Henk4U2 wrote:

Certainly not being the best person to brag about his photographic skills,
but I think that every person involved has shown us a photo with a different color of ano.
And I can’t imagine that LT fills a fresh bath of ano for every copy they send.

Is it possible to send one of the last specimen to a professional photographer, like DBCustom?
Or is it advisable to publish only photo’s of the FW3A in the company of well known lights?

The anodising is grey, which behaves similar like white surfaces. Depending on the surrounding color you get a slight color on grey or white. E.g. wear a blue shirt it looks blue and with a green jacket greenish.

In a white fotobox it sould look grey.

Edit: Or you simply look at Maukkas picture

JasonWW wrote:

Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.

It’s only slightly blue-tinted. If I take an average color value from each of three people’s pictures, and normalize them, here’s what I found:

• R/G/B = 77.7% / 88.3% / 100.0% Bluzie
• R/G/B = 89.0% / 93.8% / 100.0% TK
• R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% Maukka

Maukka’s pictures are color-calibrated, so I’d trust those values the most. If I understand correctly, the others used auto white balance so their colors may be skewed.

Bluzie:

TK:

Maukka:

Please please please, yes I would like 1. Dark grey XPL-HI.

I’m changing my mind on emitter, I’ll want to go with an XP-L instead of the LH351D. Edited my original post.

ogre23 wrote:

I’m changing my mind on emitter, I’ll want to go with an XP-L instead of the LH351D. Edited my original post.

I’m in.
Dark grey LH351D 4000K 90CRI
Thanks

I’m already down for 2 so maybe I should take a 3rd for my father in law
Forgot to say- Also XPL for the 3rd

I’m in for for one xpl-hi

ToyKeeper wrote:

My favorite by far is XP-L HI. I think I’ve been fairly clear about that, but just in case… it’s the one I consider the best for this light. I would ideally only make the light with XP-L HI emitters, and offer it in 7D, 5D, 4D, 3D, and 1D tints. Or maybe 6D, 5A, 3D, 2A. Perhaps 7A, 5D, 4A, 2D. Something like that.

I’ve tried both LH351D and SST-20, but my experience with both so far has been “icky green tint”, even at high CRI. But maybe that would be better with the correct tint bin.

However, this project isn’t just for me. Or just for Fritz. We already have one. This project is for the people. And a lot of people really like LH351D or SST-20. So we’ll use those… or at least one of the two. If either one can be obtained in a rosy tint bin, I think it would turn out well.

I use XP-L 4000k 5D in everything. Always very nice tint and usually goes a little pink.

ToyKeeper wrote:

My favorite by far is XP-L HI. I think I’ve been fairly clear about that, but just in case… it’s the one I consider the best for this light. I would ideally only make the light with XP-L HI emitters, and offer it in 7D, 5D, 4D, 3D, and 1D tints. Or maybe 6D, 5A, 3D, 2A. Perhaps 7A, 5D, 4A, 2D. Something like that.

I’ve tried both LH351D and SST-20, but my experience with both so far has been “icky green tint”, even at high CRI. But maybe that would be better with the correct tint bin.

However, this project isn’t just for me. Or just for Fritz. We already have one. This project is for the people. And a lot of people really like LH351D or SST-20. So we’ll use those… or at least one of the two. If either one can be obtained in a rosy tint bin, I think it would turn out well.

cabfrank wrote:

My favorite, and many other’s as well, is also XPL-HI. I think some people want to just try another emitter, or keep the cost slightly lower. I’m sure I’d be very happy with just two XPL versions.

Your probably right too about some people wanting to try another emitter. In fact, i had been hearing so much about the SST-20; I ordered a S2+ to try the 4000K 95CRI version. But after reading THIS that may well have been a mistake unless I just happen to get a good tint. Oh well, it was on sale for $10.99.

Will probably try a LH351D sometime too, if I know for sure it is a good tint.

Choosing an emitter solely based on saving money is a mistake from the start in my book.

For me, and this applies to most anything in life; sometimes the latest is not the greatest.
There is always a lot to be said for the ‘tried and true’.

teacher, that $10.99 is less than the cost of an S2+ host plus it’s got a biscotti driver. I say you came out way ahead. Just swap in your favorite led. I have one from Hank and ordered 4 more from banggood for giveaways.

Yeah, great deal, and a great way to try the SST-20. Our standards have changed quickly (meaning we are getting spoiled by more great lights at great prices), but this should be a very solid and useful flashlight.

Your exactly right shirnask… “cheaper than the host”. . That was the deciding factor on getting it, I figured it was a win – win on my end; whether I liked the SST-20 or not.

And, as cabfrank noted; it was a cheap way to try the SST-20 & get a decent light (Convoy S2+) also.

Just a win-win all the way around….

Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.

i would like to buy one, with XP-L HI please

cabfrank wrote:

Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.

I’ll take 1 too thanks!!!

I prefer dark gray. It looks nothing but perfect on the calibrated photos.

ToyKeeper wrote:

JasonWW wrote:

Wow, the gray anodization has a bit more blue in it than I realized.

It's only slightly blue-tinted. If I take an average color value from each of three people's pictures, and normalize them, here's what I found: * R/G/B = 77.7% / 88.3% / 100.0% Bluzie * R/G/B = 89.0% / 93.8% / 100.0% TK * R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% Maukka Maukka's pictures are color-calibrated, so I'd trust those values the most. If I understand correctly, the others used auto white balance so their colors may be skewed.

Does R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% (for Manuka) equate to R=240, G=247, B=255? I'm trying to duplicate the FW3A color, out of curiosity, in HTML or Photoshop. Thanks!

ToyKeeper wrote:

It’s only slightly blue-tinted. If I take an average color value from each of three people’s pictures, and normalize them, here’s what I found:

• R/G/B = 77.7% / 88.3% / 100.0% Bluzie
• R/G/B = 89.0% / 93.8% / 100.0% TK
• R/G/B = 94.0% / 97.0% / 100.0% Maukka

Maukka’s pictures are color-calibrated, so I’d trust those values the most. If I understand correctly, the others used auto white balance so their colors may be skewed.

It’s like Greek to me & I am very curious too.

Thanks in advance….

You just open the photo in Photoshop, use the dropper tool to pick up the color from a pixel of the picture, and read the RGB values.

OH….. Thank you EnlightenMe!! You have enlightened me…. .

teacher wrote:

how you got “an average color value”, & how you arrived at those percentages.

It’s fairly straightforward.

1. Blur the image. Something like a Gaussian blur filter, with an appropriately-wide sample size for the given image. Maybe 20 to 50 pixels across, depending on the image. This makes each pixel an average of itself and every neighbor within N pixels.
2. Use the eyedropper tool to read the R/G/B values from a region near the middle of the light.
3. Note the highest of the three values. Multiply all three numbers by 100, divided by the noted highest value.

Also, it’s important to make sure beforehand that the original image isn’t clipping (overexposed) anywhere near the sampled region. I mean, make sure none of the values are maxed out, 255, in the original image… or at least not anywhere within N pixels of the sampled point, where N is the size of the Gaussian filter. Clipping distorts the data.

ToyKeeper wrote:

teacher wrote:

how you got “an average color value”, & how you arrived at those percentages.

It’s fairly straightforward.

1. Blur the image. Something like a Gaussian blur filter, with an appropriately-wide sample size for the given image. Maybe 20 to 50 pixels across, depending on the image. This makes each pixel an average of itself and every neighbor within N pixels.
2. Use the eyedropper tool to read the R/G/B values from a region near the middle of the light.
3. Note the highest of the three values. Multiply all three numbers by 100, divided by the noted highest value.

Also, it’s important to make sure beforehand that the original image isn’t clipping (overexposed) anywhere near the sampled region. I mean, make sure none of the values are maxed out, 255, in the original image… or at least not anywhere within N pixels of the sampled point, where N is the size of the Gaussian filter. Clipping distorts the data.

EnlightenMe wrote:

You just open the photo in Photoshop, use the dropper tool to pick up the color from a pixel of the picture, and read the RGB values.

Great, what values did you get?

The values I get in Photoshop depend on where I "pick" the color - and they vary widely between the light and dark areas of the FW3A photos.   

ActiveAl wrote:

The values I get in Photoshop depend on where I “pick” the color

That’s why it’s important to blur the image first, to get an average. After blurring, the values will still vary from pixel to pixel, but they pretty much only vary in brightness, not hue. The ratio of red to green to blue doesn’t change much.

I wonder if GIMP has a filter to normalize each pixel individually. This would make it much easier to see changes in color without having to pay attention to brightness.

teacher wrote:

cabfrank wrote:

Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.

I certainly will my friend.
Also, I just checked; the $10.99 Coupon Code for the Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI is still active. Get the details HERE …

I think Banggood threw Simon under the bus.

They’re basically saying: we did not order enough units.

Marc E wrote:

teacher wrote:

cabfrank wrote:

Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.

I certainly will my friend.
Also, I just checked; the $10.99 Coupon Code for the Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI is still active. Get the details HERE …

It is, but a word of warning, i ordered one on the 20th Feb using that link and code and got an e-mail on 1st March saying that the order had been delayed due to manufacturing process. I asked Simon and he confirmed here that there were no such issues. Could be a fake reason for a genuine delay but who knows.

ToyKeeper wrote:

ActiveAl wrote:

The values I get in Photoshop depend on where I “pick” the color

That’s why it’s important to blur the image first, to get an average. After blurring, the values will still vary from pixel to pixel, but they pretty much only vary in brightness, not hue. The ratio of red to green to blue doesn’t change much.

I wonder if GIMP has a filter to normalize each pixel individually. This would make it much easier to see changes in color without having to pay attention to brightness.

EDIT: Nope. I was wrong. I just tried it. It reduces to a user-selected number of “levels” not “colors” and the difference means it won’t work for this purpose.