thanks for the review
have you tried using the tailcap from the skilhunt h03? if the threading is the same as all the other astrolux it will match (only thing is, you need to move the oring to the threading groove)
zak.wilson wrote:
mud_muncher wrote:
Just curious…. If it is pulling 10amps of the 30q (9.95amp) and say the nominal voltage at that current is 3.8v on a full charge isn’t that around a 38w torch? Why is it only rated at 1630lm? even with the “less efficient” lumen output of the 219c it should be close to 3000 lumens? Even at that level as there is 4 emitters so each is not being pushed really hard.
maukka tested the efficiency at 48lm/w on the ~450 lumen mode. That’s atrocious efficiency. It probably uses a really crappy FET.
Simple solution to the USB cover problem: I thought I would have to cover it with Gaffer tape, but there is a simpler inbuilt way: just slide the clip around, until its tip is on top of the unruly cover §;-) – it also gives you the right grip with switch facing you and clip locked in your fingers. – I am not a technical nerd so could someone enlighten me on the reason for the need of an unprotected battery ? – Is it only a question on physical size or will a protected battery damage the flashligt or damage itself ? – I first ordered a Soshine 18350 and it does fit, even being a protected one, – and the light seems to work. I have the recommended: Keeppower 3.7V IMR 18350 750mAh – on its way, should I also expect it to put out more power ? – as it has the very high: Max 15A discharge
Unprotected batteries are usually recommended for high-drain lights because many protection circuits will, or should trip when the light is used on its highest setting. They also add resistance, decreasing current and output.
The best 18350 is the Aspire INR 1300 mAh1. It’s rare that there’s a single unambiguous best in any product category, but this is one of those rare cases. With a true capacity of nearly 1200 mAh and better high-current performance than any other 18350, the Aspire is the 18350 to use right now.
I got this mail from Banggood today, hopefully everyone did or else you have it here:
From : cservicesz@banggood.com
Dear customer,
This is Mandy from banggood . Thanks for your order .
We are sorry that the issue of Astrolux S42 battery tube design has a little bit shorter that may cause some 18350 / 16340 batteries are not compatible with, and the usb cover is higher than the flashlight body which may cause the usb cover to be easily to be opened.
After re-researched and retested by manufacturers and the assessor, we have redesigned and produced the Astrolux S42 battery tube and the usb silicone cover which can be compatible with the currently popular 18350/16340 battery and the Astrolux S42 usb port.
We will resend you these two parts for free to your address before 08.07.2017.
If your address has any changed, please reply the the new address to us before 05.07.2017.
It will appreciated if you send a short video （youtube link ）to us when the item have any issue ,we will make a solve way to you as soon as possible .
We apologize for all inconvenience and thanks for your great support.
In addition, we will provide you a 16% OFF coupon for all Astrolux products, the coupon code is “ALTCS” and the using date is from 01.07.2017 to 20.07.2017.
Thanks again for your kindness and understanding to Banggood and Astrolux brand.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or suggestions, we will bring you a better quality consumer experience.
The light will never be any good because of the messed up user interface, but the extremely out of focus optic certainly challenges the UI in things done wrong in this light, I have rarely seen an uglier beam profile.
The focus problem is because the optic rests on two small opposite ridges on the inside of the head that are too high up. Because removing plastic is easier than removing aluminium, I filed a bit off the optic on both sides to make it sit deeper, closer to the leds. I broke off one of the legs of the optic in the process, but in the end the light closed up fine.
Because the optic now falls inside the head, to make the glass lens still clamp the optic in position, I added a paperclip ring on top of the optic (a silicon o-ring did not work, it twisted out of position when closing the bezel)
The paperclip does not spoil the looks of the flashlight.
And the beam is as it should be.
thanks this was my first TIR light and I thought the Beam is OK
I did glue the paperclip only on 2 sides where the optics is filed down because otherwise it blocked light from the TIR
after I modded the TIR I could see it does throw better and beam looks better overall
if you need a driver how about a TA one I can make you one with Narsil just for material costs, the light is great with Narsil
Here a picture with old tube and Convoy Tube and 2 Efest batteries
The protected button top Efest fits very tight with stock spring, as I cut it a bit shorter it fits without any problems
the new USB cover fits better does not get loose to easy
its not perfectly symetrical from production process
but getting it pushed in the hole was not easy some grease did the trick
removing the old one ripped of the part inside the flashlight
Here a picture with old tube and Convoy Tube and 2 Efest batteries
The protected button top Efest fits very tight with stock spring, as I cut it a bit shorter it fits without any problems
the new USB cover fits better does not get loose to easy
its not perfectly symetrical from production process
but getting it pushed in the hole was not easy some grease did the trick
@mrheosuper
when you press a battery in the tube, the bottom of the battery had to be below the rim of the tube. If it sticks out the tailcap can’t make contact.
This is one strange flashlight ! – I wanted it as a pocket rocket, so the 18350 was the attraction for me. And then all the frustration started. – I bought unprotected Soshine 18350 and later Keeppower IMR 18350, and was pretty sure the light was defective. I could only do turbo 2- 3 times before it stopped working. zak.wilson´s Aspire INR 1300 mAh advice saved me. After 2-3 months of jumping through a lot of hoops, I finally succeeded in getting these and now the light works as expected. Banggood advised to use the Keeppower, but they do seem to know what they are talking about. The UI is also strange, now I finally realized, that you can not shut off the light from moonlight mode, it goes only into turbo. The light also taught me, that I do not like a light with as little throw as this…. How I love me favorite Thorfires VG15, VG 25 and the new giant killer TK15S, which Aliexpress is selling for at little as $ 15, what a bargain. They have the perfect balance between flood and throw, the VG15 a bit too floody maybe, so you get a thick white cloud in front of you, if there is much moisture in the air. – Wonder if you guys could make the pocket rocket work properly with other batteries than Aspire ?
Banggood has offered me the chance to help them improve the driver in this light.
So the plan is to make a replacement lower driver with a Texas Avenger layout and use Narsil.
The issue comes from the charging, it looks like if we want the charging to work, we have to put up with a 1ma drain or no indicator LED’s?
Tough choice.
That is unless someone has experience with USB charging circuits, I have never messed with them myself but if we could come up with our own circuit that would be even better.
Banggood has offered me the chance to help them improve the driver in this light.
So the plan is to make a replacement lower driver with a Texas Avenger layout and use Narsil.
The issue comes from the charging, it looks like if we want the charging to work, we have to put up with a 1ma drain or no indicator LED’s?
Tough choice.
That is unless someone has experience with USB charging circuits, I have never messed with them myself but if we could come up with our own circuit that would be even better.
Smart choice from Banggood. Now I might actually buy one of these.
Is it the side switch indicator led that is causing the drain? This seems higher than usual. Normally it would be about a 1/5 of that, 0.200 milliamp.
Or is it something to do with the charing circuit that causes it to be so high? I’m unclear on this. Frankly, driver design is a bit over my head so I’m probably not much help.
I can tell you that on the 2 lights I use everyday (in my sig) the lack of the Narsil “indictator” function is not an issue. Having some type of light is helpful though, as it shows when power is connected. If they have some clear switch covers then a small led light shining through should be doable at a low parasitic drain.
A note can be added to the manual that if you don’t want any drain, turn the tail cap 1/4 turn and make sure the light turns off. Simple.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Banggood has offered me the chance to help them improve the driver in this light.
So the plan is to make a replacement lower driver with a Texas Avenger layout and use Narsil.
The issue comes from the charging, it looks like if we want the charging to work, we have to put up with a 1ma drain or no indicator LED’s?
Tough choice.
That is unless someone has experience with USB charging circuits, I have never messed with them myself but if we could come up with our own circuit that would be even better.
Smart choice from Banggood. Now I might actually buy one of these.
Is it the side switch indicator led that is causing the drain? This seems higher than usual. Normally it would be about a 1/5 of that, 0.200 milliamp.
Or is it something to do with the charing circuit that causes it to be so high? I’m unclear on this. Frankly, driver design is a bit over my head so I’m probably not much help.
I can tell you that on the 2 lights I use everyday (in my sig) the lack of the Narsil “indictator” function is not an issue. Having some type of light is helpful though, as it shows when power is connected. If they have some clear switch covers then a small led light shining through should be doable at a low parasitic drain.
A note can be added to the manual that if you don’t want any drain, turn the tail cap 1/4 turn and make sure the light turns off. Simple.
I actually have no idea where the drain is coming from since I broke the driver when trying to remove it from the S42. So I can’t test it to figure it out.
I am just going on what Lexel reported earlier in this thread.
1ma is about right for an active MCU though, so it kind of figured that would be right.
At this point the simplest option is to leave the charging circuit alone and just deal with the 1ma drain, still a massive improvement to get Narsil and a good LED driver.
I do not have the S42 but would consider it with upgrades specified.
For charging boards I recently finished a light using one. I get 0.350mA drain with one green indicator LED in the SW button. There is also a red for charge indicator.
And forget the Micro USB plug too, I want to see a Waterproof magnetic connector like I have integrated into my Lil’ light.
The ME4056 Nanjing Micro One Electronics Inc. Charge controller chip is on the little board I used. It shuts off to a Low current state state.
I do not understand most of the technical electronics stuff but here is a link to a post I made on the boards I bought. Datasheets are linked too. ME4056 Tiny charge board similar to TP4056 Link to the Clone M3 build specs in post #11
I do not have the S42 but would consider it with upgrades specified.
For charging boards I recently finished a light using one. I get 0.350mA drain with one green indicator LED in the SW button. There is also a red for charge indicator.
And forget the Micro USB plug too, I want to see a Waterproof magnetic connector like I have integrated into my Lil’ light.
The ME4056 Nanjing Micro One Electronics Inc. Charge controller chip is on the little board I used. It shuts off to a Low current state state.
I do not understand most of the technical electronics stuff but here is a link to a post I made on the boards I bought. Datasheets are linked too. ME4056 Tiny charge board similar to TP4056 Link to the Clone M3 build specs in post #11
Interesting, it is simple enough to use, the question is how reliable is it? I suppose it won’t be worse then the existing charge controller on the S42.
I wish that TI or a more mainstream manufacture had a chip like this, I would trust it a lot more. I could not find anything when search though. Course I am swamped with the GT GB right now.
Can’t speak for reliability but it does have 10+ charges on it. I didn’t thermally sink the chip in the light at all. It does not get hot while charging, mildly warm.
My Clone M3 original charge circuit died on the first use.
Charge chip is made by the same Co that makes the supposedly better 7135 with the claw marking. The TopPower charge chip TP4056 is cloned to death. At least these would be original manufacturer. Minimal parts needed with it as the tiny design shows.
It looks like it has a 1% tolerance, so it could charge up to a max of 2.42v, a bit high for my liking but not totally unacceptable. About what most cheap chargers out there do and getting a better chip would add a lot of cost.
If anyone knows of a better chip like this, please let me know. Otherwise I will look into this chip a bit deeper and see if I can just remake the charging circuit from scratch. It says the chip itself has a very low parasitic drain.
I’m curious about the Astrolux S42 (Nichia 219C) compared to the Astrolux S41 (Nichia 219B) — any idae if using the same 18650 and setting to turbo mode, would their light output be similar? Or are the 2 have different drivers (the have the same BLF A6 UI, except the S42 uses a side e-switch?)
I’m curious about the Astrolux S42 (Nichia 219C) compared to the Astrolux S41 (Nichia 219B) — any idae if using the same 18650 and setting to turbo mode, would their light output be similar? Or are the 2 have different drivers (the have the same BLF A6 UI, except the S42 uses a side e-switch?)
I measured here with very thick cables on my mod 18A on a fresh 18650 cell
Banggood has offered me the chance to help them improve the driver in this light.
I was just curious. Did you do any work with HaikeLite to help improve their drivers? They are saying their MT09R and recent versions of the MT03 are using a new TA based FET driver, but their own UI. I didn’t know if you assisted them or if they just “borrowed” your driver design.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
thanks for the review
have you tried using the tailcap from the skilhunt h03? if the threading is the same as all the other astrolux it will match (only thing is, you need to move the oring to the threading groove)
:s :s :s
Simple solution to the USB cover problem: I thought I would have to cover it with Gaffer tape, but there is a simpler inbuilt way: just slide the clip around, until its tip is on top of the unruly cover §;-) – it also gives you the right grip with switch facing you and clip locked in your fingers. – I am not a technical nerd so could someone enlighten me on the reason for the need of an unprotected battery ? – Is it only a question on physical size or will a protected battery damage the flashligt or damage itself ? – I first ordered a Soshine 18350 and it does fit, even being a protected one, – and the light seems to work. I have the recommended: Keeppower 3.7V IMR 18350 750mAh – on its way, should I also expect it to put out more power ? – as it has the very high: Max 15A discharge
Just tried a H03 tailcap as suggested above and it works great.
Its also about 3/8“overall shorter….thanks for the suggestion.
Unprotected batteries are usually recommended for high-drain lights because many protection circuits will, or should trip when the light is used on its highest setting. They also add resistance, decreasing current and output.
The best 18350 is the Aspire INR 1300 mAh1. It’s rare that there’s a single unambiguous best in any product category, but this is one of those rare cases. With a true capacity of nearly 1200 mAh and better high-current performance than any other 18350, the Aspire is the 18350 to use right now.
[1] http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Aspire%20INR18350%201300mAh%20(Black-yellow)%20UK.html – because I’m not sure how to escape the parens in that URL for BLF
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Thank you zak.wilson – very informative !
I got this mail from Banggood today, hopefully everyone did or else you have it here: From : cservicesz@banggood.com Dear customer, This is Mandy from banggood . Thanks for your order . We are sorry that the issue of Astrolux S42 battery tube design has a little bit shorter that may cause some 18350 / 16340 batteries are not compatible with, and the usb cover is higher than the flashlight body which may cause the usb cover to be easily to be opened.After re-researched and retested by manufacturers and the assessor, we have redesigned and produced the Astrolux S42 battery tube and the usb silicone cover which can be compatible with the currently popular 18350/16340 battery and the Astrolux S42 usb port.
We will resend you these two parts for free to your address before 08.07.2017.
If your address has any changed, please reply the the new address to us before 05.07.2017.
It will appreciated if you send a short video （youtube link ）to us when the item have any issue ,we will make a solve way to you as soon as possible .
We apologize for all inconvenience and thanks for your great support.
In addition, we will provide you a 16% OFF coupon for all Astrolux products, the coupon code is “ALTCS” and the using date is from 01.07.2017 to 20.07.2017.
Thanks again for your kindness and understanding to Banggood and Astrolux brand.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or suggestions, we will bring you a better quality consumer experience.
Best regards Mandy
thanks this was my first TIR light and I thought the Beam is OK
I did glue the paperclip only on 2 sides where the optics is filed down because otherwise it blocked light from the TIR
after I modded the TIR I could see it does throw better and beam looks better overall
if you need a driver how about a TA one I can make you one with Narsil just for material costs, the light is great with Narsil
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Where do I sign up? Love the looks and feel of this light. Absolutely HATE the UI.
Gotta love the Swedish postal service – $9 added to every package from China…
The material only was for djozz, for anyone else here,
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54838
4. batch first drivers expexted in about 2 weeks to be build
NarsilM 12.5$
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
So the new 18350 tube arived
with it longer 18350 batteries fit
Here a picture with old tube and Convoy Tube and 2 Efest batteries
The protected button top Efest fits very tight with stock spring, as I cut it a bit shorter it fits without any problems
the new USB cover fits better does not get loose to easy
its not perfectly symetrical from production process
but getting it pushed in the hole was not easy some grease did the trick
removing the old one ripped of the part inside the flashlight
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
how can i know if my battery tube is the new or the old one
Can you measure the length of the new battery tube, thanks
Forgot my pen
the new USB cover fits better does not get loose to easy
…………
The new bit they added is too small and not fit tightly in the metal usb female.
The length of the new tube is 40.4mm .
Thats 3.4mm longer than the old one
@mrheosuper
when you press a battery in the tube, the bottom of the battery had to be below the rim of the tube. If it sticks out the tailcap can’t make contact.
thanks, mine is 40.2mm, i guess i have new one
Forgot my pen
Astrolux S42 driver designed
Running NarsilM
FET+6+1
sale topic
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56618
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
This is one strange flashlight ! – I wanted it as a pocket rocket, so the 18350 was the attraction for me. And then all the frustration started. – I bought unprotected Soshine 18350 and later Keeppower IMR 18350, and was pretty sure the light was defective. I could only do turbo 2- 3 times before it stopped working. zak.wilson´s Aspire INR 1300 mAh advice saved me. After 2-3 months of jumping through a lot of hoops, I finally succeeded in getting these and now the light works as expected. Banggood advised to use the Keeppower, but they do seem to know what they are talking about. The UI is also strange, now I finally realized, that you can not shut off the light from moonlight mode, it goes only into turbo. The light also taught me, that I do not like a light with as little throw as this…. How I love me favorite Thorfires VG15, VG 25 and the new giant killer TK15S, which Aliexpress is selling for at little as $ 15, what a bargain. They have the perfect balance between flood and throw, the VG15 a bit too floody maybe, so you get a thick white cloud in front of you, if there is much moisture in the air. – Wonder if you guys could make the pocket rocket work properly with other batteries than Aspire ?
As an aside note, those Aspire 18350 are not being made any longer.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
What?
I thought they are only relabeled to Aspire 1100mAh ?
Both Aspire and KeepPower 18350 cells have stopped production.
You can read more about it here.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1217364#comment-1217364
I don’t know anything about the 1100 mah cells. I don’t even use 18350, but I remembered reading about them.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Banggood has offered me the chance to help them improve the driver in this light.
So the plan is to make a replacement lower driver with a Texas Avenger layout and use Narsil.
The issue comes from the charging, it looks like if we want the charging to work, we have to put up with a 1ma drain or no indicator LED’s?
Tough choice.
That is unless someone has experience with USB charging circuits, I have never messed with them myself but if we could come up with our own circuit that would be even better.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Smart choice from Banggood. Now I might actually buy one of these.
Is it the side switch indicator led that is causing the drain? This seems higher than usual. Normally it would be about a 1/5 of that, 0.200 milliamp.
Or is it something to do with the charing circuit that causes it to be so high? I’m unclear on this. Frankly, driver design is a bit over my head so I’m probably not much help.
I can tell you that on the 2 lights I use everyday (in my sig) the lack of the Narsil “indictator” function is not an issue. Having some type of light is helpful though, as it shows when power is connected. If they have some clear switch covers then a small led light shining through should be doable at a low parasitic drain.
A note can be added to the manual that if you don’t want any drain, turn the tail cap 1/4 turn and make sure the light turns off. Simple.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I actually have no idea where the drain is coming from since I broke the driver when trying to remove it from the S42. So I can’t test it to figure it out.
I am just going on what Lexel reported earlier in this thread.
1ma is about right for an active MCU though, so it kind of figured that would be right.
At this point the simplest option is to leave the charging circuit alone and just deal with the 1ma drain, still a massive improvement to get Narsil and a good LED driver.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I do not have the S42 but would consider it with upgrades specified.
For charging boards I recently finished a light using one. I get 0.350mA drain with one green indicator LED in the SW button. There is also a red for charge indicator.
And forget the Micro USB plug too, I want to see a Waterproof magnetic connector like I have integrated into my Lil’ light.
The ME4056 Nanjing Micro One Electronics Inc. Charge controller chip is on the little board I used. It shuts off to a Low current state state.
I do not understand most of the technical electronics stuff but here is a link to a post I made on the boards I bought. Datasheets are linked too.
ME4056 Tiny charge board similar to TP4056
Link to the Clone M3 build specs in post #11
View BLF with NO Commercials Here!
Interesting, it is simple enough to use, the question is how reliable is it? I suppose it won’t be worse then the existing charge controller on the S42.
I wish that TI or a more mainstream manufacture had a chip like this, I would trust it a lot more. I could not find anything when search though. Course I am swamped with the GT GB right now.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Can’t speak for reliability but it does have 10+ charges on it. I didn’t thermally sink the chip in the light at all. It does not get hot while charging, mildly warm.
My Clone M3 original charge circuit died on the first use.
Charge chip is made by the same Co that makes the supposedly better 7135 with the claw marking. The TopPower charge chip TP4056 is cloned to death. At least these would be original manufacturer. Minimal parts needed with it as the tiny design shows.
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It looks like it has a 1% tolerance, so it could charge up to a max of 2.42v, a bit high for my liking but not totally unacceptable. About what most cheap chargers out there do and getting a better chip would add a lot of cost.
If anyone knows of a better chip like this, please let me know. Otherwise I will look into this chip a bit deeper and see if I can just remake the charging circuit from scratch. It says the chip itself has a very low parasitic drain.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I’m curious about the Astrolux S42 (Nichia 219C) compared to the Astrolux S41 (Nichia 219B) — any idae if using the same 18650 and setting to turbo mode, would their light output be similar? Or are the 2 have different drivers (the have the same BLF A6 UI, except the S42 uses a side e-switch?)
I measured here with very thick cables on my mod 18A on a fresh 18650 cell
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Just got mine today, great little light but the UI really is quite annoying. Would definitely be interested in an upgraded driver!
I was just curious. Did you do any work with HaikeLite to help improve their drivers? They are saying their MT09R and recent versions of the MT03 are using a new TA based FET driver, but their own UI. I didn’t know if you assisted them or if they just “borrowed” your driver design.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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