CRX, beautiful! Do you ever sell your lights? How much would this one go for?
This one’s a keeper, I never know how to price these things, by the hour + materials?
My time varies between £30-£50 an hr for work so if I said £30 × 12 = £360 + £40 + a niche skill set & unqiue item?….
Well, instead of waiting around or moaning about the FW3A’s production I had to get creative and make my own version
… Emisar D4v2 ramping driver
That’s really nice. It may even be closer to the original spirit of the FW3A than the real thing. I’m curious though… did you flash the driver or use it stock? There are builds of Anduril for that driver if you want one.
Thanks. I used what I had on hand – a stock Emisar D4 driver with the switchwire connected to a brass ring sitting on the spring side, insulated of course.
CRX, beautiful! Do you ever sell your lights? How much would this one go for?
This one’s a keeper, I never know how to price these things, by the hour + materials?
My time varies between £30-£50 an hr for work so if I said £30 × 12 = £360 + £40 + a niche skill set & unqiue item?….
We were hoping you’d do it pro bono. You know……for BLF members…….in your spare time.
—
Keep your nose in the wind and your eyes along the skyline.
Del Gue
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A with the Emisar in the center.
Note: It’s not the final ‘tint’ of the anodisation yet, still in ‘Host’ form (more greenish than grey), but at least you’ll believe this project is on track and it’s coming our way sooner than later:
Edit: The photo might not be a final representation of what will become the production version.
It’s more for the purpose of showing that this project is very-much alive and hopefully bring hope to those fellow members who are losing enthusiasm because of the looong wait.
At the moment I only have the photo, so please bear me my friend. If I answer your question, it will only be speculative so I am not qualified to answer in a responsible manner haha.
I have no trouble being speculative : it looks to me that both head and tail are not screwed down and that you can see o-ring grooves and maybe how the inner tube is sitting in the shell (how exactly that fits in I can not figure out.
With the parts unscrewed to the point of being completely loose, it can be made to look similar to the photo. I don’t know how the parts are being held in position though, since gravity makes it fall together a bit more than that in the prototypes.
With the parts unscrewed to the point of being completely loose, it can be made to look similar to the photo. I don’t know how the parts are being held in position though, since gravity makes it fall together a bit more than that in the prototypes.
They are laying flat on their sides.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
With the parts unscrewed to the point of being completely loose, it can be made to look similar to the photo. I don’t know how the parts are being held in position though, since gravity makes it fall together a bit more than that in the prototypes.
They are laying flat on their sides.
Maybe… but the tailcaps look like they are sitting/standing on the green to me.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A with the Emisar in the center.
Note: It’s not the final ‘tint’ of the anodisation yet, still in ‘Host’ form (more greenish than grey), but at least you’ll believe this project is on track and it’s coming our way sooner than later:
Edit: The photo might not be a final representation of what will become the production version.
It’s more for the purpose of showing that this project is very-much alive and hopefully bring hope to those fellow members who are losing enthusiasm because of the looong wait.
Great color as is. I like the slight green in there.
Color temp / power ??
Should be efficiency / power, right?
Two seperate things.
The color can be effected due to the power delivery. The FET is full power, many amps, and uses PWM which pulses the full power to create the lower brightness levels.
The 7135 limits current, it only allows 0.35A through. So when it’s using 1 or all the 7135 chips fully, there is no pulsing or PWM and the color is slightly different.
It’s a bit complicated for me to follow, but the tint does shift slightly based on the type of power delivery to the led.
Using a prototype of the BLF-A6, I configured the firmware to alternate every half-second between 100% power on a 350mA channel and roughly 6% power (via PWM) on a direct-drive FET. The result was a constant amount of lumens but a changing beam tint.
Yeah, i know, but then the graph suggests the color temp gets cooler when power increases, which is not the case. LEDs have a cooler tint when running on low power, get warmer tint when power increases.
Yeah, i know, but then the graph suggests the color temp gets cooler when power increases, which is not the case.
LEDs have a cooler tint when running on low power, get warmer tint when power increases.
This depends on the LED but most I’ve tested have gotten cooler with increasing current.
I am new to this board and don’t know all the details of this project – just wanted to thank everyone involved and say that this product appears really innovative and cool. An electronic tail switch is something I haven’t seen before in this form factor.
This keeps most of the levels pretty stable and reasonably efficient, as far as linear drivers go. But it still has a direct drive circuit for turbo.
In a totally non-scientific qualitative manner, the overall efficiency curve compared to a constant current linear driver looks something like this:
You did mention that efficiency is “reasonably efficient as far as linear drivers go”. But the charts themselves look as if the blue curve was optimal, not merely optimal for linear drivers. I’ve been confused by them when I was more noobish than I am now. I suggest clarifying that right on the pictures.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted, though I haven’t seen a careful analysis of what was going on, one that would enable us to draw lessons for future drivers designs.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted
A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.
It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A …
What do you think guys?
No major host shape changes have been approved, so I hope that’s just unscrewed and missing the clip and O-rings.
I also think it’d be nice if the people involved in the project didn’t have to get news from forwarded social media posts. It’s a bit frustrating.
Open the photo in a new tab, zoom in (there is a lot of detail there to see), and you can form your own opinion. Those don’t look like o-ring grooves to me. And if they are, why two ? This isn’t a dive light. And the clip was not supposed to clip into a groove, but be Solarforce style, with integral retaining ring.
There isn’t a separate tailcap as such in this design, the tube should only ever unscrew at the head, so if this really is just a display of parts in disassembled condition, well, why ? Screw it up please
Remember, this is where the concept started: http://i.imgur.com/AVSmLGN.jpg It seems a lot has been coarsened since then.
Nice touch putting the piece of packing under the Emissar, and bringing it forwards, to make it look longer
Edit, and fatter
Than it actually is
I do hope I’ve got this completely wrong, but I don’t see (literally) how I could have.
Oh no, I think he’s onto me
This one’s a keeper, I never know how to price these things, by the hour + materials?
My time varies between £30-£50 an hr for work so if I said £30 × 12 = £360 + £40 + a niche skill set & unqiue item?….
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
I can’t speak for CRX, but it would have to be expensive, both parts and labor wise.
Beautiful!
Edit: beat me to the post.
Would like to purchase when available.
That’s really nice. It may even be closer to the original spirit of the FW3A than the real thing. I’m curious though… did you flash the driver or use it stock? There are builds of Anduril for that driver if you want one.
Thanks. I used what I had on hand – a stock Emisar D4 driver with the switchwire connected to a brass ring sitting on the spring side, insulated of course.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Interested in 1. Thanks.
We were hoping you’d do it pro bono. You know……for BLF members…….in your spare time.
Keep your nose in the wind and your eyes along the skyline.
Del Gue
Interested in 1 when available
No clue how I overlooked the FW3A being a 3 channel, 1+7+FET driver. That just sweetens the deal.
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A with the Emisar in the center.
Note: It’s not the final ‘tint’ of the anodisation yet, still in ‘Host’ form (more greenish than grey), but at least you’ll believe this project is on track and it’s coming our way sooner than later:
Edit: The photo might not be a final representation of what will become the production version.
It’s more for the purpose of showing that this project is very-much alive and hopefully bring hope to those fellow members who are losing enthusiasm because of the looong wait.
What are the extra ribs cut in it under the head?
Are the ends not screwed down?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
At the moment I only have the photo, so please bear me my friend. If I answer your question, it will only be speculative so I am not qualified to answer in a responsible manner haha.
No major host shape changes have been approved, so I hope that’s just unscrewed and missing the clip and O-rings.
I also think it’d be nice if the people involved in the project didn’t have to get news from forwarded social media posts. It’s a bit frustrating.
Yeah, better to iron out all discrepancies before full-blown production commences.
I have no trouble being speculative
: it looks to me that both head and tail are not screwed down and that you can see o-ring grooves and maybe how the inner tube is sitting in the shell (how exactly that fits in I can not figure out.
link to djozz tests
There might not be any host changes. It’s looks pretty much exactly like it’s supposed to.
It’s just the ends being unscrewed that make it look different.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
You are most probably correct in that observation.
With the parts unscrewed to the point of being completely loose, it can be made to look similar to the photo. I don’t know how the parts are being held in position though, since gravity makes it fall together a bit more than that in the prototypes.
They are laying flat on their sides.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
You are correct, sir. And I think I should go get some sleep.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Great color as is. I like the slight green in there.
DAYUM! That looks sexy!
I’m thinking of bead blasting one of mine or stripping it and polishing it .
I really want Toykeepers prototype
καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν
Dc-fix diffuser film >… http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208
Yeah, i know, but then the graph suggests the color temp gets cooler when power increases, which is not the case.
LEDs have a cooler tint when running on low power, get warmer tint when power increases.
This depends on the LED but most I’ve tested have gotten cooler with increasing current.
I am new to this board and don’t know all the details of this project – just wanted to thank everyone involved and say that this product appears really innovative and cool. An electronic tail switch is something I haven’t seen before in this form factor.
You did mention that efficiency is “reasonably efficient as far as linear drivers go”. But the charts themselves look as if the blue curve was optimal, not merely optimal for linear drivers. I’ve been confused by them when I was more noobish than I am now. I suggest clarifying that right on the pictures.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted, though I haven’t seen a careful analysis of what was going on, one that would enable us to draw lessons for future drivers designs.
A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.
It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.
link to djozz tests
Open the photo in a new tab, zoom in (there is a lot of detail there to see), and you can form your own opinion. Those don’t look like o-ring grooves to me. And if they are, why two ? This isn’t a dive light. And the clip was not supposed to clip into a groove, but be Solarforce style, with integral retaining ring.
Or just go straight to https://i.imgur.com/rohcLIc.jpg[/img]
There isn’t a separate tailcap as such in this design, the tube should only ever unscrew at the head, so if this really is just a display of parts in disassembled condition, well, why ? Screw it up please
Remember, this is where the concept started: http://i.imgur.com/AVSmLGN.jpg It seems a lot has been coarsened since then.
Nice touch putting the piece of packing under the Emissar, and bringing it forwards, to make it look longer
Edit, and fatter
Than it actually is
I do hope I’ve got this completely wrong, but I don’t see (literally) how I could have.
Pages