This light is going to get a lot of use, I appreciate the taper under the clip.
I used to just let them bounce around in the bottom of my pocket, a straight light across a curved leg looked like I was carrying a roll of quarters all the time.
Gunga convinced me to start using a clip and now it’s a deal-breaker for my EDC. Hands get dirty at work and I can just slip out my clipped light with 2 fingers without dirtying up my pants.
It’s a little thing, but when it’s dragging out of your pants 20x a day the wear adds up.
The design looks similar to HDS but a fraction of the cost, moddable, native 18650 support, and comes with an even better UI. (IMHO)
I’ve been a fan of HDS, Liteflux, and Novatac because of the flexibility programmable lights offer and, more importantly, they have onboard battery protection.
It’s probably irrational for onboard protection to be such an issue for me, but fewer points of failure and not having that strip of doom going down the side of my battery eases my mind.
With any luck this will be the first in a whole lineup of lights like this. One for all of the li-ion battery sizes!!
Yes, it is about the same size as some older CR123-based lights. I see 94.0 × 25.4 mm listed for the HDS Rotary CR123, and the FW3A is 94.8 × 25.5 mm. So almost identical size, but it uses 1×18650 instead of 1xCR123. Much greater battery capacity and much higher maximum brightness.
● I only have them behind a 10507 optic and that looks good: big smooth hotspot (1.5 times the size of 219B in that same optic), despite the large die no weird squares like XP-L Hi.
● no idea, the die and dome are quite large so the optic may not be as efficient as with small leds, and the light is very spread out.
The triple 10507 optic light (Jaxman E2L) with 4000K 90 CRI LH351D on an Aspire 18350 cell does 1800 lumen, on a 18650 cell a bit more, but you loose a bit again with the frosted optic.
In general in your table the outputs are optimistic, in a small light like the FW3A you only get such numbers in the first second, maybe.
Is it available in high CRI 5000K, or only warmer?
How does the beam look in a 10511 optic?
How many lumens / candelas does it get in a 10511 optic?
More generally, I’m trying to fill in a comparison table accurately. Any corrections or extra info would be helpful.
I expect 4000+ lm with LH351D CRI70 5000k, 3400+ lm with LH351D CRI90 5000k in a clear optic. 12A current draw. For 10511 CRI90 prediction drops to 3300+, CRI70 stays.
Warmer tints are less efficient. These numbers are rather conservative, mostly because current draw should be higher.
1.5 cd/lm with 10511 and 2 with 10507? That’s very imprecise.
● I only have them behind a 10507 optic and that looks good: big smooth hotspot (1.5 times the size of 219B in that same optic), despite the large die no weird squares like XP-L Hi.
● no idea, the die and dome are quite large so the optic may not be as efficient as with small leds, and the light is very spread out.
The triple 10507 optic light (Jaxman E2L) with 4000K 90 CRI LH351D on an Aspire 18350 cell does 1800 lumen, on a 18650 cell a bit more, but you loose a bit again with the frosted optic.
In general in your table the outputs are optimistic, in a small light like the FW3A you only get such numbers in the first second, maybe.
I have a triple samsung 4000k in a Convoy S2 mod. They are very nice and give a huge hot spot. I have to get which optic and specific emitter are being used. Not as pink as an XP-L Hi. Would find these to be an awesome choice for this light! Extremely smooth beam and minimal weird outer distortion.
Guys, it’s way to early to actually produce this light. It was predicted for 2018. To have it produced before 2019 would be to shatter reality as we know it.
Guys, it’s way to early to actually produce this light. It was predicted for 2018. To have it produced before 2019 would be to shatter reality as we know it.
Hmmm…. Why do you say or think that??
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I think the LH351D might be an awesome choice, actually. While those who want throw out of a small light might be disappointed, it doesn't seem to have the issues that the 219c and xpl hi have - The 219c would be pushed to run hotter and has less output, while the xpl hi would have low color quality and raise the price, with the maximum lumens perhaps 1/4 more than the 219c. The xp-g2 and xp-g3 have their own issues; the xp-g2 has the lowest output and the same low cri, and the xpg3 has poor beam consistency as far as tint goes although it gains more output in exchange for more heat. The LH351D however seems to be possessed of only one main trait that might not appeal to people, which is that it has a wide, smooth hotspot and not a tighter beam. I think that's fine personally; I will not be using this as any sort of thrower.
Maukka is very impressed by the LH351D's color quality in his /r/flashlight post on reddit "Samsung LH351D is a winner" especially on higher outputs. It is not plagued by tint shift across the beam, but it does rise above the BBL at low current (1x7135 or less, essentially) about as much as a 219c does. Its output is seemingly identical to the xp-g3's, and is much closer to the xpl hi than to the 219c. Should be about 9/10 as bright as the xpl on turbo; I doubt I could tell the output difference reliably. It'll be a nice floody beam with good color quality though. Maukka says that when using a mild minus green filter that lowered the color below the BBL, it took on a very nice quality of light comparable to a 219b sw40k, though of course with higher output.
Aircraft Kapton-insulated electrical wiring has been widely used in civil and military aircraft because it is lighter than other insulators and has good insulating and temperature characteristics. However, Kapton insulation ages poorly: an FAA study shows degradation in under 100 hours in a hot, humid environment, or in the presence of seawater. It was found to have very poor resistance to mechanical wear, mainly abrasion within cable harnesses due to aircraft movement. Many aircraft models have had to undergo extensive rewiring modifications—sometimes completely replacing all the Kapton-insulated wiring—because of short circuits caused by the faulty insulation. Kapton-wire degradation and chafing due to vibration and heat has been implicated in multiple crashes of both fixed wing and rotary wing aircraft, with loss of life.
Spacecraft
The descent stage of the Apollo Lunar Module, and the bottom of the ascent stage surrounding the ascent engine, were covered in blankets of aluminized Kapton foil to provide thermal insulation. During the return journey from the Moon, Apollo 11 astronaut Neil Armstrong commented that during the launch of the Lunar Module ascent stage, he could see “Kapton and other parts on the LM staging scattering all around the area for great distances.” [7]
According to a NASA internal report, space shuttle “wires were coated with an insulator known as Kapton that tended to break down over time, causing short circuits and, potentially, fires.”
ToyKeeper wrote:
Oops, I broke the body-to-pill O-ring on my prototype today. …
HDS uses CR123/16340 cells, that have about 1/5 the capacity of the 18350 in the FW3A, which is also over 15x brighter than the HDS Ra Clicky
as you can read below, the HDS and the FW3A are about the same size:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Yes, it is about the same size as some older CR123-based lights. I see 94.0 × 25.4 mm listed for the HDS Rotary CR123, and the FW3A is 94.8 × 25.5 mm. So almost identical size, but it uses 1×18650 instead of 1xCR123. Much greater battery capacity and much higher maximum brightness.
I like the second one better, smooth center reduced section looks clean.
good cause thats the FW3A, this thread is about.
I think you missed the point. Those people were saying they prefer the smooth Center section over a knurled center section. It didn’t have anything to do with the model of light.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
This light is going to get a lot of use, I appreciate the taper under the clip.
I used to just let them bounce around in the bottom of my pocket, a straight light across a curved leg looked like I was carrying a roll of quarters all the time.
Gunga convinced me to start using a clip and now it’s a deal-breaker for my EDC. Hands get dirty at work and I can just slip out my clipped light with 2 fingers without dirtying up my pants.
It’s a little thing, but when it’s dragging out of your pants 20x a day the wear adds up.
The design looks similar to HDS but a fraction of the cost, moddable, native 18650 support, and comes with an even better UI. (IMHO)
I’ve been a fan of HDS, Liteflux, and Novatac because of the flexibility programmable lights offer and, more importantly, they have onboard battery protection.
It’s probably irrational for onboard protection to be such an issue for me, but fewer points of failure and not having that strip of doom going down the side of my battery eases my mind.
With any luck this will be the first in a whole lineup of lights like this. One for all of the li-ion battery sizes!!
I like this design.
Oh! Fritz first design, well
Now I, see it better.
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
You know, I just realized that this is likely the same size as an hds that uses cr123 batteries!
I just sold my hds rotary. That should give me enough $ to buy about 5 of these!
Yes, it is about the same size as some older CR123-based lights. I see 94.0 × 25.4 mm listed for the HDS Rotary CR123, and the FW3A is 94.8 × 25.5 mm. So almost identical size, but it uses 1×18650 instead of 1xCR123. Much greater battery capacity and much higher maximum brightness.
This light is the perfect size and the added bonus of how programmable the driver is, think this might find a new home in my pocket.
I would like to get in on this and order 2.
Interested
Some questions about the LH351D…
More generally, I’m trying to fill in a comparison table accurately. Any corrections or extra info would be helpful.
Can’t answer these, but may I suggest to consider – at least on a “trial” comparison – the Luxeon V ?
Thanks for the efforts on this!!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
● it does exist, the datasheet says 90CRI goes up to 6000K, and there is a 5000K 90CRI one at Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SPHW...
● I only have them behind a 10507 optic and that looks good: big smooth hotspot (1.5 times the size of 219B in that same optic), despite the large die no weird squares like XP-L Hi.
● no idea, the die and dome are quite large so the optic may not be as efficient as with small leds, and the light is very spread out.
The triple 10507 optic light (Jaxman E2L) with 4000K 90 CRI LH351D on an Aspire 18350 cell does 1800 lumen, on a 18650 cell a bit more, but you loose a bit again with the frosted optic.
In general in your table the outputs are optimistic, in a small light like the FW3A you only get such numbers in the first second, maybe.
link to djozz tests
I’m really not sure how many lumens to expect from a high-CRI LH351D triple, compared to other options.
I would like to purchase one of these. Please add me onto the list.
The list will be updated later
I’m sorry, now I’m with the smarphone (Mobile phone), and I need the PC
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
I expect 4000+ lm with LH351D CRI70 5000k, 3400+ lm with LH351D CRI90 5000k in a clear optic. 12A current draw. For 10511 CRI90 prediction drops to 3300+, CRI70 stays.
Warmer tints are less efficient. These numbers are rather conservative, mostly because current draw should be higher.
1.5 cd/lm with 10511 and 2 with 10507? That’s very imprecise.
ADDED:
If LH351D was to get dedomed, I’d say:
I have a triple samsung 4000k in a Convoy S2 mod. They are very nice and give a huge hot spot. I have to get which optic and specific emitter are being used. Not as pink as an XP-L Hi. Would find these to be an awesome choice for this light! Extremely smooth beam and minimal weird outer distortion.
I’ll take one
Guys, it’s way to early to actually produce this light. It was predicted for 2018. To have it produced before 2019 would be to shatter reality as we know it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I'd like one depending on the final price. Thank you for your good hard work!
I’m liking the look of the Samsung LEDs just because they won’t run as hot as 219Cs and kill themselves.
I also like flood.
I think the LH351D might be an awesome choice, actually. While those who want throw out of a small light might be disappointed, it doesn't seem to have the issues that the 219c and xpl hi have - The 219c would be pushed to run hotter and has less output, while the xpl hi would have low color quality and raise the price, with the maximum lumens perhaps 1/4 more than the 219c. The xp-g2 and xp-g3 have their own issues; the xp-g2 has the lowest output and the same low cri, and the xpg3 has poor beam consistency as far as tint goes although it gains more output in exchange for more heat. The LH351D however seems to be possessed of only one main trait that might not appeal to people, which is that it has a wide, smooth hotspot and not a tighter beam. I think that's fine personally; I will not be using this as any sort of thrower.
Maukka is very impressed by the LH351D's color quality in his /r/flashlight post on reddit "Samsung LH351D is a winner" especially on higher outputs. It is not plagued by tint shift across the beam, but it does rise above the BBL at low current (1x7135 or less, essentially) about as much as a 219c does. Its output is seemingly identical to the xp-g3's, and is much closer to the xpl hi than to the 219c. Should be about 9/10 as bright as the xpl on turbo; I doubt I could tell the output difference reliably. It'll be a nice floody beam with good color quality though. Maukka says that when using a mild minus green filter that lowered the color below the BBL, it took on a very nice quality of light comparable to a 219b sw40k, though of course with higher output.
Card Carrying CRI baby
I’d be excited to see a production light use the LH351D, but then I’m always good with 219Cs.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Interested!
Just to give an idea how much better the LH351D is compared to an XP-G3 in a clear TIR with regard to tint shift.
Nude Gnus is Good Gnus?
and Kapton tape in lieu of spacershttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton
Aircraft
Kapton-insulated electrical wiring has been widely used in civil and military aircraft because it is lighter than other insulators and has good insulating and temperature characteristics. However, Kapton insulation ages poorly: an FAA study shows degradation in under 100 hours in a hot, humid environment, or in the presence of seawater. It was found to have very poor resistance to mechanical wear, mainly abrasion within cable harnesses due to aircraft movement. Many aircraft models have had to undergo extensive rewiring modifications—sometimes completely replacing all the Kapton-insulated wiring—because of short circuits caused by the faulty insulation. Kapton-wire degradation and chafing due to vibration and heat has been implicated in multiple crashes of both fixed wing and rotary wing aircraft, with loss of life.
Spacecraft
well done, thats what prototypes are forThe descent stage of the Apollo Lunar Module, and the bottom of the ascent stage surrounding the ascent engine, were covered in blankets of aluminized Kapton foil to provide thermal insulation. During the return journey from the Moon, Apollo 11 astronaut Neil Armstrong commented that during the launch of the Lunar Module ascent stage, he could see “Kapton and other parts on the LM staging scattering all around the area for great distances.” [7]
According to a NASA internal report, space shuttle “wires were coated with an insulator known as Kapton that tended to break down over time, causing short circuits and, potentially, fires.”
knurling in the waistline would feel legendary..
"High CRI Lights for Sale":https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75426
I like the second one better, smooth center reduced section looks clean.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
the top light is a Titanium HDS Ra Clicky that sold a couple of years ago for $650, over 15x the cost of the FW3A.
HDS uses CR123/16340 cells, that have about 1/5 the capacity of the 18350 in the FW3A, which is also over 15x brighter than the HDS Ra Clicky
as you can read below, the HDS and the FW3A are about the same size:
"High CRI Lights for Sale":https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75426
I think you missed the point. Those people were saying they prefer the smooth Center section over a knurled center section. It didn’t have anything to do with the model of light.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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