Hey guys
Who can I contact if I want to buy just the piece where the BLF GT label is printed on? I have a GT70 and don’t like that name, especially with the GT4 coming soon. I’d much rather replace the piece with one from a GT. Then my collection of GT mini < GT < GT4, makes sense
You basically ignore the 2 fast blinks and then count the slower blinks. Then you only have about 2 seconds to do your first button press or else it moves on to the next setting. I recommend changing only one item at a time.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have tried to search these forums and also Google and Bing with no joy.
I purchased from original buy thread on these forums. Received around February 2018.
Batteries are fully charged
Button lights up and responds to presses properly (I think)
Going through the reset steps in the manual does seem to work as far as the flashes on the button are concerned but the LED just will not turn on.
Re-seated the end cap and head multiple times.
Battery Orientation is correct
Batteries are freshly charged and also close to brand new
Also tried different brand new batteries
NEVER dropped or physically mishandled
NEVER driven at full power for more than 2 to 3 minutes, typically 10-15 seconds at a time during dog walking.
Apologies if this has been addressed and I just suck at searching.
Thank you!
Hmm, sounds like either a wiring issue to the LED, a bad driver or a dead LED.
Can you see any black spots on the LED? or signs of damage?
You will need to remove the driver and see if there is any burn smell or signs of damage there. If not then next step is to test the LED, you can connect a 12v source (could use the carriers with some wire if needed) to the LED wires directly for a moment to see if it lights up. Only do it for a second since it will be driving it with too much power for extended use.
Also make sure polarity is correct, if put backwards it can fry the LED.
If the LED lights up directly then it is a driver issue, if the LED does not light up, then most likely a dead LED or possibly a short to the reflector. You will have to remove the head to do further testing.
Hmm, sounds like either a wiring issue to the LED, a bad driver or a dead LED.
Thanks for the prompt response
Quote:
Can you see any black spots on the LED? or signs of damage?
None. Yellow as can be. Clean, no signs of burn or other damage
Quote:
You will need to remove the driver and see if there is any burn smell or signs of damage there. If not then next step is to test the LED, you can connect a 12v source (could use the carriers with some wire if needed) to the LED wires directly for a moment to see if it lights up. Only do it for a second since it will be driving it with too much power for extended use.
Also make sure polarity is correct, if put backwards it can fry the LED.
No action I used both a bench power supply and the actual battery pack. The pack is putting out about 16V as measured with a multimeter.
Quote:
If the LED lights up directly then it is a driver issue, if the LED does not light up, then most likely a dead LED or possibly a short to the reflector. You will have to remove the head to do further testing.
Now, how to disassemble or replace the LED? Any guides? Or is there a warranty/repair service?
Hmm, sounds like either a wiring issue to the LED, a bad driver or a dead LED.
Thanks for the prompt response
Quote:
Can you see any black spots on the LED? or signs of damage?
None. Yellow as can be. Clean, no signs of burn or other damage
Quote:
You will need to remove the driver and see if there is any burn smell or signs of damage there. If not then next step is to test the LED, you can connect a 12v source (could use the carriers with some wire if needed) to the LED wires directly for a moment to see if it lights up. Only do it for a second since it will be driving it with too much power for extended use.
Also make sure polarity is correct, if put backwards it can fry the LED.
No action I used both a bench power supply and the actual battery pack. The pack is putting out about 16V as measured with a multimeter.
Quote:
If the LED lights up directly then it is a driver issue, if the LED does not light up, then most likely a dead LED or possibly a short to the reflector. You will have to remove the head to do further testing.
Now, how to disassemble or replace the LED? Any guides? Or is there a warranty/repair service?
Thanks again for the help
I think VOB had a video showing how to upgrade the GT to the GT70 but it could be applied to your situation as well.
Hardest part is opening the head, you need a strap wrench for that, after that it is a pretty basic LED swap.
I think Tom E is trustworthy and fairly close. He lives in Long Island NY. You might contact him about sending in the head to swap the led. I can’t say what he might charge or if he’s got the time to do it, but it’s worth asking.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Has anyone found an in-stock supply of XHP35.2 HI in flux bins greater than D4? I hope to find E2 flux bins or greater in 5000-6500K to reflow into my stock GT. Crees data sheets appear to be dated and they are notorious for not listing all available variations. I’ll probably settle for a D4 if nothing turns up. Mouser has plenty in stock and they are easy to deal with.
Still no listings showing for XHP70D-H0 variations (XHP70.3 HI). Id love to try one in a GT with a TA driver, assuming high flux bins once available. Cree’s data sheet looks promising.
I’ll probably cross post this in a few other threads to see if anything turns up…
This is the original GT thread. The GT70 thread is over here.
I have not heard of any GT70’s having glue added.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hey guys
Who can I contact if I want to buy just the piece where the BLF GT label is printed on? I have a GT70 and don’t like that name, especially with the GT4 coming soon. I’d much rather replace the piece with one from a GT. Then my collection of GT mini < GT < GT4, makes sense
Current Collection:
BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1;
BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A);
Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A);
Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4;
You are talking about the light engine?
Sadly I don’t think that you can get this piece by itself but you could try contacting lumintop and see what they have on hand.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
What font is used in the BLF GT logo? I am having a person’s name printed on the side and would like to use the same font.
The button led on my GT Micro is permanently off. How do I turn it back on?
This is the thread for the big GT light. The procedure is the same though. Here’s a video.
https://youtu.be/i8VPMEA5DSg
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks. Kind of tricky to get that timing just right.
Yeah, I’ve got a video that explains the blink system. https://youtu.be/xrwP3gG0I_A
You basically ignore the 2 fast blinks and then count the slower blinks. Then you only have about 2 seconds to do your first button press or else it moves on to the next setting. I recommend changing only one item at a time.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
My BLF GT is not turning on.
I have tried to search these forums and also Google and Bing with no joy.
Apologies if this has been addressed and I just suck at searching.
Thank you!
/manny
Hmm, sounds like either a wiring issue to the LED, a bad driver or a dead LED.
Can you see any black spots on the LED? or signs of damage?
You will need to remove the driver and see if there is any burn smell or signs of damage there. If not then next step is to test the LED, you can connect a 12v source (could use the carriers with some wire if needed) to the LED wires directly for a moment to see if it lights up. Only do it for a second since it will be driving it with too much power for extended use.
Also make sure polarity is correct, if put backwards it can fry the LED.
If the LED lights up directly then it is a driver issue, if the LED does not light up, then most likely a dead LED or possibly a short to the reflector. You will have to remove the head to do further testing.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks for the prompt response
None. Yellow as can be. Clean, no signs of burn or other damage
No action
I used both a bench power supply and the actual battery pack. The pack is putting out about 16V as measured with a multimeter.
Now, how to disassemble or replace the LED? Any guides? Or is there a warranty/repair service?
Thanks again for the help
/manny
I think VOB had a video showing how to upgrade the GT to the GT70 but it could be applied to your situation as well.
Hardest part is opening the head, you need a strap wrench for that, after that it is a pretty basic LED swap.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Ah, oh well. I think I’ll sell it as is then
I haven’t used a soldering iron or similar in over 20 years LOL.
Thank you once again.
/manny
lol, up to you, it is really pretty simple to swap the LED, lots of writes and videos showing how as well.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Wow, when I Google your location, I can see exactly where you live!
I'm not brave enough to be so specific, but it is cool and different.
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
There are enough BLF members in your area who are willing to help you out.
That’s actually a mine field. Proceed with caution, bad peeps ROTFL.
/manny
Oh wow… any tips on how to go about this? Sorry for the n00b questions.
/manny
I think Tom E is trustworthy and fairly close. He lives in Long Island NY. You might contact him about sending in the head to swap the led. I can’t say what he might charge or if he’s got the time to do it, but it’s worth asking.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thank you, kindly, Jason
/manny
Has anyone found an in-stock supply of XHP35.2 HI in flux bins greater than D4? I hope to find E2 flux bins or greater in 5000-6500K to reflow into my stock GT. Crees data sheets appear to be dated and they are notorious for not listing all available variations. I’ll probably settle for a D4 if nothing turns up. Mouser has plenty in stock and they are easy to deal with.
Still no listings showing for XHP70D-H0 variations (XHP70.3 HI). Id love to try one in a GT with a TA driver, assuming high flux bins once available. Cree’s data sheet looks promising.
I’ll probably cross post this in a few other threads to see if anything turns up…
Review: 150 Million Candlepower Military Xenon Arc Battlefield Illuminator (AN/VSS-3A)
My new collection of 50+ Chinese knives
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