Anyone else received their HT35? Impressive light but I’ve got annoying beam rings I’d like to get rid of if possible. The rings are most pronounced when the light is zoomed to throw and get absorbed by the outer diameter of the spot when zoomed to flood. The rings don’t show on a target any distance away, rather they show up on the ground ~10 ft downrange. Will blacking something inside the head take care of this? Thanks.
if i remember correctly, there is a ‘reflector’ type thing in the HT35? Remove that and see if the rings are reduced. Alternatively, paint it black or cover it with black, electrical tape. My light is still on the way. 
I don’t see any reflector in there. The ‘shelf’ the lens sits on is semi gloss black. I might try flattening that. Maybe the corner of the lens itself. Don’t know.
the best is to get all possible black inside the head
also the lens should be black on the not used part and outer diameter
Great photos Lexel. The HT35 is similar to the B158 internally so I’ll go that route and see what happens.
Thanks Lexel. A picture from this post by pok confused me (duhhh… since I don’t own any asphericals) Haikelite HT35 great deal (NOT 49.99) - #39 by Pok What I thought looked like a reflector may be the sides of the aspherical you blacked out above. :+1:
Great pics anf info Lexel!
Clever what you did to the lens!
Blacked the shelf and edge of the lens. No joy. Oh well, still a nice light. I have a photo that shows the effect but no way to post it right now.
I received my Haikelite HT35 yesterday and its beam did Saturn rings!
These beam rings may come from inner zooming threads under the lens.They are most visible when zoomed to throw.
At least those caught my eye when I opened it and zoomed without the top and lens.
Seemed to happen only with the lens in place.No rings without the lens.
Does anyone have shots compared to b158 ?
My HT35 arrived Dead. Currently “troubleshooting” with Gearbest. It flickers and I put some backwards pressure basically pulling out on the switch cap while tightening it and I can hear the electricity lightly sparking against the switch spring. I think the switch is defective. You guys thoughts???
Did you try tightening the driver retaining ring? What about removing it and checking the switch directly? Do the cells have nipples or raised front ends? Th Liitokala 50A cells I have do not work unless i put a spacer (magnet) in between the cells.
Hello and thanks for the response. I’ve been focusing on the tail switch. I have tried a variety of cells 26650, 30Q’s, basic 18650 all with nipples or magnets to make connection. I will check the driver rimg now. I didn’t want to take it apart because of warranty, but I know what I’m doing with the guts of a flashlight, so I guess I’ll break it down and make sure everything is where it should be. I hope I can fix it cause I waited forever with slow shipping and getting a replacement will be like pulling teeth.
Hello and thanks for the response. I’ve been focusing on the tail switch. I have tried a variety of cells 26650, 30Q’s, basic 18650 all with nipples or magnets to make connection. I will check the driver rimg now. I didn’t want to take it apart because of warranty, but I know what I’m doing with the guts of a flashlight, so I guess I’ll break it down and make sure everything is where it should be. I hope I can fix it cause I waited forever with slow shipping and getting a replacement will be like pulling teeth.
The flickering is due to the battery tube is simply too long, even with button top or solder blobbed cells. The Rings are due to the threads of the internal focusing mechanism and are unavoidable. Take off the bezel and lens and the focus the light in and out (with it off) and you will see. Here is what I posted in another thread:
“I received my HT35 over the weekend. I got home from a trip Sunday evening and only had time to play with the light for a couple minutes. My initial observations were mostly disappointments and negatives:
- Obvious chip in anodizing prominent on bezel. In the grand scheme I don’t care that much about the chip since I like to use my lights, not shelf them, so most of them show signs of use after a while – it is just a little disappointing in a brand new light.
- Visually not near as much lux (zoomed in spot not as bright as) a 250kcd Brinyte B158. Didn’t have time to measure with the meter.
- Batteries super loose (lengthwise) in tube. 2x Liitokalla 26650 with solder blobs added are still so loose that they lose connection and the light switches off just from handling, not even needing to be tapped or hit (those things switch it off also).
- Bad rings, as previously mentioned from the design of how the pill “sinks into” the head to retract and achieve focus – rings are unavoidable from this mechanical design choice I think. * The B158 pill is on a pedestal that protrudes when in flood mode, and retracts to put the pill flush to the body in zoom mode. The B158 design is superior for a cleaner beam, the HT35 is superior for heat.
However there were some Positives:
- Nice solid pill, and as the last bullet point above mentions, and heat management should be good (relatively speaking for a zoomable light).
- The collar around the LED is black and has a very nice matte finish, it is obviously a deliberate and good design choice (as opposed to an afterthought in many lights) that was made to eliminate internal reflections. The best attempt by a manufacturer that I’ve seen in a stock light.
The rings when zoomed in are really unfortunate and distracting, and due to the mechanical design of the light – probably unavoidable. HOWEVER, the way the light goes together I think maybe makes this a good candidate for my first attempt at adding a collimating lens to an aspheric light.”
Hmm I watch both of thoose videos this morning :
I suppose that there is some big problems that guys will mention it ?
Does someone else have similar problems like Sac02 ? Especially with batteries and losing contact.