TK's Emisar D4 review

5353 posts / 0 new
Last post
Wennn
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 02/09/2017 - 04:39
Posts: 88
Location: Singapore

Thinking of getting one of these as a EDC + showoff light, was wondering which emitter would appear the brightest on a fully charged Aspire 18350?

I personally prefer the 6500k to 5000k tint, but at $18 more, if the Nichias are brighter (due to a lower VF and higher sag of the 18350s), that might be enough to sway me towards the 5k tint.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10627
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

The XP-L HI should appear brightest in almost any circumstances. It has significantly higher lux than any of the other flavors.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10627
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

DB Custom wrote:
I’ve always dreamed of being a superhero, nows my chance to become…


The Green Lantern!

(yeah, ok, so y’all know which color I got. Maybe I’ll put a 2,000 lumen green SBT-70 in it…. Big Smile )

FWIW, I had nothing to do with this light being green. I do appreciate it though. Smile

Is BuWave still around? He was always into the Green Lantern…

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 2 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17481
Location: Amsterdam

Since his Fasttech thread was parallelled he was here less and less.

tocirahl
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 13:00
Posts: 110
Location: Austin, TX

Is there any way for me to decrease the current drawn by the light when the FET is engaged? I’d like to maybe limit the light to 1500 lumens on turbo and increase the efficiency of the medium modes.

fischju
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 07/21/2017 - 21:24
Posts: 13

If you carry this light in the high pepper configurations, LOCK IT OUT. A friend of mine I bought one for lit his pocket on fire yesterday. Burned a hole through it. He’s not injured, just an idiot for leaving the memory on turbo and not using the pocket clip or lockout.

RMM
RMM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 2 days ago
Joined: 07/23/2013 - 13:47
Posts: 4006
Location: USA

ledalex wrote:
Yeah, I think something else is going on. Unscrewing the lens and moving the board with the leds results in some weird stuff going on. Maybe the driver is bad. I haven't heard back from Mountain yet. Hopefully they respond. You would think he'd check them before sending them out. Hank, I don't see why it would matter how good of a conductor that wire is. If the switch is working, it's allowing enough current through.

We check all of the lights we sell; individually, not one out a batch.  With something like this, however, it is possible that the light worked when we had it, but then over time the wire pinched more and started to give the fault.  

We did respond with a return shipping label and offer to fix/replace the light.  

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

maukka
maukka's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 04:15
Posts: 2175
Location: Finland

My output numbers for the 219c version. Taken at a couple of seconds, not absolute max at turn on.

Aspire 18350: 2670 lm (1455 lm at 30 sec)
VTC6: 3100 lm (445 lm at 30 sec)
18650GA: 2760 lm (830 lm at 30 sec)

joechina
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 17 hours ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1454
Location: Germany

fischju wrote:
If you carry this light in the high pepper configurations, LOCK IT OUT. A friend of mine I bought one for lit his pocket on fire yesterday. Burned a hole through it. He’s not injured, just an idiot for leaving the memory on turbo and not using the pocket clip or lockout.

Pictures please! Evil
joechina
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 17 hours ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1454
Location: Germany

Green Lantern?

I thought the nickname is nutburner.

Has somebody laid corn on the lens? Will it pop?

RollerBoySE
RollerBoySE's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 12/13/2014 - 11:23
Posts: 1041
Location: Sweden

maukka wrote:
My output numbers for the 219c version. Taken at a couple of seconds, not absolute max at turn on.

Aspire 18350: 2670 lm (1455 lm at 30 sec)
VTC6: 3100 lm (445 lm at 30 sec)
18650GA: 2760 lm (830 lm at 30 sec)

Impressive, considering the size.

Have you had time to check the CRI value?

maukka
maukka's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 04:15
Posts: 2175
Location: Finland

Nothing surprising in CRI.

Tint (a bit on the green side, but nothing distracting) stays consistent on the lower modes due to PWM.

Turbo at 5 seconds

Between 7135 100% and turbo

7135 100%

A bit above moon

RollerBoySE
RollerBoySE's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 12/13/2014 - 11:23
Posts: 1041
Location: Sweden

Thanks for the measurements maukka!

Not too bad, but obviously R9080 spec. would have been even nicer.

(Yes, I would gladly pay extra for it and don’t mind losing a few lumens.)

patmurris
patmurris's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 12/22/2014 - 15:54
Posts: 1677
Location: Nice, France

Thanks maukka, i’m expecting the exact same light.

I’m always impressed with your measurements and graphics… Is there a thread where you explain how you achieve them? – what equipment and software?

tocirahl
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 13:00
Posts: 110
Location: Austin, TX

Made some interesting graphs for FET+1 efficiency (based on numbers from the Emisar D4 w/ 219C D240 LEDs). Thought you guys might enjoy them. All these are based on calculations and not empirical data, so please take everything with a grain of salt, but this should give you a rough idea of how the light behaves and how the efficiency differs between an 18350 (with a lower max output) and an 18650 cell.

Some interesting (albeit, expected) results. Efficiency is constant in the lower modes because it’s just PWM on the 7135. Efficiency is greater on the 18350 light since it draws less current when using the FET. This applies to any given brightness. What this means is that using a battery with less current handling capabilities will result in more efficient medium modes (as long as the battery is still able to handle turbo).

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4179
Location: California

maukka wrote:
My output numbers for the 219c version. Taken at a couple of seconds, not absolute max at turn on.

Aspire 18350: 2670 lm (1455 lm at 30 sec)
VTC6: 3100 lm (445 lm at 30 sec)
18650GA: 2760 lm (830 lm at 30 sec)

Nice results.

Notice how the Aspire had much greater output after 30 seconds. You can see how the temp sensor circuit kicked in a lot quicker on the 18650 cells to reduce output and might have overdone it.

I don’t think the D4 has it, but one nice feature might be to have the temp sensor step the light back up in output once temp goes down.

RMM
RMM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 2 days ago
Joined: 07/23/2013 - 13:47
Posts: 4006
Location: USA

The D4 V2 UI does step the power back up after the temperature goes down.  

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

maukka
maukka's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 04:15
Posts: 2175
Location: Finland

The Aspire was a clear winner between three 18350s. I also tested a purple Efest 700mAh at 2280 lumens and a grey Enercig 700mAh at 2440 lumens.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4179
Location: California

RMM wrote:

The D4 V2 UI does step the power back up after the temperature goes down.  


Good to know.
Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4179
Location: California

maukka wrote:
The Aspire was a clear winner between three 18350s. I also tested a purple Efest 700mAh at 2280 lumens and a grey Enercig 700mAh at 2440 lumens.
I’m very impressed with the Aspire 18350. Blows away the Efest purple in performance and capacity. Even seems to beat the Efest 18500 1000 mAh.

It makes 18500s feel a bit like a 5th wheel. You get less capacity on the best 18500 than you do with Aspire 18350 now while carrying a bigger battery and light.

However, despite this I have been EDC’ing the D4 with Efest 18500. Mainly because the 18500 battery tube is long enough for me to put Talon Grip tape on the battery tube. The light feels much better in the hand with it than the bare aluminum of the 18350 tube.

TheBo
TheBo's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 01/07/2015 - 14:52
Posts: 612
Location: OBLIVION, ITALY

maukka wrote:
My output numbers for the 219c version. Taken at a couple of seconds, not absolute max at turn on. Aspire 18350: 2670 lm (1455 lm at 30 sec) VTC6: 3100 lm (445 lm at 30 sec) 18650GA: 2760 lm (830 lm at 30 sec)

 

Any ideas about the numbers being so different from the declared ones? I M also curious of the xp-g2 and xp-l hi values at this time. I've ordered a nichia version in the end hoping it will be overall (lumen wise) on par with my dtt40 (imalent numbers are always... Meh) so it should have been possible with those numbers if legit

Rufusbduck wrote:
Getting discouraged is normal but doesn't finish the job.
tocirahl
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 13:00
Posts: 110
Location: Austin, TX
TheBo wrote:

 


Any ideas about the numbers being so different from the declared ones? I M also curious of the xp-g2 and xp-l hi values at this time. I’ve ordered a nichia version in the end hoping it will be overall (lumen wise) on par with my dtt40 (imalent numbers are always… Meh) so it should have been possible with those numbers if legit

Maukka specifies that the numbers are not turn-on maximum numbers. The output sags very, very quickly.

TheBo
TheBo's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 01/07/2015 - 14:52
Posts: 612
Location: OBLIVION, ITALY

Yeah should be very very very quickly...  like 300lm/sec

Rufusbduck wrote:
Getting discouraged is normal but doesn't finish the job.
Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4179
Location: California

Emisar D4 in black and grey with Talon Grip tape installed on the 18650 battery tube:

This tape is great. Available on Amazon. Easy to install. Thin but durable. Sticks great. Turns a slippery light into a super-grippy one.

Hikelite
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 16:18
Posts: 3860
Location: RO
TheBo wrote:

maukka wrote:
My output numbers for the 219c version. Taken at a couple of seconds, not absolute max at turn on. Aspire 18350: 2670 lm (1455 lm at 30 sec) VTC6: 3100 lm (445 lm at 30 sec) 18650GA: 2760 lm (830 lm at 30 sec)

 


Any ideas about the numbers being so different from the declared ones? I M also curious of the xp-g2 and xp-l hi values at this time. I’ve ordered a nichia version in the end hoping it will be overall (lumen wise) on par with my dtt40 (imalent numbers are always… Meh) so it should have been possible with those numbers if legit

Have you see the numbers in this review, page 1 in this thread?

TheBo
TheBo's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 01/07/2015 - 14:52
Posts: 612
Location: OBLIVION, ITALY

Yes those were the number I was referring to. I mean. It's the delta from what maukka has reported and what hank has stated. 

Rufusbduck wrote:
Getting discouraged is normal but doesn't finish the job.
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10627
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
TheBo wrote:
Any ideas about the numbers being so different from the declared ones?

ANSI lumens vs flashlight lumens, mostly.

Most flashlight companies use a “lumen” value which is somewhat different than the ANSI standard lumen. I’m not sure why, but it happened and it kinda got stuck that way. Maukka uses something pretty close to the official standard, and I’ve been using something pretty close to the flashlight industry’s unit.

This difference also shows up in Zebralight lumens vs EagleTac lumens. EagleTac’s numbers are lower for the same actual brightness. It seems like most companies and most of BLF and CPF are using Zebralight’s scale though, or something very close to it.

The general rule is that published lumen numbers are only comparable to other numbers published by the same person or same company. Measurements by different people use different units, because no two are calibrated quite the same. This does improve somewhat when multiple people use meters created and calibrated by a single person, which has happened occasionally, but for the most part, different people’s numbers aren’t comparable.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10627
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
RMM wrote:
We check all of the lights we sell; individually, not one out a batch.

Thanks! You’re even more meticulous than I thought. Smile

(also, I updated my earlier post speculating that you might check a few samples instead of every last piece)

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10627
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
fischju wrote:
LOCK IT OUT. A friend of mine I bought one for lit his pocket on fire yesterday. Burned a hole through it. He’s not injured, just an idiot for leaving the memory on turbo and not using the pocket clip or lockout.

I’m not surprised. This thing uses twice as much power as my soldering iron. Starting fires is not a difficult task for it.

Basically the entire top half of the ramp is “turbo”, as in “burst mode only”. There are reasons why it steps down quickly and doesn’t have a way to completely disable thermal regulation. Big Smile

(if used inside an insulated space like a pocket, though, even a few seconds can be long enough to cause trouble… and it has no way to sense when that’s happening)

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 31 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4179
Location: California

Incidentally, I tried checking the driver in one of my D4s.

Unlike the prototype reviewed in this thread my driver was NOT glued in. It was just press-fit. I was able to push it out using the pointy end of a flat toothpick inserted around the LED wires. This means getting to the driver to reflash it should be easy.

Pages