Yeah I have the Dc fix over my S41, not a great difference but I have left it on.
A BLF project used to be a nicer tint and a current boost, now it seems to be a complete ground up project pushing boundaries. I hope there remains room for both, I don’t have the time or inclination to do even minor mods unfortunately.
I’m still preferring the TIR option if I’m honest, I carry the S41 over the Q8 for walking.
If I go to the Q8 it replaces the C8, if I want more throw I take the Maxtoch (soon a GT hopefully). The constant always remains the little TIR for its great close range beam.
The TIR isn’t all to credit, the Nichia’s certainly help. The beam profile, tint and CRI all combine to make it useful close range.
I drew another light that I want today….
driverless 10180 thrower based on Osram SYNIOS P2720 DMLQ31.SG and Khatod PL1670UN.
I don’t have any 10180 discharge curves so it’s hard for me to predict the output.
Theoretically, if the LED was driven to the peak level we see on koef3 charts and was cooled as well, it would do ~37 kcd.
I guess estimating 20 kcd is conservative enough.
Yes! I want a 10180 thrower! It should be fully optimized for throw by using a tiny emitter with good brightness(brain fart – I can’t remember the right word) and a very well machined smooth reflector. Let’s build it!
Edit: I just realized that I missed what you were saying almost entirely. I guess I turned off reading comprehension after “10180 thrower… “ I don’t really want any flashlight that doesn’t use a driver. I’m not familiar with that emitter or that optic. Can you tell me a little about why you chose those?
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
The LED is the current throw king: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58016
It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).
The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…
Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?
EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.
The LED is the current throw king: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58016
It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).
The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…
Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?
EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.
For me, the driver is desirable in order to get a nice UI. I wouldn’t necessarily want max output at all times either. It’s not so much about “regulation” as it is about “control”. I’m a little bit of a control freak, and I like having choices. It would also be insanely cool to have the NarsilM smooth ramping on such a minuscule light. That, coupled with it being classed a “thrower” would make it truly over-the-top!
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I would also love a 26650 D4 or mini Q8.
With four XPLs it should do 4k+ lumen.
Onboard USB charging would be nice too.
Which optic/reflector remains a good question. The D4 TIR is too floody IMO. The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?
The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?
I would think the C8F triple reflector would be pretty close to the Q8. My guess would be a little bigger hotspot, so not as good throw, but still good and much brighter spill than a TIR. Here is a video of the C8F xpl to see the beam. Video by DB Custom.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
For the record, in my testing I always got the same or slightly better throw from TIR optics vs reflectors of the same size.
Assuming the TIR was properly match to the LED is use that is.
How was the spill brightness? I was really hoping to find a TIR setup that could come close to a reflector as far as beam proportions, hot spot size to spill brightness.
EDIT, I changed post 487 to better reflect what I was trying to say.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
TIR’s give you a larger hotspot then a reflector but that doesn’t mean less throw, they are simply better at collimating the beam.
I have dozens of TIR’s laying around here and I have tried all sorts of combos. The spill is usually better then you would expect unless the optic you got is specifically designed to not have any spill.
Unlike reflectors TIR’s are designed for a bunch of use cases and a whole lot more then size factors into what they give you.
In my case I did a lot of testing for my EDC tube light.
As a rule, the TIR gave more spill close to the hotspot, then there was a small area near the edge of the reflector beam where the reflector spill was slightly brighter. After the reflector spill cutoff though, the TIR spill kept going, just getting dimmer.
I prefer TIR optics in most cases, the beam is more pleasing.
I’d like a small, elegant, titanium light. BLF style.
Seeing how Astrolux sells their TI3A for $16 I can’t help but think that a much better BLF light has to be doable for $25 (preorder price). And I want one.
So:
10440 powered
e-switch, BLF UI
FET driver (FET+1 would be better, but if it complicates the build it’s not worth it)
CRI90 219c
clip
locator light
I think that LED locator would be cheaper than tritium. And if connected to the driver it could act as an indicator as well. Or with RGB led the colour could be configurable to best suit the garment.
I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing – yes). It would make the light thicker though.
I have no idea if this makes sense, but how about a headlight with a strip lens?
Here, a rough sketch of 18350 light with 5-6 XP-sized LEDs and Khatod pl1629. Size roughly 35×40mm.
!https://i.imgur.com/KiO8faf.png!
I’d like another light of this style.
18650 with 16 Yuji VTC-5730 LEDs. No overcurrent to maintain CRI 9790, ~400 OTF lumens.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
Agro wrote:
10440 powered
e-switch
I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing – yes). It would make the light thicker though.
A double-tube 10440 light doesn’t make much sense because it would lose the advantage of being thin. It’s also difficult to fit a complicated driver into something that size. But perhaps a 16340 light could work? It seems like it’d be a lot easier, at least.
I still want a BLF version of the Olight S-Mini.
I also still want a small BLF 14500 light. Could be like a smaller FW3A, could be like the brass AA clicky.
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
How would that differ from the Q8?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
How would that differ from the Q8?
Single reflector with a 35 HI or other throwy led. In my mind that was implied, but my mind is not always clear.
I’m sure there are lights like that already out there, they just need a driver swap. Maybe a Haikelite MT07S or Klarus G35 with one of Lexels drivers.
When his boost driver comes out you could build an even smaller thrower using a 26650. Like the Utorch uto2 which is very cheap.
Don’t wait for BLF to make it. Make it yourself! Lol
I have a MK35 that I might upgrade with a GT/Narsil driver and a 4000K or 4500K led swap. Wish me luck, I’m goin in! The 4000K in the GT has gotten me hooked. I just bought a MX30L4Cvn with XPL Hi 4000K which is now my favorite balanced light.
Texas Commander / LD4 style driver with FET on MCPCB, regulating the light all the way to peak output. Might place other components on MCPCB too it that’s needed to save space.
Ramping UI
Initial, somewhat incorrect sketch:
I drew it without glass protecting the lens. I’m not sure it that’s a great choice especially that bezel blocks some light, just like it is with S2+ triples.
And there is no place to put threads between head and body tube, so this is a unibody light with press-fit driver. Not sure if that’s feasible with USB and maybe a button on the other side. You can remove the driver by poking it from the optic side.
Why did I say “maybe a button on the other side”? Because I’m wondering if a button assembly plugged into USB slot wouldn’t be a good idea.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
It seems that “extremely compact for its battery type” is a very common desire. In general, I’d like to see more lights which are barely bigger than the fuel tank.
Unusually, I’d like to suggest not a from-scratch project but a special edition of existing light.
DQG Spy Ti which has low-bin XP-G2 replaced with Samsung LH351D. Warm CRI90. That’s it.
Well, extra points for shortening it to 10150 or 10160.
ADDED:
Or AR coated lens.
Or glow o-ring.
OK. There are a few things that could be done better.
But nevertheless this is a good light that’s extremely close to being a great light.
I’ve had the concept in my head for a long time…I made some drawings before…but just couldn’t make it right.
Now I managed to put all the pieces together.
Welcome A7, a pocket hotrod.
Features:
7 LEDs, XP sized. Dedomed Samsung LH351D would be my pick.
Though XP-L2 would turn it to a 5-second light
21700
Texas-Commander / LD4 style driver integrated with the LEDMCPCB regulating the light to 10+ amps. With Turbo above that.
Unibody
E-switch
DQG style tail cap
Here’s the drawing, next to a rough outline of Emisar D4.
No, I don’t.
I draw stuff pixel by pixel in gimp. This technique limits me heavily, but that’s what I’m capable of.
If you need larger, simply zoom it.
Yeah I have the Dc fix over my S41, not a great difference but I have left it on.
A BLF project used to be a nicer tint and a current boost, now it seems to be a complete ground up project pushing boundaries. I hope there remains room for both, I don’t have the time or inclination to do even minor mods unfortunately.
I’m still preferring the TIR option if I’m honest, I carry the S41 over the Q8 for walking.
If I go to the Q8 it replaces the C8, if I want more throw I take the Maxtoch (soon a GT hopefully). The constant always remains the little TIR for its great close range beam.
The TIR isn’t all to credit, the Nichia’s certainly help. The beam profile, tint and CRI all combine to make it useful close range.
Yes! I want a 10180 thrower! It should be fully optimized for throw by using a tiny emitter with good
brightness(brain fart – I can’t remember the right word) and a very well machined smooth reflector. Let’s build it!Edit: I just realized that I missed what you were saying almost entirely. I guess I turned off reading comprehension after “10180 thrower… “ I don’t really want any flashlight that doesn’t use a driver. I’m not familiar with that emitter or that optic. Can you tell me a little about why you chose those?
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
The LED is the current throw king:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58016
It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).
The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…
Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?
EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.
For me, the driver is desirable in order to get a nice UI. I wouldn’t necessarily want max output at all times either. It’s not so much about “regulation” as it is about “control”. I’m a little bit of a control freak, and I like having choices. It would also be insanely cool to have the NarsilM smooth ramping on such a minuscule light. That, coupled with it being classed a “thrower” would make it truly over-the-top!
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I would also love a 26650 D4 or mini Q8.
With four XPLs it should do 4k+ lumen.
Onboard USB charging would be nice too.
Which optic/reflector remains a good question. The D4 TIR is too floody IMO. The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?
I would think the C8F triple reflector would be pretty close to the Q8. My guess would be a little bigger hotspot, so not as good throw, but still good and much brighter spill than a TIR. Here is a video of the C8F xpl to see the beam. Video by DB Custom.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
For the record, in my testing I always got the same or slightly better throw from TIR optics vs reflectors of the same size.
Assuming the TIR was properly match to the LED is use that is.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
How was the spill brightness? I was really hoping to find a TIR setup that could come close to a reflector as far as beam proportions, hot spot size to spill brightness.
EDIT, I changed post 487 to better reflect what I was trying to say.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
TIR’s give you a larger hotspot then a reflector but that doesn’t mean less throw, they are simply better at collimating the beam.
I have dozens of TIR’s laying around here and I have tried all sorts of combos. The spill is usually better then you would expect unless the optic you got is specifically designed to not have any spill.
Unlike reflectors TIR’s are designed for a bunch of use cases and a whole lot more then size factors into what they give you.
In my case I did a lot of testing for my EDC tube light.
As a rule, the TIR gave more spill close to the hotspot, then there was a small area near the edge of the reflector beam where the reflector spill was slightly brighter. After the reflector spill cutoff though, the TIR spill kept going, just getting dimmer.
I prefer TIR optics in most cases, the beam is more pleasing.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Also someone mentioned frosted TIR, this second image is sorta what you will get if you diffuse it:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1244719#comment-1244719
Almost no hotspot and very nice spill, great for close range use.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
How about a really tiny lamp, using one AA cell or a 14500.
Similar to a UTorch 01, but with a better interface, and maybe a little more power…?
I’d like a small, elegant, titanium light. BLF style.
Seeing how Astrolux sells their TI3A for $16 I can’t help but think that a much better BLF light has to be doable for $25 (preorder price). And I want one.
So:
I think that LED locator would be cheaper than tritium. And if connected to the driver it could act as an indicator as well. Or with RGB led the colour could be configurable to best suit the garment.
I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing – yes). It would make the light thicker though.
Thoughts?
I’d like another light of this style.
18650 with 16 Yuji VTC-5730 LEDs. No overcurrent to maintain CRI 9790, ~400 OTF lumens.
A double-tube 10440 light doesn’t make much sense because it would lose the advantage of being thin. It’s also difficult to fit a complicated driver into something that size. But perhaps a 16340 light could work? It seems like it’d be a lot easier, at least.
I still want a BLF version of the Olight S-Mini.
I also still want a small BLF 14500 light. Could be like a smaller FW3A, could be like the brass AA clicky.
16340 or 14500 would work great in a woman’s purse, but not so well in a jacket’s inner pocket….too thick.
But I wonder what is the factor limiting minimum tube thickness? Size of PCB contacts? Strength necessary when joining them into one?
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
How would that differ from the Q8?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Single reflector with a 35 HI or other throwy led. In my mind that was implied, but my mind is not always clear.
I’m sure there are lights like that already out there, they just need a driver swap. Maybe a Haikelite MT07S or Klarus G35 with one of Lexels drivers.
When his boost driver comes out you could build an even smaller thrower using a 26650. Like the Utorch uto2 which is very cheap.
Don’t wait for BLF to make it. Make it yourself! Lol
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I have a MK35 that I might upgrade with a GT/Narsil driver and a 4000K or 4500K led swap. Wish me luck, I’m goin in! The 4000K in the GT has gotten me hooked. I just bought a MX30L4Cvn with XPL Hi 4000K which is now my favorite balanced light.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Extremely compact 21700 flashlight powerbank.
Initial, somewhat incorrect sketch:
I drew it without glass protecting the lens. I’m not sure it that’s a great choice especially that bezel blocks some light, just like it is with S2+ triples.
And there is no place to put threads between head and body tube, so this is a unibody light with press-fit driver. Not sure if that’s feasible with USB and maybe a button on the other side. You can remove the driver by poking it from the optic side.
Why did I say “maybe a button on the other side”? Because I’m wondering if a button assembly plugged into USB slot wouldn’t be a good idea.
It seems that “extremely compact for its battery type” is a very common desire. In general, I’d like to see more lights which are barely bigger than the fuel tank.
Unusually, I’d like to suggest not a from-scratch project but a special edition of existing light.
DQG Spy Ti which has low-bin XP-G2 replaced with Samsung LH351D. Warm CRI90. That’s it.
Well, extra points for shortening it to 10150 or 10160.
ADDED:
Or AR coated lens.
Or glow o-ring.
OK. There are a few things that could be done better.
But nevertheless this is a good light that’s extremely close to being a great light.
I’ve had the concept in my head for a long time…I made some drawings before…but just couldn’t make it right.
Now I managed to put all the pieces together.
Welcome A7, a pocket hotrod.
Features:
Here’s the drawing, next to a rough outline of Emisar D4.
Inspirations (alphabetically):
DB Custom’s Titanium X6, DQG Tiny 18650, DQG Tiny 26650, Emisar D4, Led4Power’s works, Zebralights
Do you have a bigger picture to share? (pm?)
No, I don’t.
I draw stuff pixel by pixel in gimp. This technique limits me heavily, but that’s what I’m capable of.
If you need larger, simply zoom it.
Why not use something like sketchup or solidworks…
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Sketchup doesn’t work on FreeBSD. I contemplated learning CAD before but never reached that point…
If anyone needs me, I’ll be over here crying.
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