Why don’t you just go for Luxeon V’s then? You will get close to 7000 lumens with the stock setup, you will get a much nicer beam, and around 2min turbo before it gets too hot. I did it with mine and it’s still a USABLE and very bright light! With spring bypasses you should in theory get 8000 lumens with a total of around 25Amps. And you will have more throw than the XHP50.2 emitters. To me that’s important because the Q8 already has a very usable spill.
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Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.
I am thinking about using the 3V XHP50.2 in the Q8. And to keep it safe I would use AWG 22 with 10-15cm length.
AWG22 should have 0,00548ohm resistance at 10cm length. For 48Amps, it would be a voltage drop of 0,26V.
What do you think about it? How long would you make the AWG22?
Is it necessary to bridge the battery springs to protect them from overheating and melting?
If your only concern is not burning out the LED’s then no worries, they can handle even full power with heavy wire as others have shown.
The only reason to use thinner wire is to reduce the output / heat. Although in this case it will not help much, it will still get stupid hot, stupid fast.
hi
can i run a xhp50.2 continuously at 5 ampere and 6 volts for many hours with a very very good heatsink?is that harmful for led lifespan?
As long as you are using a DTP copper mcpcb with a good heatsink that should be ok.
The lifespan will be reduced compared to running it at spec but we are talking 10,000’s of hours here, so doubtful you will notice and you can just replace it if it dies at that point.
What specs do you need?
Output is basically the same except the amperage is double. Plus this 3v version is more durable and can run fine on FET drivers.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
What specs do you need?
Output is basically the same except the amperage is double. Plus this 3v version is more durable and can run fine on FET drivers.
Yes it’s a great emitter I have a few running at 18ish amps on mosfet drivers was just looking for a chart didn’t know it was quite as simple as just doubling the amps
What specs do you need?
Output is basically the same except the amperage is double. Plus this 3v version is more durable and can run fine on FET drivers.
Yes it’s a great emitter I have a few running at 18ish amps on mosfet drivers was just looking for a chart didn’t know it was quite as simple as just doubling the amps
That is what they do in the datasheets, they only measure one voltage and then just calculate the specs for the others.
Why don’t you just go for Luxeon V’s then? You will get close to 7000 lumens with the stock setup, you will get a much nicer beam, and around 2min turbo before it gets too hot. I did it with mine and it’s still a USABLE and very bright light! With spring bypasses you should in theory get 8000 lumens with a total of around 25Amps. And you will have more throw than the XHP50.2 emitters. To me that’s important because the Q8 already has a very usable spill.
Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
If your only concern is not burning out the LED’s then no worries, they can handle even full power with heavy wire as others have shown.
The only reason to use thinner wire is to reduce the output / heat. Although in this case it will not help much, it will still get stupid hot, stupid fast.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
hi
can i run a xhp50.2 continuously at 5 ampere and 6 volts for many hours with a very very good heatsink?is that harmful for led lifespan?
As long as you are using a DTP copper mcpcb with a good heatsink that should be ok.
The lifespan will be reduced compared to running it at spec but we are talking 10,000’s of hours here, so doubtful you will notice and you can just replace it if it dies at that point.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Do you happen to have the 3v version specs ?
What specs do you need?
Output is basically the same except the amperage is double. Plus this 3v version is more durable and can run fine on FET drivers.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes it’s a great emitter I have a few running at 18ish amps on mosfet drivers was just looking for a chart didn’t know it was quite as simple as just doubling the amps
That is what they do in the datasheets, they only measure one voltage and then just calculate the specs for the others.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
That’s what I do as well. 12v version, cut amps in half.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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