WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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pol77
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I have taken the ball out and the ring worked freely, but I did not do it for long. As you know, opening the light requires removal of the driver first, so I will do the entire procedure when the new ball arrives, which should be within the week.

I do not think it is the grease becoming denser. I think it is the ball settling in the hole in a way it stops turning. I believe it is not round, even though I have not checked.

I will let you know how it goes with the new ball.

jon_slider
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fwiw, some of my lights feel like there is almost no detente. Especially after I add damping grease.

Im not sure a ball is necessary. If the grease is damping enough.

I have removed the ball from an Eye10. I used extra grease to get maximum damping. To be honest, I think I used more than necessary, it is a bit difficult to turn the dial now. But it met my objective. There is no chance the dial will turn unintentionally.

At the other end of the spectrum, I have one light whose ball has an unusually strong detente. I dont actually like it, because the extra effort to turn the dial past the detente, makes the dial turn too suddenly.

Most of my lights, have an almost unnoticeable detente, so I can ramp smoothy off the stop.

I look forward to your effective solution. Totally understand wanting to wait and try a new ball. But I wish you would try no ball, until the new one arrives. You may decide not to use it, and I wont have to wait as long for your results.

Balls are overrated.. Wink

moderator007
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I’ll throw this out there since we are on the detent ball, as a solution for a wore out hole or maybe a track groove from hole to hole where the ball rides.
This ball is about .015” bigger than the 2 mm ball which should let it ride and track in a completely different position than the 2 mm.
https://www.bcprecision.com/products/3-32-inch-si3n4-silicon-nitride-cer...
I bought a few just encase I ever needed it.

pol77
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Well, I have found the issue with the ring not working smoothly, no matter what.

Here is a picture of the new 2mm ceramic balls I received today on the top right and the bigger, not to mention corroded ball that was in there – I should have looked!.

I also used a felt wheel and Dremel red polishing paste to shine all the surfaces, but it is obvious the main issue was the ball.

jon_slider
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the princess and the pea.. LOL

pol77 wrote:
the main issue was the ball.

congrats on getting to the root of the problem

prize goes to moderator007 for the correct guess Smile

moderator007 wrote:
…ball. … I have seen one that was slightly flat spotted and caused roughness at sporatic times
pol77
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moderator007 gets all the credit and my thanks for pointing out the proper size and a good type for the ball. I got 10 to have in hand Wink

He also pointed out other trade secrets I will look into in due time Wink

My sincere and deepest gratitude!

moderator007
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Your original ball looks like a 3/32 ball, can you take a precise measure to see.
I measured the original ball at 2mm and have used that size in several RRT-01’s and TCR-1’s.
.
You got me wondering what happened here, so I went and measured the ball out of a brand new never opened TCR-1 I just modded.
It measures 2.38mm which is the 3/32 ball.
Its got me wondering if the ball had been replaced in the TCR-1 I original measured the ball in.
Either jetbeam used two different sizes (which I doubt) or someone had lost and replaced my TCR-1 ball with the wrong size.
I measured my wear replacement 3/32 ceramic balls at 2.38mm and the brand new original TCR-1 ball at 2.38mm so that would be the correct size ball.
I don’t know exactly what happened Pol77, I measured my TCR-1 ball at 2mm and ordered 50 of them with 10 3/32 balls as potential wear replacements.
2.38mm or 3/32 should be the correct size though. Puzzling why they would use a standard size ball and not metric.
It might be best to order a few of both sizes to make sure one will be a exact replacement.

pol77
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Aha! The plot thickens! I will see how it goes with this ball and if it is smooth, I’m happy. If I do not like the feeling, I will try the larger size.

moderator007
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I have used the 2mm many times and wouldn’t have even known any difference if it wasn’t for your pic, then measuring a original one I know had never been replaced.
.
The Si3N4 balls should be a permanent replacement that shouldn’t flat spot, they’re way harder than steel balls. Wink
They also have a G5 geometric tolerance rating which makes it more true to a perfect sphere than the steel balls.

jon_slider
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can someone verify the claim that there is thermal protection in the 2020 RRT-01 driver

output testing is showing 2020 driver is no brighter than the 2019 model, they reach about 550 lumens, according to tests done by HDS and myself.

there seems to be a difference in the components on the battery side of the drivers (bottom left 2019 vs bottom right 2020):

moderator007
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I can’t be sure without having one to test but what looks like a black 603 resistor just to the left of the numbers 200506 might be a thermistor.
I see they have moved components on the left side up a little to make room for two extra components.

Foghorne
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Is the small part circled in green diode D3?.

jon_slider
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moderator007 wrote:
thermistor
thanks for your great observations and info
so, a thermistor does what? dims the light at a certain temperature?

I also see other changes, no idea what it all means Smile

btw, I received the 2020 driver from Jchang76 as a free upgrade, after I lent him a 2019 driver.. I am very grateful to have the option to test the newest driver.. Thank you!

Foghorne wrote:
Is the small part circled in green diode D3?

I dont know, why do you ask?

Foghorne
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D3 on the 2019 board is missing on the 2020 version.

moderator007
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Its a resistor that changes value with temperature.
You can read about it here.
It could be using a thermistor and a resistor (the two foghorne circled) to create a voltage divider like described in section “Hardware linearization solution”.

moderator007
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Foghorne wrote:
D3 on the 2019 board is missing on the 2020 version.

Its missing from the battery side of the board. It could be that it was relocated on the other side of the battery pcb, which we dont have a view of.
Its a two piece stacked pcb driver.
pol77
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moderator007, can you say from the changes you see in the components what the purpose may be? Would the design dim the light to maintain a max temperature or will it work as a safeguard to shut it off if a temperature is reached?

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If it is a thermistor it only gives the mcu a way to measure the temp. The code that compares the reading would determine where and when step down or shut down would happen. It was all up to the designer and coder as to the features.

pol77
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So there is a possiblity the hardware is there but the code to take advantage of it is not.

I did turn on 2 TC-R1 lights, one with the 2019 and one with the 2020 driver and put them side by side on the table until they got fairly hot, but I did not push it because I have had a 2019 driver die on my a few days after I used the light for an actual emergency where I had to repair my girlfriends home lights that shorted. so the light was on top of a wardrobe on max until the battery almost died, while I was repairing the lights. It got quite hot but kept working and as the battery was depleted, output and temperature were lower and the light cooled off and kept working. A few days later, the light would suddenly not turn on. Replacing the driver fixed it. It looks like temperature killed the driver but not on the spot. In any case I am since reluctant to repeat the experiment and was excited to hear the 2020 driver may have some kind of thermal regulation / protection, but my short trial did not show it has. Maybe it needs to be tested for longer.

jon_slider
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pol77 wrote:
Maybe it needs to be tested for longer.

I would want an IR thermometer, to track temperature.. or some fancy autologger like I see in some reviews

===

trust but verify

regarding the 2020 RRT-01:
what is the parasitic drain when the dial is turned to minimum?

the 2012 has a drain of 55uA (selbuilt)
the 2019 has a drain of 27uA (djozz)
the 2020 has a drain of ~28uA (pol77)

MascaratumB
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I believe that those values are due to the different working of the drivers.

The one of the 2020 version is to be used along with a tailswitch closes the circuit energy, hence preventing the drain.

The 2012 and 2019 will probably act more like an e-switch that doesn’t completely shut down the energy circulation.

So, in my head, the 2020 driver version is probably projected differently than the ones of the previous versions, which are supposed to reduce the drain once the rotary ring acts as the switch itself.

Also in my head, it doesn’t seem to make much sense to use the 2020 version with the tailswitch ON and then only use the rotary ring.

It makes sense to dial a “level” through the rotary ring and then just turn the light ON/OFF, acting as a single mode light. Having a forward clicky switch is even better (for me), as it allows momentary on for the lowest modes without full clicking Big Smile

jon_slider
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the question has come up repeatedly from people wanting to know if they can use the 2020 model on standby

edit
turns out, thanks to a test by pol77, that the standby drain on 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 is the same, I dont know if there is working thermal protection in the 2020 as claimed

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jon_slider wrote:
I agree on all counts
however, the question has come up repeatedly from people wanting to know if they can use the 2020 model on standby, even if you and I agree that is not a good idea.

I dont know what advantage the higher power drain is driving.. maybe the thermal sensor

so far no one has confirmed that the thermal sensor actually does anything, other than increase standby drain Smile

the important result, for me, is that I should NOT put the new 2020 driver, into my 2012 RRT-01.. because it greatly increases parasitic drain

nor should I upgrade the 2012 driver in a TCR-1, to a 2020 Driver, because that is actually a Downgrade. Newer 2020 is NOT better, for non switch models of 2012 and 2019.


Yup, looking at those values, it surely would be a downgrade as the originals would be more suitable for the lights than the “new” one.

I am not familiar with the new lights, I was only absorbing and reinforcing (althought without data) what you wrote before.

It really doesn’t make sense using the light that way nor modding other lights with a different driver, be it due the thermal sensor or not Wink

Thanks for the explanation on this Wink

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and thank you for starting a wonderfully informative thread

My first reason to replace an RRT-01 driver, was because I destroyed one when disassembling the light incorrectly.

I have also intentionally upgraded from a 2012 driver to 2019 driver, in order to obtain the Strobe function

this is a good upgrade

the 2019 light also claims a 950 lumen output, whereas the 2012 driver claimed 600 lumens

that might lead some of us to hope that the 2019 driver will be brighter. Im not sure that is true, as I think the main difference is in the LED.. but I dont have solid data

but here are the driver options I have seen Jetbeam use:
2011, no strobe, driver label says RRT-01
2012, no strobe, driver label says Eye10
2012, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10 (serial number on body is different format)
2019, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10
2020, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10
2020, yes strobe, unverified thermal protection, driver label says RRT-01

driver feature progression
original 20212 rrt-01, no strobe
2019 model, yes strobe, possible higher output
2020 model, yes strobe, plus claimed thermal protection

jon_slider
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I just ordered a couple of spare 2019 RRT-01 drivers.

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Where did you buy the drivers?

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Here is the partslist for a 2012 RRT-01 mod
includes driver source, and reflector source thanks to moderator007

more discussion about the 2019 driver

eyecandy thanks to Geuzzz:

Geuzzz
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Thanks for reminding me Jon.
I still have a nib 2012 version that I want to mod into a more throwy light. 2700k sst-20, reflector mod and 2019 driver.
Time to order some parts.

jon_slider
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your mods are an inspiration:

Geuzzz wrote:
I put a 20mm “convoy” tir lens in my 2019 rrt-01. Very easy drop-in only a fat oring is needed under the bezel ring to compensate a smal height difference.

if you get a chance to offer the links to the lens and O ring you used, would be appreciated

a beamshot on a wall would be welcome too Beer

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The oring was just a fat +-20mm one out of my junk parts box. IIRC I used this ‘‘convoy’‘ lens:

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1577614278.html?spm=a2g0z.12010612.814835...

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