Wyre wrote:

Would love to see this flashlight in bronze, brass, or copper… no coating or anything. Just let it age naturally.

The Miller wrote:

aginthelaw wrote:

i’ll take one of each (assuming a copper and titanium version will follow). otherwise, just this one

heheh this is the A Who knows when this is a success B C and T might follow. Brass Copper Titanium (dang that it is not called Ditanium :D, can somebody ask the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry to change Ti to Di for us ))

Will update list later

DB Custom wrote:

Ok, first of all, yes indeed I wanted to run out to the shop and make my own, straight away! But the pain in my left arm and shoulder is just too intense to attempt it.

The squared shoulders give a nice grip to this small of a light, allowing a light (not heavy) grip without losing it. The bead blasted finish also helps the light feel easy to grip, instead of slick as it would be if it were straight off the lathe in a polished style. If the machining is run slightly faster the tiny microscopic grooves or lines from the cutting tool will also give grip, almost invisible but felt in the hand.

I would like to see it remain square shouldered, with the bead blasted and anodized clear.

If the logo or namesake could be cut clean through the inner tube before it is anodized that would be very neat, lessening the weight of the tube while giving a stylish report of where the light got it’s origins. I believe there is a new Manker light that has the name Manker cut clean through the pocket clip, it’s in this style that I’m referring.

And in this post, my 2 cents are cast.

Thanks for the input, I found this light. That is indeed a good idea, we will consider that. Cutting something into the inner tube would also be quite cool, but I’d be a little scared that it created sharp edges which could rub of the plastic protection on the 18650 batteries when exchanging the batteries.

Xoden wrote:

So 20 or 22? It’s hard to guess by the sketch only.
It actually starts looking interesting as a compact host.

Gunga wrote:

Can we make the clip ring flush with the tailcap instead of sticking up all around like that?

Ideally yes, but I was scared that there wouldn’t be enough material for the clip to be sturdy enough.

kaybi wrote:

Talking about the clip, any chances of getting a deep carry clip?

While I agree that a deep carry clip can be practical sometimes I think it looks a little awkward and also would yield in a very long clip since it needs to extend to the lug closest to the head. So I think it will be unlikely, but we’ll discuss it.
@ToyKeeper, since you have the Solarforce clip, would you mind measuring the inner diameter as well as the outer diameter and the thickness of the material?

Fine. Please put me on the list for one.

BTW, I’m starting to think “The Miller” should be “The MillerS” to account for his omnipresence.

ys will update list later
a reply or pm is eas on the phone, that doesnt take long and can be done walking from A to B for example, the real work is done by the likes of Fritz, DEL, Tom and so on

Interested in ONE.  Thank you!

Please add me to the list. I’ll take 2

I would like to get one put me on the list.
Thanks

Please add two for me.

add me 1

Please include me in the list. I appreciate your teams effort to bringing us this nice light!

In retrospect it looks like that Manker clip isn’t a clean through cut, I still think that would be neat though, spelling out what you want while skeletonizing it at the same time. A bead blast before ano would remove any burrs.

DB Custom wrote:

In retrospect it looks like that Manker clip isn’t a clean through cut, I still think that would be neat though, spelling out what you want while skeletonizing it at the same time. A bead blast before ano would remove any burrs.

You’re right, I didn’t notice that it isn’t cut through. Just after you mentioned it you notice the R would be floating…

Will update list later

It is a neat idea

Cut FW3A through the clip
The A would make a triangular hole for a lanyard too.

With the e-switch, the tailcap isn’t nearly as long as mechanical switch lights. I would rather have a standard clip than a deep carry clip with this design.

Add me to the list please

fritz15 wrote:

@ToyKeeper, since you have the Solarforce clip, would you mind measuring the inner diameter as well as the outer diameter and the thickness of the material?

Any details on the driver, levels, u.i. etc?

dts71 wrote:

Any details on the driver, levels, u.i. etc?

UI, Narsil so almost too many options to mention to choose from by users via simple interface

Will update list later

Please put me up on the list for one – haven’t purchased a flashlight in months

Yes of course!

Humm, hard to resist, if there’s a hiCRI option or TK’s screen configuration, I won’t be able to justify not buying it …

I’m down for 1

ToyKeeper wrote:

fritz15 wrote:

@ToyKeeper, since you have the Solarforce clip, would you mind measuring the inner diameter as well as the outer diameter and the thickness of the material?

Sure, if I can find anything precise enough to measure it…

The SolarForce clip appears to be formed from a steel sheet 1.2mm thick. The ring is 1.4mm wide where it wraps around the light. The ring’s inner diameter is 22.4 mm, and the outer diameter is 25.3 mm. The main, long portion of the clip is 8.5mm wide.

The light itself measures 25.1 mm in diameter, so the clip ring sticks out a tiny bit. The threads measure 21.8 mm, which leaves the clip ring a bit loose.

I have the bulky Solarforce clip on a couple of Solarforce lights, in that context it works all right. The Sinner Cypreus is far too elegant a light , IMO, for the bulky Solarforce clip. I have the Titanium clips Sinner supplied on all of mine and they work fine. I’ve been asked to modify Sinner’s lights for the Steel Flamed clips that cost a fortune, in my opinion they are far too strong and do not yield which represents a possibility of damaging a copper light by ripping screws out of the threads. Just my 2 cents. That might be more valuable or less according to my status with Sinner, as I am essentially his North American Warranty Repair… I’ve seen a good many Sinner lights that people have messed up in one way or another.

Thusly I am saying that, in my experience, the strength of the Solarforce clip is too much for a small 14500 light. I either would remove such a clip from the FW3A or wouldn’t buy the light at all if it came with such a mismatched clip. Purely my own taste in lights and clips, of course.

KuoH

DB Custom wrote:

I have the bulky Solarforce clip on a couple of Solarforce lights, in that context it works all right. The Sinner Cypreus is far too elegant a light , IMO, for the bulky Solarforce clip. I have the Titanium clips Sinner supplied on all of mine and they work fine. I’ve been asked to modify Sinner’s lights for the Steel Flamed clips that cost a fortune, in my opinion they are far too strong and do not yield which represents a possibility of damaging a copper light by ripping screws out of the threads. Just my 2 cents. That might be more valuable or less according to my status with Sinner, as I am essentially his North American Warranty Repair… I’ve seen a good many Sinner lights that people have messed up in one way or another.

Thusly I am saying that, in my experience, the strength of the Solarforce clip is too much for a small 14500 light. I either would remove such a clip from the FW3A or wouldn’t buy the light at all if it came with such a mismatched clip. Purely my own taste in lights and clips, of course.

The clip will likely scratch it a little, but with the clear-anodized aluminum it shouldn’t be very noticeable. No screws to strip either, so a sturdy clip should be reasonably safe as long as it doesn’t clamp down hard enough to make it unusable.

My Cypreus has some small marks where the clip makes contact, but if I always keep it rotated to the same position it isn’t an issue. I tried using it without a clip for a while, but it didn’t take long before it rolled and fell and got dinged up, so I put the clip back on. It also helps add an extra mm internally for the battery, which has been helpful. This early model was a bit tighter inside than his later builds.

In any case, there’s a very good chance I’ll end up ordering a bunch of FW3A lights to give to people, since it seems like it’ll probably turn out to be unusually nice at a much lower price than anything else like it.

Thanks you two!

ToyKeeper wrote:

Okay, I managed to find some digital calipers. No idea how accurate they are, but the precision is 0.1 mm.

The SolarForce clip appears to be formed from a steel sheet 1.2mm thick. The ring is 1.4mm wide where it wraps around the light. The ring’s inner diameter is 22.4 mm, and the outer diameter is 25.3 mm. The main, long portion of the clip is 8.5mm wide.

The light itself measures 25.1 mm in diameter, so the clip ring sticks out a tiny bit. The threads measure 21.8 mm, which leaves the clip ring a bit loose.

DB Custom wrote:

I have the bulky Solarforce clip on a couple of Solarforce lights, in that context it works all right. The Sinner Cypreus is far too elegant a light , IMO, for the bulky Solarforce clip. I have the Titanium clips Sinner supplied on all of mine and they work fine. I’ve been asked to modify Sinner’s lights for the Steel Flamed clips that cost a fortune, in my opinion they are far too strong and do not yield which represents a possibility of damaging a copper light by ripping screws out of the threads. Just my 2 cents. That might be more valuable or less according to my status with Sinner, as I am essentially his North American Warranty Repair… I’ve seen a good many Sinner lights that people have messed up in one way or another.

Thusly I am saying that, in my experience, the strength of the Solarforce clip is too much for a small 14500 light. I either would remove such a clip from the FW3A or wouldn’t buy the light at all if it came with such a mismatched clip. Purely my own taste in lights and clips, of course.

Your comment made me thinking if it wouldn’t be better to go for a 0.8 mm thick clip instead of 1 mm. I actually like the clamping force of my 0.8 mm clip.
Interesting, do you have any ideas for the improvement of the FW3A design based your experience with Sinner lights in order to avoid broken lights?

Ah good point TK of having the clip protect it from rolling away.

Will update list later.

noetik wrote:

Humm, hard to resist, if there’s a hiCRI option or TK’s screen configuration, I won’t be able to justify not buying it …

Well the driver design is almost done with adaptation to allow a future firmware with screen config to be used, but it will not likely be a feature directly and probably requires flashing new firmware later if it gets done.

I would like to get one, put me on the list.
Thanks.

Hey toykeeper, do you think that an emitter swap could possibly mess up with the screen configuration, due to differences between emitters?