Sofirn SP10B - Anyone?

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Pete7874
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How do you get 10% off?

Ag76
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Pete7874 wrote:
How do you get 10% off?

There was a 10% off coupon earlier in this thread, but I just tried it and it doesn’t look valid anymore….unless there’s a new one somewhere?
MascaratumB
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Pete7874 wrote:
How do you get 10% off?

This is an official thread of Sofirn where Tracy posts some codes, for the Amazon Store! Please check the 1st post Wink
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54768

I don’t know if they are still active or if the prices is lower than the one in AliExpress, but worths a try Wink

pellidon
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Amazon had a package deal the last week of December where I picked up this light, a Sofirn SF31, 18650 and USB charger for $16 but that deal has passed. Always good to look at the bottom of the main description for offers like that. I almost missed it.

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MascaratumB wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
How do you get 10% off?

This is an official thread of Sofirn where Tracy posts some codes, for the Amazon Store! Please check the 1st post Wink
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54768


Yes, all those SP10B codes have expired on 12/31/17, as per that 1st post. Smile

That is why I was asking if maybe there was a new one that I had missed. Smile

MascaratumB
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Pete7874 wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
How do you get 10% off?

This is an official thread of Sofirn where Tracy posts some codes, for the Amazon Store! Please check the 1st post Wink
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54768


Yes, all those SP10B codes have expired on 12/31/17, as per that 1st post. Smile

That is why I was asking if maybe there was a new one that I had missed. Smile

Ohhh, sorry Facepalm
I really need to double-check the information Facepalm

Hum, I guess you can always ask Tracy for a coupon for those Wink Maybe on that thread it will be better, once it is their “official” thread Wink

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Pete7874 wrote:
Yes, all those SP10B codes have expired on 12/31/17, as per that 1st post. Smile

Aaah, fooey.

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patmurris
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I received from AE the blue SP10B a couple days ago – the black was out of stock.

Very nice AA/14500 light with side switch for the price! Very bright too. From what i can measure off a ceiling bounce, it is a tad brighter then UT01 and Mi7 and it is noticeable in real use. I also like the beam.

The only annoyance is the UI and mode spacing. Although i do have a number of lights with the ‘long press’ for on/off, i still don’t like it much. I can get used to it if i use one of those lights on a regular basis but each time i pick one at random i struggle to turn it on and off.

The other issue is the gap between what amounts to a very low moon mode and a rather bright mid mode. There should be a ‘regular’ low mode in between.

Overall a very good value 14500 light.
Well done Sofirn! Thumbs Up

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I“m guessing the black SP10B run out of stock during the flash sale. I think their SP10A which comes in black is now being sold as the black SP10B. They updated the SP10A with the newer driver so it is practically the same light.

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Jaded wrote:
I think their SP10A which comes in black is now being sold as the black SP10B. They updated the SP10A with the newer driver so it is practically the same light.

I guess now the SP10A is now the black version an the SP10B the blue and red versions! Both having the “old” black SP10B driver (ML-L-M >> H / >>> Strobe / >>>> Lockout).

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Hey, did anyone ever measure parasitic drain in the A and/or B?

Reason I’m asking is that I was carrying both, one with an eneloop and the other with an LFP cell, and both were dead dead dead after 1 day. The LFP might be suspect, as my LK202 “charged” it in minutes right out of the wrap, and after dead also “charged” it in just a few minutes. Even resetting it and forcing the LK to think it’s a Li-ion cell (3.7V vs 3.2V), it just charged a minute or so more. Odd.

Still, to kill an eneloop which is now charging pretty much from 0, seems really odd. Don’t think both got accidentally turned on in my bag and thus ran down completely, but…

I’m going to run both through some alkaleaks and hope they don’t do what they’re (in)famous for. After that, some more tests (if I can find where I put my meter last… Sick ).

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MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
Hey, did anyone ever measure parasitic drain in the A and/or B?

Reason I’m asking is that I was carrying both, one with an eneloop and the other with an LFP cell, and both were dead dead dead after 1 day. The LFP might be suspect, as my LK202 “charged” it in minutes right out of the wrap, and after dead also “charged” it in just a few minutes. Even resetting it and forcing the LK to think it’s a Li-ion cell (3.7V vs 3.2V), it just charged a minute or so more. Odd.

Still, to kill an eneloop which is now charging pretty much from 0, seems really odd. Don’t think both got accidentally turned on in my bag and thus ran down completely, but…

I’m going to run both through some alkaleaks and hope they don’t do what they’re (in)famous for. After that, some more tests (if I can find where I put my meter last… Sick ).

Didn’t measure, as I don’t have means to do so! But mine (SP10B) is “stopped” with a Sofirn 14500 inside (with some use), all threads tightened up and it works fine! No major drain, at least not like yours!

Lightbringer, I don’t know if that may have something to do with this case, but at least the SP10B manual doesn’t refer any “compatibility” with Ni-MH or LiFePO cells. Not sure if that is just a way to protect those types of cells once it only has Low Voltage Protection for Li-Ion cells.

Hope your lights are not “faulty” Sad

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Wellp, my eneloop is still charging, so it definitely was drained dry.

The LFP “charged” quickly and is holding 3.4V or so.

It’d defeat the purpose to do a TCLO if I want to see how it’d hold up in practice, but it’d stop an accidental turn-on in a bag or pocket.

Only thing I can think of is that an LFP under load might look like a depleted Li-ion. But 3.2V? Awfully high value to lock-out…

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Lightbringer
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No idea…

DMM’s reading a rather bouncy 20µA-40µA, and that’s it. Not likely to drain anything so fast. eneloop took a long while to charge from essentially 0, so maybe the switch just got bumped on in my bag/pocket (forgot which I was carrying where). Both LFPs I’m playing with charged to and are holding 3.35V, and after intentionally burning ‘em down maybe 5min on H in both lights (A and B).

Think actual TCLO is safest, ‘though the B has its soft LO.

Will just keep playing with ‘em…

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Lightbringer
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Do have to say, even though I liked the A quite a bit, the B kinda blows it away. Doubleclick to turbo, real firefly mode, soft LO, and a much nicer tint (nowhere near as yellow-green).

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MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
Do have to say, even though I liked the A quite a bit, the B kinda blows it away. Doubleclick to turbo, real firefly mode, soft LO, and a much nicer tint (nowhere near as yellow-green).

Hum, don’t know, but that may have happened, switching it on inside the pocket!
I know this may sound weird, but perhaps you need to try one more time with the exact same sets, to check if there was a anomalous drain or to see if there was an accidental turn ON.

Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again. I do that with the Manker E11, Olight S1R, Emisar D4, Sofirn SP10B.
In that way, tailclickies are better Big Smile

But I do agree, the SP10B is Love !
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint Smile

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MascaratumB wrote:
Hum, don’t know, but that may have happened, switching it on inside the pocket!

That’s my guess.

MascaratumB wrote:
I know this may sound weird, but perhaps you need to try one more time with the exact same sets, to check if there was a anomalous drain or to see if there was an accidental turn ON.

I was going to leave them home, but not LOed, to see if there was any kind of drain. But with both the A and B only sipping ~30µA, I doubt they’re to blame. Probably just turned on accidentally, and drained ‘em dry.

MascaratumB wrote:
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again.

And people piss’n‘moan about twisties… Big Smile

MascaratumB wrote:
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint Smile

Not the B, which is a nice non-green 5500K-6000K if I had to guess. The A, though, is kinda horribly yellow-green. Doesn’t seem like it at first, but when I got 2 of ‘em side-by-side shining on the ceiling… gah!

I’d say the A is about on par with the F1 and Jet-I/-II as far as greeniness.

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pennzy
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The brightness of my B is not far behind my S2+ with a 14500 . Mine holds charge in pocket but I glued a washer around the button . What is going on now with the Black A , red and blue B thing going on ? Is the A the same as the B now ?

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pennzy wrote:
What is going on now with the Black A , red and blue B thing going on ? Is the A the same as the B now ?

Mine’s a first-edition A, but the latest As seem to have the same UI as the Bs, from what I heard. I don’t have any, so can’t attest to that personally.

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Lightbringer wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again.

And people piss’n‘moan about twisties… Big Smile

I don’t have twisties, but that is a different situation Wink A twisty may turn ON on the pocket more easily than a side switch light with loosen threads Silly Unless you twist the twisty so much that you have to tight it up like half the threads’ length Wink

Lightbringer wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint Smile

Not the B, which is a nice non-green 5500K-6000K if I had to guess. The A, though, is kinda horribly yellow-green. Doesn’t seem like it at first, but when I got 2 of ‘em side-by-side shining on the ceiling… gah!

I’d say the A is about on par with the F1 and Jet-I/-II as far as greeniness.

The tint of the SP10B is better than both the SF14 and the SP10A (“older” model). I wouldn’t make that comparison as mine was more NW that CW. But it had a slight of green for sure!!

Lightbringer wrote:
pennzy wrote:
What is going on now with the Black A , red and blue B thing going on ? Is the A the same as the B now ?

Mine’s a first-edition A, but the latest As seem to have the same UI as the Bs, from what I heard. I don’t have any, so can’t attest to that personally.

What seems to be happening is that the SP10Bs are the blue and red versions of the “new” SP10A, that has now the same UI as the former black/red/blue SP10B.
So, the SP10A seems to no longer have the 3 + 1 modes. Instead it has 3 + Turbo + lockout Wink
In other words, SP10A and SP10B, being sold currently, are the same light with different host colour.

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Let me confuse you a little further Silly My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver, with SP10B UI. So yes, I think MascaratumB is correct. All models have been updated to the new UI.

Bug

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Dusty wrote:
Let me confuse you a little further Silly My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver, with SP10B UI. So yes, I think MascaratumB is correct. All models have been updated to the new UI.

Big Smile Big Smile Beer

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MascaratumB wrote:
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again.
Lightbringer wrote:
And people piss’n‘moan about twisties… Big Smile
MascaratumB wrote:
I don’t have twisties, but that is a different situation Wink A twisty may turn ON on the pocket more easily than a side switch light with loosen threads Silly Unless you twist the twisty so much that you have to tight it up like half the threads’ length Wink

Wellp, I never (as in ever ever ever) had a twisty turn on either in my pocket or bag. I give it at most a ½-turn tops, usually less, like a ¼-turn. Most notable is my Jet-II, never had it turn on accidentally.

I’ve had side-clickies and tail-clickies both turn on accidentally. Even my ’502 turned into a curling-iron in its holster on my belt when the arm of my chair accidentally bapped it on when I was sitting down.

MascaratumB wrote:
What seems to be happening is that the SP10Bs are the blue and red versions of the “new” SP10A, that has now the same UI as the former black/red/blue SP10B.

So, the SP10A seems to no longer have the 3 + 1 modes. Instead it has 3 + Turbo + lockout Wink

In other words, SP10A and SP10B, being sold currently, are the same light with different host colour.

It’s hard for me to keep up without a scorecard, so I just shrug it off.

Only thing that bugs me is that you get an “X”, but have zero idea if it’s the old X with the green-tinted XP-G3, or the mid-level X that has the notorious loose driver ring but newer XP-L2, or the newer X that fixes the ring issue and has the 4-levels instead of 3-levels UI, or the newest X that has the fixed UI with moonlight and lockout, not counting the newest version that you can get with the Nichia option.

Wtf?!?

So next time GB has an “X” on a flash sale for some unbelievable price, you have no clue from the description which one it is, whether it’s one of the older ones you’d rather avoid even if it were sold at half-price, or one of the newest ones which you’d jump on because it’s the lowest price you’ve ever seen it at.

That’s why I wish flashlight mfrs would change the model numbers to reflect all the changes, so you know which UI it has, which emitter it has, etc. Like version numbers.

Otherwise, you can get a “brand new” X, and it can still be the crappy old version no one wants. Or it could be the older good version before something changed which made the newer versions suck. Etc.

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Uh, oh… just ended up ordering a red SP10B. You guys are a bad influence! Smile

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Dusty wrote:
Let me confuse you a little further Silly My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver,

Is it easy to identify which driver you have, without having to completely disassemble the light?
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Old A driver has L>M>H with hidden strobe, newer B (that apparently they are replacing the old As with) has ML>L>M>H with hidden strobe and lockout function, I believe

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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Persechini wrote:
Old A driver has L>M>H with hidden strobe, newer B (that apparently they are replacing the old As with) has ML>L>M>H with hidden strobe and lockout function, I believe

No, I understand that. But that’s just UI/firmware. But now Sofirn has applied the new UI/firmware to the old A driver as well, so you would not be able to tell just by looking at the UI.
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They are the same driver with different software, if your flashlight works like a B, it has the B software regardless of the print in the flashlight. Unless you mean how to identify it on the listing when you intend to buy one, then I can only assume you have to believe the description/reviews, or shoot the store a message

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My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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Persechini wrote:
They are the same driver with different software, if your flashlight works like a B, it has the B software regardless of the print in the flashlight.

Based on what was mentioned earlier in this thread, the tint is different between A and B, despite firmware/UI now being the same, unless I misunderstood. That is why I was asking.
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Pete7874 wrote:
Dusty wrote:
Let me confuse you a little further Silly My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver,
Is it easy to identify which driver you have, without having to completely disassemble the light?

It is silk-screened to the component side of the driver, so you would have to disassemble it.

Bug

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