hmm.. what about thermal regulation? does that work properly for you?
.
My 20W COB starts at around 26 watts and comes down to 11 watts after 2 minutes of improper heatsink. With correct application of thermal paste and appropriate heatsink my COB maintains it’s wattage at around 18 watts when sink temperature is about ~68°C.
—
and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...
2) it runs on AC voltage. there are additional expenses to build something useful which complies with building & electric codes. Especially if used in the garage or outside.
Exactly. Standard light bulb fixtures using new LED bulbs are going to be way more efficient, they may have better tint and are upgradeable. When something fails, just screw out a bulb and replace with another $2 unit. As an added benefit, this setup would be legal and preferred by insurance companies all over the world.
If you did this in 2010 and want to upgrade now, it’s $ € 1-5 per bulb and 2 minutes per garage, and wow: you get way better tint and/or efficiency. Too little power? Just switch from 5 watts per bulb to 10 per bulb.
Want IoT automatic lights? Variable color porn lights? Guess you had the bulbs wired in several groups if you were not really dumb. Yeah, easy to do in that case.
Having a bunch of screw-in bulb fixtures professionally installed is still cheaper than the traditional solution with a couple of big fluorescent tubes. Even doing it DIY using plugged in fixtures is not that expensive. Why not?
I don’t understand why someone would even consider those bad COB assemblies for an illegal DIY garage lighting job. Even if you don’t care about electrical safety, what about a house fire? Just don’t. Active cooling? Give me a break. Can’t be serious.
Light strips driven by a good certified driver are another story. If that is what is needed, great. It works, and it’s not a bomb like those DX/BG/AE/eB traps wired by Bubba. May not be even close to the efficiency of cheap IKEA bulbs in Edison fixtures, but why worry? Power is cheap, and indirect lighting is harder to implement than direct light with regular bulbs anyway.
Keisari,
You are right, no sense in using these modules. I have been doing just as you suggest for quite some time now. I have posted several of my efforts. Just over the weekend I did another.
I was in Lowes the other day and they had 2 – 8 foot HO florescent fixtures for sale for just $3 each! They were slightly damaged, but I didn’t care. I only wanted the “U” channel, so I gutted one and installed 2 bathroom fixtures with 8 sockets each inside of it. They fit perfectly.
16 bulbs at 1600 lumens each is 25,600 lumen!
This picture does NOT show how bright this setup really is, believe me!
Nice light fixture dchomak! I’ve wanted to do that, but haven’t been able to find a good deal here.
Recently I changed my wireless switch for my supplemental ceiling lights to a wifi switch. It’s not as convenient to turn on, but I love that I can set a timer to turn them off. Lots of other options too like fixed schedules, or triggers based on weather, sunset/sunrise and lots of other things.
Vegas, do you have a picture of how you mounted the power supply on the wall? I’m very interested in tackling a project like this since my garage is standard like yours. Currently, I have a motion activated light on my garage door opener and then two crappy T5 lights that look horrible. I do a lot of projects and work cars at night in the garage and end up using a head lamp.
Standard light bulb fixtures using new LED bulbs are going to be way more efficient
Depends on how you define efficiency. If giving more lumens per watt is efficiency then a standard LED light bulb is not any more efficient than a COB.
Keisari wrote:
…As an added benefit, this setup would be legal and preferred by insurance companies all over the world.
..Light strips driven by a good certified driver are another story.
Tell me again how are these legal and preferred by insurance companies??
Keisari wrote:
It works, and it’s not a bomb like those DX/BG/AE/eB traps wired by Bubba.
Which is why we buy them based on trusted reviews.
Keisari wrote:
indirect lighting is harder to implement than direct light with regular bulbs anyway.
Remember you’re saying this on a flashlight enthusiasts forum.
Keisari wrote:
May not be even close to the efficiency of cheap IKEA bulbs in Edison fixtures
Keisari wrote:
Active cooling? Give me a break. Can’t be serious.
Actually this 13W Ikea LED light bulb is doing a terrible job in heat dissipation with it’s measly sized heat sink.
To add insult to injury this light bulb has no Thermal regulation like the one used in that COB.
—
and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...
humm.. the purpose of garage lighting is to provide bright illumination to do the maintenance work, apart from ceiling light, the work efficiency is enhanced if we can have the portable flood light to light up the bottom of the cars. however, when i look at amazon, there are many types of luminary such as halogen, fluorescent and led lights for garage.
fluorescent tube and halogen garage flood light are less expensive, however, led is much more durable and bright.. every coin has its two sides
Where did you quote me ever saying this? Looks like you used my username to post spam! Not cool! Users – do not click the link in that quote!
, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
I finally had the chance to see the 30W IC COBs in service in the bunk rooms at a lodge at my local scout camp. I gave the ranger ten of them, all mounted on heat sinks. I think there are about 10 bunk beds in each bunk room and there were two overhead lights using two incandescent bulbs each. Not sure if they were 100W each or 60W but the two COBs give as much light as the previous bulbs did. The ranger is happy because he will not have to climb a 20 foot ladder to reach the higher of the two lights for a long time.
When I posted this originally, the intent was to provide a way to light a two car garage with adequate, even lighting. Some of you have special uses such as inspecting car finishes, or working under the vehicle. For most people this setup will give decent lighting at a cheap price and still be far better than what the builder would supply without expensive upgrades.
hmm.. what about thermal regulation? does that work properly for you?
.
My 20W COB starts at around 26 watts and comes down to 11 watts after 2 minutes of improper heatsink. With correct application of thermal paste and appropriate heatsink my COB maintains it’s wattage at around 18 watts when sink temperature is about ~68°C.
and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...
Exactly. Standard light bulb fixtures using new LED bulbs are going to be way more efficient, they may have better tint and are upgradeable. When something fails, just screw out a bulb and replace with another $2 unit. As an added benefit, this setup would be legal and preferred by insurance companies all over the world.
If you did this in 2010 and want to upgrade now, it’s $ € 1-5 per bulb and 2 minutes per garage, and wow: you get way better tint and/or efficiency. Too little power? Just switch from 5 watts per bulb to 10 per bulb.
Want IoT automatic lights? Variable color porn lights? Guess you had the bulbs wired in several groups if you were not really dumb. Yeah, easy to do in that case.
Having a bunch of screw-in bulb fixtures professionally installed is still cheaper than the traditional solution with a couple of big fluorescent tubes. Even doing it DIY using plugged in fixtures is not that expensive. Why not?
I don’t understand why someone would even consider those bad COB assemblies for an illegal DIY garage lighting job. Even if you don’t care about electrical safety, what about a house fire? Just don’t. Active cooling? Give me a break. Can’t be serious.
Light strips driven by a good certified driver are another story. If that is what is needed, great. It works, and it’s not a bomb like those DX/BG/AE/eB traps wired by Bubba. May not be even close to the efficiency of cheap IKEA bulbs in Edison fixtures, but why worry? Power is cheap, and indirect lighting is harder to implement than direct light with regular bulbs anyway.
Keisari,
You are right, no sense in using these modules. I have been doing just as you suggest for quite some time now. I have posted several of my efforts. Just over the weekend I did another.
I was in Lowes the other day and they had 2 – 8 foot HO florescent fixtures for sale for just $3 each! They were slightly damaged, but I didn’t care. I only wanted the “U” channel, so I gutted one and installed 2 bathroom fixtures with 8 sockets each inside of it. They fit perfectly.
16 bulbs at 1600 lumens each is 25,600 lumen!
This picture does NOT show how bright this setup really is, believe me!
Nice light fixture dchomak! I’ve wanted to do that, but haven’t been able to find a good deal here.
Recently I changed my wireless switch for my supplemental ceiling lights to a wifi switch. It’s not as convenient to turn on, but I love that I can set a timer to turn them off. Lots of other options too like fixed schedules, or triggers based on weather, sunset/sunrise and lots of other things.
The low mode should be lower.
Vegas, do you have a picture of how you mounted the power supply on the wall? I’m very interested in tackling a project like this since my garage is standard like yours. Currently, I have a motion activated light on my garage door opener and then two crappy T5 lights that look horrible. I do a lot of projects and work cars at night in the garage and end up using a head lamp.
Depends on how you define efficiency. If giving more lumens per watt is efficiency then a standard LED light bulb is not any more efficient than a COB.
Tell me again how are these legal and preferred by insurance companies??
Which is why we buy them based on trusted reviews.
Remember you’re saying this on a flashlight enthusiasts forum.
Actually this 13W Ikea LED light bulb is doing a terrible job in heat dissipation with it’s measly sized heat sink.
To add insult to injury this light bulb has no Thermal regulation like the one used in that COB.
and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...
Where did you quote me ever saying this? Looks like you used my username to post spam! Not cool! Users – do not click the link in that quote!
-Garry
My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques
, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding ForumNOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
I finally had the chance to see the 30W IC COBs in service in the bunk rooms at a lodge at my local scout camp. I gave the ranger ten of them, all mounted on heat sinks. I think there are about 10 bunk beds in each bunk room and there were two overhead lights using two incandescent bulbs each. Not sure if they were 100W each or 60W but the two COBs give as much light as the previous bulbs did. The ranger is happy because he will not have to climb a 20 foot ladder to reach the higher of the two lights for a long time.
When I posted this originally, the intent was to provide a way to light a two car garage with adequate, even lighting. Some of you have special uses such as inspecting car finishes, or working under the vehicle. For most people this setup will give decent lighting at a cheap price and still be far better than what the builder would supply without expensive upgrades.
Umm… welcome to BLF. Gotta say I’m curious – you just joined and your first post is to a 4+ year old thread? At least go introduce yourself!
Welcome to BLF Marsupelamy!!
Nice entrance, I like your style.
Enjoy yourself here.
Umm...
The guy is clearly a spammer/spambot.
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