The light was supplied by Banggood, no compensation other than the light itself was received for this review
The light is a pre production sample, so there might be improvements for the final light
The price can be lowered with Freeme coupon here
This is my 4. light that was supplied by Banggood for a review, I am honest and will judge the light as it is with its pros and cons
Manufactory specification:
I did edit the errors in it
Product name: Astrolux MF-01 18x XP-G3/Nichia 219C 12000LM LED Flashlight
Brand: Astrolux
Model: MF-01
Emitter Type: XP-G3/*Nichia 219C*
Light temperature: 6000-7000K,5000K
Light color: Cool white, Neutral white
Material: Aerospace grade aluminum alloy
Total Emitters: 18x
Mode: Low, Middle, High, Turbo,+ Strobe, SOS, Location Beacon
Lumens: 100LM, 600LM, 5100LM, 12000LM (Samsung 30Q)
Runtime: 500h, 14h ,4h, 30min (Samsung 30Q)
Battery Configurations: 2 × 18650/4 × 18650 battery (not included)
Voltage Input: 5.5V-9V
Switch Type: Clicky
Switch Location: Body side of the flashlight
Peak Beam Intensity: 53960cd
Impact Resistant 1.5m
Max Output: 12000Lumens (XP-G3)(tested with 4×18650)
Range: 450meters (max)
Lens: Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass with anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: IPX-7 waterproof
Color: Black
Weight: 550g (without battery)
Size: 125mm x 72mm x 52mm (length x head x body diameter)
Features:
• Utilizes 18 x XP-G3/Nichia 219C LEDs, max output up to 12000 lumens
• Powered by 2x/4×18650 batteries.
• Max runtime up to 500 hours
• Max throw up to 450 meters
• 4 brightness levels and 3 special functions available
• High Efficiency constant current circuit
• Direct thermal path(DTP) copper board
• Breathing light and lockout design
• Breathing light displays battery voltage
• Integration and high efficiency optical lens
• One single switch provides access to all functions
• Made from aerospace grade aluminum alloy
• HAIII hard anodizing
• Waterproof in accordance with IPX7
• Tail stand
Package included:
1 x Astrolux MF-01 18x XP-G3/Nichia 219C 12000LM LED Flashlight
1 x Tripod Mount Screw
1 x O-rings
1 x Lanyard
1 x Manual
There are some errors in the original specs
- the Nichia are neutral white, while they are described as warm white
- Sumsang Q30, Utilises, aluminium, Nicha and anodising spelled wrong
- some spaces are missing after the comma
The parcel arrived after 11 days shipping with to Germany which is very fast from China.
Package and content:
The lights box came packed well with a plenty wrap around and in a plastic bag
The light comes in a solid card box
the box is also coated with plastic the tape gets off without any residue or damage
The box has a compartment for the light and a bag with small parts
It comes with 2 spare o-rings, lanyard, thread adapter and manual, but in my case the manual is missing
Photos of the light
Comparism and teardown:
Size compared to other 18650 lights, I do not own SRK size lights, the MF-01 is a bit bigger than them as the head has a lager diameter than the battery tube
Beam color is neutral around 5000K for the Nichia 219C model, the Nichia has a nice uniform beam and color rendering is great
The LEDs are reflowed ok could be better and the MCPCB is perfectly flat, but not polished
Unfortunately on my sample there was a little solder under the LED board and the heat paste was not evenly spread
and some small dust particles on the domes of some LEDs
from left to right the lights get warmer, picture taken @5000K camera setting
left Astrolux S42 Nichia 219C 5000K, Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 5000K, XPL HD 1A 6500K
The LEDs in this light are available XP-G3 and Nichia 219C
The light can be taken apart completely, nothing is glued
The light has a massive tail cap with holes for a lanyard, and tail stands rock solid
The head has a diameter of 72mm and 62mm visible of the TIR optic
The battery carrier comes with a warning not to put in the batteries in reverse polarity
The driver can’t be pulled out easily, the LED leads have to be unsoldered
The light uses 3 separate buck regulators
The light can be physical locked out by twisting the tail cap or head about a 1/2 turn
The Head
the TIR is a medium throw, gives a nice uniform beam with some spill
the Nichia LEDs fit in nicely and the majority of them seem all to be centered perfectly
the LEDs are wired in 3 pairs of 2S3P
The slave board for the switch has also a green and red LED
The shelf is 2mm thick and the 1.5mm thick copper MCPCB does a good job spreading the heat, on Turbo the head gets hot quick, so the thermal path is well if the heat paste is applied better than in my sample
The MCPCB is s true copper DTP, the back of it is gold plated
The MCPCBs back is perfectly flat
The light should be waterproof, but I wish the heads o-ring would be pushed a little harder
The lens is AR coated glass
I would like to see the TIR attached to the lens with optical glue to get more OTF lumens
Tube and Tail
The tail cap is solid and fully anodized there is no battery connection
the tube inner diameter is 45mm even my double heat shrink tube unprotected batteries have some play
The tube threads are triangular cut on both sides, the tube has 2 o-rings and both sides is lubed for water tightness, the amount of lubricant is good
square cut would be nicer, but all Astrolux lights have triangular with a flat top
Driver and Battery
The light has no visible PWM in any mode, even falling water drops show nothing
The light has a lot mass to absorb heat, in turbo mode on a high drain cells it gets hot quickly, in High the temperature takes quite some time to get hot
The light seems not to have a temperature protection which is not fast,
the head heats up above 75°C then I shut down the light a minute, when I switched it on again it stabilized at 70°C
as I got no manual I cant check if its specified there
The 2S/2P battery carrier is build rock solid and can be inserted both ways
The battery carrier can be used in both directions, but it’s better to put the side where the battery positive and negative is separated towards the driver to avoid the current flowing through the brass rods connecting both sides
The light is build for unprotected batteries, protected or button top unprotected won’t fit, the ones I have with a 2mm brass button fit barely
On the left the one with the brass button and on the right a flat top battery
the springs get fully compressed with an unprotected brass button cell, so their resistance is very low
The mode spacing is OK, the moonlight has about 3-5 lumens, the high could be a little less
Current measurement with 4 Samsung 18650-30Q fully charged and rested at 4.15V
The carrier is modified to measure the current with a 0.5mm² wire, so the measurement might not as precise as in the assembled light
Tail current for modes
Moon 0.125W 8.3V and 15mA
This is not really accurate with the clampmeter, I guess the real current is lower
Low 6.4W 8.25V and 0.78A
High 57.4W 8V and 7.17A
Turbo 120W 7.66V and 15.67A
At 3.4V per cell the light does switch the indicator LED in the side switch to red to show low battery warning
At 2.9V the indicator LED blinks to show critical battery level
The light shuts down at 2.7V per cell, for my liking too low for a 2S light if the batteries might be not perfectly matched
Below that voltage it shuts down and you can’t turn on the light again
The light pulls in the breathing mode 0.5-0.7mA from the battery
the breathing mode stops at 2.7V per cell to prevent over discharge
When the light is locked out with side switch it pulls about 39uA
Modding:
First thing was to bypass the copper alloy Spring on the driver
I sanded MCPCB to remove the solder residue and get a polished surface
Added a wire to the LED- to shelf, I could have increased the positive gauge, but I didn’t
You can also see that I cut threads in the TIR holes to screw down the MCPCB to spread the paste better, the 3 screws on the outer ring are nice but in the middle of the MCPCB they would be more effective
Beam shots
about 2m from Light to ceiling
Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219C
Astrolux S42 Nichia 219C
Astrolux K01 XPL-HD 3D
Nitecore P12 XML U3-3D NW
User Interface
The light has 4 modes including moonlight
Too bad my sample misses the manual, but so far I got it sorted out
Connect battery with light it enters breathing mode.
From breathing mode
- 0.5s long press locks out the light
- short press to turn on the light last mode memory
- double press enters strobe
While in strobe any short press advances to SOS, then beacon, another short press turns the light off
In any mode a 0.5s press turns the light off
I like the user interface of the UT01 more than the one here, but it’s better than the last Astrolux S42 light.
Conclusion
Positive:
- mechanical very good production and engineering
- very solid head, DTP MCPCB screwed on the 2mm shelf
- Nichia LEDs has a nice neutral white with great color rendering
- AR coated glass lens
- good uniform beam, some throw by the shear amount of light on turbo
- nice low moonlight
- proper LVP and low battery warnings
- low resistance copper alloy springs
Neutral:
- triangular cut threads, square cut would be nicer
- 18650 battery carrier fits only unprotected flat top batteries
- the UI is a lot better than on the S42, but still not like many flashaholics want it, one like Utorchs UT-01 would have been nice
- mode spacing is not optimal and a light with this amount of lumens need an option to switch to more modes
- slow temperature protection, the head gets >75°C before the driver knows its hot, then the output drops a lot and the light cools down
Negative:
- no reverse polarity protection, you get a big notice in the light to avoid wrong polarity
- Quality management is not good: missing manual and solder spot below the MCPCB and not good applied heat paste
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
The light is a pre production sample, so there might be improvements for the final light
Update:
I did today a measurement of the beam intensity of this light
measured @5m 2080 Lux cold start
so I get 52000 Lux @1m for the Nichia pre production light
this is just the Luxmeter set to show save max.
starting the light, 3 clicks to highest mode
then move the light a bit to get its peak output
The light seems to have a slow temperature protection, when it is cold it takes about 2 minutes to reach the level
the temperature sensor seems to be on the driver, which is not good on the MCPCB would be more precise and quicker regulation
as I got no manual I cant check if its specified there
I will do a timelapse to show how the light does thermal regulation
All pictures with F1/2.8 ISO800 and 0.3s
control shot distance 50m
Klarus XT12GTS modded with HI E4-3C 1800 lumens
Nitecore P12 U3-3D @3A
Astrolus MF-01 low
Astrolus MF-01 high
Astrolus MF-01 Turbo

Astrolus S42 modded to about 18A cold start

control shot

Astrolus MF-01 turbo

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
nice teardown !
but i am very interested in the UI and output...
PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:
THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!
Lexel, did you get a chance to use it outside? Thoughts?
(Edit; this post was originally made before any outdoor shots were posted, lol)
No reverse polarity protection, no space for protected cells… This might be a deal breaker… Thanks for the review Lexel!
Pretty cool light. So are the LEDs wired 2s9p?
Too bad cool white XPG2 is not an option. I would dedome them and put in a FET driver and that would be a nice beam.
All pictures with F1/2.8 ISO800 and 0.3s
control shot
Astrolus MF-01 Turbo

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
What a stupid craze to attach that tape right in the box!
Please do not use tape directly on the box
Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)
the LEDs are wired in 3 pairs of 2S3P
the box is also coated with plastic the tape gets off without any residue or damage
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Kids in the building traumatised thinking aliens are going to abduct them.
But these was not coated
Sorry about this off topic but I am too pissed because all the boxes that come from BG come that tape stuck
Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)
12000lm is rated for the XP-G3…I wonder what the actual output is for the Nichia 219C.
I did a 20x timelapse for the thermal stepdown
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Looks like a good product so far, i am torn between this and Haikelite MT03.
Reviews: Astrolux MF01s, Haikelite SC26, Fitorch P30R, Nitecore TINI, Amutorch JM70, Utorch S1 Mini, Nitecore TIP, Haikelite MT09R, XTAR OVer 4 Slim Charger, Vollsion MR12-D, Nitecore HC33, Nitecore EC23. Lumintop SD Mini II XPL, BLF Q8, Astrolux MF-01 Nichia, Convoy C8 Clear, Convoy S2+ Desert Tan, Nitecore Concept 1, Emisar D4, Haikelite MT01. Nitecore Tip 2017, Imalent DN70, Haikelite MT07 Buffalo, Haikelite SC01, Haikelite MT02, Haikelite MT03
Nice light, it may even give the meteor a run for its money. Many details can be improved, such as having the MCPCB wire a bit further away from the edge to avoid shorting, and better application of thermal paste (Although for this size it should not matter much, the light will heat up quickly anyways).
USB power meter/tester thread
Swi from Banggood told me this morning this is a pre production sample Banggood received from the company producing them
none of the regular lights will go in production till the improvements and changes are clear
they seem to have reacted after the S42 issues to put more efford to improve the lights handing out pre production samples for testing, rather than go too early in production and find out later which issues the lights have when the first reviews show issues
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
the switch ‘s light is not…perfect for me, it’s kind of unbalance
Forgot my pen
Nice review!
thanks
I find thesetemps a major problem.
They did build in thermal step down but it seems to protect the hardware and not the user, this is literally burning hot, unscceptable imho for a production light, for a modded hotrod it is ok but for something one buys stock a no go.
It is done when it is done

How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I’m pleasantly surprised, it seems like they did the details quite right. And I’m curious about the output too, the 12.000 lumen is for XP-G3 of course, the high CRI Nichia version is not specified but will be more like 9000. I like the looks too. And the beam is nice.
Still the first thing I do with any Astrolux light is take it fully apart and check, check, check!
link to djozz tests
Only recommended for the experts... Else risk catastrophic result...
That’s great to hear. I’m glad they’re taking the extra steps to make sure everything is right from the start. I really like the looks of this light and will end up getting one as long as there’s no known issues.
We have identified several issues back in June. Several parts will undergo redesign, and i am awaiting for their test results.
That’s very cool to work with the manufacturer for redesign and the best for Chinese products to get feedback for improvements…
I’m amused the way Chinese people adapt their way of thinking
Anyway can’t wait for this flashlight
Groupbuy Groupbuy…
Thanks for the review Lexel. Looks like a nice light once the kinks are worked out.
Quick learners. Definitely a good sign for Astrolux/Banggood.
@Lexel
Please tell Banggood their lamps would gain a lot if they use atiny chips or tell how to flash each light.
Some Astrolux lights could be brilliant lights with the right software. They should enable the flashaholics to fix their errors easy.
2S battery config with buck driver feeding 2S emitters? 2S li-ion operative voltage window (8.x down to 5.4V in this case) overlaps with 2S emitters driving voltage, which means you lose regulation early at some point. Stupid decision imho.
Dealing with certain limitations can be understandable with cheap flashlights in the name of cost. This is not the case.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Viruses DON'T cause diseases, they rather are a consequence of them. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for more information.
Good for ANSI lumen rating, and good for ANSI runtime rating. So yeah, I want to know what output you get at 4.2V, 3.8V and let’s say 3.5V.
P.S. It’s not just 2S emitters, but those 2S are in 9P, so you have a lot more voltage sag.
hIKARInoob, I clearly see the torch uses a 2S2P high drain battery feeding 3 buck engines, each one driving a 2S3P emitter stack. The limitation I am referring to is the same you can find on any other 2S torch driving 2S emitters (like a Convoy L6): once the battery voltage drops below Vf + driver overhead, you lose regulation. This means turbo won't fully work once the first low battery warning has appeared, or thereabouts (a 30Q loaded with 5A outputs below 3.4V once you're in the 2 to 2.8Ah of its discharge capacity curve; also bear in mind carrier and other contact losses).
To me, regulation matters. ¿2S2P battery? Go fully regulated buck with a beefier engine and 1S18P emitter stack. Also, some efficient boost engines available now: 1S4P battery feeding powerful boost engine driving 2S9P emitter stack. For examples, of course.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
Viruses DON'T cause diseases, they rather are a consequence of them. Read the book “Béchamp or Pasteur” by Ethel Hume for more information.
^^^
I think we’re on the same page here. I think I fully understand the limitation you are referring to, and I’m definitely not a fan of “you only get that output with fresh 4.2V cells” either.
LPW:
800, <100,<100, <100
First obviously is mistake. But if the other are right that is shame. Newest led and constant current driver and lpw < 100! WTF?!
To get 5100lm from 18 xpg3 s5 it needs about 30W not almost 60.
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