I had forgot all about TK’s Tom Tom post, I was back focused on the light again. Then Tom brings it up and now it’s topical again. I think he shot hiself in the foot by bringing it up.
Now back to the FW3A.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives?
Not planning on modding. The only exception being a possible LED change in one (1) of mine. The stock XP-L HI’s will remain in the others.
I’ve been thinking on that too, I would like to get some Luxeon V 4000K into it!
Recently, I started thinking about the possibility to add a tritium vial in the tail cap, but that may be dependent on the thickness of the metal (to dig a place for the trit)
I would have liked some LH351*B* but they don’t like direct drive…
So it’ll be SST20, maybe I’ll try a 3000K + 4000K + 5000K mix to see how it goes.
Maybe Orange LEDs if it’s there for Halloween
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives?
I’ll configure Anduril to discrete ramping, floor level 1, ceiling level 130 (max 8 × 7135), and 7 steps. This puts max 1 × 7135 at step 4.
I’ve been using discrete ramping with my ROT66 and I think I prefer it this way. Of course, if I need more options, it only takes three clicks to go back to smooth ramping.
If I have the free time, I’ll do a 3-way comparison to decide what emitter choice I like best:
The ease of modding will depend on whether Lumintop glue it together, as was their intention.
Please not, at least for the BLF run.
Has that been kiboshed yet ?
Lower Vf leds don’t concern me, actually my preference for overall efficiency and consistency of output, in linear mode. This has X1 and X7 7135 banks (I think), which is enough to sustain more than enough output for my needs, and as much as something this size can reasonably sustain, thermally.
Actually this driver (DEL’s ISTR) is a key attraction, together with the lack of bling stuff (e.g lighted up this that and the other).
I see the FET as a novelty feature, of little practical use, for me, for a few seconds. But fun.
As a compact, factory triple, with an attractive driver and firmware, at a price which I would exceed just trying to cobble together e.g. an S2 myself, I still want one.
The tail e-switch keeps it short, but adds a lot of complexity and potential for future problems. Time will tell. At least it is in the right place, tail, not side. It also makes it interesting.
Efficiency is in opposition to consistency of output with linear drivers. That is to say, consistency of output is provided by lower Vf, but using a linear driver with a large difference between LED Vf and battery voltage results in more energy wasted by the driver.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
The ease of modding will depend on whether Lumintop glue it together, as was their intention.
Not really. Keep in mind that they were only considering using glue on the tail cap. So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.
All the more likely mods, swapping emmiters, lenses, etc… are not effected.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.
How much of an effect does bypassing the tail spring actually have? I know PFlexPRO swears by it (claiming “200 lumens” worth of reduced resistance), but if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?
So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.
How much of an effect does bypassing the tail spring actually have? I know PFlexPRO swears by it (claiming “200 lumens” worth of reduced resistance), but if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?
It does make such a difference but more light is not always a good thing for a responsible manufacturer:
Often bypassing springs is done in flashlights with already high current/output in which case a bypass will add light in an inefficient region of the output curve of the led, so the bit of extra light comes with disproportional shorter runtime and lots of extra heat. This may be worth it for a flashoholic but in general it is a bad idea.
If there is any light around in which bypassing springs could cause more trouble than is worth the extra light, it is the tiny FW3A.
It does make such a difference but more light is not always a good thing for a responsible manufacturer:
Often bypassing springs is done in flashlights with already high current/output in which case a bypass will add light in an inefficient region of the output curve of the led, so the bit of extra light comes with disproportional shorter runtime and lots of extra heat. This may be worth it for a flashoholic but in general it is a bad idea.
I mean, wouldn’t you pair the more efficient wiring with a lower output driver and/or scaled back regulation?
Yes, it might not play nice if you add it to something that is not designed for it, but if a responsible manufacturer is designing from the start with that more efficient path in mind, that would be part of their calculations.
djozz wrote:
If there is any light around in which bypassing springs could cause more trouble than is worth the extra light, it is the tiny FW3A.
Didn’t mean it necessarily in the context of this light specifically. The mention of it just reminded me of my curiosity about it in general.
I mean, wouldn’t you pair the more efficient wiring with a lower output driver and/or scaled back regulation?
Yes of course, that would be marvellous in case of that illusive 17mm one-sided slim buck/boost driver, but the plain reality is that many (most) single li-ion battery flashlights are driven by simple lineair drivers, so for a given current, regulated or not, over-voltage will simply be burnt off somewhere, if not in the springs then the driver will have to take care of that. In the special case of a unregulated FET-driver, which the FW3A is at its highest modes, the already very high current will just go further up.
if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?
Part of the reason you don’t see it from the factory much is that it has to be done by hand, not by machine, so that adds time. It also has to be done properly which requires real technique. The average assembly worker has no time to learn nor does the company want to slow down the assembly line by doing it.
If not done properly, it can come loose and cause a short circuit and fry the battery. (Think of Haikelite MT09R bypass wires on the outside of the spring) So there are these legitimate safety concerns.
Add it all up and that’s why you don’t see it very often.
Double low resistance springs are something that is much better for a factory light and it seems it’s catching on. Especially as lights get brighter and currents get higher.
The FW3A is not meant to be a hot rod. It’s turbo is more “practical”.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Yes, we wouldn’t want to go off topic in this thread
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.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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I had forgot all about TK’s Tom Tom post, I was back focused on the light again. Then Tom brings it up and now it’s topical again. I think he shot hiself in the foot by bringing it up.
Now back to the FW3A.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
OK! So, what mods are you people thinking about when the FW3A arrives?
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I’ve been thinking on that too, I would like to get some Luxeon V 4000K into it!
Recently, I started thinking about the possibility to add a tritium vial in the tail cap, but that may be dependent on the thickness of the metal (to dig a place for the trit)
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I’m probably going to try and electroplate this light.
I’d love myself a copper plated light, or a silver plated light.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Slicing LH351 for High CRI Samsung HI version.
I would have liked some LH351*B* but they don’t like direct drive…
So it’ll be SST20, maybe I’ll try a 3000K + 4000K + 5000K mix to see how it goes.
Maybe Orange LEDs if it’s there for Halloween
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
I’ll configure Anduril to discrete ramping, floor level 1, ceiling level 130 (max 8 × 7135), and 7 steps. This puts max 1 × 7135 at step 4.
I’ve been using discrete ramping with my ROT66 and I think I prefer it this way. Of course, if I need more options, it only takes three clicks to go back to smooth ramping.
If I have the free time, I’ll do a 3-way comparison to decide what emitter choice I like best:
The ease of modding will depend on whether Lumintop glue it together, as was their intention.
Please not, at least for the BLF run.
Has that been kiboshed yet ?
Lower Vf leds don’t concern me, actually my preference for overall efficiency and consistency of output, in linear mode. This has X1 and X7 7135 banks (I think), which is enough to sustain more than enough output for my needs, and as much as something this size can reasonably sustain, thermally.
Actually this driver (DEL’s ISTR) is a key attraction, together with the lack of bling stuff (e.g lighted up this that and the other).
I see the FET as a novelty feature, of little practical use, for me, for a few seconds. But fun.
As a compact, factory triple, with an attractive driver and firmware, at a price which I would exceed just trying to cobble together e.g. an S2 myself, I still want one.
The tail e-switch keeps it short, but adds a lot of complexity and potential for future problems. Time will tell. At least it is in the right place, tail, not side. It also makes it interesting.
Efficiency is in opposition to consistency of output with linear drivers. That is to say, consistency of output is provided by lower Vf, but using a linear driver with a large difference between LED Vf and battery voltage results in more energy wasted by the driver.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
LH351D
SST-20 – 4000k
SST-20 – 2700k
XP-L HI V2 5D
I would like to add one more for a total of 2 please
2xLH351D 4000k+1x SST-20 3500k.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Not really. Keep in mind that they were only considering using glue on the tail cap. So the only mods it might effect are removing the clip and bypassing/replacing the tail spring.
All the more likely mods, swapping emmiters, lenses, etc… are not effected.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Sign me up plz. Thanks OP.
2* 4000k SST-20 & 1* 3000k SST-20 might be a nice combo
How much of an effect does bypassing the tail spring actually have? I know PFlexPRO swears by it (claiming “200 lumens” worth of reduced resistance), but if it was actually such a major difference maker, wouldn’t it be more of a standard feature rather than something only seen in mods?
It does make such a difference but more light is not always a good thing for a responsible manufacturer:
Often bypassing springs is done in flashlights with already high current/output in which case a bypass will add light in an inefficient region of the output curve of the led, so the bit of extra light comes with disproportional shorter runtime and lots of extra heat. This may be worth it for a flashoholic but in general it is a bad idea.
If there is any light around in which bypassing springs could cause more trouble than is worth the extra light, it is the tiny FW3A.
link to djozz tests
Agreed, I wouldn’t do it with this light.
I mean, wouldn’t you pair the more efficient wiring with a lower output driver and/or scaled back regulation?
Yes, it might not play nice if you add it to something that is not designed for it, but if a responsible manufacturer is designing from the start with that more efficient path in mind, that would be part of their calculations.
Didn’t mean it necessarily in the context of this light specifically. The mention of it just reminded me of my curiosity about it in general.
Yes of course, that would be marvellous in case of that illusive 17mm one-sided slim buck/boost driver, but the plain reality is that many (most) single li-ion battery flashlights are driven by simple lineair drivers, so for a given current, regulated or not, over-voltage will simply be burnt off somewhere, if not in the springs then the driver will have to take care of that. In the special case of a unregulated FET-driver, which the FW3A is at its highest modes, the already very high current will just go further up.
link to djozz tests
Part of the reason you don’t see it from the factory much is that it has to be done by hand, not by machine, so that adds time. It also has to be done properly which requires real technique. The average assembly worker has no time to learn nor does the company want to slow down the assembly line by doing it.
If not done properly, it can come loose and cause a short circuit and fry the battery. (Think of Haikelite MT09R bypass wires on the outside of the spring) So there are these legitimate safety concerns.
Add it all up and that’s why you don’t see it very often.
Double low resistance springs are something that is much better for a factory light and it seems it’s catching on. Especially as lights get brighter and currents get higher.
The FW3A is not meant to be a hot rod. It’s turbo is more “practical”.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Been gone a long time, has this been released? updates on the light?
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
Not released yet…. should be soon. Updates in post #1.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I just checked my dictionary and couldn’t find the answer, what does soon mean again?
“Valve time”
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
monsoon….
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