WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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Jchang76
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Interesting, mine (light) was on the first shipment out of China. Ordered in may sent beginning of June.

contactcr
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I dont think there is any different in 2019 and 2020.

2012 has different sense resistor I believe (lower output)

“2019” is not the “old” driver

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2011:
I recently repaired an Original RRT-01 that has this driver, marked RRT-01 2011 (no strobe):

the 2011 RRT-01 box claimed 500 lumens.. I verified that light did indeed reach 510 lumens, momentary maximum, on my meter

2012:
during the group buys last year, of Original RRT-01 from Australia, that RRT-01 driver was in some of the lights
and the Eye10 driver, with the date 2012 (yes strobe) was in some of the other lights

the new packaging in 2012 claimed 600 lumens.. I have not verified
I did verify one of the 2012 RRT-01 that came in a box labeled 600 lumens, actually produced 460 lumens, not 510, and not 600. The light was one with no strobe. That tells me it had the 2011 driver.

the above lights all came with XM-L LEDs
based on what I have seen, some of the 2011 drivers went into the 2012 lights, so there were at least 3 different batches:
2011
2012 w 2011 driver
2012 w 2012 driver

2019:
when the 2019 model came out, it had an XP-L LED
it also had the 2012 Eye10 driver (supposedly with a resistor change to allow higher output):

moderator007 wrote:

packaging claims 950 lumens, I have not verified. Ive seen a couple tests reporting about 700 lumens.

whether the increase in lumens was due to an LED change, or a resistor change, or both I dont know

2020:
now Jchang reports his 2020 RRT-01 also has the driver marked 2012 Eye10 (presumably from the 2019 run)

Jchang wrote:


from this I infer that some 2020 lights are using the 2019 driver (marked 2012)

iow, Jetbeam sometimes releases a new model, but installs remaining drivers from the prior model, in some of the lights, but not necessarily in all of them.

So, I would not be surprised if some of the 2020 RRT-01 transition to a driver with different marks than the driver in the 2019.

talk is the 2020 driver is marked RRT-01, and has thermal regulation. I have not seen a photo of that driver yet.

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moderator007
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I can’t confirm this but my thoughts from what I gather in playing with this driver, are that they all are using the same type circuit including Sunwayman’s rotary’s, the only difference being the components used, current limiting resistor and the UI (firmware). The RRT-01 driver 2011, 2012, and 2019 are identical in layout. With the 2012 and 2019 driver adding strobe and SOS using the same components and layout, that makes me think those features were simply added to the firmware.
If the newer drivers have a overheat feature then it would either have to be done by adding a thermal sensor or using a newer type mcu that has it on board, then its a matter of adding in the proper code for the sensor in the firmware. I dont own any of the new 2020 models yet, so I’m in the dark with those.

jon_slider wrote:

whether the increase in lumens was due to an LED change, or a resistor change, or both I dont know


Both, the original 2011, 2012 driver can be modified by changing the current limiting resistor to match the 2019 output.
I also modified the Sunwayman V11R driver that pretty much matches the 2019 RRT-01 driver in output but it took changing a few components for better ones and the current limiting resistor. The 2019 driver uses a .0500 ohm current limiting resistor and I believe the 2011, 2012 used a .100 ohm resistor.
Jchang76
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I have 3 2020 drivers on the way, wil report in… in maybe 6 weeks to 6 months.

In the meantime ive installed another 2019 to replace my 2019 2020. Am i confused enough? I was straining to find a difference. Now makes sense, this early batch would have “old” drivers. I meant older than now, i forget there were 8 years previous to my awakening and seeing the light.

Im hesitant to short another driver, in my impatience I’m adding small etape barrier.

What would be advantages of the kraton tape i see you guys using? or liquid etape, i can infer the advantage of that, application wouldve been easier and protective layer, like secondhand potting?

Im reporting the “grease hole” took some grease, not as much as i would want. Even working the 100 degrees or so of rotation I’m sure I’m barely getting 30 % of what i want in there. The grease would go through to other side of the ring at least but did not feel like it was filling any cavity, see pic.

I may have to get the gloves, vise grips, pot o water snd freezer out and do something. But that said… there is a significant improvement and dampening of the ring. I would want a little stiffer but it’s an order of magnitude better.

Im thinking this is more an oil or very light grease hole. Don’t know if that makes sense but i don’t know what else it would be given the limited coverage with the rotation limited to just over 1/4 turn. Maybe it’s more like 1/3 turn. 120 degrees ish. But more viscous liquid would wick in..

The last one is just some misc homework i did while i procrastinate reassembling the rrt01. Eliminate speigeldot on 319 triple with new secondaries via med frosted… plus other off topic stuffs

What is correct order of reassembly after mcpcb?

Spacer ring, reflector then is it oring-glass-bezel or glass-oring-bezel??

Please advise.

I took a picture of my first disassembly and it looks like oring glass bezel, which seems wrong compared to ALL my other lights (not positive about that but there’s a definite trend to oring outside of glass just looking over my desk here). But i lined up what i thought was the disassembly order in my pic. I’m doubting my memory now. Wtfs happening, shouldn’t i know this? I think i understand the principle of sealing at the outermost layer… but the rrt seems to like it the other way. Help pls.

My imugr pics still commentable, someone just asked why i don’t just buy a new light. Said it looked like a lot of work snd effort for a flashlight! Haha, if they only knew what happens here! What’s the post count for this one particular topic? Haha we suck! That’s ok, no offense anyone.

Jchang76
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Ps.

Can someone recommend a good method for cleaning a smooth reflector? There’s some kind of residue maybe from when i shorted the light..i did not witness anything but afterwards the innermost part of the reflector had a hazy residue. Whitish not sooty. Plus fingerprints near outer edge from sloppy handling. I wiped with a lens cloth for glasses , reduced 90 % but don’t want to scratch it. I swear it’s causing mild tint shift.

Firelight2
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Jchang76 wrote:
Ps.

Can someone recommend a good method for cleaning a smooth reflector? There’s some kind of residue maybe from when i shorted the light..i did not witness anything but afterwards the innermost part of the reflector had a hazy residue. Whitish not sooty. Plus fingerprints near outer edge from sloppy handling. I wiped with a lens cloth for glasses , reduced 90 % but don’t want to scratch it. I swear it’s causing mild tint shift.

Most flashlight reflectors are EXTREMELY delicate. Even a small amount of wiping could take off the reflective coating.

Personally, I try never to touch or rub the reflector. I might use a compressed air canister to blow debris off, but that’s about it. A fingerprint might be unsightly, but it’s less damaging to the reflector than accidentally taking the coating off trying to get rid of it.

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moderator007 wrote:
I can’t confirm this but my thoughts from what I gather in playing with this driver, are that they all are using the same type circuit including Sunwayman

I believe you are correct.

I just modded a Sunwayman V11r to sw45k and compared its max output to my Eye10 tic that is also modded to sw45k. the outputs were identical.

(I move the same battery from one light to the next and measure momentary maximum)

I compared to my TCR-1 that also has an sw45k, and it was just 10 lumens brighter, it has a spring bypass. I dont know if thats the reason, or normal variation between components.

Sunwayman, Jetbeam, Niteye, (and Nitecore), are all subsidiaries of Sysmax, and though the hosts have cosmetic differences, there are also a lot of shared resources. In fact, the Jetbeam reflector also fits the Eye10, and the heads and body tubes lego. And the vast majority of Jetbeam RRT-01 versions I have seen, have Eye10 drivers in them too.

Sunwayman is a bit more different than Eye/RRT original, in the way the driver is mounted. The driver wires dont go through the control ring to the mcpcb, the way they do on Eye/RRT original, so Sunwayman is easier to mod, without having to remove the driver, nor bezel and reflector.

The 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 use the sunwayman design, so dont have the risk of torn driver wires of the Eye/RRT original, when splitting the control ring assembly.

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trakcon
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I just received a RRT-01 and noticed that the ring doesn’t turn perfectly smoothly. The lower end feels pretty smooth and well damped, but especially towards the higher end of outputs, the ring feels rougher, like it’s rubbing or needs to be lubed. The thing is, turning the ring a dozen or so times leaves my fingers covered with what appears to be silicone grease on them, so clearly the ring has lubrication. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks.

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trakcon wrote:
I just received a RRT-01 and noticed that the ring doesn’t turn perfectly smoothly. The lower end feels pretty smooth and well damped, but especially towards the higher end of outputs, the ring feels rougher, like it’s rubbing or needs to be lubed. The thing is, turning the ring a dozen or so times leaves my fingers covered with what appears to be silicone grease on them, so clearly the ring has lubrication. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks.

Sounds like too much lubricant around the sides of the ring. None of my Jetbeam lights have that problem.

The solution is to disassemble the light, remove the stock grease and apply fresh grease. Note that disassembly takes some effort and will require desoldering and removing the driver first.

I recall seeing some threads here and on CPF describing the best kind of grease to use, but I don’t have links to them. The grease I got from my local automotive shop was not an improvement. Best to order the right kind of grease.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best type of grease to use?

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Firelight2 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
I just received a RRT-01 and noticed that the ring doesn’t turn perfectly smoothly. The lower end feels pretty smooth and well damped, but especially towards the higher end of outputs, the ring feels rougher, like it’s rubbing or needs to be lubed. The thing is, turning the ring a dozen or so times leaves my fingers covered with what appears to be silicone grease on them, so clearly the ring has lubrication. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks.

Sounds like too much lubricant around the sides of the ring. None of my Jetbeam lights have that problem.

The solution is to disassemble the light, remove the stock grease and apply fresh grease. Note that disassembly takes some effort and will require desoldering and removing the driver first.

I recall seeing some threads here and on CPF describing the best kind of grease to use, but I don’t have links to them. The grease I got from my local automotive shop was not an improvement. Best to order the right kind of grease.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best type of grease to use?

How easy is disassembly to the point that you can get under the ring? I was planning on doing an emitter swap anyway, but figured getting under the ring would be a challenge.

moderator007
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2019 model or original model?
The grease coming out doesn’t necessarly mean you have grease in all the right places and they’re could also be some type of cotaminants inside.
I have had a V10R feel a little rough even though it had plenty of teflon grease. I figured out that the ring top was rubbing agaisnt the head. It had rubbed and made rough spots on both the head and ring. I used 2000 grit sandpaper and polished both contact surfaces to a high shine. Smooth as silk now.
You’ll probably have to disassemble the light to figure out where the roughness is coming from.
Dampnig grease also improves the feel of the control ring, recommendations are buried in this thread.

trakcon
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moderator007 wrote:
2019 model or original model? The grease coming out doesn’t necessarly mean you have grease in all the right places and they’re could also be some type of cotaminants inside. I have had a V10R feel a little rough even though it had plenty of teflon grease. I figured out that the ring top was rubbing agaisnt the head. It had rubbed and made rough spots on both the head and ring. I used 2000 grit sandpaper and polished both contact surfaces to a high shine. Smooth as silk now. You’ll probably have to disassemble the light to figure out where the roughness is coming from. Dampnig grease also improves the feel of the control ring, recommendations are buried in this thread.

It’s the new (2020?) model.

Firelight2
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trakcon wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
I just received a RRT-01 and noticed that the ring doesn’t turn perfectly smoothly. The lower end feels pretty smooth and well damped, but especially towards the higher end of outputs, the ring feels rougher, like it’s rubbing or needs to be lubed. The thing is, turning the ring a dozen or so times leaves my fingers covered with what appears to be silicone grease on them, so clearly the ring has lubrication. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks.

Sounds like too much lubricant around the sides of the ring. None of my Jetbeam lights have that problem.

The solution is to disassemble the light, remove the stock grease and apply fresh grease. Note that disassembly takes some effort and will require desoldering and removing the driver first.

I recall seeing some threads here and on CPF describing the best kind of grease to use, but I don’t have links to them. The grease I got from my local automotive shop was not an improvement. Best to order the right kind of grease.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best type of grease to use?

How easy is disassembly to the point that you can get under the ring? I was planning on doing an emitter swap anyway, but figured getting under the ring would be a challenge.

Instructions to disassemble to the 2012 RRT-01’s ring.
Note that I have not yet attempted to disassemble my 2019 and 2020 RRT-01s. However, I have removed the driver from them and looked underneath and I believe the process is the same. The differences between the models are largely cosmetic. The internal construction of the head is the same.

WARNING: you MUST remove the driver before disassembling the head to get at the ring. If you do not, the act of unscrewing the two sections holding the ring will torque the driver wires and quite possibly destroy the driver.

  • Unscrew and remove the bezel – Do this by gripping the bezel with one hand and the head ABOVE the ring with the other. Do not grip on or below the ring. In the 2012 RRT-01 and TCR-01 I used 3M indoor stairway grip tape for the necessary grip. With the 2019 or 2020 models place a flat piece of grip tape over the front of the light, then press into your hand and turn. If you don’t have grip tape, you might try a rubber jar opener or the sole of a shoe. The bezel in the 2019 and 2020 versions is not threadlocked.
  • Remove the reflector – with the bezel off, remove the lens (it’s probably still in the bezel), then remove the reflector. In the 2012 model, the reflector falls out. In the 2019 and 2020 models there is a fat o-ring around the edges of the bezel keeping it in. Use a small hooked tool or tweezers to grab and remove the o-ring. With the o-ring off the bezel should fall out.
  • Remove the plastic insulating spacer around the LED with tweezers.
  • Desolder the driver wires from the star
  • Straighten the driver wires to vertical so they won’t get caught when the driver is removed.
  • Unscrew and remove the driver retaining screw. The screw is on the bottom of the head at the top of the battery compartment. You will need a small torx head screwdriver.
  • Lift off the driver retaining plate with a screwdriver.
  • Remove the driver. Using long-nosed pliers grip the center post on the bottom of the driver and pull the driver out of the light.
  • To prevent it from falling out and possibly damaging the LED, it’s not a bad idea to also remove the star at this point.
  • Unscrew the top half of the head from the bottom half. The head is composed of 2 sections that screw together underneath the star. Grip the portion of the head above the ring and the portion below the ring and unscrew. Note that you might need to use a lot of force. In the 2012 version, these portions were threadlocked and I suspect the 2019 and 2020 versions are the same.
  • Once the head is in 2 sections you can then lift off and remove the ring. Please note that the ring has a tiny ball-bearing and spring on the side of the ring for the detentes. They probably won’t fall off on their own when you remove the ring due to the grease holding them in place. However, if you brush them they might come off. Do not lose them when removing the ring.

At this point you can clean off all the old lube and relube the ring with your choice of new lube. Then reverse the entire process to reassemble the light.

While you have it disassembled, this is also a good time to upgrade the emitter. Perhaps a high-CRI 219C.

Overall, it’s a fairly involved process to disassemble one of these lights to get at the ring. However, once you know how to do it, it’s not hard. Just go slow and methodical and double-check to make sure you aren’t skipping any steps.

jon_slider
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I have not opened a 2020, but Ive done a couple 2019, and I think they are the same design.

The 2019 model does not require removing the driver.

I dont have photos of your exact model, but I think you will get the idea from these:

2019 uses the Sunwayman design,
not the 2012 RRT-01 design

the control ring halves on the 2019 can be unscrewed without removing the mcpcb, driver, bezel, lens, reflector…

here are some tools I used to open a sunwayman

on this sunwayman you can see the control ring upside down after being simply lifted off the bottom half of the assembly, and in its normal position showing its magnets

I like Nyogel 767a:

(thats a 2012 RRT-01)

I agree with moderator007 that besides the interior areas of lubrication, that it is possible to improve feel with a small amount of thinner lube on the face he described polishing, that makes contact with the magnet side of the control ring.

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trakcon
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Thanks, everyone.

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I’ll borrow jon-slider’s pick Big Smile .
.

.
Those two surface need to be free from glue and decently smooth with some lube of your choice added.
Since this gap between the head and ring isn’t sealed that’s usually where you will find most of your pocket lint and dust.
.
@firelight2
That’s a good detailed decsription of the tear down. Thumbs Up

asdqqq
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Any chance anyone would be willing to trade a set of the extension tubes for putting a 219b sw45k in my 2020 model? Or if that’s not a fair deal, let me know what would be Smile

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asdqqq wrote:
putting a 219b sw45k in my 2020 model?
good idea Thumbs Up
if you dont get a trade offer,
another option is to ask skylumen.com

info request

What is the parasitic drain of the 2020 RRT-01 when the switch is ON and the dial is turned to minimum?

and
what is the parasitic drain of the 2019 model when the dial is turned to minimum … Smile

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Unheard
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2019 was lower 40uA iirc. Off Facepalm

12mA.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

contactcr
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2020: 3mA (assuming I am doing this correctly, dont take my word for it)

kanton
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I would want this clipped to my belt with the clip included. Can anyone tell me if the ring will turn by rubbing at my jeans? (when set at high or off)? How stiff are the detents at “off” and “high”?
The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever. Same goes true for carrying it in my pockets.

contactcr
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kanton wrote:
I would want this clipped to my belt with the clip included. Can anyone tell me if the ring will turn by rubbing at my jeans? (when set at high or off)? How stiff are the detents at “off” and “high”? The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever. Same goes true for carrying it in my pockets.

For the 2019 version the detents are probably stiff enough that wont happen often and if it did it would take a pretty decent turn to come on with enough brightness to really drain your battery

For the 2020 the detents are almost non-existent BUT it has a very recessed and firm forward switch so it’s not really an issue.

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contactcr wrote:
2020: 3mA (assuming I am doing this correctly, dont take my word for it)

thanks
trust but verify

word on the street is
the 2012 has a drain of 55uA (selbuilt)
the 2019 has a drain of 27uA (djozz)
the 2020 switched on, dial at minimum has a drain of:

contactcr wrote:
2020: 3mA (assuming I am doing this correctly, dont take my word for it)

Unheard wrote:
12mA.

.

kanton wrote:
The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever.

you might not want a rotary light then

I fondle my dial all the time. That is what I love about it.

If you want the dial to be guaranteed to stay where you left it the last time you used it, plan on upgrading the grease in the dial to Nyogel 767a

with that being said, Ive never had a rotary dial turn in my pocket… but I would hate for you to be disappointed…

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contactcr
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Gosh don’t quote me I can barely use a multimeter. It doesnt really make sense why it would increase so who knows, I am probably wrong.

Unheard
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The “lower 40uA” is for off, the 12mA for on, but at minimum. I was completely confused by the term “switched on” regarding the 2020 model. Ok?

Found a different meter and could repeat the measurement: Off is 26uA.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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kanton wrote:
I would want this clipped to my belt with the clip included. Can anyone tell me if the ring will turn by rubbing at my jeans? (when set at high or off)? How stiff are the detents at “off” and “high”?
The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever. Same goes true for carrying it in my pockets.

I haven’t had a problem with any of the rotary’s turning on accidently but I guess with the right force its possible.
If you dont like the thought of a possible accidently activation then Sunwayman rotary’s might be your cup of tea. They only come on if the tail switch is pushed and the dial stays where ever it was when you turned it off by pressing the switch button. They are hard to find now a days but a used one pops up ever now and then. I think the V11R is still around for sale in a few places. The V10R Ti is quite nice but rare.
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moderator007 wrote:
kanton wrote:
I would want this clipped to my belt with the clip included. Can anyone tell me if the ring will turn by rubbing at my jeans? (when set at high or off)? How stiff are the detents at “off” and “high”? The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever. Same goes true for carrying it in my pockets.
I haven’t had a problem with any of the rotary’s turning on accidently but I guess with the right force its possible. If you dont like the thought of a possible accidently activation then Sunwayman rotary’s might be your cup of tea. They only come on if the tail switch is pushed and the dial stays where ever it was when you turned it off by pressing the switch button. They are hard to find now a days but a used one pops up ever now and then. I think the V11R is still around for sale in a few places. The V10R Ti is quite nice but rare.

The 2020 Jetbeam RRT01 also has a tail switch, just like the Sunwayman V10R and V11R.

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Anyone else dislikes the silly post with hole for keyring at the tail end of the 2012 RRT01 and the TC-R1?

 

Wouldn't it be so much nicer if it had a flat wail with some trit slots?

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Its my least favorite part. It supposedely unscrews but I haven’t been able to break one free yet.
I know I can get it out but it would require shall we say “Unconventional methods”. Evil
.

pol77 wrote:

The 2020 Jetbeam RRT01 also has a tail switch, just like the Sunwayman V10R and V11R.


I had forgot about the new one. That be a option also.

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