[Sale] Buck drivers 20, 21, 22, 24, 30mm L6, MF01, MF02/04(S), TN40S/42, BLF GT, Acebeam X45/65

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Lexel
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killingtime wrote:
Lexel wrote:
I always sell drivers with e-switch or tail clicky assembly depending on how it is ordered

Thanks for the reply.

If you sell a driver configured for a tail clicky, how does the UI change? There is no press and momentary hold option in this config, so … Narsil and Anduril require a hold facility to work to full spec. Do you just omit any press & hold functionality or replace it with something else?

There are very few lights that have an inner tube to move an e-switch to the tail like FW3A or many tactical Klarus lights

Mechanical tail switch means no e-switch firmware and the other way around

Bistro OTSM refuses to run on drivers with input capacitors like buck drivers have, so good old Bistro has to be used

MoreLumens
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If I get driver and swap TN40S’s leds to XHP35 Hi’s how much more lumens and throw I would get? Has anyone here done it?

goshdogit
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MoreLumens wrote:
If I get driver and swap TN40S’s leds to XHP35 Hi’s how much more lumens and throw I would get?
Vinh at SkyLumen has some specs comparing the stock XP-L HI to XHP35, but I’m not sure if that includes other changes to the driver.

Vinh is very friendly and I’m sure he’d verify the specs and answer any other questions if you email him.

Lexel
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goshdogit wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
If I get driver and swap TN40S’s leds to XHP35 Hi’s how much more lumens and throw I would get?
Vinh at SkyLumen has some specs comparing the stock XP-L HI to XHP35, but I’m not sure if that includes other changes to the driver.

Vinh is very friendly and I’m sure he’d verify the specs and answer any other questions if you email him.

The stock driver delivers 4A, so the XHP-35 are very mildly driven, for a mod with one of my drivers I would go to 7-8A
to have some overhead voltage to regulate and keep within my specs I know the driver starts to sound very unfriendly at about 11A

Lexel
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I build quite a lot of drivers this weekend, I am a bit puzzled have here a 42mm DD+N+1 drivers build but can’t find the responding PM who ordered them

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Good job Lexel we all Thank You for all you do for us Thumbs Up
Thanks to you my water cooled MT35 PLUS is Great, I am very Happy with its performance and the water pump functions perfectly that you took time and effort to add power from the driver. Big Smile I just got equipment to check the amperage.
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Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
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Lexel - wondering if you might consider a driver replacement for the Amutorch E3 and E3S. They are a uni-body light design with 2 screws to mount the driver, and virtually no space above the driver components. I'd say a FET+1 would work best. Even if you do a driver layout that could be ordered on OSHPark would be fine. If you don't have one, I could provide details and pics, though the screw holes might be tricky to get measured accurately.

Here's a pic:

Also has a driver mounted switch as shown. It's roughly in the 21-22 mm diameter size.

Lexel
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I could modify a design for a small time compensation payment
It should not be hard to measure the holes, the switch makes me more to think about as it needs to be placed precise

Tom E
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Probably true about the switch. I thought OSHPark has issues close to the edge, so not sure about using OSHPark for this one.

What are you thinking of? Just a board layout/OSHPark thing or a complete driver?

Lexel
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you can always make the OshPark PCB 0.35mm bigger and then manually grind it to copper edge

Tom E
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True, guess you don't have one of these lights? I would take two. Not sure if there's more interest. So are you think'n of just the board or complete driver?

Quadrupel
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Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

Lexel
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Quadrupel wrote:
Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

Drawing this is not the main problem, it’s getting a compatible or the same switch, so that the pressure point is the same

Quadrupel
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I guess

Tom E
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Iv'e bought a few variants of these switches before, believe from Mouser, DigiKey or Arrow.

Of course a good option is simply transfer the stock driver switch.

I've done several mods with these switches - yes, position is critical and also the size of the plunger varies, and the placement of the feet/contact points vary. For the feet/contact, usually they are close enough but sometimes they hang off a bit, needing some solder bridging. Also these type of switches all have a common weakness - the force applied to the switch can weaken the front solder, pushing the switch or tilting it backwards. The solder mask can be pulled right up/off the board. Happened several times to my lights and other lights I've modded. I always try to add some sort of epoxy, like JB Weld, to the backside for support. C_K, Ceral_Killer, laid out a couple driver designs with these switches and I've used them many times in various unintended lights.

This switch design, I believe is the one biggest weakness of most of the Amutorch designs, though I don't think I've ever had or seen a switch problem on a Amutorch yet. I try to avoid lights using them but seems unavoidable, specially when they want to save as much vertical space as possible in compact lights. Mechanically, this switch is a poor design for this kind of use, directly effected by applied finger pressure. Add to that, ramping and lots of clicks, etc., in our modern UI's... 

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Dang, that's look'n pretty good! Ok, guess you find this stuff easy smile. What package are you using? DipTrace? Was hoping to get a chance to learn DipTrace. because TA said it was pretty easy.

I can give you exact dims, least the best I can. I have the E3 in pieces still. I'll check, but think the E3S uses the identical driver.

 

Wow though! Would love Anduril in these lights, plus with my epoxy fix on the switch.

Agro
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Tom E wrote:

Iv’e bought a few variants of these switches before, believe from Mouser, DigiKey or Arrow.


Of course a good option is simply transfer the stock driver switch.


I’ve done several mods with these switches – yes, position is critical and also the size of the plunger varies, and the placement of the feet/contact points vary. For the feet/contact, usually they are close enough but sometimes they hang off a bit, needing some solder bridging. Also these type of switches all have a common weakness – the force applied to the switch can weaken the front solder, pushing the switch or tilting it backwards. The solder mask can be pulled right up/off the board. Happened several times to my lights and other lights I’ve modded. I always try to add some sort of epoxy, like JB Weld, to the backside for support. C_K, Ceral_Killer, laid out a couple driver designs with these switches and I’ve used them many times in various unintended lights.


This switch design, I believe is the one biggest weakness of most of the Amutorch designs, though I don’t think I’ve ever had or seen a switch problem on a Amutorch yet. I try to avoid lights using them but seems unavoidable, specially when they want to save as much vertical space as possible in compact lights. Mechanically, this switch is a poor design for this kind of use, directly effected by applied finger pressure. Add to that, ramping and lots of clicks, etc., in our modern UI’s… 


There are similar switches that have a ledge in the front that goes well below the solder pads – meant to transfer push force to the PCB side.
I wonder why I haven’t seen this stuff in a flashlight yet…
SVARO
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Hi Lexel,

If it is always possible, i need a buck driver for an 6 volts XHP70.2 with an input of 2× 26650 5.5A cells (8.4v), i hope for max 8A, the diameter max is 32mm is for a Maglite.

Let me know

Thank

Artiet59
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Lexel wrote:
Zeratull wrote:
Hi! Sorry I am not expert in MOD but I would like to know what do you expect with this Driver in the Astrolux MF02? I am going to buy a MF02. Thanks.

This driver has the awesome Firmware Narsil

Battery carrier needs 2 traces cut and one bridge soldered to go to 4S/1P
Driver will be same size as MF02, so basically solder wires from one driver to the other


Lexel,

Is this mf02s driver available as it is listed in the OP? I just got mf02s and shaved the dome and love the light, but hate the UI. I love Narsil though. I haven’t done any mods yet except de dome, but this sounds potential for me. Based on what you said above, beside the mod to the carrier, is there any other suggestions you have for installing this?

Also. Could you give me total price for shipment to USA?

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SVARO wrote:
Hi Lexel,

If it is always possible, i need a buck driver for an 6 volts XHP70.2 with an input of 2× 26650 5.5A cells (8.4v), i hope for max 8A, the diameter max is 32mm is for a Maglite.

Let me know

Thank


With or without e-switch? Hopefully Level can hook you up, but if not you might check out the FX-30 in Convoy’s store. It’s a 30mm 6-8.4 volt buck driver good for 5 amps.
SVARO
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gchart wrote:
SVARO wrote:
Hi Lexel,

If it is always possible, i need a buck driver for an 6 volts XHP70.2 with an input of 2× 26650 5.5A cells (8.4v), i hope for max 8A, the diameter max is 32mm is for a Maglite.

Let me know

Thank


With or without e-switch? Hopefully Level can hook you up, but if not you might check out the FX-30 in Convoy’s store. It’s a 30mm 6-8.4 volt buck driver good for 5 amps.

Thanks for the alternative proposal, but I know these drivers and need more current, and I’m wondering if 2S liion is enough for 8A, I think 3S liion is needed.
Sorry for my lack of knowledge in electronics.

This sales thread is ended ?

Where to find a high current driver that I can modify with adding a heatsink with only 3 or 4 modes (moon/very low, low, medium, very very high) useful for everyday and at a good price ?

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~50+ Watts useful for every day in a maglite?

With 2S you can direct drive an XHP70.2 (even above 8A) with a cheap driver but it wont be efficient and it wont be suitable in a maglite body.

A driver like you are asking from Lexel he can surely make but it would probably be 20 Euro or more and you are still left having to use inferior maglite body for luxury driver.

SVARO
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contactcr wrote:
~50+ Watts useful for every day in a maglite?

With 2S you can direct drive an XHP70.2 (even above 8A) with a cheap driver but it wont be efficient and it wont be suitable in a maglite body.

A driver like you are asking from Lexel he can surely make but it would probably be 20 Euro or more and you are still left having to use inferior maglite body for luxury driver.

only 3 or 4 modes are useful for everyday (for me), maglites have a very robust, simple, slippery and well-crafted body, with cells wedged and protected from shocks it is a tool for my night work.

Then the pleasure of doing it yourself, with good parts made by flashaolic, it is why “direct drive” with “a cheap driver but it wont be efficient and it wont be suitable in a maglite body” this mod is not for me.

How to contact Lexel, i sent him a pm 2 days ago but i had no response ?

gchart
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It looks like he’s been off of BLF for 8 days or so. He’ll be back around sooner or later. Eventually we all need a little break (that and a chance to focus on life matters from time to time).

SVARO
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Ok merci

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SVARO wrote:

Where to find a high current driver that I can modify with adding a heatsink with only 3 or 4 modes (moon/very low, low, medium, very very high) useful for everyday and at a good price ?


For the money and time to modify a Maglite, have you looked at a Sofirn SP70? I use it nightly at my work. About $55. Has smooth ramping that I like and the potential to get very bright. If you switch to discreet brightness levels, I believe I got the spacing just right.

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JasonWW
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Someone posted that Lexel might be having some health issues. Maybe in hospital. So lets wish him well and expect he may not log on for a while.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Artiet59
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Best wishes Lexel, get well soon !

SVARO
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JasonWW wrote:
SVARO wrote:

Where to find a high current driver that I can modify with adding a heatsink with only 3 or 4 modes (moon/very low, low, medium, very very high) useful for everyday and at a good price ?


For the money and time to modify a Maglite, have you looked at a Sofirn SP70? I use it nightly at my work. About $55. Has smooth ramping that I like and the potential to get very bright. If you switch to discreet brightness levels, I believe I got the spacing just right.

Diy pleasure vs capitalism=destruction of our planet for money

I have all the necessary parts and many other since a long time and it is an upgrade from an XML on a big H22A heatsink, i ‘ve the emitter and i just need a good driver, my maglite can fall 100 times and more without consequence like no other, don’t hang on to the clothes.

That said I have a dozen other flashlights and I don’t like these big ones, I really like this mythical torch of my 20 years which did not illuminate anything and which weighed 1 ton with its large D bat, that’s why thanks to the CPF I was able to revive this myth of disappointment and frustration … c’est une putain de revanche !

A thought for Lexel

JasonWW
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SVARO wrote:

I have all the necessary parts and many other since a long time and it is an upgrade from an XML on a big H22A heatsink, i ‘ve the emitter and i just need a good driver, my maglite can fall 100 times and more without consequence like no other, don’t hang on to the clothes.

That said I have a dozen other flashlights and I don’t like these big ones, I really like this mythical torch of my 20 years which did not illuminate anything and which weighed 1 ton with its large D bat, that’s why thanks to the CPF I was able to revive this myth of disappointment and frustration … c’est une putain de revanche !

A thought for Lexel


Cool. I’m a long time user of the 2 D cell Maglight also. First with NiCd cells and 2v bulb. Practical, even though bulbs need replacement every few months. Then came NiMH. More time between charges. Then came the Maglight led bulb. Oh wow, much longer run time! Life was sweet. Then I said, let me try that new Convoy L6 with Liion. I never go back to Maglight. Lol. Do all kinds of mods to it. Then help Sofirn make a factory version of modded L6 for cheap that anyone can buy. I’m pretty happy. Big Smile

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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