Wiring up the side switch is what really makes the light unique in my opinion.

Firstly, I used the stock Supfire switch. It comes with a red and blue led to indicate charging status. Unfortunately the switch is wired so the 2 leds and the switch share a common positive. This is backwards from my L6. I need 3 separate positive wires and a common ground wire.
Basically I decided to swap positive to negative to give me a common ground wire. Here is the Supfire switch layout.

Now here is what it NEEDS to be.

The switch is not polarity sensitive, but the leds are. I wanted to use the stock leds, but I had to remove them and turn them 180°. I destroyed the red one, but was able to save the blue. Then I added my own violet/pink led. I tied the 2 positive led wires together and ran them through an external 20k ohm resistor and then attached that to the power indicator pad on the driver. I’ve found that smd resistors mounted vertically are very fragile and always want to break in two.

I also filed some flat sides into the switch pcb so I could wire it to the driver outside the light, then slip the switch back through the mounting hole. No way you want to solder and unsolder 4 tiny wires every time you want to pull the driver out.

Before

After

I mounted the resistor a new way so that it will stay out of the way when installing the driver and not strain the wires. So far it works well.

Then I had to carefully run the common negative wire for all 3 pieces to the switch negative pad. Then the switch positive wire to the switch positive pad. If just a switch were installed polarity would not matter, but it’s important here to not fry the driver.

It all works! When power is applied to the driver the switch lights come on and stay on until the rear switch is turned off. I could have used the indicator power pad, but then it gets complicated as you can program the indicator light to be on or off, etc… I wanted it simple and to always be on when the rear switch is on.

Reserved for when I get around to adding more mass to the pill and changing out the reflector to an OP one. Currently I’m using the stock reflector which has a big dark hole in the hotspot. I mean it’s real noticable. Very ugly. So I need to swap to a different reflector, maybe a textured one or maybe add some DC Fix to smooth it out.

everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

Do any optics fit?

The pill is aluminum.

At most it will be on turbo 15 or 20 seconds so I just need mass to control the star temperature.

torchmanSp1111 wrote:

Interested

BTW, I have videos of it in my Sig. I used it to do the Narsil videos.

Just an update, I swapped out the SMO reflector that came with the light to a cut down C8 OP reflector. It really helps to smooth the beam and fill in the donut hole you get with the xhp70.

WaylonJennings wrote:

JasonWW wrote:

BTW, I have videos of it in my Sig. I used it to do the Narsil videos.

Just an update, I swapped out the SMO reflector that came with the light to a cut down C8 OP reflector. It really helps to smooth the beam and fill in the donut hole you get with the xhp70.

Have you measured lumen and lux in the light? Please post a beam shot if you can.

I don’t really care about lux as this is not a thrower. It’s got a nicer hotspot with the OP reflector compared to the SMO. It’s a little dark in the center, but not too noticable. It lights up a big area. Great for walking at night.

I’ll try and get some beam shots tonight.

Here are some beam shots I just took.

Medium brightness on ground to show beam pattern.

Here is a baseline shot followed by turbo.

I did not have much distance from my backyard so here are some nearby trees.

Lexel has informed me that he will be coming out with a boost driver that can run NarsilM in about a month (big time delayed). It should do 2.5-3 amp at 12v and 5-6 amp at 6v.

I plan to build another one of these lights using the xhp70.2 and stock smo reflector.

If Lexel is also using NarsilM v1.2 by then, I hope to set the ramping max to about 2.5A and a double click to 5A max. This should be ideal for my needs.

I did a little update by swapping the xhp70 out for a xhp70.2 (P2 1A)

The result is a nice output with no donut hole – like the xhp70 had. I kept the OP reflector to try and better blend the yellowish corona.

Output had a noticeable increase (500 lumen). I keep the rear spring unbypassed to limit current. I did some before and after tail cap amp draws with a UNI-T UT210E clamp meter and my TA Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka’s light. TO means at turn on. It starts to settle at about 10 seconds. I don’t want to do 30 second measurements as it gets hot and runs the battery down quicker.

The amp draws are at the tail cap (eliminating rear spring resistance) and it pulls some big amps (8.8A) for a pair of 26350 cells. This also gives the highest lumen output of 4,100 lumen!.

Installing the tail cap is how I normally use it, obviously, so this reduces the amp draw and output by 800 lumens, but helps the batteries last longer and keeps the heat down.

DoubleU wrote:

Hey Jason, where did you get your driver? Did you buy the board from oshpark and populate the components yourself?