swich leds and they share the ground with the e-switch.
That should mean that you only need to run two extra leads from the driver board, one from R2 positive and one from bleeder positive.
Or am i completely wrong?

Okay, I think I understand. I just need a power on LED so I know the rear switch is on and also to help me find the side switch. It seems I can add that circuit myself.

Oh boy, must have missed this. I have, and been testing Narsil for 2 channel with support for both R1/R2 and the internal 1.1V ref (compile switch), so think it should go easy in NarsilTriple 3 channel.

Interesting, glad to see some people are interested in this. I think people were just a bit shy of a new driver when I was offering them. Glad to see someone else picking up the mantle and offering these.

I had really wanted to get a batch of these machine made to drastically reduce costs but there never appeared to be the demand for it. I have just been using A6 drivers myself lately, I kinda burnt myself out building the ~100 or so drivers I did build for my lights last year.

FYI, you can get the larger PCB’s from a few places for much cheaper per PCB then oshpark. The smaller pcb’s are still cheaper with oshpark.

I tried both of the following places with good results. They took about the same time to arrive and were both what I ordered. I could recommend either of them based on the 1 order I made with each. These drop the price per PCB down to about $1.25-1.50 each for the 30mm+ sizes this is a pretty big savings.

ITead – A bit higher quality possibly but also a bit higher cost.

Maker Studio

I have a few 30mm PCB’s and 46mm 2s/4s drivers left over from my order if anyone wants them quicker and cheaper then oshpark.

Did anyone remember (or figure out) what size driver the Courui D01 has? The question was asked earlier here, but I don’t remember it being answered.

Edit: I just looked it up. From this thread:

LinusHofmann wrote:

The driver board has a diameter of 38.5mm and is press fit into the body.

Do you have a driver board that size?

The TAD01 was made for the D01, while I don’t know of anyone having tried it yet, it should work it in by the measurements fine.

I personally piggybacked a driver onto the stock pcb as I didn’t feel like spending the $15 just to order the PCB’s.

It is running narsil with an XP-l HI throwing right at 1000m.

Lexel wrote:

Hi,

For all the narsil drivers I want to point out,
temperature threshold can be choosen as you want.

With a Triple on a small host a lower temperature is like 55°C advised, as the temperature still rises when the light dstarts to step down

With a single LED in a medium or large host its better to go to 60°C or above

if you are using DTP stars the body can be too hot too hold without damaging the light
Djozz told me he uses on all his lights 70°C

Well damnit i wasnt gonna make any changes..

Set mine to 70°C then haha

Lexel wrote:

Hi,

For all the narsil drivers I want to point out,
temperature threshold can be choosen as you want.

With a Triple on a small host a lower temperature is like 55°C advised, as the temperature still rises when the light dstarts to step down

With a single LED in a medium or large host its better to go to 60°C or above

if you are using DTP stars the body can be too hot too hold without damaging the light
Djozz told me he uses on all his lights 70°C

There is no need to pre-set the thermal settings. There is a calibration mode in the menu that allows the user to set the max temp they want at any time or disable it altogether. It is all listed in the Bistro manual, all the menu options are the same except for the mode groups.

Also that define for the tempreture in the code is not directly related to degrees. I think every 4 digits is 1c IIRC, better to just leave it set to something like 75-85 which is pretty safe in most lights and let people calibrate it as needed once installed.

I have updated my version of the mode groups a bit for my personal drivers, switched some things around to what I think is a bit more universal set of modes. Basically added a few mode groups with a midrange mode between the bank of 7135’s and turbo for triples/quads and new low Vf LED’s. They get too hot in small hosts if in full turbo so a midrange point is nice to manage heat. I have not uploaded this version of the firmware because I have not been able to get the files transferred to my PC for upload. I can try to do this if people want it.

Lexel wrote:

Texas Ace
The Temp setup is for Narsil Triple v1.3 and higher

Tom E implemented Temperature protection in this versions, but has not an option to configure it in settings like in Bistro

The higher price for Narsil is mainly because its more work doing the temperature calibration, optional resistor for indicator LED and user requested settings that need to be set in Amtel Studio for each driver individually

Ah, I missed that it was for narsil. I have not really messed with it much, V1.2 is all I use since it still supports the voltage divider. It looks like the latest version might offer this again though.

I updated the TA Bistro, it is in the same link as before in the OP.

Only change is the addition of a v1.2 version of the firmware, the modes are changed slightly to a bit better spacing and options IMHO. Particularly for low Vf LED’s. It gives a midrange mode that is much easier heat wise then full turbo in several mode groups.

I found myself wanting this in a few lights that were simply too hot in turbo and not as bright as they could be in the 7135 bank mode.

I might make one more change to the mode groups at some point, I wish I had made group 15 without level 4 as the first mode, just use moon and then skip to 1× 7135 as I prefer 4 modes on my lights, more just gets annoying IMO. Plus I like having all my lights the same to make it easier to know when I am in the highest mode in each one.

The “old” version still works fine, I just figured I would toss this up as I prefer these mode groups myself.

As I get distracted while I write this, I'm working on Narsil Q8 with a config UI that should work exactly like Bistro for thermal stepdown - enter it, light gets sets to max, if you click within 3-5 secs or so, you bail out, but longer than 3-5 secs, the next click will save off the temp sensor reading to use as your trigger point to step it down at. I think this will be the most practical way, but we need to make a note somewhere to use an IR thermometer or equivalent to measure the outside body temp at the hottest point, so 50C-60C is the preferable setting. If not, they most likely will set it too low, based on how hot it feels in the hand.

We will default to a timed stepdown of 2-3 minutes, so if they choose thermal stepdown, then bail out quickly, they will get the factory default for 52C,but that won't be very accurate, maybe +/- 6C or so,maybe worse.

Hoping soon after to get this all ported to NarsilTriple for 3 channels.

Lexel wrote:

Ok I am ready to pull the trigger and start order the Oshpark boards

Please write me a PN with what you definately want to order so I can give you my paypal address and give you payment details

springs and AMCs are already ordered

Have you responded to anyone yet? I haven’t heard back from my PM.

Edit:
Sorry, I did hear back from you. I just didn’t get a notification that I recieved a new PM. If anyone else hasn’t heard back, manually check your PM page.

Nobody is interested in a 46mm version?
Then I will take 2 17mm Narsil no spring.

What size are the 3 drivers not spoken for?