WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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jon_slider
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Jchang76 wrote:
my most used light is a 219c triple

on my arm looks horrible (low r9?)

Yes, I test R9 on my skin.

you might also enjoy a triple in a Magnetic Rotary Smile
you can buy from Skylumen.com

or roll your own if you have the resources:
(pic is a link)

X3 wrote:

Jeffg0330 wrote:
I’m not happy.

sorry to hear
Im glad you posted your first impressions.
this makes me rethink recommending the magnetic rotaries
you are not the first to make those observations.. I have ways to live with them, but I wont blame you for stepping aside.

My lights get new control ring grease and new LED. I appreciate you making me aware that not everyone follows the upgrade path I use for my magnetic rotaries. To me they are not acceptable in stock form. I cannot tolerate low CRI.

sad but true (requires modding):
> detentes do vary, some are too hard, some are practically non existent
> lubrication and ring resistance, or lack thereof, also varies between lights

about the tailswitch
with your 2020, you have the option to use the switch to turn the light off and on, with the dial in any position. There is no need to turn the dial all the way down on the 2020,
use the switch to give yourself the option for Last Mode Memory.

> the ring does not produce immediate light from off

Unheard wrote:
light is visible only in absolute darkness with adapted eyes.

thanks for that clear explanation
RRT-01 are capable of lower lows than HDS… its a feature, not a bug.. LOL
Unheard wrote:
regulation

sadly, magnetic rotaries are not regulated on LiIon, only on CR123

about first impressions:
they can change, sometimes
The RRT-01 is far from perfect, its just better, for me now, than other imperfect lights

there is no perfect light, off the shelf
the RRT-01 can be improved, and imo it is a Fantastic Intuitive UI

I respect that a light with a loose ring can be unacceptable, and I encourage you to send it back. If you are willing to try your luck again, buy another one.. hopefully the detente will be better, and also the lubrication.

devils advocate
the detente is not needed, since the 2020 has a switch
and, IF the control ring is disassembled and relubricated with Nyogel 767a, the detente is not needed even on the 2012 and 2019 models with no tailswitch. (I realize that is a Big If)

what I like about Magnetic Rotaries, that I cannot get in any other design

1. the ramping is totally intuitive, I dont need to read a manual, nor think about what mode steps the drive has

2. Magnetic Ramping is Visually Stepless. HDS has 24 hops, Spy has 7 hops, they are not visually Stepless.

definitely not perfect, but I can live with it, IF the LED gets changed and the ring lubricated.

I revise my recommendation of the RRT-01
Do NOT buy, unless you are in a position to Upgrade the LED and the control ring grease.

as an alternative, consider an FW3a or other Anduril lights.. they have visually stepless ramping (150 hops), which I find useful and not jarring.

contactcr wrote:

My 2019 is with smooth reflector and 219B. I fixed the focus a bit better by using 3 layers of kapton tape under the reflector very carefully cut and ditched the centering ring. YMMV.



outstanding beam for my preference in tight “throwy” hotspots

sounds like moving the reflector (designed for a wider LED) closer to the 219b (smaller die), improved the beam.
very helpful tip Beer

Firelight2
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Spent some time swapping around parts in some of my magnetic ring lights last night.

A week ago, I accidentally destroyed the driver in my TCR-01. I had the light setup as a triple, but wasn’t satisfied with it as the output seemed too low.

  • I swapped in the driver from my 2019 RRT-01
  • I swapped in a high-CRI 219C originally taken from a Lumintop EDC18. This 219C has excellent rosy tint. Almost like the famous 219B. But I still wasn’t satisfied with the lumens. So I ended up swapping again for an XPL HI 5D …. much better. It’s not high CRI, but makes up for with vastly better output and throw.
  • I also swapped in an orange peel reflector.

Fairly happy with the light now. It looks very slightly throwier than my 2020 RRT-01 neutral, and its quite a bit smaller.

So as not to waste my 2019 RRT01, I swapped in the driver from any old EYE10. This was a driver where I had attempted wiuthout success to resistor mod it to up the current. And I had replaced the driver wires with 22 aug wires. It works now, but it’s definitely not as good as the original 2019 driver. Output is noticeably lower.

Guess I need to contact Jetbeam and see about ordering replacement drivers so I can upgrade my older lights for more output.

I find high-CRI to be nice, but raw output to be nicer. If I feel in the mood for high-CRI I’ll grab my D4V2 or an FW3A with SST20. With 18500 tube installed those lights are similar in size to the earlier model RRT-01, but have vastly more output while using a cell with twice the capacity (using 2200 mAh 18500 INR Vapcell).

jon_slider
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> Fairly happy with the light now.

glad you are finding options you enjoy
thumbs up on buying a couple spare drivers, they are inexpensive, to save a host

> I find high-CRI to be nice, but raw output to be nicer.

both is best Smile

> If I feel in the mood for high-CRI…[multi emitter lights] vastly more output

I like your strategy,
high output and High CRI triples and quads
plus
high output throwy single LEDs

examples of throwy and floody beams on modded RRT-01
throwy single

floody triple and quad mule

—-
here is a post that came up in one of my searches in this thread.. those of you interested in LH351d for its high lumen output may find this encouraging:

djozz wrote:
now I’m happy.

the output is back up to 615 lumen.

I think this is the best led I can think of for this nice flashlight


pic links to original post
Jchang76
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contactcr wrote:
Jchang76 wrote:
i kept wondering why you guys were talking op reflector. i have smooth reflector because they sent me an xpl (Even though i had asked for nichia) .

now i’d like to compare op vs smooth. i know the theoretical differences. contractor, your shots were with op yes? mine were smooth…

The orange peel is very light so it’s probably only ~15% less throwy with the hot spot to corona transition being less defined and more smoothed out. The spill is more “even” edge to edge where as SMO kind of fades out more and more as it reaches the edge.


My 2019 is with smooth reflector and 219B. I fixed the focus a bit better by using 3 layers of kapton tape under the reflector very carefully cut and ditched the centering ring. YMMV.

My 2020 originally had Nichia so it has a light OP reflector. I don’t have the 2020 model in smooth/xpl version to compare.

Now that I have changed the emitter and sliced it I doubt the comparison is of any use. Too many variables.

Sorry, i am not adept at quoting or know how to refer to a buried post…

Did you do the kraton tape adjustment and lose the centering ring / spacer on your 2020 as well?

Nice beam adjustment! Do you trust the kraton tape to isolate the bottom of the reflector from the wiring solders? And did it feel firmly seated without the ring / spacer?

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Jchang76 wrote:

Sorry, i am not adept at quoting or know how to refer to a buried post…

Did you do the kraton tape adjustment and lose the centering ring / spacer on your 2020 as well?

Nice beam adjustment! Do you trust the kraton tape to isolate the bottom of the reflector from the wiring solders? And did it feel firmly seated without the ring / spacer?

Here is what I did on the 2020 model (it uses a more traditional centering ring which I kept and looked good with the LED I chose):

I cut flat parts on the centering ring so it would not “rock” against screw heads and clear my solder blobs. It sits nice and even now.



For the 2019 model I used the 3 layers of tape and left off the centering ring. Surprisingly, the reflector was not shorting anything even without the tape but that made it sit too low and the tape did give some extra piece of mind that it would be electrically isolated as well.
Jchang76
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Those “blobs “ look nice snd clean compared to my work. Was taught after learning by experience (thx js), to solder before thermal pasting and anchoring down the mcpcb. And having an appropriate iron helps! Ive been known to leave mine on for days on end at work (by accident), and cleaning the tip on a wire wheel grinder (on purpose Blushing prob not a good idea right? ) needless to say, i think it runs a little cool now.

So i really had to lean in on reattaching the leads, they came out a little tall somehow (usable, and cleared the ring sides barely by luck, but i think they short out on the bottom of my reflector if i snug down on the bezel)

Thx! I like the clean look of this square cut centering ring also.
What are the radiused notches for? Different emitter footprint?

Jc

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Jchang76 wrote:
What are the radiused notches for? Different emitter footprint?

Jc

Higher end PCBs tend to have this extra bit of pad that comes out from the pos/neg pad and the thermal pad where extra solder spills over. I think it accounts for that.

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So I was whining last week about being disappointed in my 2020 version because of a “loose” ring. FWIW I received a second one today and this sample is MUCH better. This ring is not “mushy” for lack of a better word, I’d say it’s minimum 50% firmer and smoother allowing me to easily dial in my desired brightness. The first one was loose enough to change brightness by itself in my pocket. Sure that’s not an issue if using the tailswitch, but for certain applications I prefer to have it on and turned all the way down.

I just swapped out with a high CRI Nichia (Thanks to J_S) and now i’m enjoying this light that I really wanted to like. That’s what this hobby is all about for me.

jon_slider
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congratulations!
thanks for the update

the amount of grease on the ring makes a huge difference to me too

whining is good group therapy, glad you feel better now Thumbs Up

at some point, if you want more detail,
pm me if you would like a walk through on the disassembly steps to do your own ring regrease,
glad it is not immediately necessary

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Symptom- rrt01 stopped working at work today, after using a good hour, ons snd offs, not straight.
A little while later wouldn’t turn on. Took it apart snd it turned on as mule so i think my tall blobs were shorting again.
Resoldered the blobs snd now the light has a flicker at med-high levels.

… there’s a suspicious plasticy smell btw! Not a good sign. But the light does turn on. And the battery is charged i think. When it was brand new before i swapped emitter it flickered on all levels, i charged the batt and it never happened again, pre or post swap… If burnt driver… can i crawl to jb and try to buy parts or is this going to be a do over?

Thanks for notch analysis earlier too

pol77
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Jetbeam will sell you a driver.

The driver costs $10 and shipping costs $7. You can buy multiple drivers and shipping is the same.

Make sure your soldering is done nicely, with a bit of flux and without big blobs as the reflector will cause shorts in this light.

It is either a bad solder joint that is causing the flickering or the driver got damaged because of the short caused by the reflector.

id30209
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Like pol77 said just small amount of solder, clean everything afterward.

I also like to add liquid electrical tape instead of kapton on solder points to avoid any possibility of shortening.

You can find iz here:

https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

pol77
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id30209 wrote:

Like pol77 said just small amount of solder, clean everything afterward.


I also like to add liquid electrical tape instead of kapton on solder points to avoid any possibility of shortening.


You can find iz here:


https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD

How does the liquid tape hold up to heat? Does it melt or smell when the LED gets very hot?

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Not at all. It’a industrial rated and i’m using it on SBT90.2 hotrod without a twitch. It makes a hard rubber like insulated layer over anything and it’s even resistant to light mechanical damage. The best part is that you can remove it anytime 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Jchang76
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Thank you much! I suspected as much. I shall order new driver. Jetbeam is asking me where i got my light etc. I think they think i am complaining when i fully happy paying for driver and shipping.
Unless they want to send a freebee I’m ok with that but i did admit fault here, we’re tinkerers and that fun doesn’t come without some fails…

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Edit- never mind, i think i burnt something out, hope jb will sell me a driver. Here’s pic of some crusty bead coming out of a thing amajiggy.  And btw now ive tried another battery, took off the bottom driver cover which acts as reverse polarity lock out snd i could test with my flat top batteries.

-
Shouldn’t a shorted reflector act kind of like a bulb with a super high vf? What im asking is, shouldn’t it be a survivable incident, may have been 10 minutes vs 10 seconds during testing after emitter swap. The first time it was ok afterwards at all levels. This time didn’t come back ok, the battery pretty low, maybe i damaged it, it ots the stock battery may have lvp internal?? I should but have not tried another batt. I did charge the battery and after a reasonable charge time, indicator light went green. The smell made me think there’s a problem (flicker plus smell) snd btw flickers faster at higher current snd slowish at medium (maybe 3hz), no flicker at low. Please advise, thx. I will rework/ check solder snd spacing etc… but i think you guys right, time to order a driver (once jb deems me worthy)

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I have a spare 2019 RRT-01 driver. PM me your mailing address.

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A protected battery will (should) trip when it’s direct shorted. Probably what happened initially. I usually test all my mods without reflector on low power just to test function then finish building just so I know it worked before final assembly. My first few mods I used a protected battery always to test and it did save me once! Another time I got stubborn and refused to believe I shorted something. Needless to say I turned some springs to jello in just a few seconds. That short came from the bottom side of driver though not a reflector.

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Pm to Mr Slider. Always quick to help Jonathan. I will keep on the jb support angle and update as well.
Thanks JS, your support for the hobby and willingness to correspond is getting expensive, lucky the gf still amused by all of this. I haven’t moved onto the kitchen counter space yet! We’ll see what happens when the soldering station an overflow flashlights (from the desk where they are relatively contained still) start staying there full time!

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These drivers are pretty much direct drive when the battery voltage is above the vf of the led. The only thing that keeps them from frying anything is a diode, inductor and resistor all in series with the led. All of them have some resistance added up, that limits current to the led.
The part that looks like you blew is the inductor. If the led leads where shorted the current probably became higher than the inductor could handle.
Its possble that replacing the inductor could fix it, but just ordering a new driver would be much easier and gurateed to fix it.
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to order you a couple of spares just in case.

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Does that piece have innards tyo fry? Im handy but not pro with a soldering iron, how does one unsolder a row of headers (in case my terminology wrong, the through hole rows of prongs that connect two layers of board)? Ive put them together but in terms of disassembly, seems problematic, i have done drag iron back and forth and flow the row on arduinos snd other smallish boards, loose wires can be done individually though so more easily accomplished. Can i use wick?

I think you’re right, use new driver but attempting repair sounds fun also. Can those components starting with inductor, be sourced and specs id’d easily?

Thank you, you all are incredibly helpful. Ive been catapulted to “pro modder “ in the eyes of some around me. Because i swapped a few leds and complain horribly about light tint.

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JETBeam confirmed that RRT01 Raptor NW CRI is 70.

I emailed them via their official website (jetbeamlight).

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TimMc wrote:
JETBeam confirmed that RRT01 Raptor NW CRI is 70.

yes, it is a Low CRI LED
pic is a link

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Tribute to moderator007 for discovering the replacement reflector that works with 219b in Original RRT-01.

note the difference in hotspot size..

stock beam

moderator007 reflector beam quality!

Thank you Sir moderator007!

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what reflector is this and where available pls? also i guess i should ask if it will work in my 2020 rrt01? which will back on line after new driver kindly provided by Mr. J Slider! thanks jonathan! btw, the driver looks nearly identical to my burnt 2020. JB claims the 2020 has a updated driver, they say there is new temperature related componenet or update, i do see a small chip with different labeling, but otherwise, seemingly identical, i will post pic tonight…hopefully someone can id said parts.

i can live with my beam profile as is, it came out pretty nice anyway, just would like a more diffused option without having to diffuse by tape or stick on layers…

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Jchang76 wrote:
reflector… if it will work in my 2020

no,

the moderator007 reflector only fits original models of RRT-01 and Eye10..

and fwiw,
NOS of RRT-01 from aushunteronline are completely sold out now.

there is no other retail source for Original RRT-01 that I know of

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Im too slow jon_slider beat me to it. Facepalm
As far as I know the refelector sizes are different between original RRT-01 and the 2019 RRT-01. The one jon_slider is refering to fits the original RRT-01 with no rings was mentioned here.
.
Thanks jon_slider, glad you like it. I didn’t do much, I just bought a bunch of reflectors with similar dimensions and tried them all out. I got lucky these worked with out any modification. Thumbs Up

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Here’s my 2020 driver side by side with an “older gen” kindly loaned to me by Jonathan.

There is only one chip i see that it’s labeled different. I should circle it… I’ll circle it.

Can anyone id the component? Also are your guys’ (you all with the 2020s) driver’s visually identical to the old ones also?

Jb claimed that the 2020 is different, something about temperature management. I have ordered a couple/ few 2020 drivers, we’ll see if they look different than what came out of my 2020 which looks the same as Jonathan’s 2019/2012 driver.

Won’t know if it behaves the same until I’m brave enough to crank down the bezel again. I made cleaner solders but will wait for liquid etape or kraton tape to ensure electrical iso from the reflector.

What is this kraton tape a lot of you talk of? Do i need that more than conventional etape? Do i need liquid etape? Is plastidip similar to liquid etape? Maybe less quick drying? Would either be considered potting compound?

Sssalotta questions, any comments appreciated ..

Btw, in the picture, the “2020” driver is on the left, the 2019 is on the right, with circled part, and im still debating whether the replacement i ordered will go in once arrived, or just keep the 2019 in it. Which may have shipped simultaneously but Jonathan’s postal logistics (and geography) lapped jb’s by a goodly amount…

Ps, i have syringes w various tips at work, tomorrow I’ll be injecting nyogel into the alleged grease hole in the control ring…

pol77
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According to Jetbeam, the 2020 drivers are marked RRT01 where the 2019 are marked EYE10. If that is accurate, it looks like there are two 2019 drivers in your photo.

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Interesting, mine was on the first shipment out of China.

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