TK's Emisar D4 review

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Anthon
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I’d buy asap if hank released a new tailcap with removable magnet and lanyard hole

hIKARInoob
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I’m not convinced the D7 is a flooder. The DQG has seven emitters from a single 26650, so from a thicker triple 18650 you have significantly more space in the head. I can’t imagine the individual optics just placed further apart.
It would be more interesting to have larger reflectors, so probably metal reflectors instead of optics as losses would be high with the latter? With these larger reflectors, the light would move away from the typical flooder beam we’ve seen from the M43 and D7, and have a much higher lux/lumen ratio. So in terms of beam profile, it would be something between a flooder and a thrower, something comparable to an L6 or Q8?
A pure flooder would make the D7, although perfectly executed no doubt, just “another flooder” in a slightly different form factor. But this light could be a game changer… Just my thought I had for a while… Party

RollerBoySE
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I really would like to see the introduction of a shortcut to maximum sustainable level in the next release of firmware. Maybe even make it a selflearning function, based upon the max temp setting and real use of the flashlight (with the particular LED:s and cell).

I love my D4:s and will purchase the D1 and the D7 when available.
Lanyard hole and optional real high CRI versions would make my day.

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hIKARInoob wrote:
I’m not convinced the D7 is a flooder. The DQG has seven emitters from a single 26650, so from a thicker triple 18650 you have significantly more space in the head. I can’t imagine the individual optics just placed further apart.
It would be more interesting to have larger reflectors, so probably metal reflectors instead of optics as losses would be high with the latter? With these larger reflectors, the light would move away from the typical flooder beam we’ve seen from the M43 and D7, and have a much higher lux/lumen ratio. So in terms of beam profile, it would be something between a flooder and a thrower, something comparable to an L6 or Q8?
A pure flooder would make the D7, although perfectly executed no doubt, just “another flooder” in a slightly different form factor. But this light could be a game changer… Just my thought I had for a while… Party

DQG Tiny 26650 3th has 33 mm head diameter. This is enough for a TIR with individual lenses of a size similar to Carclo 10 mm ones, like in D4. I don’t know what the lens size actually is there or what lens is it. I tried to find the manufacturer, without success.
D7 body size is going to be like 42-43 mm in diameter. With a somewhat larger head, it’s going to fit a TIR with 16 mm cups. This is enough for 10 cd/lm with a good lens. I guess with a perfect lens this could be beaten somewhat. Use of a floodier lens wouldn’t surprise me either. Somewhat larger head (and thus lens) is possible too. Anyway, I don’t view D7 as anything but a flooder, though I do expect it to be somewhat throwier than D4.
ADDED:
Forgot to mention, throw figures above assume XP-L HI.
spinynorman
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Always leave them wanting more…

hIKARInoob
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Thanks for the figures Agro. With increasing reflector and head size, so does the lux/lumen ratio. I’m more interested in lux value of the D7 than amount of lumens.

Agro
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Just wanted to add: Q8 is a little under 10 cd/lm. So D7 may actually be slightly throwier and in general is likely to be in the same ballpark (as long as you pick it with XP-L HI).

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Thrunite Mini TN30 (2016) has 7.1 lux/lumen and only 3660 lumens, and I find this light “pretty throwy” for a soda can light. With higher lux/lumen value, you need less lumens for a satisfying experience… Cool

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i think the D4 should have been using D1 head to sink more heat and D1 should be using a smaller D4 head, D1 with D4 head and XPL Hi should give enough throw i think.

Tixx
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Nite Shadow wrote:
Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

I’ve had every one of them and here is my list from best to worst according to my eyes and I’ve had multiples of them, not just one of each:

1) XP-G2 4000k
2) XP-G2 5000k
3) XP-L 5000k
4) Nichia 219c 5000k

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I got my Emisar D4 XP-G a few days ago and I am really impressed with this little powerhouse flashlight! It lights up my entire backyard with perfect cool white light. This is my first light with ramping. Very cool! I love this light! The only drawback is it gets pretty hot. I’m gonna buy a few for gifts that will really impress the recipients. Good job on the design and build of this impressive light! Thumbs Up

Best regards,

Matthew

 

 

 

 

 

battery
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Hank Wang wrote:
leestrong wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
mean like this?

A wild Hank Wang appears outside the great firewall ! Big Smile
Is that D7?
And are the tubes of those lights interchangable?
Yes, D1 and D4 tubes are interchangable, meaning D1 can also use the 18350 tube to become a tiny thrower.
D1 around 40Kcd, 1*XP-L HI, ultra small body, slightly bigger than D4 as it can be seen above, true all arounder for size and throw
D4 around 120Kcd,1*XP-L HI, excellent throw, small body

D7 is using 7*LED and 3*18650

Same UI on all D series from Emisar

Too late to re-design a slightly more recessed button?

battery
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Tixx wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

I’ve had every one of them and here is my list from best to worst according to my eyes and I’ve had multiples of them, not just one of each:

1) XP-G2 4000k
2) XP-G2 5000k
3) XP-L 5000k
4) Nichia 219c 5000k

I’m surprised you would put a 4000K Cree as best looking pure white. Almost every Cree I have seen below 4500 is noticeably yellow.

Geuzzz
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Does any of you guys know if the mcpcb below is a direct replacement for the D4 board? The description says it’s 2mm thick.

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-cree-xpg2-s4-5d2-p-919.html

Tixx
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battery wrote:
Tixx wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

I’ve had every one of them and here is my list from best to worst according to my eyes and I’ve had multiples of them, not just one of each:

1) XP-G2 4000k
2) XP-G2 5000k
3) XP-L 5000k
4) Nichia 219c 5000k

I’m surprised you would put a 4000K Cree as best looking pure white. Almost every Cree I have seen below 4500 is noticeably yellow.

Do you have all 4 of these to compare? He also mentioned rosy was fine. The XP-G2 4000k meets that.

khas
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Geuzzz wrote:
Does any of you guys know if the mcpcb below is a direct replacement for the D4 board? The description says it’s 2mm thick.

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-cree-xpg2-s4-5d2-p-919.html

It’s the same MCPCB , I think he advertised the MCPBS’s before the D4. I have one running a quad Nichia :


D4 Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 (left) X5 Nichia 219C 5000K (right)

DB Custom
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Geuzzz, that looks like the same Noctigon board that came in my D4. I’ve replaced it with Richards quad board and Nichia 319AT emitters.

Geuzzz
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Thanks guys! Ordered.

winspiration
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Tixx wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

I’ve had every one of them and here is my list from best to worst according to my eyes and I’ve had multiples of them, not just one of each:

1) XP-G2 4000k
2) XP-G2 5000k
3) XP-L 5000k
4) Nichia 219c 5000k

How about the other xp-g2 and xp-l tint? I’m curious as to how you would rank them.

Tixx
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winspiration wrote:
Tixx wrote:
Nite Shadow wrote:
Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

I’ve had every one of them and here is my list from best to worst according to my eyes and I’ve had multiples of them, not just one of each:

1) XP-G2 4000k
2) XP-G2 5000k
3) XP-L 5000k
4) Nichia 219c 5000k

How about the other xp-g2 and xp-l tint? I’m curious as to how you would rank them.

I don’t do tints above 5000k (unless extreme circumstances and a modification is planned). So I only experienced those 4.

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I received the xp-g2 5d2 4000k and a Nichia 219c 5000k. I much prefer the xp-g2 5d2 over the 219c. The 219c gets hotter and steps down way faster and bigger steps than the xp-g2. The small gain in brightness isn’t worth the added heat in my opinion. The tint of the xp-g2 isn’t pure white but it is below the black body line with a slight rosy hue which I love, especially with night adjusted eyes. I liked the 5d2 tint so much I ordered 3 more quad boards. One to swap out the 219c’s in my green emisar and two more to play with in other lights.

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Just got my xpg2 3d today. Love this little green hulk.

Found I had to set the temperature higher on mine as I like to hover between 600 to 1000 lumens and thermal management was dropping me below 600 lumens after just a short time of use.

Now with it adjusted I am very happy with this purchase.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

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Does anyone know if the offset optic fits this light without any modification.

If so could you please attach a link so I know what optic to purchase.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

Firelight2
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noboneshotdog wrote:
Does anyone know if the offset optic fits this light without any modification.

If so could you please attach a link so I know what optic to purchase.


Do you mean the offset star? That’s a replacement star for the LEDs to sit on where each LED is rotated at a different angle so the corona is much more even and not square.

The offset star replaces the stock star. They use the same optic.

You can buy the offset star at Mountain Electronics

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Firelight2 wrote:
noboneshotdog wrote:
Does anyone know if the offset optic fits this light without any modification.

If so could you please attach a link so I know what optic to purchase.


Do you mean the offset star? That’s a replacement star for the LEDs to sit on where each LED is rotated at a different angle so the corona is much more even and not square.

The offset star replaces the stock star. They use the same optic.

You can buy the offset star at Mountain Electronics

OK got you. Thanks for the direction. Is this the one?

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_64...

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

rubatone
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Is there a clip that works with this light? About to order two of them Smile
I want to be able to strap it to my hat with the 18350 tube. Also will the s4 3D be a good choice?

Firelight2
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noboneshotdog wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
noboneshotdog wrote:
Does anyone know if the offset optic fits this light without any modification.

If so could you please attach a link so I know what optic to purchase.


Do you mean the offset star? That’s a replacement star for the LEDs to sit on where each LED is rotated at a different angle so the corona is much more even and not square.

The offset star replaces the stock star. They use the same optic.

You can buy the offset star at Mountain Electronics

OK got you. Thanks for the direction. Is this the one?

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_64...

Yes, that’s the one. You’ll also need a soldering iron and basic soldering skills.
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Anodized D1 and D1S…. will be nice colours like green or only dark?

gregor
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Here you can find macro pictures of this FL:

http://imgur.com/a/2hZd5

Few examples:





You can find more pictures on above link.

Kind regards

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Cool pics gregor Smile

I like my D4 on the rocks…………….

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