making 3. Batch Texas Avenger "TA" / Bistro HD OTSM drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

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Lj-_-
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Hi Lexel, do you have any 30mm with narsil left?
I would like one for the L6 with LVP if possible, Thanks Smile

Lexel
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I can build most of the driver, but I got no more FETs left

Lj-_-
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That’s fine. I could get the FET’s and solder them myself.

Would that still be OK? If not, no worries. Thumbs Up

Btw where do you get your FET’s from?

solRNY
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JasonWW wrote:
solRNY wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
solRNY wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
It’s odd they are so different. Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.


Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.


Oh cool! It’s good to know that 22ga can cut exactly 1.5 amp over 18ga.

A trick you can do with the wire is get the solder liquid and then remove the iron and quickly press down on the joint with something flat and metal. It will flatten the joint so that only the insulation will touch the reflector.

i was thinking the same, so i swap out the 22awg wires for 16awg wires, to my surprise the current only increased by .5A and measures 11A at the TC.

JasonWW
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That’s strange. Still, it’s plenty of light, though! Lol

I usually adjust my light to just below max to get better run time and less heat.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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tekwyzrd
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Lexel wrote:
Another solution is to use a Dremel and remove some material on the reflectors base And use some tape to protect the reflector from dust

or pieces of copper sheet or flattened strips of copper water line.

Nothing travels faster than the speed of light with the possible exception of bad news, which obeys its own special laws. – Douglas Adams

Lj-_-
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Lexel wrote:
I can build most of the driver, but I got no more FETs left

Or I could build the driver myself if you haven’t got the time, so long as you could flash the MCU?
Lexel
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NarsilM flashed for 1S or 2S without temperature calibration is not a problem

Lj-_-
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Lexel wrote:
NarsilM flashed for 1S or 2S without temperature calibration is not a problem

Is that built on a board or MCU on it’s own?
Either way is fine, if just MCU on it’s own I’d still need a 30mm board and then I could get the rest of the parts myself, unless you would supply the rest as a kit? I don’t mind either way so long as I’m not messing you about, it’s very decent of you to even offer this Smile
solRNY
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so i decided to change out the 18awg for 16awg on my s70, took me a while to figure out how not to short thru the reflector. now it draws 12.5A – 12.9A at the TC with fresh Littokala. but the wried thing is i think the color is shifting from bluish on turbo to yellowish at lower setting. don’t think i recall this before.

JasonWW
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solRNY wrote:
so i decided to change out the 18awg for 16awg on my s70, took me a while to figure out how not to short thru the reflector. now it draws 12.5A – 12.9A at the TC with fresh Littokala. but the wried thing is i think the color is shifting from bluish on turbo to yellowish at lower setting. don’t think i recall this before.

If it’s starting to go bluish, then it’s getting too hot. Make sure the star surfaces are making good contact to the flashlight body and that you have good thermal grease on there. The reflector should be pressing the star down with some force.

On my L6 I was using copper shims under the star to adjust my reflector focus, but it wasn’t transferring the heat well enough and started to shift to blue. I removed all shims and it stopped doing that.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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solRNY
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took apart the s70 again, and notice there is a dimple center to the led hot spot!!
don’t think i can do anything about this… spread around a little more thermal grease, screw the reflector as tight can i can, still i am getting that bluish shift in color

Mr.Scott
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My drivers arrived today. Thank you Lexel!

JasonWW
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What is this piece? Is it the edge of the copper folded over making a high spot or just thermal grease?

Does the color shift get Bluer and Bluer or does it stabilize? Because at high power these emitters do tend to get cooler in color but it’s a stable color.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

solRNY
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i think it is thermal grease. not sure the stuff i have is any good, hy710.
the cooler color is stable, thanks for your advice Smile

i can see the donut on turbo power, and this is with the OP relfector

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