FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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sp5it
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Can I put 4xE21A on Noctigon into my FW3A?
Mike

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JaredM
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FET will need to be disabled

sp5it
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Thanks.

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Firelight2
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sp5it wrote:
Can I put 4xE21A on Noctigon into my FW3A?
Mike

Also the FW3A is sized for 20mm triple stars. If you want put a 24mm quad star inside you will need to file down the edge of the star and optic.
JaredM
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Centrally grouped “quadrix” arrays could work. I ran a 3500+4500k mix of e17s in my fw1a for a under a frosted ledil leila. Beautiful beam, but the emitters kept getting damaged. Those little things are DELICATE.

Firelight2
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JaredM wrote:
Centrally grouped “quadrix” arrays could work. I ran a 3500+4500k mix of e17s in my fw1a for a under a frosted ledil leila. Beautiful beam, but the emitters kept getting damaged. Those little things are DELICATE.

That can work, but the FW3A is designed for Carclo optics and only has 7mm of clearance between the star and the lens.

I suppose you could buy a stainless steel FW1A bezel if they are available. Maybe you could convert an FW3A into an FW1A this way. If you can source an appropriate reflector.

Scallywag
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Firelight2 wrote:
JaredM wrote:
Centrally grouped “quadrix” arrays could work. I ran a 3500+4500k mix of e17s in my fw1a for a under a frosted ledil leila. Beautiful beam, but the emitters kept getting damaged. Those little things are DELICATE.

That can work, but the FW3A is designed for Carclo optics and only has 7mm of clearance between the star and the lens.

I suppose you could buy a stainless steel FW1A bezel if they are available. Maybe you could convert and FW3A into an FW1A this way. If you can source an appropriate reflector.


FW1A vs FW3A have holes drilled through the shelf in different places for led wires.
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Scallywag wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
JaredM wrote:
Centrally grouped “quadrix” arrays could work. I ran a 3500+4500k mix of e17s in my fw1a for a under a frosted ledil leila. Beautiful beam, but the emitters kept getting damaged. Those little things are DELICATE.

That can work, but the FW3A is designed for Carclo optics and only has 7mm of clearance between the star and the lens.

I suppose you could buy a stainless steel FW1A bezel if they are available. Maybe you could convert and FW3A into an FW1A this way. If you can source an appropriate reflector.


FW1A vs FW3A have holes drilled through the shelf in different places for led wires.

Oh yeah.

But fortunately that’s easy to fix. Aluminum is quite soft and drills easily with any hand drill.

MascaratumB
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I’ve turned my FW1A into a kind of “mule” light but with a lens from a cheappo zoomie flashlight.

I am not using a reflector and I am actually using the FW3A bezel instead of the FW1A (the FW3A’s is shorter so it makes pressure and keeps the lens in place.

The beam is completely round, without hotspot in the center, and it quite nice for close/mid range (max. 30 – 40 m, as it looses throw). I have a Luxeon V2 4000K there, so it is a nice tint although not High CRI.

Something like this, but warmer:

Maybe those “quadtrix” LEDs could be used in the same way Wink

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ToyKeeper wrote:
d_t_a wrote:
It would appear that Lumintop has been using varying versions of Anduril firmware, and some are probably “modded” due to weird version check.

For instance, I’ve also note a new HL3A that comes with Anduril 2, with the same firmware 2021-01-25 model 322 (so they use the GT Mini firmware for the HL3A with triple-LED?)

I recently ordered a GT Mini with Osram NM1 LED variant, which came with Anduril (the former GT Mini with XPL-Hi uses NarsilM), but when I tried doing 15-clicks-from-off version check, it blinks out 1969-07-20.

At first, I thought this “1969-07-20” may just be an incorrect flash… but later on I asked someone who got a Lumintop GT3 (3x XHP70.2) with Anduril to do a version check, and it also blinks out 1969-07-20. (earlier GT3 used NarsilM, but later GT3 appears to have switched to this 1969-07-20 Anduril version)

I don’t see any firmware with “1969-07-20”, so my guess is (Lumintop?) may have modded the firmware but the date code was some bogus date..

~~~

To summarize:
so the new FW3A now comes with Anduril 2, firmware version 2021-01-25 model 322.
the new HL3A also comes with Anduril 2, firmware version 2021-01-25 model 322

GT Mini (Osram NM1) comes with Anduril 1, firmware version “1969-07-20”
later GT3 comes with Anduril 1, firmware version “1969-07-20”

That build date means they (or someone) compiled the sources themselves and didn’t use the build script. It also means they’re probably violating the license.

It’s a value I put into the default code to catch cases like this where someone built it incorrectly. It’s like how a debug version of a program will fill RAM with a value of “DEADBEEF“, because it stands out in a debugger and clearly indicates when a variable hasn’t been initialized properly.

Here’s the version.h file before it gets overridden by the build script:

// this file is replaced automatically by the build script
// set your own date here if you're not using the build script
// otherwise, default to first human contact with the moon
#define VERSION_NUMBER "19690720"

But instead of first human contact with the moon, it’s first Lumintop contact with the code.

If you ever see this date in a production light, it means someone screwed up. Like, someone at that company made a noob mistake. And if they made that mistake, it’s probably not the only one.


Have Lumintop been made aware of our distaste towards their changes to the driver and reflector in the FW1A?
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I’ve made an FW1A out of an FW3A. Definitely possible.

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https://budgetlightforum.com/node/67060

I converted my triple to a single 2+ yrs ago. I’ve gone through many configurations over the years. First was a custom, intermediate length bezel made for using an S21A reflector, then later an odd 20mm TIR. After this, I bought a SS bezel from Neal and have been using Ledil Leila optics. First with sliced SST20w, then the Nichias, and I’ve been back to a domed SST20 4000K. Pretty happy with the current setup. 22kcd with an ~11 degree spot and 95CRI. 8kcd runs indefinitely without hardly getting warm.

sergx
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Hello guys! I got my warm crees on mcpcb from kaidomain and also found soldering kit. Seems like now I’m ready to swap mcpcb on my fw3a coz it is impossible to find version with warm cree on internet right now.
But could anybody please give me some advice about this process? How can I disassemble a flashlight and not break anything the first time?
do I need to unscrew the driver from the side of the spring using two holes along the edges? Or I can just pull out mcpcb using the holes for fixing the optics? How tight is it there?
Thank you!

MascaratumB
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sergx wrote:
Hello guys! I got my warm crees on mcpcb from kaidomain and also found soldering kit. Seems like now I’m ready to swap mcpcb on my fw3a coz it is impossible to find version with warm cree on internet right now.
But could anybody please give me some advice about this process? How can I disassemble a flashlight and not break anything the first time?
do I need to unscrew the driver from the side of the spring using two holes along the edges? Or I can just pull out mcpcb using the holes for fixing the optics? How tight is it there?
Thank you!

Modding the FW3A LEDs is easy, you don’t have to mess with the driver, you only need to access the LEDs board from the top (removing the bezel, lens and optic) and then you’ll see the wires that you need to unsolder.

Make sure you don’t have a battery inside to avoid accidental short-cuts in case you touch both wires.

Good luck Wink

JaredM
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MascaratumB wrote:

Make sure you don’t have a battery inside to avoid accidental short-circuits in case you touch both wires.

Good luck Wink

This!!

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stephenk wrote:
Have Lumintop been made aware of our distaste towards their changes to the driver and reflector in the FW1A?

I’m not sure. I haven’t been in touch with Neal since 2019, and never successfully got in touch with Lumintop directly.

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Got my FW3A 9 days ago , but the UI is kinda confusing. It does not line up with the original post, with the temperature blinky being after the BattCheck. Had a look at the generic Andúril UI but still can’t set thermal limit as the light does not do the “two blinks”.

Am I doing something wrong? I just do 7H from TempCheck then wait for the first blink, then enter the current temperature. The light then just stops flickering and goes to blinking the now calibrated temperature.

Have I made a mistake in getting an “Inferior” light?

(Edit): I bought from Lumintop’s official AliExpress store.

(Edit 2): Should clarify that I have firmware 322

JaredM
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What color is the driver pcb inside the head? Purple or red?

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JaredM wrote:
What color it’s the driver pcb inside the head? Purple or red?

Red Sad (20201226) and a Golisi S26 for the battery

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To set the thermal limit you must enter TempCheck and do 7H and keep holding the button for the second blink and then let go. The first blink is for setting the current temp.

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Rayoui wrote:
To set the thermal limit you must enter TempCheck and do 7H and keep holding the button for the second blink and then let go. The first blink is for setting the current temp.

Thanks for the tip! Have I just not read the manual right?

(Edit): Yes. It didn’t make sense to me

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Anduril 1 worked as you said, where after entering the current temp the menu would then enter into temp limit setting.
Anduril 2 was changed to make it quicker to get to the specific menu item you are looking for, but it can be confusing if you haven’t used Anduril 2’s menu style before.

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FW3A with Philips diffuser

FW3A with a diffuser from a Philips LED lightbulb on a custom 3D printed mount.
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I don’t know what I did but now there is a weird flicker pattern when I ramp the light and I cannot reach full brightness. 13H does not work for reset.

https://youtu.be/9rfa3dmaavA

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Pretty sure its a software problem. Double click is dimmer then top of ramp for some reason…

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Update: for any who experience this issue disabling memory timer (which I had likely accidentally enabled) worked to fix the problem.

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