Prince explained the meaning of "Purple Rain" as follows: "When there's blood in the sky – red and blue = purple... purple rain pertains to the end of the world and being with the one you love and letting your faith/god guide you through the purple rain."
Off Topic: For China it means spiritual awareness, physical and mental healing, hence strength, abundance, red purple brings luck and fame. Purple (紫; zǐ) refers to the North Star (Polaris), which in ancient China was called the Ziwei Star, the North Star was in traditional Chinese astrology the abode of the Celestial Emperor. (see also: Purple Forbidden City).
The SST-20 in TK’s photos looks very green. I’ve never seen one that looks that bad, though they certainly don’t look good next to the 219B sw45k I have in my FW3A.
Tint beamshots are hard. Cameras capture colors differently, automatically post-process colors differently unless the photographer shoots in raw and does it manually, and displays display them differently. When I tried to get beamshots of the Armytek Prime XHP35, which is very rosy according to maukka’s testing, it just looked neutral. The beamshot in maukka’s review looks a little rosy, but doesn’t really capture it.
Anyway, I wouldn’t like SST-20s my eyes see the way TK’s camera does, but the FB4s I have don’t look nearly that bad. The FA3 supposedly being offered for the FW3A should be considerably better. I have FD2s on the way, and I have some Lee 801 minus green, which makes FB4 look great. Filters are a lot easier than sourcing emitters with nice tint the way the LED market is going lately.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Wow what a dreadful tint. I like the throw on it but I don't know if I want a different batch 219C or an SST20 that may be 3500k or 4000k. I was trying to choose until I found out that the 219C version does not exist and I cannot add it to my cart. I will take the maybe bad DUV and swap if I need to. Good luck to everyone hope we all get a good one!
We can at least all agree that its relative to the other LEDs. It was not "as green" before, but it is relatively so. I am coping hard because I hope that its a good DUV now. -_-
Now if I order it, it should be here in in about a month. So exciting!
Seems that the communication is one direction these days?
- SAM -
I really don’t think most people who know, forget TLF is equally in on this too. So yeah, as you stated; that would make “TWO comunities ACTIVE for this flashlight”.
But when someone (you in this case) posts pictures (now deleted) with no caption or informarion besides…. “tint choices “ …. It is kinda natural (for me anyway) to want to know where they came from. Especially since these light are not on the market yet.
So…. I’ll just now figure they came from TLF.
As far as the “one was communication” you mention… I have no idea?? But now that I really think about what you said, it does seem BLF gets quite a bit of 2nd & 3rd hand info.
But… at least we get it. So it’s all good…. …
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
TK’s SST-20 pictures aren’t that far off from what I experience when I turn on my SST-20 95-CRI lights on lower power settings. They look VERY green.
Installing a Lee minus green filter helps a lot… but the Lee #279 filter I’m using itself has major disadvantages (14% reduction in output, color temp gets noticeably warmer. Not a Zircon filter so excessive output will damage it.).
At lower power settings the green of the SST-20 is instantly noticeable. Indoors and outdoors. And even if you don’t have a less-green light on-hand to compare it to.
No SST-20 4000K 95 CRI I have ever seen in reality looks remotely so green.
It looks great if I turn it up high enough to activate the FET… in other words, 1000+ lumens. It makes an awesome 4000K white light. At the lower levels I actually use though, it’s not even close to white.
PBWilson wrote:
That sand/oiled bronze/gold color is fantastic!
You mean the green one?
The color samples show olive green, blue, pinkish purple, and white.
It looks like it may be somewhere between “olive” and “olive drab”, somewhere between the food and the military color.
About the purple one, I’d ideally make it a bit darker… sort of a candy grape purple or midnight purple. But this pinkish purple is good too.
SamHaLeKe wrote:
Surely hoping TK is getting one!
I hope so too!
I like purple, and I want a moonbeam button.
I hope the logo is okay. I think people were expecting me to put my avatar or “TK” or the button, but that just seems tacky. I’d rather have some sort of simple geometric design, so I made one. “Press here for moonbeams”
SamHaLeKe wrote:
I think that here at BLF most just forget that this is a collaboration between TLF and BLF.
So there are efectively TWO comunities ACTIVE for this flashlight.
TLF is even holding a “official” poll on wich collor it should be! One can only choose two colors for fisrt run …
Seems that the communication is one direction these days?
It’s more that Bluzie at TLF is actively engaged in the ongoing FW3A process, and … I’m trying not to be. Now that it’s released, I mostly need to focus on other projects. And maybe a nap.
[…] About the purple one, I’d ideally make it a bit darker… sort of a candy grape purple or midnight purple. But this pinkish purple is good too. […]
I completely agree, and I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not overly keen on the type of purple like the one pictured. We’ve already seen lights in thst shade of purple that looks almost like fuchsia (e.g. Astrolux A01 with its horrible next-mode memory). Personally, I prefer the darker tones with a higher blue component such as Cadbury’s Purple. Or if we stay with warmer tones, maybe a dark plum / wine red. There are so many shades of purple, so why stick with what is so common? That particular shade seems over-used to me – not just in flashlights but also in other products, which imho makes it look ‘cheap’. Let’s be a bit more adventurous!
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
White anodization is definitely possible.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
White anodization is definitely possible.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
I think on the Emisar products they might acid etch the surface, add the white dye then seal it. I’m not sure. The grainy surface is a key that they are doing something unique. It may not be true anodization like we see with other colors, though. Here’s an article on why there’s no white.
I wonder if we can get Lumintop to comment on the white finish.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
People need to stop comparing to 219B, it’s too far under the BBL to make a good comparison for 99% of LEDs
Exactly. Many people prefer light with a negative Duv, but, objectively speaking, negative and positive Duv are equally deviant from the reference standard. (Of course, there is nothing sacred about the BBL, but it does represent the light, both natural and artificial, in which humans evolved and adapted.)
As a (subjective) aside, I see little or no green in the high CRISST 20’s (of unknown bin) in my Emisar D4S, even at low levels, although I accept that, objectively, they are above BBL. And when I light up the ship half-model above my desk, which has blues, reds, and wood tones, the SST’s are significantly richer in color than the XP-L HI 3D’s in my FW3A.
An interesting question: why do humans prefer magenta light over green?
欢聚一堂
生意兴隆
▶ Flashlights list with BLF User Interfaces (latest production models) ◀
Lumintop: Tool AAA, Tool AA 2.0, EDC05, GT Mini, GT Micro, GT Nano, FW3C
BLF Special Edition: A6, KRONOS X6 and X5, Q8, GT, FW3A, LT1
Astrolux: M01, S41, S42, SC, C8, FT03, MF01S
JETBeam: MINI-TI, JET-U, JET-UV
Photon Freedom Micro, D.Q.G Hobi
Maratac AAA SS, Convoy S2+ UV
Skilhunt H03F RC, Miboxer C4-12
i make a poll in BLF,
so let’s choose which color we make.
Link: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67577#comment-1516550
Thank you Neal
Edit: if possible, please make sure all future FW3A versions ship with latest Unduril as (next to the design) It's The Purple Star of this flashlight
▶ Flashlights list with BLF User Interfaces (latest production models) ◀
Lumintop: Tool AAA, Tool AA 2.0, EDC05, GT Mini, GT Micro, GT Nano, FW3C
BLF Special Edition: A6, KRONOS X6 and X5, Q8, GT, FW3A, LT1
Astrolux: M01, S41, S42, SC, C8, FT03, MF01S
JETBeam: MINI-TI, JET-U, JET-UV
Photon Freedom Micro, D.Q.G Hobi
Maratac AAA SS, Convoy S2+ UV
Skilhunt H03F RC, Miboxer C4-12
Thanks for the FW3A Color Choice Poll Neal!!
It’s a tough choice…..
The Purple is a given, gotta have it.
But it’s a tough call between the Blue & Army Green…. I like them both. 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The SST-20 in TK’s photos looks very green. I’ve never seen one that looks that bad, though they certainly don’t look good next to the 219B sw45k I have in my FW3A.
Tint beamshots are hard. Cameras capture colors differently, automatically post-process colors differently unless the photographer shoots in raw and does it manually, and displays display them differently. When I tried to get beamshots of the Armytek Prime XHP35, which is very rosy according to maukka’s testing, it just looked neutral. The beamshot in maukka’s review looks a little rosy, but doesn’t really capture it.
Anyway, I wouldn’t like SST-20s my eyes see the way TK’s camera does, but the FB4s I have don’t look nearly that bad. The FA3 supposedly being offered for the FW3A should be considerably better. I have FD2s on the way, and I have some Lee 801 minus green, which makes FB4 look great. Filters are a lot easier than sourcing emitters with nice tint the way the LED market is going lately.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Yeah. They look extremely green.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Wow what a dreadful tint. I like the throw on it but I don't know if I want a different batch 219C or an SST20 that may be 3500k or 4000k. I was trying to choose until I found out that the 219C version does not exist and I cannot add it to my cart. I will take the maybe bad DUV and swap if I need to. Good luck to everyone hope we all get a good one!
We can at least all agree that its relative to the other LEDs. It was not "as green" before, but it is relatively so. I am coping hard because I hope that its a good DUV now. -_-
Now if I order it, it should be here in in about a month. So exciting!
But when someone (you in this case) posts pictures (now deleted) with no caption or informarion besides…. “tint choices
“ …. It is kinda natural (for me anyway) to want to know where they came from. Especially since these light are not on the market yet.
So…. I’ll just now figure they came from TLF.
As far as the “one was communication” you mention… I have no idea?? But now that I really think about what you said, it does seem BLF gets quite a bit of 2nd & 3rd hand info.
But… at least we get it. So it’s all good….
… 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
People need to stop comparing to 219B, it’s too far under the BBL to make a good comparison for 99% of LEDs
TK’s SST-20 pictures aren’t that far off from what I experience when I turn on my SST-20 95-CRI lights on lower power settings. They look VERY green.
Installing a Lee minus green filter helps a lot… but the Lee #279 filter I’m using itself has major disadvantages (14% reduction in output, color temp gets noticeably warmer. Not a Zircon filter so excessive output will damage it.).
At lower power settings the green of the SST-20 is instantly noticeable. Indoors and outdoors. And even if you don’t have a less-green light on-hand to compare it to.
I have some SST-20 FW3As on order and I’ll post colour output results whenever they arrive.
Nice, we’ll look forward to it.
I gotta tell ya, this is pretty terrific!
I got some gitd filament, made a diffuser with it.
Looks interesting with the lightning flashy.
I should be getting a really nice red later this month.
It looks great if I turn it up high enough to activate the FET… in other words, 1000+ lumens. It makes an awesome 4000K white light. At the lower levels I actually use though, it’s not even close to white.
You mean the green one?
The color samples show olive green, blue, pinkish purple, and white.
It looks like it may be somewhere between “olive” and “olive drab”, somewhere between the food and the military color.
About the purple one, I’d ideally make it a bit darker… sort of a candy grape purple or midnight purple. But this pinkish purple is good too.
I hope so too!
I like purple, and I want a moonbeam button.
I hope the logo is okay. I think people were expecting me to put my avatar or “TK” or the button, but that just seems tacky. I’d rather have some sort of simple geometric design, so I made one. “Press here for moonbeams”
It’s more that Bluzie at TLF is actively engaged in the ongoing FW3A process, and … I’m trying not to be. Now that it’s released, I mostly need to focus on other projects. And maybe a nap.
I think the ‘TK Moonbeam Button’ looks great on the ‘FW3A-TK’….
.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I’m just not seeing the green. It looks more brown/bronze. Maybe it’s my screen colors deceiving me.
Is that other one white? I didn’t think you could do white anodization. I though it was a light silver that looked a bit whitish due to the camera.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I see more dark bronze.
And it DEFINITELY says “yanny” in turbo mode.
I completely agree, and I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not overly keen on the type of purple like the one pictured. We’ve already seen lights in thst shade of purple that looks almost like fuchsia (e.g. Astrolux A01 with its horrible next-mode memory). Personally, I prefer the darker tones with a higher blue component such as Cadbury’s Purple. Or if we stay with warmer tones, maybe a dark plum / wine red. There are so many shades of purple, so why stick with what is so common? That particular shade seems over-used to me – not just in flashlights but also in other products, which imho makes it look ‘cheap’. Let’s be a bit more adventurous!
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
I agree. I hope they end up with something close to the Cadbury purple.
"This too shall pass." -- Ancient Persian saying
.
I never knew there were so many different shades of “Purple”… all with a different name.
And the ones below are just a small fraction of them….
.
.
Or…. ‘we’ could just go with ‘Barney Purple’…..
.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Convoy’s violet S2+ is a gorgeous shade of purple. I’d love to see a shade very similar to this used on the FW3A.
I gotta tell ya, this is pretty terrific!
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I like the plum color, would want even a bit more red/darkness added to give it some depth. And maybe marmorize it with a little bit black.
I have a white Emisar D4 that is quite nice. It has a grainy surface though. Not sure what the surface texture is on the white FW3A.
I think on the Emisar products they might acid etch the surface, add the white dye then seal it. I’m not sure. The grainy surface is a key that they are doing something unique. It may not be true anodization like we see with other colors, though. Here’s an article on why there’s no white.
I wonder if we can get Lumintop to comment on the white finish.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Exactly. Many people prefer light with a negative Duv, but, objectively speaking, negative and positive Duv are equally deviant from the reference standard. (Of course, there is nothing sacred about the BBL, but it does represent the light, both natural and artificial, in which humans evolved and adapted.)
As a (subjective) aside, I see little or no green in the high CRI SST 20’s (of unknown bin) in my Emisar D4S, even at low levels, although I accept that, objectively, they are above BBL. And when I light up the ship half-model above my desk, which has blues, reds, and wood tones, the SST’s are significantly richer in color than the XP-L HI 3D’s in my FW3A.
An interesting question: why do humans prefer magenta light over green?
I like the burgundy / maroon one on the left. The metallic purple 2nd from left looks a bit richer, less “lilac” than the 2nd from right.
Teal looks pretty nice too.
Original: I like the 3rd one best here, the pinkish purple.
Gotta go with the second one here, a darker purple. I like all of the colors though.
Gotta go with the second one here too, the darker more vivid magenta. The wine color on the left is nice, too.
I don’t know what we’ll actually get, but I’m liking these darker and more vivid purples people made.
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