FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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justanotherguy
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JasonWW wrote:
justanotherguy wrote:
Didn’t really think of that… If that’s it, it’d be nice to get it running with the clip on…
The clip just needs room. As long as it doesn’t prevent the tail cap from fully screwing down (with head loose, then tighten head fully), it should not make a difference in functionality. Sometimes you have to tighten pretty hard.

Derp
You were spot on. I didnt think a ‘new’ light would be in muggle. The clip is in the way. I may try to clean that area out on the lathe tomorrow to remove any PC that got in that area…
But, yea its nice that it works.
If only it was 100% orange. The part he dd looks great !

mitsuki08
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Firelight2 wrote:
Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

I agree I think the inner tube really is just too short. I tried to stick a piece of aluminum foil at the tail cap end and tied to check for continuity as JasonWW suggested and it does beep.

Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.

Cereal_killer
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FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)



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trakcon
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Cereal_killer wrote:
FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)

Wow. Any plans to do this with the FW1A?

Cereal_killer
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I have absolutely no clue, the pics were posted on their FB. I have zero inside info nor any direct communication with them in any way. Just sharing the photos here.

It seems they’ve come up with a new way to do the tail cap!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

JasonWW
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mitsuki08 wrote:

Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.

It depends on how you do it. It should be okay as long as the solder is fairly flat and thin.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)


Hmmm, seems like a rotary switch in the tail. If not, it’s a lot of extra work just for cosmetics. I’m not even sure that’s related to the FW3A. It looks like another brand entirely.

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Cereal_killer
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If you look close you can see the wider part that is the tail cap on the v1 is now all one piece with the body tube. What you’re calling a “rotary switch” is just the retainer for the tail parts (with some added flair) .
I think this is a good update that should help to reduce some of the tail cap issues.

Having said that, I 100% agree this is a different light and should be named something else, afterall FW3A = Fritz Works and this is no longer his design…

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not even sure that’s related to the FW3A. It looks like another brand entirely.

As mentioned, I got the pics and caption directly from lumintops Facebook, posted about 12am EST 11/18/19

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JasonWW
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Cereal_killer wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not even sure that’s related to the FW3A. It looks like another brand entirely.

As mentioned, I got the pics and caption directly from lumintops Facebook, posted about 12am EST 11/18/19

You say that as if it means something. Not every picture they post on there means it’s their own design or brand. They would need to say “New prototype, what do you think?” Or something that confirms it’s from them. I try not to jump to conclusions.

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Cereal_killer
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Why are you so argumentative all the time man?

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Why are you so argumentative all the time man?


Me? I’m not argumentative at all.

Nice, they confirm it is their design. (I don’t do Facebook)

This is quite the radical change.

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Gunga
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It’s ok. I like some parts but it seems too busy. Kinda ugly in some respects too.

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Gunga wrote:
It’s ok. I like some parts but it seems too busy. Kinda ugly in some respects too.

I think the opposite , but that’s taste for you lol! I love it – trouble is every time I think, ‘oh, I’ll have that one’, they bring out another! I hope it’s a 21700 quad Wink
Maybe the ‘XXX’ around the front part is a bit yucky, better off with knurling.
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Here’s another look at the F3Wa Titanium prototype: (this is not the final copy as of yet and subject to change without notice)

mortuus
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it looks cool that design but probably will cost an arm and leg..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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mortuus wrote:
it looks cool that design but probably will cost an arm and leg..

Probably… And there goes a TLF / Budget LightForum design into an expensive light …

More than that…it won’t have a 18350 body Flat Stare

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Pity that tail wasn’t redesigned for manual lockout Flat Stare

  

JasonWW
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Pity that tail wasn’t redesigned for manual lockout Flat Stare

You can still do this, just use the head.

Keep in mind it’s a switch lockout, head and or tail, not a fully mechanical, no parasitic drain lockout.

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f0xx
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The clips look happy

pinkpanda3310
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I’d like to run a lexel aux board but don’t have the know how / skill to reflash the driver so bypassing the driver is what I did. Unscrewing the head doesn’t cut power to the aux board until the springs lose contact with the battery.

Hence a tail lockout would’ve been preferable to me.

  

JasonWW
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I’d like to run a lexel aux board but don’t have the know how / skill to reflash the driver so bypassing the driver is what I did. Unscrewing the head doesn’t cut power to the aux board until the springs lose contact with the battery.

Hence a tail lockout would’ve been preferable to me.


Unscrewing the tail does the same thing. Both head and tail use bare threads, no anodization.

Maybe it’s cheap enough to mail the driver to someone who can flash it?

You’d still have to take the battery out to stop all parasitic drain, though.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Wonder if it will include a clip?

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

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mattlward wrote:
Wonder if it will include a clip?

would be weird if has to buy clip separate.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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JasonWW
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mortuus wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Wonder if it will include a clip?

would be weird if has to buy clip separate.


I guess it would depend on the cost. If the clip where to cost $30 to $40 then I could see them offering it separately.

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The prototypes for the FW3T v2 look incredible. I like them a lot more than the basic FW3T.

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I got my FW3A TK edition in the mail today and went to work on it! I swapped in some LH351D, one each in 2700K/3500K/5000K. I have about a half-dozen FWxx variants that I’ve done some emitter swaps on but I wanted to do something different with this one. (Sorry for pic-heavy post!)

I picked up a SS bezel from Neal’s and tried my hand at heating it with a torch to get some color. It’s a bit inconsistent and I heated it too much in some spots but overall I’m satisfied with the result! I also tried the same with the clip but I had a very hard time getting any color out of it. I assume it’s plated, probably with nickel. I didn’t really feel like sanding and polishing it so I just heated it until it was glowing cherry red and ended up with a nice bronze color. Not too bad! Hopefully I didn’t weaken the steel too much.

I typically like to use drilled optics with trits but I tried it this way and I think I prefer this method. It looks much better from the front. I also swapped out the factory 10511 for a 10507 because I expected the LH351Ds to be quite floody.

Three different color temp 90+ CRI LH351D.
My other FW3x’s have “FW3A” printed on the MCPCB and the hole for the alignment screw is not drilled all the way through like this one. Functionally it makes no difference; it’s just something I noticed.

FW3A TK edition; FW3T Stonewashed; FW3A OG Grey

It’s very difficult to capture the color of the emitters while shooting directly into the head of the light. This is about the best I could do after merging five exposures.

The LH351Ds under the 10507 are very floody. The hotspot is about twice as large as the SST20 with 10511. The LH351D hotspot has a very clearly defined edge where the SST20 blends smoothly into the spill. This might be due to the different optics.

The color temperature has a very cozy warm appearance with a slightly rosy tint. Unfortunately I don’t have a spectrometer, but I do have Cine Meter II and a Luxi sphere (calibrated). I can’t measure CRI but I can measure CCT and tint. Tint values seem to be on some arbitrary scale, but it’s fine for making qualitative comparisons.

Here are the measured CCT and tint values for this light with some others for comparison. Tint values are given in amount of green, so more positive is more green and negative is more magenta. Measurements were taken at about the middle of the ramp, so 1×7135 for the FW3As (I never run my lights on turbo).

FW3A TK LH351D mixed
CCT: 3700K
• Green: +10

FW3T SST20
CCT: 4000K
• Green: +12

D4V2 SST20
CCT: 4000K
• Green: +15

D4sV2 XP-L HI
CCT: 3800K
• Green: +42

Sofirn SP36 Andúril LH351D
CCT: 5300K
• Green: +16

Fireflies E07 219b SW45k
CCT: 4500K
• Green: -3

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What size trits did you end up using for that?

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riffraff wrote:
What size trits did you end up using for that?

1.5×6mm work best

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Looking great, it really expose the light out of the trits. Thumbs Up

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riffraff wrote:
What size trits did you end up using for that?

These are 1.5×6mm.

shirnask wrote:

That looks great! Might have to try combining with a drilled optic next time.

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