BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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Mitko
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The only one they have 2 weeks ago is P2-AA-VL, i guess its more or less 8000k or something and thats kinda higher K that i needed actualy but i got only 2 for the test

They claim 1800+ lument at 5 amps, thats more or less like a V6 emitter

I saw lately that KD offers them too

Jerommel
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Mitko wrote:
More or less reality m8 Smile

As i mentiuoned this many times here, HI emitter has a sillicone burn issue on a long term base when driven at high currents, especialy < 5000k bins
Plus its a low performer .
Plus we are BLFers, its a shame not to dedome a XML or XPL in that host, or XPG

Actualy CPF way is to get a M2X and pay aditionaly 100$ for a high class modding

I understand your opinion, but i’m driving the XP-L HI (V3 1A) on 4 Amperes, which makes it a fine light that will have maximum output for a good part of the charge of the battery.
It doesn’t get hot either.
Can you say the same?
Probably not, but that’s not important to you, you want the highest Candela readings from a single 18650 light.
So, to each their own, right?
No need to be snobbish on BLF, that’s what people dislike about CPF, don’t you agree?
Jerommel
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polarweis wrote:
How much mm driver and mcpcb do i need for this light?

17mm driver.
MCPCB depends on how you prefer to build up the light.
Mitko
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Quote:
Can you say the same?

Ofc i can! Any U3 or U4 at 4 amps will have at least 20% better candelas, better beam profile and i am 100% sure that it will run cooled than your HI or any other HI emitter in existance.
About dding it, well, i am pretty confident that everybody can do it, if someone cant: msg me , or those lovely blf ppl arround that topic would gladly help at no cost.

PPl dislike CPF cause it was all about Surefire( the one and only), flashlights under 100$ are crap, no reason bannings and other stuff of that ilk

Once again, thats the reality, the BLF way, the cheaper and more reliable / productive way…and its fun.

Exacly as modding that host, yes its ugly and cheap yet the results are great

Actualy yes, on second thoughts there are ppl that demand only 6500k+ …then using HI is reasonable….i did that on my first host actualy, quite forgot about that Big Smile

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Well, i have no SureFires or Sparks or other overpriced lights.
But if i want to run a XM or XP LED on 6 Amperes i want to run it on 2× 18650 (or 26650) with a buck driver like FX-30.
For a single cell the VF is too high at those currents, so the party is over after a short while.

But okay, maybe the XP-L Hi V3 1A was not the most exiting choice for this ‘new BLF classic’, but i had one lying around so i put it in there. Smile

polarweis
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Bedankt voor je reply;) i want the led to be close to the reflector but what i understand is you need to fill in the space with copper or other conducter. Can i just take a 16mm copper plate and drill two holes in it for the cables and put a 26mm mcpcb on that plate(with thermal paste)?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

luminarium iaculator
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Ok. You know that 16mm mcpcb build guys with drilled reflector from this thread? I checked again with new lux meter (with fc fuction, 5 meters, 5 measurings) and average was 282kcd.

Now I will add 11,4% difference Djozz got in measuring same dd emitter and same budget lux meter as mine + compared to professional light meter and final result is 321kcd (if I calculated right Question ) for old xpg2s42b in Supwildfire reflector.

That is not bad at all… I finally have piece of mind Innocent

So yes… 240kcd of new production xpg2s42b that some of you guys got with fet driver now seems realistic to my previous results from aspheric lights(25-30% difference among new vs old one) and if I will do another batch of this Supwildfire(Mitko’s thrower) reflectors I will do them with new s42b. Why? Larger beam and only 3,6A current draw with fet drivers so you can enjoy turbo mode for a longer time…

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LI, I just purchased one of these lights with the intention of modding it similar to your 16mm one. In short, you

  1. enlarged the hole of the reflector to fit an entire 16mm mcpcb
  2. stripped a 16mm mcpcb and adhered it to the pill to act as a spacer
  3. adhered the LED on a 16mm mcpcb on top of the spacer

Any other mods? And tips on cleaning the reflector after drilling – compressed air, rinse, etc?

Now just to decide between a new XP-G2 (I don’t have any old ones), a DD XM-L2 U4, or DD XP-L V6. Hmm… decisions, decisions.

luminarium iaculator
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Reflector cleaning? You know about those special fluids for cleaning LCD TV? They usually come in set with fine microfiber rag.

So after drilling use compressed air (i have air compressor), after that spray it(5-8 times) with LCD fluid and after that blow with compressed air again. Now it will be dry but now use spray (1 time) with lcd fluid and then use microfiber rag to clean reflector out (put rag and press it firmly into reflector and just do cw or ccw spinning of reflector to that rag). It will be shiner and better than stock. Use same method for main top glass cleaning.

I added thin o ring under upper reflector edge and pill is copper tapped.

I found desired focus with fine pill ccw screwing and with mentioned very thin oring(probably not needed) under reflector upper edge + eye centering method which can be tricky…
I hold light firmly with benchvise (but you could firmly hold it with right hand) while i fiddle with reflector with left hand and when I center the hotspot that it looks perfect to my eyes on high ceiling(low mode of course) than I just hold it on that position and super glue it very thinly on several points of reflector. Fine tipped super glue helps here.
So once when it is locked with supper glue additional press of glass and bezel will tight it up even more. Reflector spinning can’t happen with this method cause reflector is locked with super glue.
You may use your own methods but if you did this way and if you messed something with glue just use hot air gun (short time around each edge) and glue will crack; clean and you can start again.

New XP-G2 should give you around 240 kcd(depends on light meter you have Smile ) and only 3,6A current draw(new xpg2s42b I have at home) which should be good for FET driver combination.
Longer runtimes in turbo mode are desirable in single 18650 lights right guys?

Edit “stripped a 16mm mcpcb and adhered it to the pill to act as a spacer”
No. I added it for better heat transfer. You don’t actually need that. So it is not a spacer. It is probably even easier to set focus without that. Use thermal glue(artic alumina so no room for mistakes here) with hard press and you should be fine with heat transfer even without additional chunk of copper.

Mitko
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I wonder why you pll make your life harder Smile Just order those lovely Manker( thanks m8 for the bangood link) MCPCBs and be happy.

luminarium iaculator

We have new breeds of those XPG2s now m8, they are better than the first wave ones, yet they cant compare wiith the good old ones

luminarium iaculator
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Mitko wrote:
I wonder why you pll make your life harder Smile Just order those lovely Manker( thanks m8 for the bangood link) MCPCBs and be happy.

luminarium iaculator

We have new breeds of those XPG2s now m8, they are better than the first wave ones, yet they cant compare wiith the good old ones

It all depends Mitko… For someone without lathe or without possibility to hand file or rasp the pill to fitt 26mm mcpcb that method could be harder…

BTW does newer breeds also draw 3,6A of current like first batch of new ones? I know that first batch of new xpg2s42b draws only 3,6A of current on fet driver.

And of course it can’t be better than old one. New one won’t reach 321 kcd… No chance for that… But it will give longer runtimes on turbo. This is single 18650 light after all?

polarweis
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But how do you install the manker mcpcb? Wouldnt it leave a hole under it where normalu the 16mm mcpcb sits?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

gastonpatagonico
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Hi, New XHP50.2 dedomed, could it be an option? Bin is not equal to xm-l2? Greetings.
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Mitko wrote:
I wonder why you pll make your life harder Smile Just order those lovely Manker( thanks m8 for the bangood link) MCPCBs and be happy.

luminarium iaculator

We have new breeds of those XPG2s now m8, they are better than the first wave ones, yet they cant compare wiith the good old ones

Do you mean those with the bigger die but the lower Vf (draws 4.3 – 4.7 amps) ?

Btw , my first supwilfire was great , had the nice black centering ring Mitko mentioned and reflector was super clean , my second one is really disappointing ! Glass has some marks that can’t be cleaned , reflector is full of dirt and centering ring is the unusable one .

Anthon
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I had good results with this centering ring

https://www.banggood.com/20×12mm-Flashlight-Smooth-Reflector-For-Convoy...XPL-Gasket-p-1088827.html?rmmds=search

luminarium iaculator
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polarweis wrote:
But how do you install the manker mcpcb? Wouldnt it leave a hole under it where normalu the 16mm mcpcb sits?

Friend you did not read a single thing from this thread? Big Smile That’s OK…

You must add thin copper plate into that hole (up to 19mm wide and up to 1,5-3mm thickness) than you must use lathe to take pill top and to make it flat to that copper plate and sand and polish everything up.

Or if you don’t have lathe or mill you can file or rasp it to that plate by hand but you must be very skillful for this (gunsmith skills)

So Junior librarian job (click and you’ll see)

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1123662#comment-112366

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1132823#comment-1132823

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1133001#comment-1133001

djozz
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I have another Supwildfire waiting, and a 26mm Maxtoch board. I will clamp the pill into a vice and use a hacksaw to saw the rin off the pill, and then file and sand it flat. No lathe needed. Will make a few pictures when I do that.

giorgoskok
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In mine used only a big file and sandpaper , didn’t take much time . My current one will be done with the hole in the reflector , since i don’t have any 26/28mm boards for now …

luminarium iaculator
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djozz wrote:
I have another Supwildfire waiting, and a 26mm Maxtoch board. I will clamp the pill into a vice and use a hacksaw to saw the rin off the pill, and then file and sand it flat. No lathe needed. Will make a few pictures when I do that.

Lathe is most accurate method. Hacksaw? That is brave… Very thin hacksaw blade could do it I guess…

luminarium iaculator
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giorgoskok wrote:
In mine used only a big file and sandpaper , didn’t take much time . My current one will be done with the hole in the reflector , since i don’t have any 26/28mm boards for now …

I see you got one with dirty reflector and lens. Use my above mentioned method for cleaning that out. It should work.

polarweis
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I did read it Glasses i think i got things mixed up because not everyone is using the same method.. and i dont have a lathe but maybe with a file and a whetstone Party

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

giorgoskok
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
In mine used only a big file and sandpaper , didn’t take much time . My current one will be done with the hole in the reflector , since i don’t have any 26/28mm boards for now …

I see you got one with dirty reflector and lens. Use my above mentioned method for cleaning that out. It should work.

Tried cleaning glass but it won’t clean .

Not touching reflector with something , lesson learned Ughh Even microfiber cloth leaves micro scratches

luminarium iaculator
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giorgoskok][quote=luminarium iaculator wrote:
Not touching reflector with something , lesson learned Ughh Even microfiber cloth leaves micro scratches

I disagree. Some guys are cleaning camera sensors and lenses with same stuff(you can use very fine microfiber cloth if you are concerned) and I don’t even have to tell how sensitive stuff is that.

But I respect your opinion. I guess even dirty reflector will throw. Reflector from Supfire factory really comes fingerprinted and dirty from factory. They use slap and play assembling method.

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I could not resist anymore so i ordered one to test this thing out, my plan is fet driven xml-2 on maxtooch board, i have no use for that led-board combo so i thought i give a chance to this light, it should be fun modding it Big Smile

I just need to find cheap cooper board so i can make spacer from it, those noctigon boards that i have all around me are too good to chop them.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

djozz
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Jay, I had time for a mod today!

 

My second Supwildfire. It had the fake XM-L2 and a cheap aluminium pill. But also a fat Omten switch at the back which is nice, I only had to solder a wire from the brass cap to the bottom of the spring, add a colourful silicon tailcap and the tail was done.

So I had bought one of those expensive 26mm Maxtoch boards (before I knew about the cheaper Manker version yell ) and all was fine they said. Well, I do not know how other people did it but for me it required quite some fancy pill modifications to get it working.

Sawing off the rim

 

Sanding the top flat (a very thin edge was leftover, later I removed it)

Holes drilled in the side

Dremeled the opening out. Also added 20AWG wires to a bistro-driver and made a spring-bypass. Also carefully reamed the reflector opening so that one of my better centerpieces would exactly fit. The centerpiece was also sanded down on the underside so that it only sticks out of the reflector by just a fraction of a mm (=correct focus for a dedomed led!)

Then flattened the Maxtoch board on the underside as well as possible (800 grit) reflowed an old type XP-G2 S3 3D on it and hot-dedomed the led (went well Smile  )

Then the driver was fixed into the pill (it has a well working retaining ring for it Smile ), applied a very thin layer of Arctic silver 5 on the pill, screwed the pill into the head into position (top level of the pill just above the shelf in the head surrounding it) and fixed the position by screwing in the battery tube against it (very tight). The ledboard was pressed on the pill and the ledwires soldered. I did not fix the board to the pill, just hoped that when screwing down the bezel, the reflector would not shear something off.

It worked well, the reflector nicely pressed down the board when closing the bezel, without damaging the ledwires (at least the light works fine sealed)

Now I have two of these modded! laughing

The current on a VTC6, measured with a clamp meter with the tail section of the flashlight off, is about 3.9 A. The output at 30 seconds: I measured 965 djozz-lumen. I carefully measured the throw (VTC6, 30 seconds, 7 meter distance) and measured a rewarding 322 kcd. And very steady as well, hardly dropping output, perhaps thanks to that huge Maxtoch board.

gastonpatagonico
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Good job !!!, what centering used for xpg2? regards!!
djozz
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gastonpatagonico wrote:
Good job !!!, what centering used for xpg2? regards!!

I used these from Banggood: https://www.banggood.com/5PCS-Convoy-XPL-Insulation-Sheet-For-9mm-Reflector-Hole-p-1033479.html?rmmds=category , they are too large so I reamed the hole in the reflector to exactly fit the center piece.
khas
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Very nice mod djozz Beer

luminarium iaculator
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That beam tint looks like my old maglite magcharger Smile

Nice modd Djozz but no freaking chance that old XP-G2 S3 3D throws same or better than mine good old XP-G2 S4 2B. I would bet with anyone any day for that statement.

Since you are so far away I guess I will have to send mine Mitko’s thrower to you for proper measuring. Cause that cheapo we both have even with your mentioned 11,4% add on measurement gives same numbers as yours on fully charged Samsung inr 30Q.

And BTW all my pictures disappeared from forum. F……g Photobucket!

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Sorry about your pictures, I’m lucky to always have used flickr, until of course they will start charging as well Sad

About the mod doing the same numbers as your S4 2B: I did do everything very right, including the focus Innocent Party

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