Since i received a couple D4 (Nichia and XPL) i almost forgot about this S42 fiasco. It’s sitting somewhere behind a number of other lights on a shelf… Whenever i need a light i just DONT pick this one!
Thank you all for warning me off this light. It’s a very nice looking light, and that 90CRI looks great, but I feel that I made the right decision with the D4.
Thank you all for warning me off this light. It’s a very nice looking light, and that 90CRI looks great, but I feel that I made the right decision with the D4.
You did. I dont even use this light at all. Probably my worst flashlight purchase to date
Is there another driver out there i could order and drop in with little fumbling? I guess the side switch wont help…
Could the hight CRI Nichia led board be transplanted to the D4?
can anyone compare S42 to BLF A6 in term of brightness?
sure here you go but warning it’s a low quality beamshot just for fun
I find the beam of the A6 MUCH more useful than the S42. It seems brighter in person due to the beam profile (at least it does to me), but probably the S42 has slightly more lumens
I find the beam of the A6 MUCH more useful than the S42. It seems brighter in person due to the beam profile (at least it does to me), but probably the S42 has slightly more lumens
I have the S42S (which is a SS version with a copper head), and the BLF A6, and the S42S is definitely brighter. However, you’re right that the A6 has a more useful beam, especially for outdoors. The S42S is extremely floody, and doesn’t have much throw. Great high CRI tint for indoors, or outdoors at modest distances. But I wouldn’t carry it outdoors if I needed any throw. The A6 has a very useful multi-purpose beam: floody, but with some useful throw.
Each light has its purpose, but the A6 is a more typical EDC light. I find the S42S is more of a “wow” light (with the Nichia 219 option), but not as good for EDC.
I need the precise dimensions of the S42 connection board holes
as well which voltage goes over the 2 rods and if another connection of the MCU board is required
just want to leave charging, but the old MCU disconnect so it has no standby current of 1mA because the breathing mode
I am so far with a driver, but cant finish it without this information
Since i received a couple D4 (Nichia and XPL) i almost forgot about this S42 fiasco. It’s sitting somewhere behind a number of other lights on a shelf… Whenever i need a light i just DONT pick this one!
Thank you all for warning me off this light. It’s a very nice looking light, and that 90CRI looks great, but I feel that I made the right decision with the D4.
The low mode should be lower.
You did. I dont even use this light at all. Probably my worst flashlight purchase to date
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
Green
Black
Multicolor
Green and white is fluorescent
I’m wondering what to do with this light…
Is there another driver out there i could order and drop in with little fumbling? I guess the side switch wont help…
Could the hight CRI Nichia led board be transplanted to the D4?
For what?
There’s actually enough room in the head to put in a clicky switch in stead of the e-switch.
That way you could use any driver you want.
good question
to see colors better
sure
here you go
but warning it’s a low quality beamshot just for fun
I find the beam of the A6 MUCH more useful than the S42. It seems brighter in person due to the beam profile (at least it does to me), but probably the S42 has slightly more lumens
BLF (GT, Q8, A6)
Haikelite (MT03 TA, SC01)
Astrolux (EC01, FT03, MF-01, S1, S42)
Sofirn (C8A, SP32A, SF14, SP40)
Emisar (D4, D4S)
[Convoy L6, Utorch UT02, KDLITKER C8.2, Inova T4R]
I’m not sure that Astrolux has better CRI, Yes, CRI is better, but D4 has a much better tint.Actually it does:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1140500#comment-1140500
“My collection”: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/700139#comment-700139
Yes, I already found that post.
I have the S42S (which is a SS version with a copper head), and the BLF A6, and the S42S is definitely brighter. However, you’re right that the A6 has a more useful beam, especially for outdoors. The S42S is extremely floody, and doesn’t have much throw. Great high CRI tint for indoors, or outdoors at modest distances. But I wouldn’t carry it outdoors if I needed any throw. The A6 has a very useful multi-purpose beam: floody, but with some useful throw.
Each light has its purpose, but the A6 is a more typical EDC light. I find the S42S is more of a “wow” light (with the Nichia 219 option), but not as good for EDC.
Is coupon for this light still available?
I need the precise dimensions of the S42 connection board holes
as well which voltage goes over the 2 rods and if another connection of the MCU board is required
just want to leave charging, but the old MCU disconnect so it has no standby current of 1mA because the breathing mode
I am so far with a driver, but cant finish it without this information
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Astrolux S42 driver designed
Running NarsilM
FET+6+1
sale topic
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56618
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
cool!
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if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
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