[WTS] Remote switch tail DD board with FET

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KnHawke
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Lexel wrote:
KnHawke wrote:
I so want this for my builds! Makes me think that with the correct SMD Switch, might be possible to use a daughterboard within the tail of a convoy or whatever.

Not a big problem to make a switch board with no connections on the back
It’s still then a momentary on switch, which can’t be locked in like a forward clicky

Even better! Thumbs Up

Then the last problem is some sort of filler puck or something for the boot. I think.

edit:
nevermind! I just got my hands on some new convoy hosts and saw that the switch boot has a solid rubber “bullet” inside to help push the switch itself!

Yokiamy
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Lexel, are you off for holiday?
It’s been almost 4 weeks since you have been online!

mountainair26
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Yokiamy wrote:
Lexel, are you off for holiday? It’s been almost 4 weeks since you have been online!

I hope he’s alright and only taking a break for a little while. Anyone know if he’s doing OK and hopefully just stepped away from BLF for a bit?

Zappaman
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He sent me a few (more) FET tail switches here about four weeks ago. I think that is my fourth order in less than three years. Kick-ass little device we hunters LOVE. But he was busy and it took a bit to get them. I figured he was busy and I never worry about getting whatever he sell me. Thumbs Up

I hope he is well in any case!

ZappaMan

TimMc
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Zappaman wrote:
FET tail switches

How did you install them in your Sofirn C8G?

Zappaman
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You have to pull out the clicker on the tail cap, then use a pressure switch (from Sofirn) fitting it to the C8G’s tail cap. I actually haven’t modded a C8G yet, but I should do a pic post with that when I get to it. The pressure switch for a C8A is smaller but I think the C8G tail cap exit hole in the back will still fit it— I hope!

It was easy with the C8Fs in the 18650 (old, first revs) as it was the same threads/diameter on the C8A. You’ll have to just break it all open and then probably file down the WIDE (internal) side of the black plastic wire cover (that covers the back where the clicker was) to fit the FET. The trick is to get it down enough it snugs up with at least a turn of the retaining ring WITH the FET in place. You can also add a crimped wire for strain relief.

I know the above is a bit confusing but when you get it all apart it will make sense (again… I hope!) Thumbs Up

ZappaMan

Chatika vas Paus
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Are these boards only for single mode drivers? What if I would like to use it for a dual mode driver and Convoy remote switch (reverse + momentary)?

Zappaman
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These FET tail switches are just that- a switch (so just on/off) that is charged by a small watch battery that fit’s inside it flush with the circular board. Check Lexel’s posts for pics and you’ll understand the layout.

I use lights with drivers WHEN they have memory at high output. What I CAN tell you is BOTH the 21700 C8F and C8G models from Sorfirn ramp to the top of their available output (turbo). IF I leave it at turbo for a few seconds then hit the rear clicky- it turns off. THEN… when you click the light back on- it holds the memory of it’s last setting AND SO it comes on at THE SAME TURBO level- thus full power. The tail switch has no effect on the UI otherwise. You can turn it on in .2 seconds or hours later- it always comes on at TURBO. And as long as you don’t touch the side switch- you are good to go for a hunting rig with full power.

Some will just mount the light to a rail and use the thumb to turn it on- so no FET needed there. But I like my pressure switch under my pistol grip in front (under my knuckles) where a firm grip turns it on and it stays on until the shot gets off. I use velcro on both the top and bottom of the pressure switch to hold it in place (and hold the cord out of the way). Simple rig, works great for me Thumbs Up

ZappaMan

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