Bump because bump thee. 

Thanks pro22000.

Looks good driver wise. It can take in 20700s/21700s, doesn't it? 

Dusty wrote:

… Cooling would be in the head, there is no correlation to the body. It's a fairly loose fit. 2 O rings are in control of the slide. Personally, I prefer a Thorfire BD04, or Convoy, with the smaller head. Much better machining. If you can buy these for $5 or less, they aren't a bad little light. Edit: I can take some pictures, but I only have a Cellphone at the moment.

Cooling in the  head? I'm confused, seen some slide zoomies and they all have a pill (with o-rings) which inserts in the head from above and rests in a head shelf, with the pill's threaded tail end and driver boot protruding downwards, where the body tube is screwed. So, emitter and driver heat is mostly transmitted to the body, as the head is o-ring isolated. 

I'm starting to believe the TA13 has poor heatsinking ability. 

Had seen the Convoy BD04 already and looks charming to me but, can it take a buck or boost 20+mm driver?

Thanks.

Thanks for the pictures, pro22000. It's design mostly matches what I described above, excepting the head-pill piece has inner threads and the body tube inserts screwing inside. The head-lens-bezel slips up and down over the o-rings. Should have decent cooling performance, and the driver looks quite good for the price. All in all, looks like a bargain!

I bet this makes an excellent XHP35 host with KD's H2-C boost driver.

SOLD!

Well, I have a couple ThorFire TA13s in the mail right now, together with two H2-Cs and two XHP35 HI C2 30Gs on DTP copper.

How hot does this flashlight gets stock? I need to determine if holding this lightstick in the hand while pumping more than 30W of combined power will be considered acceptable. 

Hello fellows,

One of my TA13s arrived home. Neat looking torch. The bezel, though, comes sealed in some way, it's unscrew resistant. How did you managed to unstick it? 

Cheers

Mmm, already read something about applying heat to the bezel, but how? Hairdryer/hot air? Maybe submerging the torch's head in a finger deep hot water? How about a finger deep white spirit?

Hope the lens doesn't take a hit from this… 

Cheers

Just sent a message to Thorfire asking what sort of stuff is in the threads and/or how to best unstick the thing without damage. I was to straight mod the torch and this is like a bad joke.

Heat the bezel with a gas burner flame Lexel? Are you serious? That would leave anodizing scars and the lens would more than probably end up ruined.

Cheers 

I'll see. I've yet to try anything. I think white spirit will no doubt soften/remove the stuff, so there's a good chance that it can do wonders, namely if you boil it a bit as it contains hidrocarbon chains with melting points near that temperature. 

As you can understand, I am to avoid damage to the lens, as getting new equivalent lenses can be a trouble.

Cheers

What's up fellows?

The white spirit bath did what it had to do and I was able to unscrew the bezel with ease.

Installed new emitter and driver, didn't raised the stock driver current, and I believe I'll leave it this way (1A/1.5A turbo). Measured ≈125°C peak emitter temperature in front of it with my infrared thermometer. The tint and colour appreciation are really great. Versus his good old UltraFire SK98, my friend Enrique kept complaining how Kermity his dedomed cool white XM-L2 looked. 

Bits off the o-ring behind the lens appeared here and there, that may have something to do with the spirit bath, don't you think?

Cheers

F1? I guess you mean the Zanflare but heck with Led Lenser!

It is advertised as “The jet fighter of pocket flashlights” in their european spanish webpage. LoL! 

Looks fuc@#$% cool I must admit!

Cheers

Of course, contrast is higher to the human eye, colour looks way nicer. Picture tint looks this way because photo white balance was set to “daylight”.

Cheers

Self-update from #99 in Jensen567's Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy).-

Peeked more in-depth in the TLF SF30A review & modding thread khas posted. My modded TA13s should be achieving ≈50Klux fully focused, considering ≈20W reach their XHP35 HI C2 30Gs.

Interesting the inner cylinder extension (≈5mm) mod proposal, I wonder who would be willing to craft such a piece for a reasonable cost (preferably in copper). It is a bit @#$% to see how the torch designers didn't realized this beforehand. 

Hello? My jeans are crotchless and here I am, willing to spend money on custom flashlight parts… 

I wonder how much actual output am I getting off this torch on turbo (1.5A), prolly just ≈950 lumens.

Cheers 

I have news my comrades, more than likely due to my initial white spirit head treatment the inner head cylinder o-rings became ruined.

I've disassembled the head and taken a couple pictures, as you can see. The o-rings were installed in the upper slots, and were being torn up bit by bit because of excessive friction (no oil or grease at all).

If some of you can provide me some accurate measurements of their size I should be grateful, I believe they're ∅27mm outer by 2mm thick (cross section), though this is not an actual measurement of them as you may guess. Slot diameter seems to be 23mm. 

Another comment. In the Sofirn SF30A Modding, Review, Zoomtaschenlampe thread Raff comments something about a longer inner cylinder part to achieve a closer to the lens emitter in flood. Well, after toying with the parts I've come to the conclusion we can more or less address this by filing the main headpiece a bit. The above up shot is taken with the inner cylinder inside the headpiece but all the way back without showing up the inner slots, resulting in 15mm of neck lenght. Can someone tell me what is the lenght of the neck in your torches fully zoomed in? If it is a maximum of 10mm, perfect. If not, the last slot will be seen if we file the main headpiece 5mm from below. 

Thanks my dears.

Cheers

Are you serious, khas? That's very nice but first make sure there's no one around you who could be grateful and handle it properly… 

I stand by what I said about filing the sliding headpiece. It will remove the anodization but that's 0K for me, it may even give it personality. khas, could you please zoom in your SF30A and measure its neck? It is only to determine if the lower groove would be seen atop the neck in full zoom once the headpiece is filed.

If you look at my lower picture above you can see the zooming headpiece to the left. Filing 5mm from it would remove the base “grommet”, that is, the first two rings plus the groove in between. The question is how much handwork would this require as I would be doing it with wet sandpaper. I should start with a very coarse grit, doesn't it? 

Cheers fellows 

P.S.: may be, Lightbringer. Dipped a switch into the stuff recently and I had to oil it afterwards.

A little update on these matters…

First wild guess set of o-rings (∅27×∅23×2mm OD×ID×CS) completely out of league. 

Khas donated me his SF30A and once I dissected it I ordered a set of equivalent o-rings for my TA13, (∅24×∅20×2mm OD×ID×CS).

The second set of o-rings has failed also. Problem? The TA13's head inner cylinder is different! In the SF30A slots 2 & 3 are slightly shallower than the one closer to the emitter, and are the ones used to seat the o-rings. In the TA13 inner cylinder slot 2 is deep, not shallow, and o-rings seat in slots 1 & 2. This is because the main headpiece, where the inner cylinder pistons, is also different inside. In both headpieces inner diameter is slightly less at the bottom, however in the SF30A there are three logitudinal grooves spaced at 120° which serve for its o-ring cylinder setup to move smoothly. The SF30A o-rings fit well over the TA13's cylinder last slot, but its headpiece doesn't have grooves. It is clear that it is designed to be used populating the deeper 1 & 2 slots with an unknown to me o-ring size. @#$%!

Luckily I have a friend for who I tuned another TA13. Hope I can convice him to come home and take a look at those damned o-rings.

Cheers

Finally modified the SF30A's head, trimmed it off ≈3.5mm with my rotary tool:

Finished head work. Not bad I'd say… 

The head now feels like it's missing something, and it wobbles a bit. 

Mmm…

The pre-mod shot was taken 3+ months ago. The modded one has been shot with the torch in medium mode, I guess this means the stock one was shot on high.

Cheers

TA13's head trimmed, went a bit further with this one and the o-ring leans out a little bit with the head fully extended. The TA13's head doesn't wobbles, but the uncovered last travel path is loose. 

Cheers