so finally reflowed all those 200 AMCs and some MCU sides of 17/20/22mm
in the picture on the left side drivers that are ready to be programmed and tested,
already passed visual check, with some that needed some parts aligned right, remove solder blob shorts between pads
on the right side drivers with AMCs missing as I expect 100 from the last order I added after I got more MCUs and fets to build some extra drivers
I did learning by doing for reflowing drivers
I learned how to apply a tiny but sufficient amount of solder paste with some tricks
just see one of the first vs the last, optical far better, but electrical identical
At this rate you will surpass myself in the most TA drivers built lol.
The latest drivers do look much better, you don’t need much paste at all. This is why the stencils are so nice, they give you the perfect amount and put it in the perfect spot every time and in a a couple of seconds too boot!
A tip for better reflowing is to reflow the top side components first and heat the pcb from the bottom with about ~350-380c air. First off this lets you use much higher air speeds without blowing components off and it also ensures the best possible connection.
The 7135 side just do like normal from the top of the components. They are much easier to deal with like this.
Those shorts are almost always a result of too much solder paste. This is why I recommended the stincles. They make it much easier to get the right amount but not too much.
This is a case where less is more.
The mask looks good, the solder looks to have been pushed up from the FET having too much paste.
Generally if you replace the 7135 and reflow it back on it will work fine as that removed a little bit of solder paste when you do that.
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light
indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings
lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries
!
this is now the 3. board witch such an issue
not enough solder mask paint, and I get ground short from back of one AMC7135
costed me 1.5 hours so far
board looks messy when you unsolder those AMCs too often
Sorry for the setbacks. I hope you’re having some fun putting these together. I can tell your very organized. I’m sure that has helped make it much less frustrating.
I’m looking forward to having four more lights unified, all running Narsil.
I appreciate the work You, Texas_Ace, TomE and others have done to make these possible.
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light
indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings
lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries
Okay, mine doesn’t say tactical on the spreadsheet, but it should.
Also, I only need the lighted side switch, so I think Narsil v1.2 is what I should go with. That way I also have the low votage protection.
Thanks
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light
indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings
lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries
Okay, mine doesn’t say tactical on the spreadsheet, but it should.
Also, I only need the lighted side switch, so I think Narsil v1.2 is what I should go with. That way I also have the low votage protection.
Thanks
v1.2 has no temperature protection, so if thats Ok for you
Tom E is too busy to make LVP / indicator switch into Narsil triple v1.5
v1.2 has no temperature protection, so if thats Ok for you
Yes, that’s fine by me. My hand is the temperature protection. Lol
Plus, I’ve recently switched to unprotected Liitokalas for more output so the LVP is more important to me even though I’ll have the lighted side switch to tell me if the rear switch is on or off.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
So made some progress on merging Narsil 2 channel and 3 channel, so I have one source code base now with a header file called setups.h. In setups.h, you define all the board configuration settings and other compile time user option settings.
It's compiling now for 2 channel and 3 channel, with indicator LED enabled or disabled, and using R1/R2 or internal V1.1 ref for voltage monitoring.
Totally untested, but it compiles.
Next to do is actually try it...
Some Details:
It has the more advanced, simplified version of the configuration settings UI that's in the 2 channel latest version of Narsil, v1.3. One new feature is ability to set the temperature threshold for thermal stepdown. There's probably a couple more tweaks as well in LVP and thermal stepdown, results from more recent testing.
Testing will take some time - may need to actually build up a couple boards, etc.
looks like the new BLF GT buck driver that's in the design/proto phase will be a perfect fit for this combined Narsil version - I'm calling it NarsilM for now: Multi-channel configuration
the GT buck driver will just be another channel configuration, but with some special needs. Two I/O PWM pins, but slightly different behavior
I'm a big fan of the TA triple drivers, so I want/need to get this done!! (as I hit myself over the head...)
Thank you Lexel once again, your work is truly appreciated !
Can I add a Locator LED if I want to ? Thanks !
locator LED with resistor can be simply added to the bleeder resistor pads
You will need to add a resistor inline with the LED in this case or it will drain the battery very quickly. A normal through hole resistor could be used easy enough. Something around 30k-50k ohms generally works out ok.
so finally reflowed all those 200 AMCs and some MCU sides of 17/20/22mm
in the picture on the left side drivers that are ready to be programmed and tested,
already passed visual check, with some that needed some parts aligned right, remove solder blob shorts between pads
on the right side drivers with AMCs missing as I expect 100 from the last order I added after I got more MCUs and fets to build some extra drivers
I did learning by doing for reflowing drivers
I learned how to apply a tiny but sufficient amount of solder paste with some tricks
just see one of the first vs the last, optical far better, but electrical identical
so we got for programming
1 15mm Narsil
4 17mm Narsil
9 17mm Bistro
1 20mm Bistro
1 20mm Narsil
1 21mm Bistro
3 21mm Narsil
1 22mm Bistro
1 22mm Narsil
12 30mm 2S LDO Narsil
4 30mm 1S Narsil
3 38.5 1S Narsil
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
At this rate you will surpass myself in the most TA drivers built lol.
The latest drivers do look much better, you don’t need much paste at all. This is why the stencils are so nice, they give you the perfect amount and put it in the perfect spot every time and in a a couple of seconds too boot!
A tip for better reflowing is to reflow the top side components first and heat the pcb from the bottom with about ~350-380c air. First off this lets you use much higher air speeds without blowing components off and it also ensures the best possible connection.
The 7135 side just do like normal from the top of the components. They are much easier to deal with like this.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Added indicator resistors to all Narsil drivers
Wiring like in this picture
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
first driver flashed and under testing and temp calibration
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
With lots of happy on lookers.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
first 8 Narsil driver cleaned from flux, electrical check
test and temperature calibration
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Wooo Hoooo!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Input
100 AMC7135
3 17mm boards
Output first orders complete to get shipped
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
this is now the 3. board witch such an issue
not enough solder mask paint, and I get ground short from back of one AMC7135
costed me 1.5 hours so far
board looks messy when you unsolder those AMCs too often
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Those shorts are almost always a result of too much solder paste. This is why I recommended the stincles. They make it much easier to get the right amount but not too much.
This is a case where less is more.
The mask looks good, the solder looks to have been pushed up from the FET having too much paste.
Generally if you replace the 7135 and reflow it back on it will work fine as that removed a little bit of solder paste when you do that.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Lexel, can you explain what “tactical” means on your spread sheet?
Also, on the drivers with resistors added for LEDs, can you explain the difference between indicator LED and lighted side switch LED?
Thanks
I still haven’t decided which version of Narsil to go with.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light
indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings
lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Sorry for the setbacks. I hope you’re having some fun putting these together. I can tell your very organized. I’m sure that has helped make it much less frustrating.
I’m looking forward to having four more lights unified, all running Narsil.
I appreciate the work You, Texas_Ace, TomE and others have done to make these possible.
Okay, mine doesn’t say tactical on the spreadsheet, but it should.
Also, I only need the lighted side switch, so I think Narsil v1.2 is what I should go with. That way I also have the low votage protection.
Thanks
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
v1.2 has no temperature protection, so if thats Ok for you
Tom E is too busy to make LVP / indicator switch into Narsil triple v1.5
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Yes, that’s fine by me. My hand is the temperature protection. Lol
Plus, I’ve recently switched to unprotected Liitokalas for more output so the LVP is more important to me even though I’ll have the lighted side switch to tell me if the rear switch is on or off.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
These do look great. Thank you for making these for the community.
mattlward
vinte77
statix57
Kawiboy
Etex
MrJohnny
sent today
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
reflowed now all boards
tomorrow doing a lot programming and testing
last chance to check if your divers are set up as you wish
when you did not specify any temperature limit it will be set to 60°C
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
all drivers are now flashed configured and tested
did pack em as well
last chance to check the Excel sheet if everything is right
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Nothing travels faster than the speed of light with the possible exception of bad news, which obeys its own special laws. – Douglas Adams
Thanks for all your hard work. I’m looking forward to receiving them and building me some awesome lights.
+1
I posted this in TA's driver thread as well:
So made some progress on merging Narsil 2 channel and 3 channel, so I have one source code base now with a header file called setups.h. In setups.h, you define all the board configuration settings and other compile time user option settings.
It's compiling now for 2 channel and 3 channel, with indicator LED enabled or disabled, and using R1/R2 or internal V1.1 ref for voltage monitoring.
Totally untested, but it compiles.
Next to do is actually try it...
Some Details:
It has the more advanced, simplified version of the configuration settings UI that's in the 2 channel latest version of Narsil, v1.3. One new feature is ability to set the temperature threshold for thermal stepdown. There's probably a couple more tweaks as well in LVP and thermal stepdown, results from more recent testing.
Testing will take some time - may need to actually build up a couple boards, etc.
Thank you Lexel. You have been epic!!
Thank you Lexel once again, your work is truly appreciated !
Can I add a Locator LED if I want to ? Thanks !
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
locator LED with resistor can be simply added to the bleeder resistor pads
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Just little more Narsil update news -
You will need to add a resistor inline with the LED in this case or it will drain the battery very quickly. A normal through hole resistor could be used easy enough. Something around 30k-50k ohms generally works out ok.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Pages