If you created the ultimate light, capable of producing an infinite amount of your preferred light quality in the perfect beam pattern for your intended use, at will, out of thin air, with the whole mechanism stored in another dimension so it has no volume or weight, we wouldn’t like it, because there would be nothing to look at or collect, only results.
What use are results?!! We want collectibles, and we want them in a rigidly defined schedule of unpredictability.
Thank you for showing us that the keyboard is mightier than the M16.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
The prototype’s pretty much the same size as the last one. Neal’s just got a talent to find unflattering angles As soon as we get it in our hands we’ll post some more pictures and details.
The new prototype looks big. Hope that’s an illusion. How come there’s prototypes being sent out randomly but no actual communication?
I think that is just an optical illusion. I thought the same thing when I first saw that picture above.
.
.
The below is taken from the first post & gives a very good size comparison photo.
The FW3A
Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15
Runs on a single 18650 battery.
94.8 × 25.5 mm
First prototype:
Size reference:
.
. Proto 1 (post 1) vs Proto 2 (M4DM4X picture above)
.
.
It looks like the main external design difference between 1 & 2 is the addition of a small taper in front of the tailcap on #2.
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You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The person holding the light has small hands, so the light appears bigger than it really is.
M4D M4X doesn’t have a prototype… or tiny hands. Neal got excited and sent pics to several people.
The photos seem to be taken from up close where there is a lot of perspective distortion, which makes it look weird.
The finish looks pretty odd in the photos, so we’re waiting to see it in person. Maybe the final product won’t be anodized, or maybe it’ll have more traditional anodizing, but … hopefully it won’t look like today’s unflattering photos.
With any luck, proto2 should show up soon for testing, hopefully with the internal changes completed as requested.
I’m not bothered by the taper; I just don’t like this sort of finish. In an ideal world, it’d be the same sort of finish as the blf 348; of course this is a different thing.
I’m not bothered by the taper; I just don’t like this sort of finish. In an ideal world, it’d be the same sort of finish as the blf 348; of course this is a different thing.
What type finish is it?? Is it bead blasted or what…. I can’t tell.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The BLF-348 is bare steel. The FW3A is not steel, but it could potentially be bare aluminum depending on how things go.
I prefer natural anodize to bare aluminum.
I find bare aluminum transmits heat to my hand much faster than anodized aluminum. The result is hot-rodded high-lumen lights are much less practical. I have to ramp down earlier to avoid burning my hand.
The BLF-348 is bare steel. The FW3A is not steel, but it could potentially be bare aluminum depending on how things go.
OK, thank you TK.
Like I said earlier, I am good with whatever it turns out to be.
A preference is clear anodized…. but certainly not a deal breaker in any way if it is not. It would not even bother me if it had a lightly blasted finish.
I’m easy to please on this one……..
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The BLF-348 is bare steel. The FW3A is not steel, but it could potentially be bare aluminum depending on how things go.
I prefer natural anodize to bare aluminum.
I find bare aluminum transmits heat to my hand much faster than anodized aluminum. The result is hot-rodded high-lumen lights are much less practical. I have to ramp down earlier to avoid burning my hand.
Well in that case, why not reduce the threshold temperature and let it do that for you? Generally conductivity is thought to be a good thing; isn’t it?
I saw some bare aluminum recently that looked pretty nice.
They call it raw, tumbled aluminum.
Dont want to link to picture so I’ll just put a link if anyone wants to see it.
I saw some bare aluminum recently that looked pretty nice.
They call it raw, tumbled aluminum.
Dont want to link to picture so I’ll just put a link if anyone wants to see it.
They all look great to me. Just ordered a D4, can’t wait any longer to burn a flashlight profile into my hands, but I am keen to have both now to compare, and it looks like a holster made for one will fit the other so edc rotation works
The BLF-348 is bare steel. The FW3A is not steel, but it could potentially be bare aluminum depending on how things go.
I prefer natural anodize to bare aluminum.
I find bare aluminum transmits heat to my hand much faster than anodized aluminum. The result is hot-rodded high-lumen lights are much less practical. I have to ramp down earlier to avoid burning my hand.
Well in that case, why not reduce the threshold temperature and let it do that for you? Generally conductivity is thought to be a good thing; isn’t it?
For this kind of light, no.
Once heat gets to the outside of the light emissivity is a good thing. Conductivity, not so much. The interior of the light and the battery can all take much more heat than my hand can. All removing the anodizing on a light like this does is make it so I can’t run it in turbo as long. There’s really no upside.
This light doesn’t have a lot of thermal mass or a lot of surface area. If you want something which runs at 3000+ lumens for more than a few seconds without getting hot, this isn’t the light you’re looking for. It’s simply not big enough… so its turbo level is really a “burst only” mode, much like the D4-219c.
The default settings place the ceiling at the 8×7135 level though, which it can sustain quite a bit longer than full turbo. Last time I tested that, it looked like this:
I am really excited about this light. Any way you can post dimensions?
thanks
Thank you for showing us that the keyboard is mightier than the M16.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Post #1 says 94.8 × 25.5 mm. There are also size comparison pictures.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I’m #27 on the list, I’d like to request another light please. Thank you.
I’d like to be on the list for two lights if there is availability still? Thank you
Love the new prototype! Looks great!!!!
The new prototype looks big. Hope that’s an illusion. How come there’s prototypes being sent out randomly but no actual communication?
Card Carrying CRI baby
The prototype’s pretty much the same size as the last one. Neal’s just got a talent to find unflattering angles
As soon as we get it in our hands we’ll post some more pictures and details.
.
.
The below is taken from the first post & gives a very good size comparison photo.
The FW3A
Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15
Runs on a single 18650 battery.
94.8 × 25.5 mm
First prototype:
Size reference:
.
.
Proto 1 (post 1) vs Proto 2 (M4DM4X picture above)
.
.
It looks like the main external design difference between 1 & 2 is the addition of a small taper in front of the tailcap on #2.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
But, since fritz15 designed this light, I’ll be good with whatever he gives the final OK on.
But, that being said… the proto with taper is nice!!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Still like Fritz’ original design best (taper schmaper
)
link to djozz tests
FWIW, a few notes about the LT proto2 photos:
With any luck, proto2 should show up soon for testing, hopefully with the internal changes completed as requested.
Alright, I’m gunna bite. Put me down for 2 please!
I’m not bothered by the taper; I just don’t like this sort of finish. In an ideal world, it’d be the same sort of finish as the blf 348; of course this is a different thing.
Card Carrying CRI baby
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The BLF-348 is bare steel. The FW3A is not steel, but it could potentially be bare aluminum depending on how things go.
I find bare aluminum transmits heat to my hand much faster than anodized aluminum. The result is hot-rodded high-lumen lights are much less practical. I have to ramp down earlier to avoid burning my hand.
If I had to say something about this, I would probably prefer an anodized version instead of bare aluminium! But let’s see how things evolve
It’s good to have these updates
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Like I said earlier, I am good with whatever it turns out to be.
A preference is clear anodized…. but certainly not a deal breaker in any way if it is not. It would not even bother me if it had a lightly blasted finish.
I’m easy to please on this one……..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Well in that case, why not reduce the threshold temperature and let it do that for you? Generally conductivity is thought to be a good thing; isn’t it?
Card Carrying CRI baby
I saw some bare aluminum recently that looked pretty nice.
They call it raw, tumbled aluminum.
Dont want to link to picture so I’ll just put a link if anyone wants to see it.
https://countycomm.com/collections/whats-new/products/raw-tumbled-peanut...
Interest list updated.
- TK
FW3A thread – contact Neal on BLF or email for FW3A questions and support
I could go for that.
Card Carrying CRI baby
They all look great to me. Just ordered a D4, can’t wait any longer to burn a flashlight profile into my hands, but I am keen to have both now to compare, and it looks like a holster made for one will fit the other so edc rotation works
Beam me up!
I would like to buy two uf these please
I like flashlights, not computers.
I like it!
Can I please be added for a 2nd light!
I’m currently #783 on the list.
FB
Hmmm… The struggle is real when it comes to communication I guess. And not just about lights……
And… it would not be any better if the shoe was on the other foot & the ‘English speakers’ were required to speak Chinese……
.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Once heat gets to the outside of the light emissivity is a good thing. Conductivity, not so much. The interior of the light and the battery can all take much more heat than my hand can. All removing the anodizing on a light like this does is make it so I can’t run it in turbo as long. There’s really no upside.
This light doesn’t have a lot of thermal mass or a lot of surface area. If you want something which runs at 3000+ lumens for more than a few seconds without getting hot, this isn’t the light you’re looking for. It’s simply not big enough… so its turbo level is really a “burst only” mode, much like the D4-219c.
The default settings place the ceiling at the 8×7135 level though, which it can sustain quite a bit longer than full turbo. Last time I tested that, it looked like this:
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