This is pretty off-topic, but anyone have any ideas how to make a strip of RGBLEDs work? There’s someone trying to make a fancy flow wand which draws things in the air while it moves, and I haven’t really tried to do anything like that:
Decided to drop in on the progress of these lights, anyone care to give a synopsis on how the evaluation samples are coming?
If I understand correctly, the optics might be in now… and then Neal is planning to send some lights for sanity testing to make sure nothing is broken. I haven’t heard any details yet though. Hopefully soon?
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Shaved LH351Ds are quickly becoming my favorite emitter, for single emitter lights at least.
That’s something I still need to try. It sounds really promising. At least, it’s a good way to make use of those dog farts.
This is pretty off-topic, but anyone have any ideas how to make a strip of RGBLEDs work? There’s someone trying to make a fancy flow wand which draws things in the air while it moves, and I haven’t really tried to do anything like that:
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
Sorry guys…
Well, it’s a clever move from Lumintop.
Begin to produce the long awaited FW3A with XP-L HI, sell it for 36$ to evryone would can’t wait anymore after all this time…then you eventually put some SST20 in the production and sell more for 30$…
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
I don’t think Lumintop is trying to do anything “clever”. It has been known for a very long time the XP-L HI was going to possibly cost around $6 more per light. It has also been known the other LED options have been, for whatever reason; hard to source.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Mass production will commence after the QingMing Festival ( literally a day for tomb sweeping; but significantly a day for remembering past ancestors) Leds to be used are the XP-L HI 3D .(~4875K)..as for the other led version(s), no definite news about them still.
I don’t think Lumintop is trying to do anything “clever”. It has been known for a very long time the XP-L HI was going to possibly cost around $6 more per light. It has also been known the other LED options have been, for whatever reason; hard to source.
I wish I was as naive as you are, the world would seem like a better place.
Anyway, at least it move forward
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
The “Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K 95CRI” finally came in today.
Nice! I got mine too
Eraursls1984 wrote:
Quote:
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
Not for me, i’ve been using a 4000K SST-20 for the last week or so on the low modes of a biscotti 1400ma driver and while it is immediately a bit green my eyes adjust within a few seconds of use (even with sunlight through windows as background lighting) at which point it just becomes a joy to use, sublime even (see what i did there :D), with no noticable tint just very useable light with great colours and depth perception (because of the green i think) which is exactly what i want.
In fact it’s (at least temporarily) put me off rosy tints, but that’s for another thread.
For this thread – i’ll be choosing the SST-20 4000K version
Edit: Although from above it seems this is not confirmed as an option yet :S
Mass production will commence after the QingMing Festival ( literally a day for tomb sweeping; but significantly a day for remembering past ancestors)
Leds to be used are the XP-L HI 3D .(~4875K)..as for the other led version(s), no definite news about them still.
Not wanting to delay any further but I was under the impression production samples were to be sent to a number of membrs for a final check over prior to full production commencing.
I wouldn’t put it past any manufacturer to structure availability to maximize profits, but that’s not what’s going on here. Looking at prices on Arrow, the cheapest XP-L HI is $3.50 in bulk quantities. LH351Ds are as low as $0.70, and single quantities of the popular 5000K, 90 CRI version are cheaper than bulk XP-L HIs. A search on Octopart finds the SST-20 in 4000K, 95 CRI is cheaper still, both in single and bulk quantities.
It wouldn’t surprise me if Lumintop’s per-unit profit is actually higher on the lower-priced high-CRI version, whichever emitter it ends up with.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
This is pretty off-topic, but anyone have any ideas how to make a strip of RGBLEDs work? There’s someone trying to make a fancy flow wand which draws things in the air while it moves, and I haven’t really tried to do anything like that:
You mean like a neopixel strip or ws2812? 3 wires and all are individually addressable, lots of Arduino libraries out there for POV
Something like that. But the discussion is over there, not here.
I think it’s interesting, and I’m watching to learn from the thread, but it’s not really for my benefit. I just figure someone on BLF probably has the answers this person needs to make a cool shiny thing.
… it’s a clever move from Lumintop. … I wish I was as naive as you are
*eyeroll.gif*
Not every imperfection is a sign of foul play. In this case, it’s probably our fault for not making a decision about SST-20 sooner… or at all, really. They’ve had the XP-L HI in stock for a while, waiting for production. Meanwhile, we told them last-minute in a wishy-washy way that they should maybe offer SST-20 too, and it takes time to get the parts.
Mostly, I just hope the samples are perfect so production can go ahead without any delays.
It is a great light! really small but powerful as a 18650 light!
I didn’t read through the thread, how is the heat sink?
The heat sink is small. It is not meant for extended use on turbo. The turbo level is mostly just a burst mode. The main goal of this light is not to be bright, the goal is to be practical for daily use. So it is small and ergonomic, instead of big and blindingly bright.
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
QFT
I’m a tint and CRI snob too, but the human eye and brain are pretty good at adapting to just about anything. The longer a period I use a rosy light, the less rosy it appears and the same is true for greenish ones. Ambient light has a HUGE effect on how I perceive the duv and color temp of any lights too.
I don’t think Lumintop is trying to do anything “clever”. It has been known for a very long time the XP-L HI was going to possibly cost around $6 more per light. It has also been known the other LED options have been, for whatever reason; hard to source.
I wish I was as naive as you are, the world would seem like a better place.
Anyway, at least it move forward
I understand… . But actualIy I’m not that “naive”… I’m just not paranoid to the point that I think there is a ‘bad guy’ waiting behind every bush to get me. They are actually only behind a few. The key is knowing which one’s…..
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
… and the sst20 or lh351d versions are going to be between yellow and green when you go hunting white walls and pretty okay otherwise. It should be fine.
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
That’s my point, just because it doesn’t seem to effect you doesn’t mean those of us who do have issues with it are just white wall hunting.
While I do use higher brightness levels in urban areas, they are still relatively low.
Thanks Scallywag. My first Anduril light is still on its way. Can you confirm if Anduril indicates with a blip in the ramp when it goes from regulated to hybrid mode, like the Emisar D4 UI?
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
This is pretty off-topic, but anyone have any ideas how to make a strip of RGB LEDs work? There’s someone trying to make a fancy flow wand which draws things in the air while it moves, and I haven’t really tried to do anything like that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66616
About more on-topic stuff though…
If I understand correctly, the optics might be in now… and then Neal is planning to send some lights for sanity testing to make sure nothing is broken. I haven’t heard any details yet though. Hopefully soon?
That’s something I still need to try. It sounds really promising. At least, it’s a good way to make use of those dog farts.
You mean like a neopixel strip or ws2812? 3 wires and all are individually addressable, lots of Arduino libraries out there for POV
+1 interested
This gets quite tiresome. No, it is green in use as well. Tint with yellow, or green are, for me, not noticeable outside in foliage. However, it is very noticeable in use indoors, or outdoors in a more urban area. So unless you’re in the woods, it is absolutely noticeable.
/\ .. Yep.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Mass production will commence after the QingMing Festival ( literally a day for tomb sweeping; but significantly a day for remembering past ancestors)
Leds to be used are the XP-L HI 3D .(~4875K)..as for the other led version(s), no definite news about them still.
Time to start putting some money aside!
And to remember that I am running a GAW for a FW3A here
Thanks for the update tatasal !!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Whatever, I’ll swap the LEDs anyway…
But I don’t see how the price would be the same between XP-L HI and SST20…
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
QingMing Festival this year is 5 April 2019 by the way.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
From the OP:
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
Sorry guys…
Well, it’s a clever move from Lumintop.
Begin to produce the long awaited FW3A with XP-L HI, sell it for 36$ to evryone would can’t wait anymore after all this time…then you eventually put some SST20 in the production and sell more for 30$…
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
I don’t think Lumintop is trying to do anything “clever”. It has been known for a very long time the XP-L HI was going to possibly cost around $6 more per light. It has also been known the other LED options have been, for whatever reason; hard to source.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
FWIW, the QingMing festival is on Friday, Apr 5 in 2019.
I wish I was as naive as you are, the world would seem like a better place.
Anyway, at least it move forward
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
In fact it’s (at least temporarily) put me off rosy tints, but that’s for another thread.
For this thread – i’ll be choosing the SST-20 4000K version
Edit: Although from above it seems this is not confirmed as an option yet :S
Not wanting to delay any further but I was under the impression production samples were to be sent to a number of membrs for a final check over prior to full production commencing.
I wouldn’t put it past any manufacturer to structure availability to maximize profits, but that’s not what’s going on here. Looking at prices on Arrow, the cheapest XP-L HI is $3.50 in bulk quantities. LH351Ds are as low as $0.70, and single quantities of the popular 5000K, 90 CRI version are cheaper than bulk XP-L HIs. A search on Octopart finds the SST-20 in 4000K, 95 CRI is cheaper still, both in single and bulk quantities.
It wouldn’t surprise me if Lumintop’s per-unit profit is actually higher on the lower-priced high-CRI version, whichever emitter it ends up with.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
It is a great light! really small but powerful as a 18650 light!
I didn’t read through the thread, how is the heat sink?
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
Something like that. But the discussion is over there, not here.
I think it’s interesting, and I’m watching to learn from the thread, but it’s not really for my benefit. I just figure someone on BLF probably has the answers this person needs to make a cool shiny thing.
*eyeroll.gif*
Not every imperfection is a sign of foul play. In this case, it’s probably our fault for not making a decision about SST-20 sooner… or at all, really. They’ve had the XP-L HI in stock for a while, waiting for production. Meanwhile, we told them last-minute in a wishy-washy way that they should maybe offer SST-20 too, and it takes time to get the parts.
Mostly, I just hope the samples are perfect so production can go ahead without any delays.
The heat sink is small. It is not meant for extended use on turbo. The turbo level is mostly just a burst mode. The main goal of this light is not to be bright, the goal is to be practical for daily use. So it is small and ergonomic, instead of big and blindingly bright.
Just because you get incredibly annoyed by green doesn’t objectively prove anything about what others, such as myself, will think of what we perceive as yellow, when we are using low modes – which is only going to happen much indoors, if in an urban area, because I’m not sure if you noticed, but urban areas are brighter at night than less populated areas, and you need to drive your tiny floody 3 emitter light a bit harder if you want the light to shine very far, considering all the competing sources shining in your eyes. So you’re going to be moving towards the rosy end of the spectrum the more current you drive it with, and between that and how even gray urban concrete doesn’t seem to highlight the differences as much as a white wall, I think the average person won’t be too concerned about it. Regardless of what either of us think, the fact that we disagree illustrates my point that people’s perceptions differ and everyone must simply be aware that there isn’t complete agreement on the subjective particulars.
QFT
I’m a tint and CRI snob too, but the human eye and brain are pretty good at adapting to just about anything. The longer a period I use a rosy light, the less rosy it appears and the same is true for greenish ones. Ambient light has a HUGE effect on how I perceive the duv and color temp of any lights too.
The key is knowing which one’s…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Interested, albeit probably a year or two late…
What’s the maximum regulated output from the driver? I guess it’s FET driver?
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1421292#comment-1421292
Fet+7+1
agTac D25C Ti | L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special |
That’s my point, just because it doesn’t seem to effect you doesn’t mean those of us who do have issues with it are just white wall hunting.
While I do use higher brightness levels in urban areas, they are still relatively low.
Thanks Scallywag. My first Anduril light is still on its way. Can you confirm if Anduril indicates with a blip in the ramp when it goes from regulated to hybrid mode, like the Emisar D4 UI?
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
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