making 3. Batch Texas Avenger "TA" / Bistro HD OTSM drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

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Lexel
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KFulton wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Soldering smd stuff for me is like firing a sniper rifle. I set up the shot, hold my breath and gently make quick contact to the joint. Then I breath and check my work. Lol

This is why I don’t even bother trying to use an iron for smd anymore. Solder paste + hot air is much easier.

Thats how I make those hot air gun and solder paste.

JasonWW
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KFulton wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Soldering smd stuff for me is like firing a sniper rifle. I set up the shot, hold my breath and gently make quick contact to the joint. Then I breath and check my work. Lol

This is why I don’t even bother trying to use an iron for smd anymore. Solder paste + hot air is much easier.


I only occasionally swap resistors or add leds in the 1206, 0805 range. So not very often. Hot air station for me doesn’t make sense cost wise. I’m okay with an iron, but a good magnifying head piece with lights built in might be my next purchase.

If I built drivers, then a hot air station might be worth the expense.

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Lexel
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I am trying to get the OTSM drivers to work,

first
does only get low mode, nothing else

the 2.
gets only low-medium-high
tapping often does not enter config mode
long clicks are not working at all

the 3. only in low mode

mattlward
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I have a helluf a time getting the parts to stay in place with hot air, even slowing the air flow rate way down. Is there a trick I am missing? Maybe I need to mount the board differently and hold the parts in place somehow. But, with a bunch of parts that is not likely to happen…

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

KFulton
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mattlward wrote:
I have a helluf a time getting the parts to stay in place with hot air, even slowing the air flow rate way down. Is there a trick I am missing? Maybe I need to mount the board differently and hold the parts in place somehow. But, with a bunch of parts that is not likely to happen…

You could try the skillet method for the side of the board that has the smaller components, and then hot-air the 7135 side.

KFulton
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Lexel wrote:
I am trying to get the OTSM drivers to work,

first
does only get low mode, nothing else

the 2.
gets only low-medium-high
tapping often does not enter config mode
long clicks are not working at all

the 3. only in low mode

Which size driver? Which configuration? (1S / etc) Is there a bleeder installed?

Lexel
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KFulton wrote:
Lexel wrote:
I am trying to get the OTSM drivers to work,

first
does only get low mode, nothing else

the 2.
gets only low-medium-high
tapping often does not enter config mode
long clicks are not working at all

the 3. only in low mode

Which size driver? Which configuration? (1S / etc) Is there a bleeder installed?

17mm
Attiny 25V
no bleeder

1S R1 1k / R2 3.3k
and
2S LDO R1 1.78k/ R2 2.21k

I got the feeling the resistors are maybe switched in manual description R1 smaler than and R2 is opposite to normal Bistro drivers?

build and flashed like in Flintrocks topic
avrdude -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m

avrdude -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-LDO-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m

P.S.
the 2S LDO needs a diode which is not present at the 17mm board, so I need to piggyback this

Lexel
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OK adding the diode to the 17mm 2S worked, its now alright

maybe the hex file he delivers is corrupted for 1S

KFulton
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Lexel wrote:
OK adding the diode to the 17mm 2S worked, its now alright

maybe the hex file he delivers is corrupted for 1S

You can try the file I gave you for 1S, but the modes are customized:

battcheck <- turbo <- very low <- STARTS HERE low -> 1×7135 -> all7135s

edit: facts

Lexel
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I figured it out

I made a mistake and populated C1 with 10uF instead of 1uF
used to do always 10uF there for Narsil and TA Bistro drivers

reflowing a 1uF solved the problem

Lexel
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Minor adjustments to OP

added info about NarsilM
Prices reduced slightly for OTSM and LDO due to quantity discount and a cheaper tantal cap with same specs
if you got Bistro HD OTSM message me to get this new OTSM part prices and a paypal refund as the original pricing was too high

as Oshpark was so kind and did more 46mm with correct solder mask I refunded the 2/3 costs on this size

to show the price difference from flintrocks suggested tantal cap to another brand with identical specs
prices does not include 19% import tax

Lexel
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I did some changes for 2S Narsil lights

the shut down voltage should be highter if the cells are not perfectly matched
not going below 3V per cell here

in a 1S light lower is no problem, but 2S needs some buffer

all SIR800 FETs are used now

Mr.Scott
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Lexel wrote:
I figured it out

I made a mistake and populated C1 with 10uF instead of 1uF
used to do always 10uF there for Narsil and TA Bistro drivers

reflowing a 1uF solved the problem

Thumbs Up

Great news! Thanks!

tekwyzrd
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Lexel wrote:
Minor adjustments to OP

added info about NarsilM
Prices reduced slightly for OTSM and LDO due to quantity discount and a cheaper tantal cap with same specs
if you got Bistro HD OTSM message me to get this new OTSM part prices and a paypal refund as the original pricing was too high

as Oshpark was so kind and did more 46mm with correct solder mask I refunded the 2/3 costs on this size

Pleasant surprise but if given the choice I’d rather you had kept it and had a Beer as thanks for the time and work on these drivers. That said, I respect the decision and would do the same in a similar situation. You have my respect and appreciation and I look forward to the possibility of future offerings.

Nothing travels faster than the speed of light with the possible exception of bad news, which obeys its own special laws. – Douglas Adams

Lexel
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good news Kaidomain delivered 10 short and 10 long 6mm diameter springs today

here a pic, why 15mm Bistro OTSM is a bad idea as the driver has no C2, R1 and R2 pad
R1 and R2 are soldered together with the red wire in the middle and soldered under the Attiny25V to pin4 of the MCU
C2 sits on the indicator LED resistor with cut trace on one end
solder bridge from diode to C2
looks a bit messy as I had also to change C1 from 10 to 1uF

and my 38.5mm Cuoroi LDO piggyback 2S/3P
driver needs to be cleaned from solder paste and flux residue which got there getting it on the LDO legs and C2 soldered

today springs came from Kaidomain, so I soldered them for the people who dont think they can do it, it adds 2.5$ shipping costs and 0.5$ for soldering
on the 17mm driver with long springs its a tight fit

Lexel
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One thing discovered with Bistro OTSM 2S

2S LDO setup does not support LVP as it uses the internal voltage reference compared to MCU voltage
problem is the LDO gives the MCO constant 5V

JasonWW
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Have you tried out the lvp on the LDO Narsil M yet? I hope it’s working well.

Btw, on my order I just want the long spring loose. I can solder it on.

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Lexel
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so did the Bistro drivers I assembled so far
and the Narsil v1.4

I had 2 drivers where in 2S operation one AMC7135 had this parasitic drain issue when the driver is in sleep mode
they are oficially not build for 8.4V

still waiting on boards from Oshpark that I have ordered later as more were requested than originaly planned

I printed the shiping addresses with information which drivers and export declaration
then used residue tape to fix the drivers where they belong
also wrote on the tape the drivers specs

just amazing that big order from Kawiboy

Lexel
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cant compile NarsilM there are bugs in the firmware Tom E needs to check

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1134591#comment-1134591

JasonWW
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If it’s giving you trouble, then you can revert my order back to the original v1.2 with lvp. I’m fine with that.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Lexel
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very bad news I got here a lot faulty Atmel Attin85s

all on the last reflowed boards can be flashed only once,
after correcting temperature offset I want to flash em again,
but they all get me an error

I even took a brand new one out of the cut tape and flashed em, same problem
this affects one 22mm, 3 46mm and all the chips I have in the cut tape

DavidEF
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Are you sure it’s the chips that are bad? Maybe there’s a problem occurring in the first flashing process that makes the chip not able to be re-flashed?

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Lexel
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I did flash the other chips of that cut tape with identical settings with Narsil v1.4
I tested 3 chips of the new ones with the same error

I even did flash one of the ones I flashed before with temperature setting and it worked without any problem

Lexel
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I ordered 10 Attiny85 chips from another source here in Germany

NarsilM is also now ready to be flashed so I can do 6 30mm boards as well

Lexel
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so a lot orders are shipped
the first 2 or 3 ones were done shipping today, but then the rest will picked up Tuesday,
because the driver came who picks up the stuff from that post office came when I did the first envelops and filled out stuff for the othen ones

tracking numbers can be seen here
https://www.deutschepost.de/sendung/simpleQuery.html?locale=en_GB

date of today 03. June 2017
and your RR tracking number
the tracking most likely will start when they get picked up Tuesday


tekwyzrd
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Thanks, Lexel! This is the second positive event today. The fwd clicky switch was finally delivered and now I see the drivers shipped… excellent!

Nothing travels faster than the speed of light with the possible exception of bad news, which obeys its own special laws. – Douglas Adams

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Ok, sorry to be a bother. I haven’t followed every post here. I was trying to figure out if it’s possible I could get a driver for the Courui D01. I looked at the OP, but I’m not sure I’m understanding all the options and how they add up together. I guess it would be the 38.5mm driver, so that costs a bit extra for being a larger size. I want NarsilM if you’ve got it worked out, or whatever is the latest working version. I will do temp calibration myself. I want the standard amount of 7135’s on board. And it will be used with the normal 1S3P set-up of the Courui, with a ~3V LED, so I don’t need LDO and the LVP should be set for 1S operation with the standard values. I also don’t need a spring provided because I have springs of my own.

So, first, can I order one, or is it too late? Secondly, if it’s okay to order, what is the total price with shipping to the US? I tried to calculate it myself, but I’m not sure if I got it right. Please check and let me know.

  1. NarsilM with LVP calibration ….. $15.00
  2. Extra cost for 38.5mm board …… $2.85
  3. Envelope Shipping Worldwide …. $2.00
  4. Add for tracking and insurance … $3.00

Total would be $22.85is that correct?

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Oh, just looked again at post #2 and it appears that three 38.5mm drivers have already been ordered. I don’t need 3x of those myself. If any more get made, I’d like to get one.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
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Lexel
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DavidEF wrote:
Oh, just looked again at post #2 and it appears that three 38.5mm drivers have already been ordered. I don’t need 3x of those myself. If any more get made, I’d like to get one.

yeah for this batch all 38.5mm boards are sold

vinte77 got his order reduced to one Narsil

so one Bistro HD OTSM is availiable again

Kenjii
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Hi,

my drivers came in today. Looks very good.

Can someone tell me where to connect the eSwitch on the 17mm Driver?

Regards

Kenjii

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