Thanks, with your help I was able to get out the driver. I looked at the pcb but don’t see anything weird, missing or damaged.
Is there something I can do myself (or with the hardware dudes at my work) to further ‘test / check’ my driver pcb?
No, just take close up pictures maybe.
You might have corrupt software or a defective component, none of which are visable.
On the other hand, a component might be lacking a little solder or there may be a little too much solder causing a bridge. Which could also cause your issues.
Did you fill out Neal’s form saying you have an issue? Since it seems the driver might be at fault, Neal/Lumintop can probably send you a new driver.
I don’t know exactly how their warranty procedures work.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
There is one thing you can do, you can check the voltage divider to see if it is outputting the correct voltage but I need to find a good picture of the GT driver so I can point out where that is.
I will try to look for one later when I have more time.
Are there any results / answers from Lumintop to the issues some members had? For example my 3Die LED?
I assume you have filled out the issue survey for the GT already? If not the link is in the OP.
I know of a few issues that have been taken care of so far but it is going much slower then I would like. I am hoping now that the shipments are on hold for a little bit Neal can focus on dealing with the issues.
As long as you have filled out the survey you are on the list of issues I will be tossing at Neal every chance I get until it is dealt with.
Question: what is the URL for the site we put the registered mail tracking number in to see the ETA?
Packageradar seems to be one of the better tracking sites. It’s currently giving me detailed information about every stop of the rail journey that my Lii-500 is making from China…
Packageradar didn’t seem to work for this tracking #.
It’s a 16 digit number with no letters, so I think it’s a canada post tracking number, cause that’s their style and I’m in Canada.
But I don’t get a status yet, for one of the following reasons:
The item is in transit, but we haven’t yet received it from the sender
The item is coming from another country and is not in Canada yet. Track it on the postal website of the originating country first.
Does anyone know what the internal resistance of the included cells should be? Currently charging the first two in my C2-6000 and it’s showing me 78 / 82 milliohms. To me, that seems quite a lot for high drain cells.
Does anyone know what the internal resistance of the included cells should be? Currently charging the first two in my C2-6000 and it’s showing me 78 / 82 milliohms. To me, that seems quite a lot for high drain cells.
Does anyone know what the internal resistance of the included cells should be? Currently charging the first two in my C2-6000 and it’s showing me 78 / 82 milliohms. To me, that seems quite a lot for high drain cells.
Any thoughts?
The include cells(samsung 35E) is not high drain
I see – that explains it, thanks. Not familiar with the 35E cells, and thought they were similar to 30Q’s – should have checked HKJ’s site for Infos! Now I can relax, knowing that I haven’t been sold duds!
Does anyone know what the internal resistance of the included cells should be? Currently charging the first two in my C2-6000 and it’s showing me 78 / 82 milliohms. To me, that seems quite a lot for high drain cells.
Any thoughts?
The include cells(samsung 35E) is not high drain
I see – that explains it, thanks. Not familiar with the 35E cells, and thought they were similar to 30Q’s – should have checked HKJ’s site for Infos! Now I can relax, knowing that I haven’t been sold duds!
The GT isn’t a high drain light. With 4 cells in it, at most each cell pulls 3 amps. With 8 cells each one only pulls 1.5 amps at most.
So it was decided that a higher capacity cell (3500mah) would be a better match for this light compared to a high drain cell like the 30Q (3000mah). You get more run time in total.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The GT isn’t a high drain light. With 4 cells in it, at most each cell pulls 3 amps. With 8 cells each one only pulls 1.5 amps at most.
So it was decided that a higher capacity cell (3500mah) would be a better match for this light compared to a high drain cell like the 30Q (3000mah). You get more run time in total.
I do get that the light isn’t going to draw a lot of current, with only a single XHP35. But in a previous thread (about the Emisar D1?) it was mentioned that although high drain cells weren’t required, they were nevertheless recommended, due to the lower voltage sag. But with only 1.5A drawn from each cell, I guess we’ve probably entered the area where even voltage sag becomes negligible, if I understand correctly?
The GT isn’t a high drain light. With 4 cells in it, at most each cell pulls 3 amps. With 8 cells each one only pulls 1.5 amps at most.
So it was decided that a higher capacity cell (3500mah) would be a better match for this light compared to a high drain cell like the 30Q (3000mah). You get more run time in total.
I do get that the light isn’t going to draw a lot of current, with only a single XHP35. But in a previous thread (about the Emisar D1?) it was mentioned that although high drain cells weren’t required, they were nevertheless recommended, due to the lower voltage sag. But with only 1.5A drawn from each cell, I guess we’ve probably entered the area where even voltage sag becomes negligible, if I understand correctly?
The GT was tested with 30Q and Panasonic 3500mah cells (2A at the emitter). Which should be pretty close to the 35E cells.
You’ll note that with the 30Q it stays in regulation a bit longer due to less voltage sag, but the 3500 cell has longer run time. So it’s a bit of a tradeoff.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Anyone else found the 30Q batteries to be a bit too loose in the carriers?
I assume you mean the springs are not compressed enough to keep the battery from wiggling side to side?
This is normal. The carriers are designed for both short and long “protected” cells. So that is about 65mm to 71mm. With a short cell the spring is only partially compressed.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
What about the swap of the original led to the CFT-90 one?
I wait until some other guy tries this,so as to see if it is sensible to raise the high cost of the procession.
What about the swap of the original led to the CFT-90 one?
I wait until some other guy tries this so as to see if it is sensible to raise the high cost of the procession.
Vinh over at Skylumen is doing this swap. It has nothing to do with Lumintop or BLF.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The GT isn’t a high drain light. With 4 cells in it, at most each cell pulls 3 amps. With 8 cells each one only pulls 1.5 amps at most.
So it was decided that a higher capacity cell (3500mah) would be a better match for this light compared to a high drain cell like the 30Q (3000mah). You get more run time in total.
I do get that the light isn’t going to draw a lot of current, with only a single XHP35. But in a previous thread (about the Emisar D1?) it was mentioned that although high drain cells weren’t required, they were nevertheless recommended, due to the lower voltage sag. But with only 1.5A drawn from each cell, I guess we’ve probably entered the area where even voltage sag becomes negligible, if I understand correctly?
The GT was tested with 30Q and Panasonic 3500mah cells (2A at the emitter). Which should be pretty close to the 35E cells.
You’ll note that with the 30Q it stays in regulation a bit longer due to less voltage sag, but the 3500 cell has longer run time. So it’s a bit of a tradeoff.
If you can check my understanding, I would really appreciate it. I do not understand this stuff too well. Looking at this chart, I get the impression the BLFGT does not have to step down to avoid overheating. It looks like it can run at max output as long as the batteries can run. Is this partly correct?
Looking at this chart, I get the impression the BLF GT does not have to step down to avoid overheating. It looks like it can run at max output as long as the batteries can run. Is this partly correct?
It does not overheat. It will step down if you add heat to it like with a blow torch, but with just the emitter, it should not get hot enough to step down.
At 2.5A, the xhp35 only puts out about 36 watts and the flashlight body is massive with lots of surface area.
The general rule of thumb with really big lights like this is that they can usually sustain about 4k to 5k lumen continously. Some can do 6k and I think the best is the Imalent DX80 at about 7k lumen continously. Any higher than that you’ll need to either step down the power or add active cooling.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I am sorry if I should have seen this elsewhere, but has an an XHP70.2 been run in a GT host yet? I am curious about the candella/throw figures.
Also, am I correct in understand the gt with the XHP35 is the strongest thrower in a hand-held light? Hummm, I guess Vinh can put a new type of LED in that has a smaller diameter making the whole throw process more efficient.
I am picturing Earth with 850 BLF GTs, imagining that apart from maybe a few dozen custom built exceptions, those 850, soon to be 1500, BLFGT lights are the most powerful hand-held throwers ever built. To me, that is so awesome, with a small caveat. The caveat is: it is awesome if true!
I am sorry if I should have seen this elsewhere, but has an an XHP70.2 been run in a GT host yet? I am curious about the candella/throw figures.
Also, am I correct in understand the gt with the XHP35 is the strongest thrower in a hand-held light? Hummm, I guess Vinh can put a new type of LED in that has a smaller diameter making the whole throw process more efficient.
I am picturing Earth with 850 BLF GTs, imagining that apart from maybe a few dozen custom built exceptions, those 850, soon to be 1500, BLFGT lights are the most powerful hand-held throwers ever built. To me, that is so awesome, with a small caveat. The caveat is: it is awesome if true!
Is it true?
Yes, I have 2 xhp70.2 GT’s now. The first one I built with a modded stock driver a few months ago. I tested it at over 1300m of throw with the dome on and ~1600m of throw with the dome sliced off.
Lumens were around ~7000-7500.
The GT is the furthest throwing production LED reflector light in the world right now. With another LED it can throw further but at the cost of something else, either lumens and spot size or cash.
I just realized that the battery carriers are protected against flat top cells, and even my solder-blob-top cells don’t reach far enough to make contact.
It’s 2 AM and I’m far too tired to solder the carriers or more cells.
I will say the BLF GT is short compared to the TRJ-19 and TRJ-20, but the head is HUGE.
I need a handle for this thing, I was starting to get a cramped hand holding for a short bit. That said, I wish I could get an extended tube and use 3x battery carriers!
My GT arrived today. I am making a video of it performance on urban targets, such as the major league baseball stadium a few blocks from where I live.
Everything about my light is perfect. I read something a few months ago about the clicking sound in the glass from thermal expansion and contraction. I don’t remember if that is a potential problem, such as cracking the lens.
No, just take close up pictures maybe.
You might have corrupt software or a defective component, none of which are visable.
On the other hand, a component might be lacking a little solder or there may be a little too much solder causing a bridge. Which could also cause your issues.
Did you fill out Neal’s form saying you have an issue? Since it seems the driver might be at fault, Neal/Lumintop can probably send you a new driver.
I don’t know exactly how their warranty procedures work.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Maybe add this to the OP or post 2?
Could be handy
The Eneloop 2005-2020 info thread
Helo TA,
Are there any results / answers from Lumintop to the issues some members had? For example my 3Die LED?
There is one thing you can do, you can check the voltage divider to see if it is outputting the correct voltage but I need to find a good picture of the GT driver so I can point out where that is.
I will try to look for one later when I have more time.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I assume you have filled out the issue survey for the GT already? If not the link is in the OP.
I know of a few issues that have been taken care of so far but it is going much slower then I would like. I am hoping now that the shipments are on hold for a little bit Neal can focus on dealing with the issues.
As long as you have filled out the survey you are on the list of issues I will be tossing at Neal every chance I get until it is dealt with.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Question: what is the URL for the site we put the registered mail tracking number in to see the ETA?
TODO List:
Acquire more parts.
Devise cheap way to make TIRs.
Rub some bacon on it.
Finish something that I
Packageradar seems to be one of the better tracking sites. It’s currently giving me detailed information about every stop of the rail journey that my Lii-500 is making from China…
Packageradar didn’t seem to work for this tracking #.
It’s a 16 digit number with no letters, so I think it’s a canada post tracking number, cause that’s their style and I’m in Canada.
But I don’t get a status yet, for one of the following reasons:
So a bit more waiting
TODO List:
Acquire more parts.
Devise cheap way to make TIRs.
Rub some bacon on it.
Finish something that I
Got my GT this morning. Thanks Guys.
Hardusvd70
My tracking number has cleared Canadian customs and has now updated Expected delivery to 2018/03/29! Yay!
TODO List:
Acquire more parts.
Devise cheap way to make TIRs.
Rub some bacon on it.
Finish something that I
I used the contact form (via the site of M4D M4X) but did not receive a reply yet from Neal. I will try to contact Lumintop directly…
Does anyone know what the internal resistance of the included cells should be? Currently charging the first two in my C2-6000 and it’s showing me 78 / 82 milliohms. To me, that seems quite a lot for high drain cells.
Any thoughts?
The include cells(samsung 35E) is not high drain
Forgot my pen
I see – that explains it, thanks. Not familiar with the 35E cells, and thought they were similar to 30Q’s – should have checked HKJ’s site for Infos! Now I can relax, knowing that I haven’t been sold duds!
The GT isn’t a high drain light. With 4 cells in it, at most each cell pulls 3 amps. With 8 cells each one only pulls 1.5 amps at most.
So it was decided that a higher capacity cell (3500mah) would be a better match for this light compared to a high drain cell like the 30Q (3000mah). You get more run time in total.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I do get that the light isn’t going to draw a lot of current, with only a single XHP35. But in a previous thread (about the Emisar D1?) it was mentioned that although high drain cells weren’t required, they were nevertheless recommended, due to the lower voltage sag. But with only 1.5A drawn from each cell, I guess we’ve probably entered the area where even voltage sag becomes negligible, if I understand correctly?
The GT was tested with 30Q and Panasonic 3500mah cells (2A at the emitter). Which should be pretty close to the 35E cells.
You’ll note that with the 30Q it stays in regulation a bit longer due to less voltage sag, but the 3500 cell has longer run time. So it’s a bit of a tradeoff.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Anyone else found the 30Q batteries to be a bit too loose in the carriers?
I assume you mean the springs are not compressed enough to keep the battery from wiggling side to side?
This is normal. The carriers are designed for both short and long “protected” cells. So that is about 65mm to 71mm. With a short cell the spring is only partially compressed.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
What about the swap of the original led to the CFT-90 one?
I wait until some other guy tries this,so as to see if it is sensible to raise the high cost of the procession.
Vinh over at Skylumen is doing this swap. It has nothing to do with Lumintop or BLF.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Indeed it is a nice mod but not practical for production. So it will be left to modders to do it.
Besides there needs to be SOMETHING to mod or it would not be a BLF light lol.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
If you can check my understanding, I would really appreciate it. I do not understand this stuff too well. Looking at this chart, I get the impression the BLFGT does not have to step down to avoid overheating. It looks like it can run at max output as long as the batteries can run. Is this partly correct?
It does not overheat. It will step down if you add heat to it like with a blow torch, but with just the emitter, it should not get hot enough to step down.
At 2.5A, the xhp35 only puts out about 36 watts and the flashlight body is massive with lots of surface area.
The general rule of thumb with really big lights like this is that they can usually sustain about 4k to 5k lumen continously. Some can do 6k and I think the best is the Imalent DX80 at about 7k lumen continously. Any higher than that you’ll need to either step down the power or add active cooling.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Correct, even under extended loads it only gets up to around ~55-60c IIRC, which is still considered “safe”.
The thermal protection is set from the factory at around 65-70c I think.
Now an XHP70.2 is another story, that will need a thermal stepdown but it still lasts a long time before overheating.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thank you for the information, much appreciated.
I am sorry if I should have seen this elsewhere, but has an an XHP70.2 been run in a GT host yet? I am curious about the candella/throw figures.
Also, am I correct in understand the gt with the XHP35 is the strongest thrower in a hand-held light? Hummm, I guess Vinh can put a new type of LED in that has a smaller diameter making the whole throw process more efficient.
I am picturing Earth with 850 BLF GTs, imagining that apart from maybe a few dozen custom built exceptions, those 850, soon to be 1500, BLFGT lights are the most powerful hand-held throwers ever built. To me, that is so awesome, with a small caveat. The caveat is: it is awesome if true!
Is it true?
Yes, I have 2 xhp70.2 GT’s now. The first one I built with a modded stock driver a few months ago. I tested it at over 1300m of throw with the dome on and ~1600m of throw with the dome sliced off.
Lumens were around ~7000-7500.
The GT is the furthest throwing production LED reflector light in the world right now. With another LED it can throw further but at the cost of something else, either lumens and spot size or cash.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I just got my BLF GT in today and it’s now dark.
I just realized that the battery carriers are protected against flat top cells, and even my solder-blob-top cells don’t reach far enough to make contact.
It’s 2 AM and I’m far too tired to solder the carriers or more cells.
I will say the BLF GT is short compared to the TRJ-19 and TRJ-20, but the head is HUGE.
I need a handle for this thing, I was starting to get a cramped hand holding for a short bit. That said, I wish I could get an extended tube and use 3x battery carriers!
My GT arrived today. I am making a video of it performance on urban targets, such as the major league baseball stadium a few blocks from where I live.
Everything about my light is perfect. I read something a few months ago about the clicking sound in the glass from thermal expansion and contraction. I don’t remember if that is a potential problem, such as cracking the lens.
This light makes everyone in my house giggle.
OT: Out of curiosity, what can we expect from future LEDs? What could be the throw and lumen output of a BLF GT in 5 years?
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