FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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zak.wilson
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Buzzkill243 wrote:
You can type anything you want in that URL before the “-p1492292” and it’ll take you to the Tool AA 2.0 page.

https://www.lumintoponline.com/Buzzkill243-is-bored-at-work-p1492292.html

Edit: https://www.lumintoponline.com/You-got-me-Good-one-Zak-p1492292.html

Username fixed.

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mortuus
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well if the model name appears in their page it must mean something… i hope not april fools joke Sad i dont find that funny at all if so..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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JaredM
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that’s cruel Crying

zak.wilson
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I know. It’s the worst thing I’ve done all week.

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SKY69
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I have a slightly twisted sense of humor and I knew it was an April fools joke. LOL

teacher
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You bust me!! Facepalm . I forgot it was 1 April…. Big Smile Big Smile

Good one!! Hilarious. …. Beer . Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Buzzy243
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SKY69 wrote:
I have a slightly twisted sense of humor and I knew it was an April fools joke. LOL

The real twisted part is that little grain of truth that makes a good lie; this is a common way for new products to leak.

I fell for this so hard I had actually started digging through Lumintop’s image hosting site for photos of this mythical FW3A.

ToyKeeper
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dropman wrote:
Probably asked before, but I cant find it. How difficult it will be to flash modified firmware to FW3A? Can it be done without disassembling and without soldering?

No, sorry. It requires soldering to get the driver out before it can be flashed. Take off the bezel, lens, and optic. Unsolder the LED wires. Unscrew the driver retaining ring. Then the driver should come out where it can be flashed. Repeat everything in reverse to re-assemble.

There isn’t really anywhere to put flashing vias, since both surfaces of the driver are really packed with components. It was originally going to have optical programming, but it turns out that would take several hours to transfer a ROM and it would require removing several features to make room.

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zak.wilson wrote:
I know. It’s the worst thing I’ve done all week.

Yeah, it’s not even the right URL. They’ll probably sell it on Amazon for western customers.

https://www.amazon.com/Lumintop-FW3A-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized/dp/B00137QS28/

Scallywag
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ToyKeeper wrote:
zak.wilson wrote:
I know. It's the worst thing I've done all week.
Yeah, it's not even the right URL. They'll probably sell it on Amazon for western customers. https://www.amazon.com/Lumintop-FW3A-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized/dp/B00137QS28

 

The funny thing is, I knew this wasn't the real link. I clicked it anyway, I guess to see where it went. But I suppose you were counting on that.

 

Edit: quotes ending in links are hard, and harder to fix on mobile.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Cliwilnew
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The more I see of this, the more I like it. Please put me down for a second one. Then I don’t have to decide between emitter options, I’ll just get one of each! If it helps, the number for my first one is 1995.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
zak.wilson wrote:
I know. It’s the worst thing I’ve done all week.

Yeah, it’s not even the right URL. They’ll probably sell it on Amazon for western customers.

https://www.amazon.com/Lumintop-FW3A-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized/dp/B00137QS28/

TK, Good one too but now that song is stuck in my head! Facepalm

teacher
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teacher wrote:
cabfrank wrote:
Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.
I certainly will my friend. Thumbs Up
Also, I just checked; the $10.99 Coupon Code for the Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI is still active. Get the details HEREWink
The “Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI” finally came in today.
  • The UI is Biscotti.
  • The driver has 8 × 7135 chips.
  • The modes are 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, & 100%.

Here are ‘my’ impressions of the SST20 4000K in ‘this’ light.

  • The lower power levels (0.1% & 1%) have a medium pea green tint. Sick . Facepalm
  • The 10% level has a mild pea green tint. Sick . Facepalm
  • The 35% level is a creamy white. Thumbs Up
  • The 100% level is a creamy white with a slight rose tint. Thumbs Up

Surprisingly, I really like the 35% & 100% levels. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

However, the green tint at the 0.1%, 1%, & 10% levels kill it for me. It is just downright ugly.

If there was a way to avoid the greenish tint at the lower levels, this would be nice enough.

These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI, yours may vary.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Eraursls1984
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teacher wrote:
teacher wrote:
cabfrank wrote:
Do let us know what you think when you get it, teacher. I think it is quite tempting, even at around fifteen bucks.
I certainly will my friend. Thumbs Up
Also, I just checked; the $10.99 Coupon Code for the Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI is still active. Get the details HEREWink
The “Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI” finally came in today.
  • The UI is Biscotti.
  • The driver has 8 × 7135 chips.
  • The modes are 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, & 100%.

Here are ‘my’ impressions of the SST20 4000K in ‘this’ light.

  • The lower power levels (0.1% & 1%) have a medium pea green tint. Sick . Facepalm
  • The 10% level has a mild pea green tint. Sick . Facepalm
  • The 35% level is a creamy white. Thumbs Up
  • The 100% level is a creamy white with a slight rose tint. Thumbs Up

Surprisingly, I really like the 35% & 100% levels. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

However, the green tint at the 0.1%, 1%, & 10% levels kill it for me. It is just downright ugly.

If there was a way to avoid the greenish tint at the lower levels, this would be nice enough.

These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI, yours may vary.


I wonder how a slight -green filter would affect the higher modes.
cabfrank
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Thanks, teacher. The green isn’t great, but as we were saying before, at that low price, it wasn’t too much of a risk. Maybe you will like the throw and tint just using higher levels.

teacher
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Your welcome cabfrank. Yeah, no doubt at this price it was a true deal. Thumbs Up A win/win.
And that is exactly what I am going to do, just use the two higher levels. It actually suits me quite well when the ‘green is gone’. Wink

Even 10% is not horribly bad. But below 10% truly sux…. ‘to me’.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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Ryzbor
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Put me up for one 4000K option please, doen’t matter which led will be used.

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)

 

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teacher wrote:
the green tint at the 0.1%, 1%, & 10% levels kill it for me. It is just downright ugly.

That’s why I don’t like the SST-20 (and LH351D) emitters I’ve tried. I mostly only use low levels, and they don’t look good at those levels. Even when doing CCT mixing to pull the tint pinkward, it still looks greenish in the bottom half of the ramp. The FET portion of the ramp looks nice though.

OTOH, it’s a little weird that you’d see much tint shift on a 8×7135 driver. It should have fairly constant tint across all modes except moon, since they’re all running at the same power with different duty cycles. But I suppose if the pulses have rounded edges instead of being true square waves, you’d still see some tint changes.

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That’s also a property of how our eyes work.

When there is less light, our eyes tend to prioritize green wavelengths.

That’s what I’ve noticed, and is a strange phenomenon.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
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Tech25
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Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?

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BlueSwordM wrote:
That’s also a property of how our eyes work.

When there is less light, our eyes tend to prioritize green wavelengths.

That’s what I’ve noticed, and is a strange phenomenon.

I thought that this occurs at all wavelengths? What I’ve read on the subject is that green is the brightest perceivable color to the human eye under all conditions?

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Shaved LH351Ds are quickly becoming my favorite emitter, for single emitter lights at least.

It’s drops the duv to nearly right on the BBL or below – depending on which bin you start with – lowers the CCT just a tad and makes them a bit throwier without any noticeable change in output to my eyes.

I’ve heard the same is true of the SST-20 but that they’re also harder to shave/sand and I haven’t tried either of these emitters in a TIR triple/quad where I think I’d still prefer the SST-20 for a throwier beam.

For a single emitter light the 351D has a great balanced beam profile though. Hitting roughly 700 lumens in a Sofirn SF14 w/4000K bin from Mtn-Elec and the “DOGFART” 5000K has finally made me like my Neutron V3 after swapping out the terribly green and tint-shifting X-PL HD.

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Tech25 wrote:
Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?

Three reasons:

*I suspect that people on BLF overcompensate: if a tint has not the desired rosiness, they have learned to perceive it as greenish
*If compared next to a pink flashlight, it indeed looks green.
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI

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One more reason with flashlights in moonlight mode : Purkinje effect
Even if an ideal flashlight has zero tint shift over its different modes, you are going to perceive a tint shift with a particularly low moonlight mode.

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Tech25 wrote:
Interesting that I don’t see green in my Sofirn C01s on low or high. Green usually irks me like crazy- maybe the optic in this light helps?

Yes, the TIR in the CO1s will likely mix the beam differently than the reflector in the S2+.

Many LED’s, especially in reflectors, have a significant tint difference between the hotspot and the spill, and my experience is this difference gives you a more obvious means of comparison to notice bad tint in part of the beam.

I’d bet if the beam in the S2+ was diffused, the green would be less noticeable even on moonlight.

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djozz wrote:
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI

My experience is the opposite with the 219C. The original 5000K CRI80 is much nicer at similar slightly greenish duvs (~0.0030-0.0040) than the newer CRI90 variants. On a white wall at least.

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These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI, yours may vary.[/quote]

Hi Teacher. I read that the lumen output with the specs your light has is about 600 lumens on high.. Do you think that is about right?

thank you.

patrick

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Quote:
Hi Teacher. I read that the lumen output with the specs your light has is about 600 lumens on high.. Do you think that is about right?

thank you.

patrick


Here are the numbers Maukka got for that emitter
teacher
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teacher wrote:
These are ‘my impressions of this particular SST20 4000K 95+ CRI, yours may vary.

saypat wrote:

Hi Teacher. I read that the lumen output with the specs your light has is about 600 lumens on high.. Do you think that is about right?

thank you.

patrick

Hi saypat… I would say it is ‘at least’ 600 lumens or a bit better on High.
I see BurningPlayd0h posted some test results & that seems to be about right according to his posted chart.

I can’t get to my ‘Lumen Tube’ at the moment because of some remodeling…. but when I can I’ll measure it & see what I come up with. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

ToyKeeper
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maukka wrote:
djozz wrote:
*light above the BBL looks uglier in low CRI than in high CRI

My experience is the opposite with the 219C. The original 5000K CRI80 is much nicer at similar slightly greenish duvs (~0.0030-0.0040) than the newer CRI90 variants. On a white wall at least.

Yeah, the 219C 5000K CRI80 I have is actually pretty okay. It tends to make things look a bit lifeless, but overall it’s reasonably good compared to most LEDs I’ve tried. It doesn’t really look not-white during use, even though a camera tells me it’s greenish.

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