Location: Derby City - Home of The Louisville Slugger
The following is from a relative noob's perspective.
Been lurking this thread since early on. This is my first group buy. I committed to a light back in the early 1,000's (count, not Year AD) IIRC. I did so mostly out of curiosity, with no expectations, so have not been disappointed with timing or anything else.
Fascinating process. The challenges have been well documented IMO, and the issues with dealing through multiple individuals across different cultures have been educational to watch.
Kudos to all involved who selflessly spend their own time & resources monitoring the details, keeping the thread updated, and in general shepherding the thing along to fruition. Thank You!
The discussion of emitters has been somewhat confusing to this writer, simply from lack of experience. Modding is still some time in my future, so I'd like to make a good choice on the initial order(s). Which brings up my question:
Could there be a synopsis added to post #1 that briefly describes the advantages and disadvantages of each emitter choice as related to this particular light/optics combination? Nothing fancy, just some indication of CRI, total lumens, current draw and relative throw per emitter. Runtime would be nice if only comparing basic modes but, the complexity would be daunting I suspect. Perhaps links to deeper info per-emitter could be included for educational purposes for those like myself who aren't well versed on the finer points of the emitters being proposed.
slmjim
—
Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.
Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.
Could there be a synopsis added to post #1 that briefly describes the advantages and disadvantages of each emitter choice as related to this particular light/optics combination?
I added an updated copy of the comparison used in the emitter poll:
——
Emitter Comparisons:
Price
Lumens
Throwiness
CRI
Beam
Heat
Cree XP-L HI
$36
2800?
****
70+
****
Luminus SST-20
$30
2400?
*****
95+
****
Samsung LH351D
$30
2800?
*
90+
****
For price and heat, lower values are better. Throwiness depends on
personal needs and taste. For everything else, higher values are
better.
Throwiness is a rough measure of candelas per lumen. It’s the overall beam
shape. Even the throwiest option is not a thrower, because compact triples
are floody by nature. At a guess, the range here is about 2 to 4
cd/lm, and common reflector-based EDC-style lights are usually about
5 to 10.
Beam is the overall beam quality, like smoothness and color consistency.
More peppers makes thermal management harder, reduces the sustainable
brightness after step-down, and increases risk of damaging the emitters on
turbo.
Values indicate approximate performance in a Carclo 10511
optic using a FET for direct drive on 1×18650. These have not been
directly tested in the FW3A host, so this data is more of an educated
guess than a measurement.
All of the emitter types are good, but here is the worst part about each:
XP-L HI: Costs more. Medium CRI.
SST-20: Green at low levels.
LH351D: Super floody. Green at low levels. May be unobtainable.
Visual estimate of the floodiest option compared to a throwy option:
And I think it should be clarified with the two high cri options (without getting into specifics of duv) that their color is not as well-described as green as it would be if they were a cooler temperature, regardless of whether you say lemongrass or just say “yellowish/greenish color”. To me, the sst20 comes across more yellow than green, as I have probably mentioned.
At last, a good laugh from this thread! Thanks caramba, any opportunity to use that old meme is a good one!
I heard that the light will get done quicker once the thread reaches 10k posts, I wonder if there’s any truth to that?
Uh, that would mean power is the same for both if the VF and current is the same?
I think heat should be based on power consumption.
All in all, the XP-L HI has the highest VF, meaning it emits less heat.
We then have the SST-20 65CRI which has slightly lower VF, consuming a bit more power, but not really enough to be significant.
Not available here, but would be nice for max throw.
Then, we have the SST-20 95CRI and LH351D 90CRI have the same lowest VF, consuming the most power and emitting the highest amount of heat.
Uh, that would mean power is the same for both if the VF and current is the same?
I think heat should be based on power consumption.
All in all, the XP-L HI has the highest VF, meaning it emits less heat.
.
The power consumed produces two things; light and heat.
If one produces more light than the other then the one with less light output should be producing more heat, if the voltsage and amps are the same.
If it was possible to build a 100% efficient led all the power consumed would go into light output and there would be no heat.
Location: Derby City - Home of The Louisville Slugger
ToyKeeper wrote:
I added an updated copy of the comparison used in the emitter poll: ---- Emitter Comparisons:
Price
Lumens
Throwiness
CRI
Beam
Heat
Cree XP-L HI
$36
2800?
****
70+
****
Luminus SST-20
$30
2400?
*****
95+
****
Samsung LH351D
$30
2800?
*
90+
****
For price and heat, lower values are better. Throwiness depends on personal needs and taste. For everything else, higher values are better. Throwiness is a rough measure of candelas per lumen. It's the overall beam shape. Even the throwiest option is not a thrower, because compact triples are floody by nature. At a guess, the range here is about 2 to 4 cd/lm, and common reflector-based EDC-style lights are usually about 5 to 10. Beam is the overall beam quality, like smoothness and color consistency. More peppers makes thermal management harder, reduces the sustainable brightness after step-down, and increases risk of damaging the emitters on turbo. Values indicate approximate performance in a Carclo 10511 optic using a FET for direct drive on 1x18650. These have not been directly tested in the FW3A host, so this data is more of an educated guess than a measurement. All of the emitter types are good, but here is the worst part about each:
XP-L HI: Costs more.
SST-20: Green at low levels.
LH351D: Super floody. Green at low levels. May be unobtainable.
Visual estimate of the floodiest option compared to a throwy option:
Thank You TK! That's very useful for me.
slmjim
—
Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.
Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.
I really hope they can get the LH351D!
The Super floody beam is much more usefull to me. Can not wait to get my hands on it. Perfect UI, high CRI, E-switch, super floody and very compact.
If it works without problems it will be hard for any other light to beat it as my new EDC.
Thanks to all that spend their time and work to make it possible!
I really hope they can get the LH351D!
The Super floody beam is much more usefull to me. Can not wait to get my hands on it. Perfect UI, high CRI, E-switch, super floody and very compact.
If it works without problems it will be hard for any other light to beat it as my new EDC.
Thanks to all that spend their time and work to make it possible!
yeah me too, but it seems that for now it will be not possible, maybe later on i dont know
Probably asked before, but I cant find it. How difficult it will be to flash modified firmware to FW3A? Can it be done without disassembling and without soldering?
Me too … 2 with SST-20 … please.
... Happy Landings ...
Add another for me, please!
That’s a total of 2, both with SST-20.
Mike
I’m leaning towards getting 2 as well (one of each). Please mark me down for another too, if it matters. Thanks.
The following is from a relative noob's perspective.
Been lurking this thread since early on. This is my first group buy. I committed to a light back in the early 1,000's (count, not Year AD) IIRC. I did so mostly out of curiosity, with no expectations, so have not been disappointed with timing or anything else.
Fascinating process. The challenges have been well documented IMO, and the issues with dealing through multiple individuals across different cultures have been educational to watch.
Kudos to all involved who selflessly spend their own time & resources monitoring the details, keeping the thread updated, and in general shepherding the thing along to fruition. Thank You!
The discussion of emitters has been somewhat confusing to this writer, simply from lack of experience. Modding is still some time in my future, so I'd like to make a good choice on the initial order(s). Which brings up my question:
Could there be a synopsis added to post #1 that briefly describes the advantages and disadvantages of each emitter choice as related to this particular light/optics combination? Nothing fancy, just some indication of CRI, total lumens, current draw and relative throw per emitter. Runtime would be nice if only comparing basic modes but, the complexity would be daunting I suspect. Perhaps links to deeper info per-emitter could be included for educational purposes for those like myself who aren't well versed on the finer points of the emitters being proposed.
slmjim
Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.
Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.
I added an updated copy of the comparison used in the emitter poll:
——
Emitter Comparisons:
For price and heat, lower values are better. Throwiness depends on personal needs and taste. For everything else, higher values are better.
Throwiness is a rough measure of candelas per lumen. It’s the overall beam shape. Even the throwiest option is not a thrower, because compact triples are floody by nature. At a guess, the range here is about 2 to 4 cd/lm, and common reflector-based EDC-style lights are usually about 5 to 10.
Beam is the overall beam quality, like smoothness and color consistency.
More peppers makes thermal management harder, reduces the sustainable brightness after step-down, and increases risk of damaging the emitters on turbo.
Values indicate approximate performance in a Carclo 10511 optic using a FET for direct drive on 1×18650. These have not been directly tested in the FW3A host, so this data is more of an educated guess than a measurement.
All of the emitter types are good, but here is the worst part about each:
Visual estimate of the floodiest option compared to a throwy option:
Actually, the heat should be the same for the LH351D and SST-20 since they have about the same forward voltage.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
John 3:16
Sorry, mistake on my part.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
And I think it should be clarified with the two high cri options (without getting into specifics of duv) that their color is not as well-described as green as it would be if they were a cooler temperature, regardless of whether you say lemongrass or just say “yellowish/greenish color”. To me, the sst20 comes across more yellow than green, as I have probably mentioned.
Card Carrying CRI baby
Thanks TK!
8000 posts
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
At last, a good laugh from this thread! Thanks caramba, any opportunity to use that old meme is a good one!
I heard that the light will get done quicker once the thread reaches 10k posts, I wonder if there’s any truth to that?
Same Vf, same amps, but SST-20 makes fewer lumens… so it should also make more heat.
Uh, that would mean power is the same for both if the VF and current is the same?
I think heat should be based on power consumption.
All in all, the XP-L HI has the highest VF, meaning it emits less heat.
We then have the SST-20 65CRI which has slightly lower VF, consuming a bit more power, but not really enough to be significant.
Not available here, but would be nice for max throw.
Then, we have the SST-20 95CRI and LH351D 90CRI have the same lowest VF, consuming the most power and emitting the highest amount of heat.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
If we’re listing the worst thing about each LED, it seems like performing far worse on a metric some people value highly might be worth a mention.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
The power consumed produces two things; light and heat.
If one produces more light than the other then the one with less light output should be producing more heat, if the voltsage and amps are the same.
If it was possible to build a 100% efficient led all the power consumed would go into light output and there would be no heat.
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Huh, I completely forgot about that.
Thanks MtnDon.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Thank You TK! That's very useful for me.
slmjim
Great... Carnac the Magnificent tells me I just signed up for yet another expensive hobby.
Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.
It’s not low CRI; it’s just average CRI. Since you think it’s worth mentioning though, I added it.
I really hope they can get the LH351D!
The Super floody beam is much more usefull to me. Can not wait to get my hands on it. Perfect UI, high CRI, E-switch, super floody and very compact.
If it works without problems it will be hard for any other light to beat it as my new EDC.
Thanks to all that spend their time and work to make it possible!
New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255
+2 please
lol only lurking… My wallet is not a fan of my new life decision
The BIG List of 500m+ Throw Flashlights!
yeah me too, but it seems that for now it will be not possible, maybe later on i dont know
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Probably asked before, but I cant find it. How difficult it will be to flash modified firmware to FW3A? Can it be done without disassembling and without soldering?
Look what I found.
https://www.lumintoponline.com/lumintop-fw3a-triple-p1492292.html
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
But your link clearly says fw3a-triple.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Either they are booking the page or they are making fake news
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
If it’s not too late I’d like to get in for 1 of these!
You can type anything you want in that URL before the “-p1492292” and it’ll take you to the Tool AA 2.0 page.
https://www.lumintoponline.com/Buzzy243-is-bored-at-work-p1492292.html
Edit: https://www.lumintoponline.com/You-got-me-Good-one-Zak-p1492292.html
Pages