NarsilM - configurable e-switch firmware for Multi channels, new v1.2 BETA

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Tom E
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Uhhh, well, it has to be configured for your driver. It's a very flexible driver, supporting several configurations, but has to be configured for the driver. So you just used the .HEX from the download? Then that's for a FET+1 driver, like the BLF Q8 - the HEX file won't work.

Let me review the driver - I could post up a HEX file pre-compiled for this driver, I think... Let me check.

 

The raptorclaw is the 7135 in the upper right - the symbol looks like an eagle claw, or raptor claw. The sailboat (bad one) is in the upper left - symbol looks like a sailboat.

 

steel - I assume you can download and program, but you can't compile the code? You don't have the Atmel studio installed?

steel_1024
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I understand a little bit …

As I use this NarsilM.hex on L6 (XHP70.2 2S), it is also wrong, and can not work.

7135 good or bad is not related?

I have to learn how to set and compile the firmware NarsilM.hex

I always thought same as TA driver.
Download .hex and flash.

Sorry for my poor english.

Tom E
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Ok, I added a HEX file into the NarsilM folder on the google drive. The HEX is called: NarsilMv10-32S.hex, heres the link:

https://drive.google.com - NarsilMv10-32S.HEX.

So this is for 3 channels, 2S battery configuration. I have pre-defined header files to use for Setup.h:

Setups-1Chan.h - single output channel, 1S battery

Setups-31S.h - 3 channels (7135-7135 bank-FET) and a 1S battery

Setups-32S.h - 3 channels (7135-7135 bank-FET) and a 2S battery

Setups-Q8.h - 2 channels (FET+1, 1 7135) and a 1S battery

 Please try this HEX file for the MF01 driver, and can also be used for the L6 you have, I believe.

For the 7135's, maybe they will be ok, can't be sure. You might have to crank up the PWM value for moon mode though, if it's not a raptor claw one.

 

 

steel_1024
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Thank you very much Tom E.

I will try.

Thumbs Up

Sorry for my poor english.

patmurris
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I’m not sure how related those comments can be regarding NarsilM…

I just had my first experience with a Narsil based UI – a stripped down ramping only version as i understand, with the Emisar D4 and i have a few issues. Here is what i reported in the D4 thread:

patmurris wrote:
A few comments about the ramping UI:

I like how smooth and fast it reacts and that the current level stays in memory for the next turn on. However if i set the light to some mid level i like and next use the shortcut to moon for instance (long press from off) and turn the light off, the next time it will also start on moon with a single click – the memorized mid level has been ‘erased’ by moon, even though i didn’t use ramping. Same thing if i fired a quick burst of max output (double click from off) and turned off without ramping. Next time it turns on at max level which may be unexpected and quite annoying.

In both case, the memorized level was forgotten and one of the shortcut has become redundant. I would have expected the memory to persist until some ramping occur.

Another suggestion i would make would be to have an option to limit ramping to a level that the light can at least sustain for a few minutes without stepping down or becoming ridiculously (and possibly dangerously) hot. It’s actually too easy to go overboard with this light. On most lights with a turbo mode of some sort, you have to do something special to trigger it – at least click through the other modes for instance.

On a similar note, while ramping i can double click to turbo, but then the only option is to ramp back down. I would have expected a single click to go back to the previous level.

Once again i’ve no idea whether this is relevant to NarsilM which i haven’t had the chance to try. Waiting for the Q8 and FW3A…

Tom E
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I developed the D4 firmware under a pretty strict set of requirements. With NarsilM, I don't have any restrictions. When ramping was added, there was a great deal of discussions goin on the BLF Q8 thread on it, so I implemented a lot of those suggestions, most of them, including that turbo and moon won't be "remembered", unless you ramp to them.

So I think NarsilM acts as you want it to act.

ToyKeeper
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patmurris wrote:
Emisar D4 … while ramping i can double click to turbo, but then the only option is to ramp back down. I would have expected a single click to go back to the previous level.

A double-click goes to turbo, and another double-click goes back to the previous level.

On the D4, if you single-click at turbo, it shuts off and remembers turbo as your memorized mode. But on my newer stuff, turbo and moon are only remembered if you manually ramp to them. And NarsilM has done it that way for months.

More generally, NarsilM is a newer, upgraded version of the D4 code which does almost everything better. I added a few things to the D4 which aren’t in NarsilM yet, but not much.

steel_1024
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I tried NarsilMv10-32S.HEX on L6.
It can work properly. Big Smile

but,
In the MF-01, only when the power on, blink twice, and then e-switch can not operate, even turn on the flashlight.

MF-01 driver, I will reassemble one to test.

Sorry for my poor english.

Tom E
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Weird - should always be on pin #2 for the switch. Again, not familiar with this board though.

Lexel
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I did check the MF01 board layout again, it is identical to SRK 46mm build

To identify any faults its recommended to measure connection from the MCU to the other components, as well check the supply voltage behind the LDO

patmurris
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@Tom & TK: thanks for the answers. I was just providing my limited experience feedback about the D4… Glad to hear those issues have been ironed out. Thumbs Up

Still, i believe ramping should be constrained to the ‘safe range’ – where the light will handle the heat. Turbo should be an extra step the user decides to take for a short lapse of time – not something you run into just because you keep you finger pressed on the switch half a second too long.

steel_1024
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I found where is the problem.
The switch on the PCB is not grounded.
Now, NarsilM can operate

However, When ramp to the lowest brightness, can not drive all 18 LED, so no brightness.

Thanks Tom, Lexel

Sorry for my poor english.

JasonWW
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You should be able to turn up the brightness of moon mode in the settings.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Tom E
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That's probably a sympton of the 7135, the worse 7135's don't do well at low PWM's. In my 16X XHP50 light, the low PWM's work fine in lighting up all 16 LED's. I'm working right now on a similar setup - the MT03, 3 XHP70.2's and this driver: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1103283#comment-1103283.

 

Lexel
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steel_1024 wrote:
I found where is the problem.
The switch on the PCB is not grounded.
Now, NarsilM can operate

However, When ramp to the lowest brightness, can not drive all 18 LED, so no brightness.

Thanks Tom, Lexel

!https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36704230481_4035a39dd7_z.jpg!

yeah you are right I didnt check the switch ground, for some reason all automatic checks did not notice it

new fixed layout
Order from OSH Park

Tom E
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Those 2S drivers should definitely have a C3, as recommended by DEL. I also have a C4 on the one I just did.

This post has his Yezl Y3 2S board with the C3: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117458#comment-1117458

DEL's take:

  • 3 goes across Bat+, Bat-. Basically where C1 used to be. 4.7 uF or 10 uF should be good.
  • C4 goes across the FET (drain to source). Should be 0.1 uF, bigger will be counter-productive.

Both help to suppress the inductive spike seen at FET (and even 7135) turn-off. They do not seem to be necessary for 1S lights, but both you and Tom had failed 7135s with 2S.

Here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52397?page=6, post #189

 

Lexel
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I did also add C3 and C4 pads to Q8 2S driver

30mm TA driver

Tom E
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oh, ok, cool!!

Just fired up the MT03 - all seems to work ok so far. Not getting big power, but didn't bypass any springs yet. Wasn't sure how crazy the amps would get. Measured 14,600 lumens at turn on with VTC6's at 4.15V, drops to low 13,000's in 30 secs. Was expecting to break 20K, but guess I gotta least bypass springs. Not sure about their battery MCPCB's, and the setup in general.

Tom E
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Hhmm. Tried VTC5A's at 4.19V, did better, but from the 30 second test, I got about 100 lumens with the switch off, and it's staying that way... Sounds like I fried the 7135, so dunno bout the C3 and C4 helping...

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Hi Tom E.
As I just posted in the TA drivers thread, last night I finished my MT03 mod successfully.
I’m using an TA46-LDO driver with only the FET (no 7135), flashed with NarsilM.
This combo is working fine, with battery voltage reading, LVP, temperature reading/control and custom modes for the MT03.
Perhaps this setup could be interesting to yours needs.
I would be glad if could help you.

Tom E
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Yea, you read my mind, or, guess I read yours! That's exactly what I was thinking, but I'll let DEL know - he's been helping me out with these high powered lights. My 16X XHP50 light seems pretty stable now - I did have to replace the 7135 once.

steel_1024
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add C3, C4. Is this right?

Sorry for my poor english.

Lexel
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steel_1024 wrote:
add C3, C4. Is this right?


C3 2. pad is battery – or ground

you may go with a wire directly to a 7135 fin, middle leg like you did
or can be soldered to the small ground strip above R2 and below the LED- copper poure
or to the lane going to the middle pad of the LDO below the “T” viases


Order from OSH Park

steel_1024
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C3 10uF, From battery+ (wire)to battery-

battery- =ground?
or
LED- =ground?

Sorry for my poor english.

Tom E
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Ground is always BATT-, not LED-. LED- is the output of the FET.

steel_1024
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Ok

I think I should be able to install this driver and power up.

Sorry for my poor english.

Tom E
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Steel - you are on the bleeding edge here - untested, new territory, where no man has gone before, etc... Throw in a couple "should work"'s, and that's where things are. I had the "known good" raptor claw 7135 on my driver, plus the C3 and C4 I think properly installed, and still my 7135 apparently blew up.

DEL suggested I use the FET with the 7135 turned off (here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52397), so for ramping, that means a new ramping table and for mode sets, new values. Again though, nothing proven yet.

emarkd
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I flashed the pre-compiled NarsilMv10-32S.HEX file on my TA triple-channel driver last night, which is in my L6. Thanks for providing that. I’ve got an issue though — LVP triggers at max output no matter the voltage. Brand new cells trip LVP in a few seconds, and once it steps down it only runs a few more seconds before flashing and stepping down again, over and over again. I’ve had earlier Narsil code on this driver before and it didn’t do this. Any ideas on how to go about fixing it?

Tom E
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emarkd wrote:
I flashed the pre-compiled NarsilMv10-32S.HEX file on my TA triple-channel driver last night, which is in my L6. Thanks for providing that. I've got an issue though -- LVP triggers at max output no matter the voltage. Brand new cells trip LVP in a few seconds, and once it steps down it only runs a few more seconds before flashing and stepping down again, over and over again. I've had earlier Narsil code on this driver before and it didn't do this. Any ideas on how to go about fixing it?

Oh boy, that requires very specific values for R1 and R2 - what values are you using?

emarkd
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Tom E wrote:

Oh boy, that requires very specific values for R1 and R2 – what values are you using?

To be honest I don’t remember for sure, but I don’t know why I would’ve deviated from TAs parts list, in which he says this:

R1 : 19.1 k (220 k for e-switch lights, 360k for 2S setups like the L6 driver)
R2 : 4.7 k (47 k for e-switch lights)

Since I built this out for Narsil since in the beginning I’m sure I would’ve used the e-switch options. I’ll have to pull it back apart later tonight and check to be sure. Might be easier to ask what values I should be using so I can just swap them when I’m in there, if needed. Smile

Thanks sir!

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